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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 224

post #6691 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain- View Post

Good choice. BJC subwoofer cable would be what he requires as they are better screened and have better connectors than monoprice do.
I use BJC LC-1 subwoofer cable between my Denon 3310 and F12SE. No hum or noise of any type in sub. Eerily quiet. cool.gif
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/subwoofer/index.htm

I made my own cables using BJC suggested Belden 1505F cable that I ordered "raw" from them. I terminated the cable myself with solder connectors from monoprice. Works like a charm and no hum. I have ordered a variety of cables from both BJC and monoprice and feel that I get good products and customer service from both.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #6692 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by legend53 View Post

Any future plans to offer the F15HP in the Matte Black finish?

It is already available. I had a customer picked up two black matte F15HP two weeks ago. The price is same as black oak finish. The only sub we don't have black matte at this moment is FV15/FV15HP. I am concern that black matte has a more uniform texture and may show dirt spot easily. On the other hand, black oak has a busier texture pattern and dirt spot does not show as easily.
post #6693 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

It is already available. I had a customer picked up two black matte F15HP two weeks ago. The price is same as black oak finish. The only sub we don't have black matte at this moment is FV15/FV15HP. I am concern that black matte has a more uniform texture and may show dirt spot easily. On the other hand, black oak has a busier texture pattern and dirt spot does not show as easily.

Hi Brian,

I think you are obsessing over the dirt a bit too much - my matte black ones look MUCH cleaner than the SEs, the shiny SE finish is a dust magnet! smile.gif

So do you only expect SE owners to dust their subs? eek.giftongue.gif

wink.gifbiggrin.gif
post #6694 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis.ie View Post

....... the shiny SE finish is a dust magnet! smile.gif
...........
Myth. wink.gif
post #6695 of 9846
I'd settle for dust, right now it's ash...
post #6696 of 9846
Trying to decide between F15 or F15HP. Room size is 3300 cu.ft. I have Asend Acoustic Sierra 1's for LCR and Denon 2112 AVR. My normal listening levels are -14 to -20 , although I might possibly go as loud as -10 for short periods of time when listening to music. I realize there are advantages to having multiple subwoofers , but I can afford only 1 at this time. Should I purchase 1 F15 and maybe add another one later, or would 1 F15HP be enough to satisfy my requirments?
post #6697 of 9846
Additional subs do increase output slightly, but the main reason for a second (third, whatever) sub is to reduce the effect of room modes and thus even out the bass response.

That's a fair-sized room but I suspect one F15 would fill it; most here will proably say go for the HP so you don't wonder if you should have gone larger. Personally, I'd probably get the F15 and keep saving for a second...
post #6698 of 9846
Hi Brian

One sub and two amplifiers . I have the A370PEQ amp Is it safe to connect one amp (Tube) via speaker Level inputs and the second amp (solid state) via RCA to the Left and Right inputs ? What happens if BOTH amplifiers are turned ON ?
post #6699 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by legend53 View Post

Trying to decide between F15 or F15HP. Room size is 3300 cu.ft. I have Asend Acoustic Sierra 1's for LCR and Denon 2112 AVR. My normal listening levels are -14 to -20 , although I might possibly go as loud as -10 for short periods of time when listening to music. I realize there are advantages to having multiple subwoofers , but I can afford only 1 at this time. Should I purchase 1 F15 and maybe add another one later, or would 1 F15HP be enough to satisfy my requirments?

I had you problem as well. I first looked at the F15 and F15HP. But after watching the shoot out I choose the FV15. It's larger than the F15 for sure but it really puts out a lot of bass. The FV15 is excellent with movies and music.

Jeff
post #6700 of 9846
A couple of questions for Rythmik owners.

I'm in the "choosing gear" stages of a ht + play room build. I was recently auditioning the aperion verus grand speakers and I had brought my wife along. During the audition we determined that she pretty much preferred movies with the subwoofer turned off completely. I obviously scrambled to try to figure out how I could avoid having to turn off the subwoofer for 75% of the movies I watch. After some research I decided that maybe the best way to accomplish this would be a pair of sealed rythmik subs. All the things I've read about these subs make me think that they would go a long way towards removing any booming or rumbling and my wife might not object to having them turned on at full volume. Does this seem reasonable?

The second question is whether dual f12 or dual e15 would be better for a room which is just under 5,000 ft^3, given that I listen at pretty moderate volumes, probably -10 at the loudest. I saw a post someplace with estimates of the relative db differences between all the various rythmik models, I was going to try to use that to inform my decision making but I can't for the life of me find that post anymore.

Thanks in advance.
post #6701 of 9846
menglish6---You can find the list of the relative output of all the Rythmik subs on the website's main products page.
post #6702 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

menglish6---You can find the list of the relative output of all the Rythmik subs on the website's main products page.

here it is

•F12: 0db (baseline)
•F15: +2db D15: +2db
•FV12: +3db
•E15HP: + 3.5db
•F15HP: +4db
•FV15: +7db
•FV15HP: +9db
•F25: +7db
post #6703 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by menglish6 View Post

A couple of questions for Rythmik owners.
I'm in the "choosing gear" stages of a ht + play room build. I was recently auditioning the aperion verus grand speakers and I had brought my wife along. During the audition we determined that she pretty much preferred movies with the subwoofer turned off completely. I obviously scrambled to try to figure out how I could avoid having to turn off the subwoofer for 75% of the movies I watch. After some research I decided that maybe the best way to accomplish this would be a pair of sealed rythmik subs. All the things I've read about these subs make me think that they would go a long way towards removing any booming or rumbling and my wife might not object to having them turned on at full volume. Does this seem reasonable?
The second question is whether dual f12 or dual e15 would be better for a room which is just under 5,000 ft^3, given that I listen at pretty moderate volumes, probably -10 at the loudest. I saw a post someplace with estimates of the relative db differences between all the various rythmik models, I was going to try to use that to inform my decision making but I can't for the life of me find that post anymore.
Thanks in advance.

I think your thought process is spot on. I have two F15HPs in 5000 cu ft and they are perfect. They balance with my mains so well you'd be excused for not realizing there are subwoofers there - especially at lower volumes. But if you turn them off you immediately notice the missing low end. If played loud with an LFE heavy movie, however, you will feel them. They dig plenty deep when asked to. So not sure how that will play with your wife. You could always keep them a tad lower.

Never heard a sub that sounded so uniform with mains though. If your wife objects to a sub just because she can pick it out due to boomy or rumbly sounds, you won't get that with Rythmik.
post #6704 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

Hi Brian
One sub and two amplifiers . I have the A370PEQ amp Is it safe to connect one amp (Tube) via speaker Level inputs and the second amp (solid state) via RCA to the Left and Right inputs ? What happens if BOTH amplifiers are turned ON ?

You can use both speaker level inputs and RCA line inputs for A370PEQ. The signals are summed together and there is no gain change when you use both signals. Same thing goes to all PEQ2./PEQ3 models. However, earlier models such as A370SE (without PEQ) or A300 are different and are not recommended to do so. It is not that it is not safe to do so, instead it is the gain from speaker level inputs on those models will change depends on if RCA line ins are plugged in or not.

The only exception I can think of is A370PEQ specifically shipped for Hawthorne OB subs. Those have the input stage modified in order to increase gain to match the efficiency of their full range drivers. Those suffer the same problem that speaker level inputs sensitivity depends on whether RCA line ins are plugged in or not.
Edited by Rythmik - 7/11/12 at 10:12am
post #6705 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstew100 View Post

That's what I meant when I said it just sounds sweet :-)
Rythmik Brian,
Question though, clearly my FV15HP is a big step up from my previous sub so I am rightfully blown away. I understand it may be a little political and such so I won't name names but... Considering only ID subs that cost more than the FV15HP and/or F15HP without a servo design (hmmm, wonder which few I have in mind here), can they keep up in the accuracy department or are they just more blunt LOUD and DEEP??? No worries if you don't want to comment, I understand, but I have not heard the others and being very pleased with this, I do wonder. Comments from all are welcome of course, hopefully some of you all have heard these and the others.

I think you can get better idea from customer feedback.The difference is how you describe the sound. For instance, you have said it almost sound like the artists are in there is the room and you can almost hear the finger moving on the strings. That is typical with the feedback from our customers -- realism. In addition, you can pin-point the strength, instead of saying "it just sounds good or better". We have customers enjoying reading this thread more than posting. And some of them do send me emails or PM and tell me how much they like our subs. I would not say all other more expensive subs are just LOUD and DEEP, but only few come close to the clarity of our subs.
post #6706 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

It is already available. I had a customer picked up two black matte F15HP two weeks ago. The price is same as black oak finish. The only sub we don't have black matte at this moment is FV15/FV15HP. I am concern that black matte has a more uniform texture and may show dirt spot easily. On the other hand, black oak has a busier texture pattern and dirt spot does not show as easily.
smile.gif Looks lovely to me in a very dark room.
post #6707 of 9846
My custom Rythmiks are matte black and they just vanish into the void with the lights off, my mains and center are the black oak finish and they are more reflective (especially right after being polished). If my sanding/painting skills were up to par I would go at my LCR speakers and convert them to matte.

For optimal immersion speakers should be heard and not seen when the lights go out.

Jason
post #6708 of 9846
I did order new FV15 enclosures in black matte finish from my supplier. They won't arrive here for another 3 months though.
post #6709 of 9846
Obviously my previous comment only truly matters if your subs are within your field of view while watching your display. I should have been more specific versus a blanket statement like that, sorry. wink.gif

Jason
post #6710 of 9846
Status Update

We extend the 10% multiple sub discount to single F12 black oak finish so that we can get more space for the new container arrival on July 23.

In the new container, we will have more F12 black matte, piano black finish, more F15/F15HP black matte/black oak, and more DS1510 drivers to fulfill a lot more HP subs. The factory also in the process of moving A370/H600 XLR2/3. The early air ship batch will arrive July 17 with the rest ocean freight to Austin before end of August. We also push forward HX800XLR3 production and hopefully we can get it done with 6 weeks.
post #6711 of 9846
If you'd only extend that 10% to the FV15HP, I'd make a new addition to the room biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif!
post #6712 of 9846
This post is directed to those of you who are owners, or have atleast heard, the F12 with the GR driver. Since discovering Rythmik in my search for a sub or two for my 2-channel music-only hi-fi, I have been doing what I imagine all of you did.....read, and think. Then read some more and think it all through again, trying to decide which Rythmik(s) to get. I went from bottom (12" driver and 370W amp) to top (15" and 600W), excluding the FV series. And even to the Rythmik driver and amp in the Salk enclosure. But last night I read a post somewhere from a DIY guy who said something to the effect "I am sold on the GR/Rythmik sound". It was only then that I realized I had not even considered the F12GR. I can guess that a lot of you chose the aluminum driver because your audio system does double duty for music and home theatre, but what's my excuse? Maybe because the aluminum looks hi-tech (the 1501, 1505, and 1510 look SO cool!) while the paper GR seems kinda pedestrian (no offense, Danny!). Or is it because I bought into the notion that sound output is the most important criteria for judging the desirability of a sub, rather than sound quality? It was SQ that attracted me to Rythmik in the first place, but, taking it for granted in a Rythmik sub, I had forgotten about it in my subsequent thinking. My need for a sub is predicated on the fact that my two sets of stereo speakers (one a mini-monitor with a 4 1/2"---ha!---"woofer" driven by a 25/25W stereo Class A SS amp---though they are about to be replaced by a two-way with a 6 1/2, the other the old Quad ESL's driven by a pair of 60w mono Class A OTL tube amps) need not just a subwoofer, but also a woofer (crossed over at 80hz). A woofer that can match their extreme transparency and ability to unravel the densely threaded musical fabric of the music I listen to (Baroque in Classical, with it's counterpoint between harpsichord and strings, and Bluegrass in Pop, with it's close-harmony vocals and acoustic instruments) in my sealed 10(H) X 13 X 19 room. Sure, I listen to AC/DC cranked sometimes, but 95% of the time it's acoustic music at moderate volume. Seeing as how the lowest note in a lot of acoustic music is that of the upright or electric bass playing the open E string at 42hz (though a grand piano goes deeper than that, at what level?), I'm not really in need of extreme output at super-low frequencies, except for the occasional pipe organ recording. So, to those who know about both the GR and aluminum Rythmik 12" drivers, what does each offer in contrast to the other in the reproduction of music? I would love to hear from Brian and Danny!
Edited by BDP24 - 7/15/12 at 3:25am
post #6713 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

This post is directed to those of you who are owners, or have atleast heard, the F12 with the GR driver. Since discovering Rythmik in my search for a sub or two for my 2-channel music-only hi-fi, I have been doing what I imagine all of you did.....read, and think. Then read some more and think it all through again, trying to decide which Rythmik(s) to get. I went from bottom (12" driver and 370W amp) to top (15" and 600W), excluding the FV series. And even to the Rythmik driver and amp in the Salk enclosure. But last night I read a post somewhere from a DIY guy who said something to the effect "I am sold on the GR/Rythmik sound". It was only then that I realized I had not even considered the F12GR. I can guess that a lot of you chose the aluminum driver because your audio system does double duty for music and home theatre, but what's my excuse? Maybe because the aluminum looks hi-tech (the 1501, 1505, and 1510 look SO cool!) while the paper GR seems kinda pedestrian (no offense, Danny!). Or is it because I bought into the notion that sound output is the most important criteria for judging the desirability of a sub, rather than sound quality? It was SQ that attracted me to Rythmik in the first place, but, taking it for granted in a Rythmik sub, I had forgotten about it in my subsequent thinking. My need for a sub is predicated on the fact that my two sets of stereo speakers (one a mini-monitor with a 4 1/2"---ha!---"woofer" driven by a 25/25W stereo Class A SS amp---though they are about to be replaced by a two-way with a 6 1/2, the other the old Quad ESL's driven by a pair of 60w mono Class A OTL tube amps) need not just a subwoofer, but also a woofer (crossed over at 80hz). A woofer that can match their extreme transparency and ability to unravel the densely threaded musical fabric of the music I listen to (Baroque in Classical, with it's counterpoint between harpsichord and strings, and Bluegrass in Pop, with it's close-harmony vocals and acoustic instruments) in my sealed 10(H) X 13 X 19 room. Sure, I listen to AC/DC cranked sometimes, but 95% of the time it's acoustic music at moderate volume. Seeing as how the lowest note in a lot of acoustic music is that of the upright or electric bass playing the open E string at 42hz (though a grand piano goes deeper than that, at what level?), I'm not really in need of extreme output at super-low frequencies, except for the occasional pipe organ recording. So, to those who know about both the GR and aluminum Rythmik 12" drivers, what does each offer in contrast to the other in the reproduction of music? I would love to hear from Brian and Danny!

You may get a better answer over on Danny’s forum at audiocircle.com. I don’t think Rythmik sales a lot of the F12G’s, there’s not a lot of talk about them on this forum. From what I’ve read the F12G is a little smoother if that’s possible and will cross a little higher than the F12. From what you’ve described I think either will work great. As to which would be the best for you there’s no way to know, the difference between the two is so small just pick one and don’t look back.
Larry
post #6714 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

Status Update
We extend the 10% multiple sub discount to single F12 black oak finish so that we can get more space for the new container arrival on July 23.
In the new container, we will have more F12 black matte, piano black finish, more F15/F15HP black matte/black oak, and more DS1510 drivers to fulfill a lot more HP subs. The factory also in the process of moving A370/H600 XLR2/3. The early air ship batch will arrive July 17 with the rest ocean freight to Austin before end of August. We also push forward HX800XLR3 production and hopefully we can get it done with 6 weeks.

How would the F12 pair with the FV12 in a home theatre? I know the FV12 is currently out of stock so I'm waiting for you to get more in order to add another to my theatre room but thought about taking advantage of the discount on the F12 (which I might use somewhere else once I replace it with another FV12). By the way, I've had my FV12 for about 17 months and love it. Even after moving to a new home with a much bigger theatre room, it has handled it great (one is never enough though biggrin.gif).
post #6715 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryU View Post

You may get a better answer over on Danny’s forum at audiocircle.com. I don’t think Rythmik sales a lot of the F12G’s, there’s not a lot of talk about them on this forum. From what I’ve read the F12G is a little smoother if that’s possible and will cross a little higher than the F12. From what you’ve described I think either will work great. As to which would be the best for you there’s no way to know, the difference between the two is so small just pick one and don’t look back.
Larry

Thanks Larry, I'll give it a try---Eric.

Great info to be had over there, Larry. And Danny himself responded, giving me something to consider.
Edited by BDP24 - 7/16/12 at 11:20am
post #6716 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by ms987 View Post

How would the F12 pair with the FV12 in a home theatre? I know the FV12 is currently out of stock so I'm waiting for you to get more in order to add another to my theatre room but thought about taking advantage of the discount on the F12 (which I might use somewhere else once I replace it with another FV12). By the way, I've had my FV12 for about 17 months and love it. Even after moving to a new home with a much bigger theatre room, it has handled it great (one is never enough though biggrin.gif).

I have read that it is difficult to integrate ported and non ported together well. I have also read some folks that got it done though. They had to use measuring tools and other gadgets to do it.

Rythmik Designer / owner Brian once said in another thread discussing using ported and sealed subs together...
Quote:
you dont want to do that because the phase difference between a sealed sub and a ported sub can be very different. For instance, a sealed sub at 20hz can have as little as 90 degrees phase shift (or group delay) while a ported sub with rumble filter turn on will have close to 270 degrees phase shift. If you can find the group delay of each sub, you know exactly the phase difference and can add rumble filter (which is HPF) to compensate. But that is a lot of research. If you don't have those plots, it will be a lot of trial and error.
post #6717 of 9846
^^^ I want to add if you turn on rumble filter on the sealed sub, then the phase difference between sealed and vented is less. I suspect that those who got good results mixing sealed with ported subs was because their sealed subs already have rumble filter built-in so that the phase response is not minimal one. On our F12/F15, we do have a dedicated rumble filter switch and one can use that for the same purpose. My original comment was based on the assumption that our sealed sub customers may not want to turn on rumble filter in order to get the best phase response (or time domain response).
post #6718 of 9846
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

This post is directed to those of you who are owners, or have atleast heard, the F12 with the GR driver. Since discovering Rythmik in my search for a sub or two for my 2-channel music-only hi-fi, I have been doing what I imagine all of you did.....read, and think. Then read some more and think it all through again, trying to decide which Rythmik(s) to get. I went from bottom (12" driver and 370W amp) to top (15" and 600W), excluding the FV series. And even to the Rythmik driver and amp in the Salk enclosure. But last night I read a post somewhere from a DIY guy who said something to the effect "I am sold on the GR/Rythmik sound". It was only then that I realized I had not even considered the F12GR. I can guess that a lot of you chose the aluminum driver because your audio system does double duty for music and home theatre, but what's my excuse? Maybe because the aluminum looks hi-tech (the 1501, 1505, and 1510 look SO cool!) while the paper GR seems kinda pedestrian (no offense, Danny!). Or is it because I bought into the notion that sound output is the most important criteria for judging the desirability of a sub, rather than sound quality? It was SQ that attracted me to Rythmik in the first place, but, taking it for granted in a Rythmik sub, I had forgotten about it in my subsequent thinking. My need for a sub is predicated on the fact that my two sets of stereo speakers (one a mini-monitor with a 4 1/2"---ha!---"woofer" driven by a 25/25W stereo Class A SS amp---though they are about to be replaced by a two-way with a 6 1/2, the other the old Quad ESL's driven by a pair of 60w mono Class A OTL tube amps) need not just a subwoofer, but also a woofer (crossed over at 80hz). A woofer that can match their extreme transparency and ability to unravel the densely threaded musical fabric of the music I listen to (Baroque in Classical, with it's counterpoint between harpsichord and strings, and Bluegrass in Pop, with it's close-harmony vocals and acoustic instruments) in my sealed 10(H) X 13 X 19 room. Sure, I listen to AC/DC cranked sometimes, but 95% of the time it's acoustic music at moderate volume. Seeing as how the lowest note in a lot of acoustic music is that of the upright or electric bass playing the open E string at 42hz (though a grand piano goes deeper than that, at what level?), I'm not really in need of extreme output at super-low frequencies, except for the occasional pipe organ recording. So, to those who know about both the GR and aluminum Rythmik 12" drivers, what does each offer in contrast to the other in the reproduction of music? I would love to hear from Brian and Danny!

What's the story on F12G availability? Dina Ly of Ascend Acoustics said that it's not available, but Rythmic Audio shows the F12G in Black Oak for $874: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12G.html.

I was also interested in the GR driver for possible greater articulation, until I was told it wasn't available by the Ascend salesperson, and was then steered to the F15. However, if the GR driver really is available, then I need to rethink my research. My room volume (2880 cu ft) is similiar to yours (2470 cu ft), and I'm also looking for clean detail for music listening at low to moderate levels (40-60 dB at listening position).

Has anyone heard the F12G vs F12 vs F15?
post #6719 of 9846
^^ for F12G, please order directly from our website. Since the drivers are from GR, Ascend does not carry them.
post #6720 of 9846
I apologize if this has been covered, but 6721 postings are just too much to go through. I’m looking to upgrade my sub and Rythmik is one of several that I’m considering. I’m wondering about the frequency response. My Denon 3808 (with Audyssey MultEQ XT) has set the crossover for my L&R speakers at 60Hz, my center at 80 and my surrounds at 110. When I look at the sub specs I see a frequency response of 14-100Hz for the 12’s and 14-90Hz for the 15’s.

A couple of the 12’s have this statement, “The new A370PEQ2 amplifier, now shipped standard with F12SE, has an additional low pass filter setting --LFE. It extends the upper end -3db extension to 200hz.”, but still has a spec of 14-100.

So, is my selection limited to the two 12’s with the A370PEQ2 amplifier or is there something that I’m missing about the rest?

Also, is the LFE setting for the extension to 200Hz going to affect the 14Hz end of the range?
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