Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 227

yanknuck - thanks for the reply! I found the official site (I was looking at the ascend audio one, not realizing rhythmik can take orders) and I see some costs for shipping. They use UPS, but UPS often rips off Canadians by attaching potentially hundreds of dollars in extra fees, so I am waiting for rhythmik to tell me if they have an "all-in" option that takes care of brokerage without the criminal fees.

When did Salk and Rythmik team up? I don't remember seeing this option when I was hunting for a sub a few years ago. I always thought that the salk and rythimk sub drivers looked the same. Now it looks like they have something they acutally call the salk/rythmik subwoofer. The walls on the Salk/Rythmik being a bit thicker. I wonder if this is worth the premium they're charging. It does say a lot about Rythmik though that a well respected speaker designer like Jim Salk would want to team up with Brian. I think that was a good move Brian...money in your pocket either way. Maybe this has been going on a while and I just haven't noticed, but at any rate, I hope it works out for you. I think it will.

I was going to ask for a link, but then realized I'm not that lazy
http://www.salksound.com/salkrythmik%20-%20home.htm

Salk made a wise choice for the sound quality, but at the same time it says a ton about Rythmik/Brian's quality and sound for Salk to grab on. I know they are high quality high end sound as well and very similar sound/build/components to the philharmonic stuff which is also receiving high praise.

Looks very win-win to me.

So does this RAAL ribbon blow away my B+W 805S?

Am I still getting my second sub discount in a few months? I'm not delaying eurotrip regardless.

I think you just said the same thing I did, but in a different way.
I would bet that their soundscape line would be better. I'm not sure what those B&W's cost. If I had an extra $5k for speakers...I would be in the market for their veracity HT2-TL model.
Edited by benclement11 - 8/3/12 at 10:16pm

LOL, Im sitting here going through there website too. Always read high praise but haven't actually heard them. These B+W were a bit pricey plus I got the matching center, but I got them 10 years ago, too young to know better then to read AVS, and paid the B+M pricey price. Regadless I did listen to a ton off stuff and these came out on top. They put a smile on my face still. Really like them but would like to hear some other nice stuff, seems to be a lot of bang for the buck in speakers these days.

I think my imaging is really good but I have heard these criticized for not being great off axis (imaging falls apart when you move around). I can see that, when Im trying to really listen you need to get in the right spots for the good stuff. Its not a tiny listening space but it doesn't just image great all over the place, don't really understand how that could work right.

I have a couple of Salk/Rythmik 15" subs (equivalent to F15HP) and to me the premium was well worth it at $1495 vs $1399 or $1224 from Rythmik direct..

Here is a thread on the cabinet design that Jim Salk posted:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=103880.0

The upgraded cabinetry weighs 176 Lbs vs 108 for the F15HP. The ability to chose among any type of wood finish, and even to match color with existing furniture goes a long way with WAF.

Lastly, Jim Salk is one of the best people I have done business with, period. Honest, patient, no hard sell, and always goes the extra mile to make sure people are satisfied.

Gz

Yeah it's not a ton more and I think it would be worth it if you want a different cabinet option. What finish did you get? Can I see a picture? Salk has beautiful finishes on their speakers. You can pretty much do whatever your little heart desires with them, which is great for the consumer.

I'm sure those B&W are great speakers and are better than what I have. Sure maybe you could have done better for the money...but if you like them that's all that matters. Home audio is definitely a journey, you live and learn.

I'm pretty excited, I'll be ordering the Sierra-1NrT upgrade and the F12SE sub. I have a question... I will most likely use a receiver to connect the speakers and woofer to my TV. What would be a good receiver to use. I was thinking of using the Marantz SR5007. I there another receiver I should consider?

Thanks!

Is it OK to coil up extra length of subwoofer cable? I've just bought this 35ft monoprice cable. Getting longer is a safer bet than too short.
Will it affect anything?
How about standard speaker wire? Can it be coiled?

I have the extra length of my sub cable loosely coiled up and there's never been a problem.

I would not coil power, speaker, and line level cables together due to the chance of hum/noise pickup but in general it is not a problem.

?

What's your budget and speaker arrangement (# of speakers now)? I suggest asking your AVR question in one of the various AVR threads it will get better responses.. From a subwoofer perspective most of today's AVR's would do fine as the subs amp will drive it. All the AVR has to do is provide a lfe/sub out connection.

Thanks to everyone for the info on the effect of coiled cable.

Oh no the question mark was to see if anyone would answer my previous question. But thank you for the explanation. I learned something new!

Brian and I are in synch, as usual. There can also be voltage field pickup from wires run in close proximity if shielding is not good, especially on the line-level cable.

For an AVR, my current choice would be the Denon 4311 to get XT32 and ability to handle to subs. Since it is an older model it can be found cheap ($1500 or less, see the price thread on AVS). I had planned to get one to replace my Pioneer but Life interfered...

XT32?

XT32:

Ahhh... I didn't know that was the code for it. I know the name is Audyssey.
Edited by Hawaiiancerveza - 8/6/12 at 8:48pm

Output of ported versus sealed sub are the rythmik versions close in range. I am using them in a 25x16 16 foot cathedral ceilings matched with a sierra tower andcstc ribbon center. I had a error which landed me a fh15se versus ported. At this point immat the keep or get the beastly version, thoughts to make the sealed work?

I would think the sealed would match better with the Sierra towers. The sealed is a little smoother and mellow compared to the ported. I'm also splitting hairs here there is a difference but it's not night and day. If your listening volume is not over 95-100db then the sealed will work great. The increased output of the ported is all in the 20-35Hz range from there up they are the same. Hope this helps in your decision.
Larry

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

This actually does. I'm struggling with keeping the sealed or returning for a ported design. My listening levels are well under 95db even for those late night movie sessions. Would you say they are both equal if used say 70/30 HT/Music or would one trump the other. I typically listen 80-85db on a very self indulged movie evening. If I could keep the sealed I would save myself 300+. I just don't want to open/unwrap only to have, what if in the back of mi head.

If your room is 6400 cu. ft. you might want the sub with the greater output, even if you don't listen at reference levels. Your current sub is the sealed 15" non-HP version, correct?

I need help correctly hooking up my recently acquired F15.

I am running it to help my Magnepan 1.7s get the low freq down.

The system is a HT with an Onkyo 805 recvr/emotiva XPA-3 amp.
Currently hooked up via LFE.
Do crossover settings on the sub get inactivated when connected thru LFE?
On the Onkyo the speakers are set as full range,while the sub kicks in at 80Hz.
This is creating a boomy bass on some recordings.

At AC someone suggested I go with High current inputs on the subs and connect one of the Maggies thru it. This will then allow me to set the crossover at the sub.

The other setting on the sub are the initial recommended ones.

Thanks!

I have the F15 HP SE In my possession right now which is the HP. It was an accidental oversight ordering quandary. I was discussing the purchase of a FV15HPSE the order was placed for the one I have now. I never validated the order just assumed (and you know what they say about assuming) and thus the unit shipped is the sealed.

I am new to Rythmik but very familiar with the SVS (own the ultra 13) and in the SVS ported versus sealed is a big difference. I am trying to balance additional costs versus will it be a noticeable difference. I know its probably not a fair question to ask but figure if it could be answered it would be on this forum. I am leaning towards your reco (bigger output better) especially given the size of room and optimal blending with remainder of my gear. I appreciate all the feedback/help.

I'll try to help...

Yes, the sub's crossover and phase setting are disabled when input is the LFE jack. Those settings are functional when the Line input is used. Are you trying to get double bass from the maggies and the sub?

I'm a little confused when u say "On the Onkyo the speakers are set as full range,while the sub kicks in at 80Hz." My AVR's have always been "Full Range/Large" or a crossover selection. I believe the recommended setting is not double bass and pick a crossover. 80 is standard recommendation. Audyssey XT32 tried to set mine to 40, but i went with 70 to try for now. looks like your specs are 40-24 kHz, maybe experiment with settings from 60 to 80 set on your AVR crossover.

EDIT: A little more info
When you set speakers to full range/large and hook the sub up only the .1 LFE channel content is being fed to the sub, none of the other speakers content get's crossed over and directed at the sub. The sub would not play with 2.0 stereo content.

Integrating a sub with Maggies can be tricky. One thing you might try is Magnepan's suggestion of running the 1.7's full-range, and using the L/R preamp outputs to drive your Rythmik so it is always active (tell the AVR "no sub"). Follow the advice in this thread and/or the Rythmik website to set the sub's level and phase, then enjoy!

In my system, I use an active crossover so the L/R look like full-range to the AVR, but the Maggies's (MG-IIIa) do not see below about 50 Hz. I went into the line in of my subs as I needed to use the PEQ and phase adjustments (my AVR does not EQ the sub range).

set speakers to small in the AVR. What "small" really means is "engage bass management." Try crossing over at 80 Hz. Right now you've got some overlap which will yield bloat. You do not want to stack the AVR's low pass on top of the sub's low pass, so stick with the LFE input.