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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 216

post #6451 of 9677
I am likely about to order a FV15HP with the H600PEQ3 and would like to know what the amp's input sensitivity is so I know which minidsp to get for it. MiniDSP 2x4 RevA (0.9Vrms), MiniDSP 2x4 RevB(2Vrms), or miniDSP Balanced 2x4(I don't think I want to deal with the RCA -> XLR or phoenix switch though). Apparently the A/B can be toggled with a jumper but I'd still like to know the right one.

Long term I will be looking to get another FV15HP in a year or so, but in the short term I will be using it with a much lesser 12ish year old velodyne VA1512 which appears to be getting to about 27 Hz at good output +/- 3db.

Thanks for your time
post #6452 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by errivera View Post

If there are any standards at all, they are to make the sound faithful (flat?) to the original. After that, you can manipulate the results any way you want. That is why you, personally, aim to have your subs match a 'reference curve.' That way we know what we can reasonably expect. Yes?

I make subs, so my job is easier. All I do is make sure the woofer output is linear to the input signal. And I leave the rest to the best point tool. But even that, I am not so adamant about which "flat" response should be used as reference and that is why I put in multiple extension and damping factor settings. Therefore I expressed my personal opinion that flat frequency response is the trailing indicator, not leading indicator, just like the subtle difference between correlation and causation that a statistical study cannot differentiate. But for engineers and scientist, the correlation and causation are two different things.
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post #6453 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I make subs, so my job is easier. All I do is make sure the woofer output is linear to the input signal. And I leave the rest to the best point tool. But even that, I am not so adamant about which "flat" response should be used as reference and that is why I put in multiple extension and damping factor settings. Therefore I expressed my personal opinion that flat frequency response is the trailing indicator, not leading indicator, just like the subtle difference between correlation and causation that a statistical study cannot differentiate. But for engineers and scientist, the correlation and causation are two different things.

Exactly! you just made my point. By designing your subs to be true to the input signal you're making them 'flat.' That's one of the reasons all your subs have similar output frequency response plots. Whatever you do afterwards to change the damping or extension is after-the-fact. You have to start with some sort of target... every engineer has to start with the end in sight.

By-the-way, any update or additional information on the F25 subs?
post #6454 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstew100 View Post

I am likely about to order a FV15HP with the H600PEQ3 and would like to know what the amp's input sensitivity is so I know which minidsp to get for it. MiniDSP 2x4 RevA (0.9Vrms), MiniDSP 2x4 RevB(2Vrms), or miniDSP Balanced 2x4(I don't think I want to deal with the RCA -> XLR or phoenix switch though). Apparently the A/B can be toggled with a jumper but I'd still like to know the right one.

Long term I will be looking to get another FV15HP in a year or so, but in the short term I will be using it with a much lesser 12ish year old velodyne VA1512 which appears to be getting to about 27 Hz at good output +/- 3db.

Thanks for your time

Sensitivity is 0.3VRMS. If you can use RCA, using Y cable to plug in both channels increases the sensitivity to 0.15VRMS.
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post #6455 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

Sensitivity is 0.3VRMS. If you can use RCA, using Y cable to plug in both channels increases the sensitivity to 0.15VRMS.

I think I'm asking the wrong question because I don't really understand all the input gain stuff very well. The basic question I'm asking is which minidsp is right for the FV15HP? Maybe what I mean to ask is how many volts are needed to drive the amp to full power?

Isn't consumer audio gear normally .9Vrms and pro audio 2.0Vrms? I will be using RCA
post #6456 of 9677
An update on the F25 and HX800 amp would be good.

I have two F25 enclosures waiting on amps and drivers since February.

Dave.
post #6457 of 9677
Could someone please tell me what screws are used for mounting the driver. I seem to have misplaced one. Thanks
post #6458 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by errivera View Post

Not the scope of this forum but I have had some recording and mixing experience. If you doubt my comments check into any major recording studio's setup.

http://www.telarc.com/About/
http://www.chesky.com/info.html
http://www.emimusic.com/about/

Just three off the top of my head. Common thread... 'faithfulness to the sound.' If you're really interested, do a search and check into what kind of reproduction systems recording companies use. I'm not into tit-for-tat.

I have no problem with people stating their opinions and believe they have a right to. But,when opinions are stated as facts credibility can become an issue. So, when someone speaks of what most recording engineers' motivation and goals are when doing the final mix and what they are not concerned with,I would wonder how many years did that person spend in the recording studio and in what capacity? How many recording engineers does he know or worked with? What recording sessions was he involved with(what albums)? How many studios has he worked in? Which ones? I would hope that in order to speak for "most" recording engineers more than reading and listening was involved. So, I'm not disagreeing with you,just wondering how you know that to be true? If you've spent decades working with numerous engineers in countless studios on many,many projects then I'm a believer. On the other hand....... I'm no expert,but it sounds to me like recording engineers don't agree on a hell of a lot!(not even volume level)

Btw; a recording studio's mission statement and equipment don't ensure that the engineer's participation won't affect the sound. A lot of great sounding recordings(studio and live) were done on less than amazing equipment and the opposite is also true. Why(seriously),I don't know??
post #6459 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post

Agreed, but flat in-room response is typically a result of placement, treatments and/or EQ (usually a combination thereof). At low frequencies, you're hearing less of the sub and more of the room. So if there is a hump in the bass, then that's typically due to the room. The reason I asked about accuracy was because I didn't see how switching to a different sub would make that hump go away and yield more "accurate" bass.

On a separate note, have you seen what x-curves look like below 63Hz?


Not following you somehow. If it is flat in the room it will sound like what was mixed. That's what I said, in response to what seemed to be a suggestion from you that if it's flat you don't know if you're hearing what the mixers heard. Obviously if it's flat in an anechoic chamber and plus or minus 10 dB in room, it's not flat for purposes of the discussion. I thought that went without saying. Since the context was eqing to reach a flat response.
post #6460 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHAz View Post

Not following you somehow....Since the context was eqing to reach a flat response.

If you go back to my original comment, you'll see that the context was accurate bass from a sub, not EQing to reach a flat response.

A poster mentioned listening to a VTF-15 and F12SE, and preferring the Hsu to the Rythmik, to which another poster replied "Some never appreciate truly accurate bass. I suspect they miss the typical mid-bass bloat of lesser subs." The implication being that the F12SE produced truly accurate bass, and preference for a 'lesser' sub like the VTF-15 could only be a result of not appreciating said accurate bass.

So I asked what it [the bass that the F12SE produces] was 'truly accurate' to. You replied that it was accurate to "what the mixers/producers created", while someone else replied that it was accurate to "reproduction of source material". I didn't see how switching from a Hsu sub to a Rythmik sub could accomplish such accuracy, hence my comment about other factors (EQ, room) having greater influence.
post #6461 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post


So I asked what it [the bass that the F12SE produces] was 'truly accurate' to. You replied that it was accurate to "what the mixers/producers created", while someone else replied that it was accurate to "reproduction of source material". I didn't see how switching from a Hsu sub to a Rythmik sub could accomplish such accuracy, hence my comment about other factors (EQ, room) having greater influence.

Sanjay, that is why I made comment that the answer is our subs make statistically more coherent sound(or lack of a better word because some also use coherent to mean linear phase). "Coherent" here means the both the phase and frequency response is consistent over time, not changing time over time. Our brain analyzes sound more than just by frequency response. If you blind-fold a person, and lead him to a room, he can do a gross guess of the dimension of the room and the type of floor (such as carpet vs tiles vs hardwood) if he is properly trained. That is right, it is a learning process. Our brain keeps comparing what we hear now to what we have heard before. It is like searching through a huge database and some do it better than others. The word "accurate" is used because it triggers our brain to return a "hit" in the database more frequently. If the sound cannot maintain correct relative amplitude and phase with respect between the original sound and echo, our brain will have hard time doing estimate. The same thing applies to other quality of sound. Some recognized that we never heard bloated sound in real life, so they are particularly turn off by boomy sound. It will not click them as real sound and time domain response is related to both phase response and frequency response. So why the frequency/phase response would change over time? It is because: 1) the voice coil changes over time and the frequency response change with it, and 2) the components used in speakers possess memory effect with some worse than others. And servo addresses both issues. For the first point, it was demonstrated in objective frequency sweep and all nonservo subs will have a progressively large dip at a frequency point between 60hz and 100hz as we move the SPL higher. And worse of all, it is a memory effect meaning that change in frequenc/phase response will stay for a short while until the temperature drops back. And as for point 2), we all know spider and surround has hysteresis. Do a google search on the subject. There has been effort in the past to get rid of spiders altogether. But it wasn't successful. Our servo also addresses that. So in short, we completely solve the memory effect introduced by the changing voice coil resistance, and reduce the memory effect from speaker components by a factor of 3x or more. That is the type of sound our customers hear. You can also conclude that the same mechanism offering these improvements also ensures we have a much better controlled unit-to-unit variation in terms of sound quality and frequency/phase response. That is another plus for quality control. Customers notice it, but they don't know the reason. The reason is the servo mechanism reduces the variation arised from T/S parameter value change. This reduction does not depend on if it is a short term effect (as in distortion), or permanent effect (as in unit to unit variation). Last point, our subs are much easy sells to veteran audiophiles than younger listeners. That is a harsh reality and I am well aware of that. What is why I replied to HD330 about what to listen to. It is a learning process. But he misunderstood the intention.
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post #6462 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwarny View Post

Could someone please tell me what screws are used for mounting the driver. I seem to have misplaced one. Thanks

Kyle, #8 for drivers and #6 for amps.
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post #6463 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstew100 View Post

I think I'm asking the wrong question because I don't really understand all the input gain stuff very well. The basic question I'm asking is which minidsp is right for the FV15HP? Maybe what I mean to ask is how many volts are needed to drive the amp to full power?

Isn't consumer audio gear normally .9Vrms and pro audio 2.0Vrms? I will be using RCA

In terms of sensitivity, we design the gear to be more sensitive than 0.9Vrms. All designs need some margin. So it takes only 0.3VRMS input to drive the sub to full power.
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post #6464 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topend View Post

An update on the F25 and HX800 amp would be good.

I have two F25 enclosures waiting on amps and drivers since February.

Dave.

They are in the pipeline. We need to get the A370/H600XLR2/3 out in June and HX800 will follow after that.
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post #6465 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post


They are in the pipeline. We need to get the A370/H600XLR2/3 out in June and HX800 will follow after that.

Thanks,
Dave.
post #6466 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

That is the type of sound our customers hear.

And that is the reason I became a customer: I've always liked the type of sound that servo subs deliver. A couple of my friends find that level of etched, detailed bass a little unnatural (whatever that means). But it remains my personal preference, hence my picking up a couple of your subs. However, that's a very different reason than believing that the subs sound "truly accurate" to what is heard in a recording studio or movie mixing stage. When you demo 'U-571', you don't know what it sounded like at the mixing stage, let alone what real WWII depth charges sound like. For all you know, you might be hearing more detial from the soundtrack than was heard from the commercial subs on the mixing stage. Which is why I'm suspicious of these notions of accuracy, especially when there are more tangible reasons to buy a Rythmik sub (like the improvements you described).
post #6467 of 9677
A good test to hear the SQ of a sub in my experience is to play some music and switch off the main speakers leaving only the sub playing the sound.

When I do this with my Rythmik I hear LF music. When I did this with my previous subs the sound I heard was more like a rumble.

My previous subs were a cheap 12" Sony followed by an expensive Whatmough. I always thought this rumble type of sound was what I should hear from a sub until I got the Rythmik.

This is the reason I describe the Rythmik as musical and accurate.

Dave.
post #6468 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topend View Post

A good test to hear the SQ of a sub in my experience is to play some music and switch off the main speakers leaving only the sub playing the sound.

When I do this with my Rythmik I hear LF music. When I did this with my previous subs the sound I heard was more like a rumble.

My previous subs were a cheap 12" Sony followed by an expensive Whatmough. I always thought this rumble type of sound was what I should hear from a sub until I got the Rythmik.

This is the reason I describe the Rythmik as musical and accurate.

Dave.

I'm still trying to figure out what the rumbling is that I hear with other subs. The rythmik may still have it but other subs exaggerate whatever it is pretty clearly.
post #6469 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwarny View Post

I'm still trying to figure out what the rumbling is that I hear with other subs. The rythmik may still have it but other subs exaggerate whatever it is pretty clearly.

My explanation is that the clear and coherent reproduction of the original source and its echos is the reason. The microphones at the recording site will pick up the direct sound from the instrument (let us call that source) and its echos from near-by objects. If that object where the echo is reflected from is 4 ft away from the instrument plus if the echo signal is an inverse (meaning it has negative magnitude), the lowest frequency being affected has a half wavelength (180 degrees shift) of 4 ft. So the frequency is 1000/(2*4)=120hz. The effect is best demonstrated as an impulse response. In this case, we will see the source signal at time 0 (which looks like a normal impulse waveform), and then at 4/1000 sec (or 4ms) later, there is another blip with negative shape (which is similar in shape to the source, except it is going to the negative amplitude direction) and with smaller amplitude. When you do FFT (fast Fourier transformation), we get the frequency response of the composite signals. So you can see for frequency response, both source and echos contributes to it. But our brain does not treat them that way. In addition, if the echo is further delayed (because it is from farther objects), the affected frequency goes lower.

In short what the sub plays is the low frequency source plus its multiple echos. If the sub is "coherent" over time, our brain can still recognize the music rhythm of the source out of complex composite sound. At the same time, this complex composite sound makes it sound like the instruments is boxed-in in a vaguely large box (the echos define the box). In a less coherent sub, the bad distortion (arisen from memory effect) makes the source and echos hard to be individually recognized and therefore just seems to be some sort of rumble in the background. But in spectral analysis, the two have very similar. Crucial information is lost in analysis.

As we switch the extension filter setting on our plate amps, on good recording, the sound effect is the sound stage seems to become larger, deeper, and taller when we switch from 28hz to 14hz. In addition, as we do that, the sound lost its one note characteristic where some describes it as punchy. If some prefer to hear that type of sound, he should try 28hz/low damping and then boost signal around 80hz to 150hz.
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post #6470 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post

When you demo 'U-571', you don't know what it sounded like at the mixing stage, let alone what real WWII depth charges sound like.

But in the same track, we can also hear the gusty sea wind noise and the detailed sound of the waves hitting on the hulk of ship as the battleship charged forward and broke the waves. And then there was this splash sound when the barrels were dropped into the sea and the sound that one woud have heard from under-water from a dropped object. All of these are something we can experience in life. We can make judgement how detail and truthful the sound is. Yes, the sound of the depth charge itself is unknown to most of us, but almost everything else is what we can experience in real life. So percentage wise, we can conclude we heard more accurate sound, isn't it? U571 remains to be one of my favorate because the sound effects are very natural.
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post #6471 of 9677
Hi

Need some serious advise here. I have the following set up in basement of a end unit town home.
Bowers Wilkins CM9/CMC2
Bowers Wilkins DS3 for rears- wall mounted
Rythmik F15
Marantz Sr6006 ( Audessey MultiXT)
Room Dimensions : 21 ft * 13 ft * 9ft

My screen is against the common wall to the neighbour and the front speakers are a bit over 1 ft from this wall. Sub is 5-6 ft away from this common wall.

I tried different things to calibrate my system many times using Audessey and RS SPL meter.

I normally listen to about -20 db to -30db for music and movies. I iincreased the channel level on center channel by 3-4db.

I was getting complaints from the neighbor when I was using an 8 inch ported subwoofer from a different company and then I replaced it with Rythmik sealed sub ( placed it on top of subdude).
when I first got my Rythmik I was not happy as it did not have the "slam" that the thread is currently discussing. But after about 2-3 weeks of use I am loving it big time.

Neighbors complaints went away and I was a happy camper. But this friday evening I was watching "Battle - Los Angeles" at -30db and got a knock on the door. when I decreased the volume to -40db the lady still complained that she was hearing DRUMS. I decreased the volume to about -53db and eventually shut off the Rythmik completely.

I just want to know if this neighbor is overly reacting or my system is messed up. I dont want to annoy my neighbors but would like to enjoy my system too as I am going to be in this town home for the next 5 or 6 years.

I tried them if there are any times they can give me an exception etc.. but looks like the neighbor is very unfreindly. I asked her to call me when she thinks it too loud and I can turn it down but she refused to "baby sit" me

Just wondering what my options are here? How do I know if it might be too loud on the otherside. I want to go in to their place to hear it for myself but I think the neighbor is so hostile that she wont let me do that.

Are there any cheaper options I can try to prevent the LFE going into their basement?
post #6472 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsmt2000 View Post

Are there any cheaper options I can try to prevent the LFE going into their basement?

The low frequency rumble (say below 20hz) is most likely air-borne and the only way get around that is turn on rumble filter. But frequency band above 20hz, up to 40hz is more like the resonance of your house structure. You want to do a sweep when your neighbors are away and find out what frequency causes your walls to resonate the most and have the PEQ to trim down that frequency specifically.
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post #6473 of 9677
Hey Brian/Enrico

I was hoping for an update on the DS1510 driver availability as I'm itching to pull the trigger on an F15HP. Thanks
post #6474 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl007 View Post

Hey Brian/Enrico

I was hoping for an update on the DS1510 driver availability as I'm itching to pull the trigger on an F15HP. Thanks

I got an e-mail from Enrico today and he said two weeks on that driver.
post #6475 of 9677
Strange that there is a shortage. I received my DS1510 and H600PEQ3 for a F15HP clone that I'm building on 5/14.
post #6476 of 9677
After a week of no audio, (My 12 year old son "won" an 8 day, 7 nights stay at the hospital, were back home how and he is now ok ). I turned on the stereo and with a Rythmik 15 inch sealed subwoofer by my side, its going to be PERCUSSION NIGHT, I played Scheffield's Drum and Test Track, Brent Luis Drum Sex, Babatunde Olatunji and finished of the night with Dire Straights, Money for Nothing. after that I said to myself. I LOVE MY SUB !!!
post #6477 of 9677
We have very limited supply and we release them to those who need the driver immediately. If you got to have it by a deadline, let me know.
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post #6478 of 9677
Hi Brian. I have a few quick questions about the subtuner.

Here are my selections for my NHT Absolute Tower mains, TwoC Center, and FV15HP with 2 ports.

Step1: sealed
Step2: floor standing
Step3: 5.25 Number:3
Step4: yes
Step4.1: yes
Step5: 90hz (My right main has a dip at 80hz which must be room interaction issues and 90 seems to give me slightly better bass.)
Step6: -1
Step6.1: 12
Step6.2: HT input
Step7: LFE
Step8: No
Step8.1: 0

My questions:
  1. Steps 1-3 refer to Left and Right only correct? Obviously my center is not floor standing and has a different sized mid-range driver.
  2. Due to my room layout my speakers cannot be ideally positioned. So for step 6 what number should I use? These are my front speaker and sub distances from main listening position:

    Front Left = 13ft
    Center = 11ft
    Front Right = 12ft
    Sub = 11.5ft

  3. I have a marantz 6006 avr. Is the delay time just the distance of the speakers? If so given the measured distances above what number should I use?
Thanks - Brian.
post #6479 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

So percentage wise, we can conclude we heard more accurate sound, isn't it?

'Accurate' in this case is based on your aural memory of those sounds (gusty sea wind, waves hitting hull of ship, splash of barrels dropped into water). But that is a very personal view of 'accurate', since we each have our own ideas of what those sounds should be like, based on our own personal memories. This is why I refer to it as preference. A more objective idea of 'accurate' is to compare the bass you're hearing to the bass that was heard on the mixing stage, since this doesn't rely on each person's aural memory as a reference.

Based on my experience with your subs, and listening to the same material on mixing stages, you're hearing more low frequency details at home compared to the commercial subwoofers in mixing stages (not to mention reproducing lower frequencies). Likewise, I routinely hear phantom imaging between my surrounds that simply isn't possible with the large arrays of surround speakers in commercial venues. So if you're hearing details that the film makers did not intended you to hear, is that still considered 'accurate'? That's not how I would use the word, but at the same time I'm not willing to give up those details in order to pursue some notion of 'accuracy'.
post #6480 of 9677
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdurani View Post

'Accurate' in this case is based on your aural memory of those sounds (gusty sea wind, waves hitting hull of ship, splash of barrels dropped into water). But that is a very personal view of 'accurate', since we each have our own ideas of what those sounds should be like, based on our own personal memories. This is why I refer to it as preference. A more objective idea of 'accurate' is to compare the bass you're hearing to the bass that was heard on the mixing stage, since this doesn't rely on each person's aural memory as a reference.

Based on my experience with your subs, and listening to the same material on mixing stages, you're hearing more low frequency details at home compared to the commercial subwoofers in mixing stages (not to mention reproducing lower frequencies). Likewise, I routinely hear phantom imaging between my surrounds that simply isn't possible with the large arrays of surround speakers in commercial venues. So if you're hearing details that the film makers did not intended you to hear, is that still considered 'accurate'? That's not how I would use the word, but at the same time I'm not willing to give up those details in order to pursue some notion of 'accuracy'.

OCD much.
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