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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 243

post #7261 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by polizzio View Post

My first impression was to just ignore the above.....but rarely have I seen a post with such paradoxical content.
"I currently have two CHT 18" subs and while I do very much enjoy them, I feel I might prefer a ported sub. That being said, I am not on the hunt for 2 to replace my current setup. "
If you "very much enjoy" your CHTs, why even post or enquire here? "not on the hunt 2 replace" but appealing for comments or feedback here....."where should I start?"
You must have swallowed copious volumes of the CH kool aid over time, you seem really confused.
Or did you read the latest GTG results and decide to "jump ship"?
My advice to you......take two aspirin and reconsider your path forward in two or three days smile.gif

Sorry, it should have said....

I am NOW on the hunt....

I had two MFW-15s before the amps went to crap, grabbed the CHTs. While I do enjoy them, I just feel like I might have preferred my MFW-15's as far as being ported.

I post here because I am doing my research and being open to different brands, just because I enjoy something doesn't mean I am going to keep it forever.
post #7262 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

below90hz,
I vehemently disagree that subwoofer g2g events are not worthwhile to determine differences in subwoofers. Placement is typically identical. The room nulls and modes most often treat the subs in a very similar fashion,when placed in the same location as evidenced by the frequency response captures captured on each entry. You hear subs back to back in the same room. There is no better way to audition multiple subs. Listening to different speakers on different days in different rooms on different equipment as the alternative is worthless. Audio memory is terrible and biased.

I do agree more with below90hz(Ethan). IMHO, the best format is like an Audio Show where each room is almost identical in dimension (they are hotel rooms). Each vendor can use their best bag of tricks. The trick includes how to bring out the best sound of speakers/subs to make best use of the capabiliity of the subs. No one will practically use a less output subs at mid wall. And then, attendees can spent as much visiting from one room to another back and forth as many times as they want. The host of any audio event has the advantage of being more familar with how the system should sound in their rooms. Still, the sub comparison done by Ethan and his brother last probably months, even after the reivews were posted.

You mention audio memory. But the same thing is how the heariing is impacted after you hearing loud burst sound. I remember someone said in the middle of GTG, some begin to grab ear plugs. I am not sure why the others don't need ear plugs. Or they just forgot to. But for those don't, their hearing is likely begin to show ringing. If you go to a shooting range without ear muffle, you know how that do to your hearing "short term". Even at home, the play back level can get progressively louder becasue of the fatigue (or becoming numb) until the spouse intervene.

The best format is really in first round, just all not so loud music when everyone's hearing is still clear and fresh. After that round, someone may want to hear a partiular sub again to do a comparison. That should be allowed. Then the next round is all the heavy stuff. But doing this will take more than 40 minutes for each sub.
Edited by Rythmik - 11/6/12 at 6:21am
post #7263 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikullla View Post

when is the new FV12 going to be available? I need a sub within the next few weeks but was thinking to hold out for this or any special on black friday.
thanks
mike
The new model LV12 should be available end of this year, or early Jan the latest.

Holiday sales

There are also questions about the holiday sales which had hold off some customer's purchase decision. For anyone who bought from beginning of Nov to end of this year, if there is a lower price for the same item during this period, we will match the price and refund the difference. So that should take out some uncertainty. F12BO/BM is already on sale. The other sub that is likely on sale is the E15SE.


Quote:
Originally Posted by KMFDMvsEnya View Post

On another note I am really curious to the performance differences and increases that will be present with the HX800 F25 and the potential HP version down the road.
Best Regards
KvE
It will matter only if you listen to HT a lot. When I measure the output of F25, its output is close to FV15HP. The high power version is 2db higher output than regular version. But don't hold your breath for it because HP version of F25 needs switching power supply. It is only available for 230V version.
post #7264 of 15163
^^^ Brian, please give us a realistic waiting period for the new F25;one, two, three months, longer, or just don't know at this time?
post #7265 of 15163
The supplier has started ordering all the material. The schedule is Dec. I need to check with again if it is early Dec or late Dec. Transformer and heatsink panel has the longest lead time. There will be 10 units or more if needed air shipped and rest via ocean freight.
post #7266 of 15163
Upgrading my subwoofer is the last piece of my drawn-out HT upgrade, and I've been planning on getting an F15. But now that I'm getting ready to actually order I'm considering whether I should go with an F15HP or FV15 instead. I've read all the comparisons I could find, but I couldn't find enough info to come to a conclusion, so I figure it might help to ask for some direct advice.

First some background.

While I'm probably 80/20 movies/music, I'm more critical when listening to music, so I like the prospects of better SQ from a sealed sub. But I also want to get the lowest extension reasonable for those low frequency rumbles in movies, and make sure that I'll got enough volume.

My space is L-shaped with the theater in the living room (about 13'x19' WxD), and a dining room (about 12'x12') to the left of the front soundstage. Total volume is about 3500ft^3, but there are also two open doorways to the rest of the house.
The natural spot for the subwoofer is to the right of the front soundstage, in the corner between the two longest walls (25' and 19').

I tend to listen to both music and movies at ref-20dB normally. I might crank it up, say to -15dB, for a movie, but definitely not higher than -10dB. At -10dB, was hitting an SPL spikes (at MLP) of around 90-95dBC on "loud" action scenes like the opening of Transformers or the Mumakil attack in ROTK.

My speakers are Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1's (87dB@1W/1m) for LCR and CBM-170's for side and rear surrounds, all powered by an Outlaw model 7125 (125Wpc). MLP is about 10' from the front speakers, and about 12' from where the front of the subwoofer would be.

For comparison purposes, I'm currently using an original model SVS 20-39CS powered by a parts-express 250W plate amp. I have not noticed it to lack raw volume in my space, but then again I don't tend to pay close attention while actually watching a movie. I expect that anything in the F15 range would be a big upgrade. My current sub will shake the floor when listening at -10dB, but it is also down-firing, and I'm not sure if a front-firing subwoofer would at the same (or any) SPL.

I use Audyssey MultiEQ XT32 to equalize everything, but I'd prefer reasonably flat response to start with. I do use REW to verify the FR and potentially tweak some things afterwards as well.


So then, the questions. From the graph in post 1325 it looks like the F15 would max out at around 92dB at 10Hz, and around 97dB at 14Hz (at 1m). Given my room, I'm not sure how much re-enforcement I'd get at various frequencies from corner loading (I'm assuming it's not the same across the whole 10-20Hz range?).
Does it seem like I should be able to get good response down to the 10Hz range for my tastes (as described above)? If not, how low do you think I would get? How much lower would I get with an F15HP? Do I really need to go vented (12Hz tune) to get a reasonable result?


Any advice or comments would be most appreciated.
post #7267 of 15163
OORAH!

Just got the email informing me Brian has shipped my new FV-15HP...........should be rattling the new sheetrock by Saturday. Thx again Brian smile.gif

BTW, David_R, I owned an F15 and it was so sweet, so controlled.......but alas, she drowned 8/29/12.
Trying an FV15 this go round. You cannot go wrong with either of Brian's fine products. I only hope the FV proves to be as accurate, unobtrusive, and defining as my F15.
Trust Brian, believe me smile.gif

My open LR is about 7100 cubic feet.
Edited by polizzio - 11/6/12 at 3:49pm
post #7268 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by David_R View Post

Upgrading my subwoofer is the last piece of my drawn-out HT upgrade, and I've been planning on getting an F15. But now that I'm getting ready to actually order I'm considering whether I should go with an F15HP or FV15 instead. I've read all the comparisons I could find, but I couldn't find enough info to come to a conclusion, so I figure it might help to ask for some direct advice.

First some background.

While I'm probably 80/20 movies/music, I'm more critical when listening to music, so I like the prospects of better SQ from a sealed sub. But I also want to get the lowest extension reasonable for those low frequency rumbles in movies, and make sure that I'll got enough volume.

My space is L-shaped with the theater in the living room (about 13'x19' WxD), and a dining room (about 12'x12') to the left of the front soundstage. Total volume is about 3500ft^3, but there are also two open doorways to the rest of the house.
The natural spot for the subwoofer is to the right of the front soundstage, in the corner between the two longest walls (25' and 19').

I tend to listen to both music and movies at ref-20dB normally. I might crank it up, say to -15dB, for a movie, but definitely not higher than -10dB. At -10dB, was hitting an SPL spikes (at MLP) of around 90-95dBC on "loud" action scenes like the opening of Transformers or the Mumakil attack in ROTK.

My speakers are Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1's (87dB@1W/1m) for LCR and CBM-170's for side and rear surrounds, all powered by an Outlaw model 7125 (125Wpc). MLP is about 10' from the front speakers, and about 12' from where the front of the subwoofer would be.

For comparison purposes, I'm currently using an original model SVS 20-39CS powered by a parts-express 250W plate amp. I have not noticed it to lack raw volume in my space, but then again I don't tend to pay close attention while actually watching a movie. I expect that anything in the F15 range would be a big upgrade. My current sub will shake the floor when listening at -10dB, but it is also down-firing, and I'm not sure if a front-firing subwoofer would at the same (or any) SPL.

I use Audyssey MultiEQ XT32 to equalize everything, but I'd prefer reasonably flat response to start with. I do use REW to verify the FR and potentially tweak some things afterwards as well.


So then, the questions. From the graph in post 1325 it looks like the F15 would max out at around 92dB at 10Hz, and around 97dB at 14Hz (at 1m). Given my room, I'm not sure how much re-enforcement I'd get at various frequencies from corner loading (I'm assuming it's not the same across the whole 10-20Hz range?).
Does it seem like I should be able to get good response down to the 10Hz range for my tastes (as described above)? If not, how low do you think I would get? How much lower would I get with an F15HP? Do I really need to go vented (12Hz tune) to get a reasonable result?


Any advice or comments would be most appreciated.

IMO you do not need to go lower. The sealed and vented versions are very close in performance due to the servo circuit. Downfiring or front firing a sub can shake the floor. You have a fairly large space so I would go with the F15HP. All FWIWFM - Don
post #7269 of 15163
Will the F12SE go on sale? I was looking into getting 2 of them possbily and curious if any discounts for buying two F12SE's? thanks, wink.gif
post #7270 of 15163
David_R,

I had an F15 in a room with twice the area (10' ceilings) as yours. And my F-15 performed quite well. I also prize musical performance, not overbearing but interwoven, seamless. I listen to a lot of classical, cello and piano performances...in addition to rock, jazz, and just about anything except rap or trash mouth lyrics. And it did ok for movies, didn't rattle the whole house but again, that BIG room of mine (~7100 cf).

Based on YOUR listening level data/info, I would recommend for YOU the F-15. You won't believe how good an F-15 sounds.....I still remember. Never before heard a sub that emitted such sweet, accurate, table flat, bass reproduction. Cello performances came ALIVE. Ditto an acoustic double bass!
And YOUR listening levels are substantially less than mine were (I have and use a NICE sound level meter in room), in a smaller room (my hearing is damaged, I'm 54 and abused my hearing terribly during the younger days).

The F-15 will please you well, believe me. Its musical performance is simply astounding. Or if you have a bit of doubt or want more, step up the the F-15HP with the 550 watt PEQ3 amp. (this amp is a hundred dollar discount for .5 db overall reduction, see Brian's note on order page.....I ordered the same with my FV in transit, this time)

Now if you wanna really rock the house during movies, rattle the walls, then I would do a FV-15HP with the 550 amp. Or a pair of F-15s, some advocate there are acoustic benefits to a pair of subs (dispersion in a large room). I almost ordered a second F-15 about 8-10 months ago from Brian, for DD movie performances only.

Good luck, your gonna enjoy a Rythmik sub either way :-)
Edited by polizzio - 11/7/12 at 4:56am
post #7271 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

The new model LV12 should be available end of this year, or early Jan the latest.
Holiday sales
There are also questions about the holiday sales which had hold off some customer's purchase decision. For anyone who bought from beginning of Nov to end of this year, if there is a lower price for the same item during this period, we will match the price and refund the difference. So that should take out some uncertainty. F12BO/BM is already on sale. The other sub that is likely on sale is the E15SE.
It will matter only if you listen to HT a lot. When I measure the output of F25, its output is close to FV15HP. The high power version is 2db higher output than regular version. But don't hold your breath for it because HP version of F25 needs switching power supply. It is only available for 230V version.

Then how would the F25 compare to say a JTR S2? Supposedly, the JTR can legitimately hit single digits. Based on your statement above, I would not think that of the F25. (I'm considering moving my E15 to another room and replacing it with an S2 or an F25 but I fear the S2 would have more output down to single digits which is the only reason for me looking to make this change in the first place - in other words, output down to single digits for movies that have that content.)
post #7272 of 15163
JTR S2 = ~ $2900 + shipping.

F25 = ~ $1500-1600 + shipping when they were originally for sale.

I think you should call Jeff immediately for your S2, and the single digits you cannot even hear. Spend that money! smile.gif
post #7273 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by realjetavenger View Post

Supposedly, the JTR can legitimately hit single digits.

I love it.

FWIW, you can get a rough idea of what the S2 (or the F25) would do with this handy dandy calculator.

http://www.baudline.com/erik/bass/xmaxer.html

With 2-18" drivers with 30mm of xmax and solving for dB.
Edited by Steve1981 - 11/7/12 at 8:14am
post #7274 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by David_R View Post

So then, the questions. From the graph in post 1325 it looks like the F15 would max out at around 92dB at 10Hz, and around 97dB at 14Hz (at 1m). Given my room, I'm not sure how much re-enforcement I'd get at various frequencies from corner loading (I'm assuming it's not the same across the whole 10-20Hz range?).
Does it seem like I should be able to get good response down to the 10Hz range for my tastes (as described above)? If not, how low do you think I would get? How much lower would I get with an F15HP? Do I really need to go vented (12Hz tune) to get a reasonable result?
Any advice or comments would be most appreciated.

I tested these subs almost everyday. A 10hz is not audible at all. If one hear anything from 10hz tone, what they heard is the distortion + residual noise from the driver and the amplifier. If the sub has low noise, you don't hear anything at all. You only feel the air moving from you. So our objective is not too get high output at 10hz, but to get low group delay which you don't need high 10hz output. There are some movies with 10hz content. To make best use of the subwoofer, it is recommended to corner load the sub plus maybe turn on the rumble filter. That way you don't over tax the sub.

I didn't know kwarny had brought one of his DS1500 CI to one comparo and some commented that he does not feel the sub is on. But from the FR they meausred on spot, it showed the frequency response is flat down to almost 10hz. So there is no deficiency in output. It is just that it is so clean that it takes someone used to other harmonic distortion rich subs a bit more time to realize this is actually a cleaner sounding sub.
post #7275 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by polizzio View Post

JTR S2 = ~ $2900 + shipping.
F25 = ~ $1500-1600 + shipping when they were originally for sale.
I think you should call Jeff immediately for your S2, and the single digits you cannot even hear. Spend that money! smile.gif

No you can't hear it but you can feel it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve1981 View Post

I love it.
FWIW, you can get a rough idea of what the S2 (or the F25) would do with this handy dandy calculator.
http://www.baudline.com/erik/bass/xmaxer.html
With 2-18" drivers with 30mm of xmax and solving for dB.

Thanks for the link
post #7276 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I tested these subs almost everyday. A 10hz is not audible at all. If one hear anything from 10hz tone, what they heard is the distortion + residual noise from the driver and the amplifier. If the sub has low noise, you don't hear anything at all. You only feel the air moving from you. So our objective is not too get high output at 10hz, but to get low group delay which you don't need high 10hz output. There are some movies with 10hz content. To make best use of the subwoofer, it is recommended to corner load the sub plus maybe turn on the rumble filter. That way you don't over tax the sub.
I didn't know kwarny had brought one of his DS1500 CI to one comparo and some commented that he does not feel the sub is on. But from the FR they meausred on spot, it showed the frequency response is flat down to almost 10hz. So there is no deficiency in output. It is just that it is so clean that it takes someone used to other harmonic distortion rich subs a bit more time to realize this is actually a cleaner sounding sub.

Brian,

At what frequency range and how loud that one starts to feel air move? I can hear and feel the bass, but never the air or bass pressure (of course I don't listen at reference volume). Is it because I have 7000 cubic feet to fill (although the room is 12x16x7, 3 doors open to rest of the basement)?
post #7277 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by nith View Post

Brian,
At what frequency range and how loud that one starts to feel air move? I can hear and feel the bass, but never the air or bass pressure (of course I don't listen at reference volume). Is it because I have 7000 cubic feet to fill (although the room is 12x16x7, 3 doors open to rest of the basement)?
The room I have all of our assembly subs tested is in a 12"x17" completely enclosed. If I let the door open, you don't even feel the air moving. But with door closed, our F15HP has about 20-25mm peak to peak excursion at 10hz and you just feel the walls slowly pulsing because the wavelength is so long.

At 20hz, it is still audible. 14hz barely audible. 10hz, I cannot hear it.
post #7278 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by polizzio View Post

OORAH!
BTW, David_R, I owned an F15 and it was so sweet, so controlled.......but alas, she drowned 8/29/12.
Trying an FV15 this go round. You cannot go wrong with either of Brian's fine products. I only hope the FV proves to be as accurate, unobtrusive, and defining as my F15.
My open LR is about 7100 cubic feet.
Sorry to hear about the untimely demise of your F15 frown.gif When you get your FV15HP dialed in, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the comparison between them. Other than Brian, I think you'd be the first direct comparison between F15 and FV15 in the same room I've seen, although separated by a few months.

Quote:
Originally Posted by polizzio View Post

I had an F15 in a room with twice the area (10' ceilings) as yours. And my F-15 performed quite well. I also prize musical performance, not overbearing but interwoven, seamless. I listen to a lot of classical, cello and piano performances...in addition to rock, jazz, and just about anything except rap or trash mouth lyrics. And it did ok for movies, didn't rattle the whole house but again, that BIG room of mine (~7100 cf).
Based on YOUR listening level data/info, I would recommend for YOU the F-15. You won't believe how good an F-15 sounds.....I still remember. Never before heard a sub that emitted such sweet, accurate, table flat, bass reproduction. Cello performances came ALIVE. Ditto an acoustic double bass!
And YOUR listening levels are substantially less than mine were (I have and use a NICE sound level meter in room), in a smaller room (my hearing is damaged, I'm 54 and abused my hearing terribly during the younger days).
Thanks very much for your thoughts. It sounds like other than you having a bigger room, and listen at higher volumes, our priorities are similar and you were happy with your F15. Is that a fair summary?
Quote:
Originally Posted by polizzio View Post

The F-15 will please you well, believe me. Its musical performance is simply astounding. Or if you have a bit of doubt or want more, step up the the F-15HP with the 550 watt PEQ3 amp. (this amp is a hundred dollar discount for .5 db overall reduction, see Brian's note on order page.....I ordered the same with my FV in transit, this time)
Oh yeah, I was definitely planning on going with the H550 amp if I did the F15HP. Makes a comparison simpler that the F15HP-H550 about the same cost as an FV15, too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I tested these subs almost everyday. A 10hz is not audible at all. If one hear anything from 10hz tone, what they heard is the distortion + residual noise from the driver and the amplifier. If the sub has low noise, you don't hear anything at all. You only feel the air moving from you. So our objective is not too get high output at 10hz, but to get low group delay which you don't need high 10hz output. There are some movies with 10hz content. To make best use of the subwoofer, it is recommended to corner load the sub plus maybe turn on the rumble filter. That way you don't over tax the sub.
Quite true, I was not expecting to "hear" 10Hz content. I'm also assuming that "pressurizing" the room is out of the question for any sub due to the large openings to the rest of the house. Honestly I was originally not even considering output that low, but it seemed the F15 could do it, and as the saying goes, more is better wink.gif

What I am interested in the <15Hz content for is more visceral impact and the floor-shake/rumble (for lack of a better term) when it's appropriate (giant creature-stomp, for instance). I get some of that today at higher volumes, but I suspect I'm missing quite a bit of it. In your experience, do you think that I'd be able to "feel" the <15Hz content from a subwoofer at sufficiently high SPL? (Or was what I was feeling from higher frequency signal to begin with? I guess I haven't actually checked that before.)
I should probably mention that my floor is of standard hardwood-on-joists construction, so it has some give to it. In fact I can easily make bookshelves and such shake a bit by jumping up and down many feet away. Obviously I wouldn't expect any floor-rumble if I was on a concrete slab.
post #7279 of 15163
Hi guys, i have a (confusing) question regarding my F15HP.

If I have my AVR connected via LFE in, and a preamp connected via Line in - which controls the sub if both are on and active?
Is there any risk to the sub amp if there is an active input on both the LFE in and the Line in?.

For watching movies I have the FL and FR channels going via HT bypass on the preamp, with the AVR connected directly to the sub LFE in.
When listening to music one of the the preamp outs is connected to the sub line in - so the sub is active for music (I have a separate high pass control on my active speakers and use the low pass on the sub).
Unfortunately, even in HT bypass mode, both preouts on the preamp are active. Hence, when watching movies, the AVR would be sending a signal via LFE in, and the preamp a signal via line in.

Thanks in advance
post #7280 of 15163
Any negative with going for 2 x FV15HP with the 550 amp instead of the 600? I noticed its a .5 dB difference but other than that, all the PEQ functions remain the same?
post #7281 of 15163
No. In fact, the 550 has more power supply storage (larger caps) so might actually be a little better than the 600.
post #7282 of 15163
^^
Really? Where do you get such info if you don't mind me asking? I got the fv15 550w version just to save money but do not know it has larger caps and better. How could that be? How can Brian sell the 600W version then? Thanks.
post #7283 of 15163
I found the Amps comparison here: http://rythmikaudio.com/amplifiers.html
They are the same with only 2 differences:
H550-PEQ
Output Power (4ohms): 550W RMS
Power filter caps: 4x50V/22000uF (Panasonic)

H600-PEQ
Output Power (4ohms): 600W RMS
Power filter caps: 4x63V/18000uF (Panasonic)

Now this translates to which one better, I do not know.
post #7284 of 15163
Brian posted the numbers some time ago. The difference in power output and capacitance is actually not very large, and some people will go for the biggest power number no matter what. Given the choice, I would personally choose the 550. If you want energy, then U = 1/2 * C * V^2 but I do not know the voltage rails. Using the capacitors' rated values, the 550 has 110 J and the 600 has 143 J so there is more energy storage capacity in the 600 at the caps' rated voltages. I am guessing from the power ratings (P = V^2/R, and Vpeak = Vrms * sqrt(2)) that each amp is actually using two caps in series, or maybe the amps are bridged (perhaps more likely), I don't know. The A-series amps are class AB, and H-series class-H, so the rails on the H-sereies amps get switched ('ish). Big power caps are usually run at 50% to 75% of their rated voltage but there's really no point in playing games. In the real world I seriously doubt anyone will notice the difference. I have a pair of F12's with the lowly 370 W amps and they do fine... Note 740 W (twice the power of my amp) would only be an extra 3 dB of headroom and my room and ears don't need it.
post #7285 of 15163
In a 2 channel environment, Any advantage from running stereo subs ? I certainly dont need more SPL, I have the F15 kit and honestly the F12 Kit would been sufficient. (actually overkill in my space). I was planning on getting another set of Floorstanders for a different audio flavor (aesthetically) from my current bookshelf speakers, then it dawned on me that stereo subs acting as stands for the bookshelf speakers would be a killer setup.

Something like this...

dualrythmiks.jpg
post #7286 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboys View Post

^^
Really? Where do you get such info if you don't mind me asking? I got the fv15 550w version just to save money but do not know it has larger caps and better. How could that be? How can Brian sell the 600W version then? Thanks.

What Don meant was the difference between H600 and H550 is small. Buth H600 still has higher output. So the question is why do we have these two models with such close output rating? Well the cap used on H600 has voltage rating of 63V volts and we only use 53volts. So there is still room to increase the output. However I weighed the balance between output and heat dissipation. Going forward, we will keep H600. But that does not mean H550 will be lacking in support because these two models use the same power amp module so we can continue to support both models with the same power amp module.
Edited by Rythmik - 11/7/12 at 10:30pm
post #7287 of 15163
Henry Rollins has had 35+ years of some of the greatest music ever made exposed at 120db. Somehow I doubt high end equipment makes it all the way to his brain. He's complained about tinitis (constant ringing) in his ears.
post #7288 of 15163
David---I've heard the following from sub users who suggest that this ultimately is the only way to find out which you will be most satisfied with: Order both an F15HP and an FV15HP; audition them both in your own system and room; keep the one you prefer overall, send back the other. You will be out the shipping for that one---whether that cost is or is not worth it to you only you can say. I don't think Brian would like TOO many people doing this!
post #7289 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

In a 2 channel environment, Any advantage from running stereo subs ? I certainly dont need more SPL, I have the F15 kit and honestly the F12 Kit would been sufficient. (actually overkill in my space). I was planning on getting another set of Floorstanders for a different audio flavor (aesthetically) from my current bookshelf speakers, then it dawned on me that stereo subs acting as stands for the bookshelf speakers would be a killer setup.
Something like this...
dualrythmiks.jpg

qguy---What a cool sub cabinet shape!
post #7290 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydneyaudio View Post

Hi guys, i have a (confusing) question regarding my F15HP.
If I have my AVR connected via LFE in, and a preamp connected via Line in - which controls the sub if both are on and active?
Is there any risk to the sub amp if there is an active input on both the LFE in and the Line in?.
For watching movies I have the FL and FR channels going via HT bypass on the preamp, with the AVR connected directly to the sub LFE in.
When listening to music one of the the preamp outs is connected to the sub line in - so the sub is active for music (I have a separate high pass control on my active speakers and use the low pass on the sub).
Unfortunately, even in HT bypass mode, both preouts on the preamp are active. Hence, when watching movies, the AVR would be sending a signal via LFE in, and the preamp a signal via line in.
Thanks in advance

Thinking about buying a Rythmik sub and this is exactly how I'd try and hook it up. Would love an answer on this as well.
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