Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 280

Pure speculation from what I can see on the website yet build quality on the box could be more robust on the 15HP. From what you can see of the inerds of the XS30 I would say the motor/magnet of the 15 inch Rythmik driver is substantially bigger (heavier), as is the driver basket. The Rythmik amp transformer/power supply is also substantially larger/heavier. Just my thoughts.

Cheers

Prepare to be amazed. I went from an 8 year old 10" 100 watt Sony to an F12 a couple of weeks ago. There is no comparison. After you get your new sub set up and listen to it a little while you'll realize the Sony really wasn't a subwoofer, just a big boom box.

While I haven't seen them mentioned, the Blu-Ray version of any of the Matrix movies are great for bass

Hi Brian,

Sent you a PM but unable to get a response so Posting my query here:

How do I set the KK (that thump in the chest (mid bass 50-250Hz)) and F12 (to get the rumble in the sofa / floor (low bass < 40Hz)) ?

Please pardon my ignorance I may be trying to achieve something which is difficult given my limited knowledge of how things work. Your easy to understand advice ( for new newbies ) much appreciated and thanks in advance for that.

My receiver ( AVR – Marantz SR7005) has Audyssey Multeq XT which has 2 sub outs is capable of setting up dual subwoofers. My first thought when I got the KK was to connect it to the 2nd sub out and let audyssey do its thing. But I think I am wrong as I need audyssey to see the sub as one not as two separate subs.


The KK is placed on top of the F12 , should I use a “y” adaptor and connect the AVR ( using only one sub out) to the “line in” KK and F12?


How to set the knobs ( initial setup of the parameters) on the subs so as to integrate KK & F12 before audyssey and after audyssey?



For Rythmik F12:

Would be grateful if you could kindly guide me on the initial setup of parameters for the F12 "before audyssey" and "after audyssey" .


PEQ on or off?
Settings for :
Gain
Bandwidth
Frequency

Delay/phase , crossover , level setting?

Settings for subwoofer low pass and rumble filter

Settings for extension filter: freq and damping

For KK 808:

Would be grateful if you could guide me on the initial setup of parameters for the KK 808 before audyssey and after audyssey.

Auto on/off:
Low pass filter:
Bass level:
Variable phase:
Variable low pass filter:

Some information on my current setup:

Fronts – Monitor Audio GX300
Centre – A pair or Monitor Audio RX6.
Surrounds – RX1
Emotiva – XPA 1’s for the fronts
ATI amp for the center and surrounds
Oppo 95
Marantz SR7005 AV Receiver – using it as a pre amp and hooked to ATI and Emotiva amp.

Room – wide 3.4m x long 4.0m x height 3.8m

Crossover settings as per below:
Fronts: Monitor audio GX 300, small / 80hz
Centre: Monitor Audio silver RX6 (pair) , Small / 90 Hz
Surrounds: Monitor Audio RX1, Small / 120 Hz
LFE (not LFE+main)
LPF for LFE = 120 Hz

Will this work?
From the AVR sub out the signal goes to the F12 line in , the F12 is the PEQ 2 with HPF output. The RCA from F12 HPF out connect to KK-808 RCA Line input !

Effectively am I routing the low bass to the F12?

It is better than running a single KK 808 which definitely cannot produce the lows the F12 can . The F12 is taking over the 50hz to 20hz region . The KK is highly and accurately effective in the 50hz and above .

Thank you for your patience. Look forward to your comments.

rgds
Ajit

Your AVR is equipped with Audyssey MultEQ XT, which only EQ 1 subwoofer. The AVR has internal Y splitter, hence you see 2 subwoofer outputs. You can hook up 2 subs, but Audyssey will equalize both of them together, treating them like a single sub.

Sad but true. It's that way with newer Marantz units. (sobs inconsolably while hugging his SR5007)

If upgrading, it's my understanding that the Denon, 4311ci has stereo (separate) subwoofer pre-outs and comes with MultEQ, XT32, a much better upgrade choice then a Marantz, SR7007.

Even Audyssey SubEQHT enabled units EQ as one sub but SubEQHT provides separate distance and trim settings which is kinda convenient if you have exactly two subs. Are the subs equidistant from MLP?
If not equidistant from MLP, without measurement gear, but an SPL meter (there's a good enough app for this on smartphones) recommend you
1) Gain match them (search gain matching, good instructions by craig john around here)
2) use audyessey to get the distance right for the furthest sub (just the furthest sub hooked up)
3) play sine wave in stereo at crossover frequency tweaking that distance a bit till it has highest SPL (least destructive interaction with mains)
4) hook up the second sub and add delay to time align with the furthest sub. Use the phase knob on the sub (must be using line in) to introduce the delay. Remember the AVR delay is already present. Again play sine wave at crossover frequency and adjust the phase knob on the sub till SPL reads highest at MLP. You could calculate the ballpark phase if you wanted to.
5) Figure out if you have the right combined levels (75db test tone). You may need to note the AVR sub distance and phase setting and rerun audyssey to get the levels correct, then reset the distance and phase.

You can do better then this with REW and a measurement mic. The new USB mics are a pretty cheep set up. SPL meters are 20-30bux and are nice to have around. The smartphone app is not reliable but should be able to tell you louder or softer, do a sanity test though. You could do pretty well with your ears if you don't have to walk back and forth so get a helper to tweak the knob if you don't have the tool.

Hope this helps

What kills me, I found out about USB mics, after purchasing an EMM-6 and accompanying, 50', XLR cable and setting everything up. Now looking to buy replacement USB mic and 50', XLR > USB cable. Life can be so unfair.

(Yes honey, you're right. I did just buy a new Phantom Power Supple, mic and 50' cable and no, I won't be using this stuff once I upgrade to a USB mic. But (with appropriate whine), it will make me happy and you do want me happy.........don't you? )

Just an add, one needs to keep in mind that USB has limitations as to distance; 5m. My understanding, to extend this range, every five meters, as per linked information, one needs to add a USB hub.

Our rub? I'm on a PC and it's about 35' distance so I need a 15m USB cable. ... So sad...

Ohhh Gooodness, my better half loves this sort of thing. She get's extra trips to the mall, Ouch everything I buy for my system costs double.

I'm using a RatShack SPL meter. It gets dinged a lot and it bothers me about how much I can trust the graphs, but after looking at various mic comparisons it really isn't that bad. I'll probably waste the hundie anyway so I can sleep at night without Frequency Response, ETC, and waterfall graph nightmares.... is it .7db off OMG.

LOL

How true, how true. It's hard to say, "Honey, I'm the man and I want this!".....and expect to get taken seriously. (Sure honey; with a generous coating of sugared sarcasm poured on top) Today, it's "Quid pro quo, baby."


I've recently gone through a couple of sound meter upgrades and for the price, this sound meter is a winner.

Goes down to 30dB, has an internal calibration oscillator, way cool, easy to read back light and has an excellent feel when in the hand being used, all at a great delivered price. I have a "RatShack" digital meter and have used it for years but the meter is limited to 50dB, is +/- 2 dB and 120dB on the top end. If looking for a new measuring toy, I highly recommend this meter.

FWIW, before buying this meter, I hit the hip for a pricier meter and calibrator that only measured down to 40dB. Enters the new, less expensive meter that I'm currently smitten with. The wife? She already has her shopping spree planned out.

-

Having just ordered the LV12R, I would of paid more for that setup with the DS1200 aluminum cone driver.

Are you sure that "female" didn't have an Adam's apple?

What I meant is I would of paid more for the setup you described with an aluminum driver. I think a product to fill the gap between the LV12R and FV15 would be attractive.

This would be something I would buy.
Any chance you could offer a more powerful
amp as an option?

A hundred bucks for a higher quality product? It's a no brainer, yes.

Thoughts?

For customers with mortal budgets, we still want quality and the best quality we can get for the price, pretty much, wins the day. In the case of subs, to get the best room smoothing, we're looking at two, three or four subs and in that scenario, as you know, we're looking at price, size and WAF as well as parametric settings to help integrate the new purchase into a room's acoustics.

If the sub won't pass the WAF test, won't fit in a room or the final delivered price is too high, then it's on to the next manufacture's product mix until the right fit can be found. Al carte would be nice also, pick the parts, you assemble and ship, we get what we want for what we consider to be an affordable price.

Choosing this box, with this driver, with this amplifier, delivered, for the price found in one's shopping cart. Maybe that's a bit over the top or maybe the suggestion is doable. As a consumer, I've no idea if the above is even in the ballpark of realistic.

Hope the above is the type of input you're looking for.

-

Help please!

Is the H550PEQ3 in lieu of H600PEQ3 amplifeir -$100 worth it?

I know Rythmik states that this is less than .5 db differance... Just wondering what everyone thinks?

The ports on the front below the driver,similar to the 15vhp?
With a smaller foot print than the 15vhp and with the DS1200
driver I would pay 800-850 dollars shipping included.I think it
hits the sweet spot for many HT/music set ups.

Brian,

So it sounds like this model would be competing with the likes of the below:

Outlaw LFM-1 EX
HSU VTF-3 MK4
SVS PB12-NSD

You have my attention for sure, but like some of the other posters I recently too purchased an LV12R from you. When do you think we could expect to see this model roll out?

That's really up to you if you have to have that extra .5 db. I figured I didn't need the extra .5 db in my room so I went with the 550 amp.
It still gives me as much as I need and more. I was able to put that $100 toward an amp for my hungry 4 ohm speakers.
Edited by XStanleyX - 2/15/13 at 11:19am

I am very interested in the "less expensive" models. Particularly the sealed versions.

The $700 version would include shipping too, which is awesome to me.

To clarify, any of the new models would cost $100 more if the DS1200 driver is used. Correct?

Just picked up my LV12R and see a listing for white matte. Will that be a color option in the future? If so I think I can find room for a second sub.

The little beast has arrived . Some pics for your viewing pleasure.



Unboxing and installation has to wait till the evening.
Edited by raaj - 2/15/13 at 1:08pm

Can't wait to play with this tonight.

The required arrival pics(with dog)

oops,x2 post.

My wife is going to have a panic attack once she comes home this evening. The box is almost as tall as my monitors on stands, and the accent table. It'd be an interesting exercise trying to position it in my room, such that it doesn't appear to dwarf all other surroundings. I can't imagine how big the boxes for the mammoth subs like the Submersive and the Captivator would look in my room.

Paper cone as base model with aluminum cone as $100 upgrade