or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 287

post #8581 of 15202
Is it actually an outlet vent, or the return vent? If the latter, no problem. Either way , should be OK with 6" or so.

Is the little speaker there your main L speaker? Curious...

The 6" protrusion won't matter, and corner loading a sub increases its output so is neither wrong nor right, just something to consider when adjusting the response.
post #8582 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Given the 6 inch spacing from the wall you could easily affix a vent cover/redirector that would direct the conditioned air up and away from the Sub. May need to perform a little DIY/Mod to ensure the "vent director" doesn’t rattle given the LV12R's jet blast.. biggrin.gif


You know, I was not going to bother with bass traps/accoustical panels/etc. (at least not until I moved into a different place), but your post gave me an idea.

They make vent redirectors like this:


It is basically just a cover and a chute to direct the airflow elsewhere. Nothing too complicated about it.


Maybe I could make a panel like this guy did:
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 75

Except on mine the backside of the panel would have a chute to direct the air upwards. Maybe something like 24"(w) x 48"(h).



Something like that would:
1) keep the vent from blowing directly on the sub, but still allow the air to enter and heat/cool the room (as opposed to straight up covering the vent)
2) prevent waves from entering the metal duct and panging around
3) act as a general wall dampener
post #8583 of 15202
Correct, you don't want to block the vent, just direct the air up over the sub. Whether a return or exhaust vent, your idea of fabricating an acoustic panel of sorts to redirect the air is an excellent idea. Like you mentioned, you could kill a few birds with the one stone so to speak...

Cheers
post #8584 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Is it actually an outlet vent, or the return vent? If the latter, no problem. Either way , should be OK with 6" or so.

Is the little speaker there your main L speaker? Curious...

The 6" protrusion won't matter, and corner loading a sub increases its output so is neither wrong nor right, just something to consider when adjusting the response.



It is an outlet vent not a return. So the hot and cold air would be blowing directly on the sub. Like I said, I would imagine the sub might actually like the cool air, but probably not the hot air.


Yes, that little speaker is my main L speaker. It is from an old Kenwood HTIB I have. Do not worry though, it is only temporary and will be going away soon wink.gif.
I have 5 Cambridge s30 bookshelves on order that will replace everything. The 5 s30s and the LV12R will be my 5.1 setup (when they finally get here, I got an email saying the s30s were on backorder, and I am getting anxious biggrin.gif).

The Kenwoods are just for the meantime while I wait, and as a destination to give me something to run the speaker cables to.

Also, I will be putting the s30s on proper wall mounts, as opposed to the Kenwoods which are just hanging on a nail at the moment.

This made me think of something though, I do plan on mounting the s30 in these wall backets in approximately the same location in that photo. Were you asking because that might be an issue mounting it there with with the sub under it? (or were you just asking because it is a tiny little plastic speaker hanging on a nail? lol)
Edited by Goride - 3/5/13 at 12:39pm
post #8585 of 15202
The latter... smile.gif

I like the absorber idea too; make one for each side to balance the look and sound. Any number of fabrics will work OK to help with WAF/GAF if you go DIY to save money, and that way she can help choose.
post #8586 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

Ah, i see thats why Brian suggested a corner frequency of 150hz due to the shallow slope.

I was board yesterday and made switch than enables me to choose direct mode or use the HPF on the Rythmik, what I noticed is that the output on the Rythmik is much louder compared to the unfiltered signal from my pre-amp. If I adjust the gain on the sub for movies, I get too much bass on direct mode. Is there a way to reduce the output of the HPF filter ? A potentiometer perhaps ?

The HPF output of early rev version of PEQ amp has a gain of 2x. If you know how to solder, I can send you a photo on how to change it to gain of 1x.
post #8587 of 15202
No need .. I added a 2 resistors per channel (4.7K) on a selector switch i made for direct and HPF output.

I know it would have been easier to do it internally with your instruction but I am chicken to touch anything inside the Rythmik amp biggrin.gif

Thanks anyways
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

The HPF output of early rev version of PEQ amp has a gain of 2x. If you know how to solder, I can send you a photo on how to change it to gain of 1x.
post #8588 of 15202
Well..I got a huge suprise today... My FV15HP arrived! My back hurts... And I have not dialed it in yet...even the way it is sounds amazing.

Anyone help me with "typical" settings for the back?

Will post a full review once I get everything set up. You guys will get kick out of my pics.
post #8589 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie01 View Post

Well..I got a huge suprise today... My FV15HP arrived! You guys will get kick out of my pics.
waiting...
post #8590 of 15202
Happy F12 owner here. Wanted to ask a question... I thought I remember
Rythmik saying they would be releasing a budget sealed sub. Along the lines
Of the FV12.

Any ideas of a release date and a price point??
post #8591 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by grasshoppers View Post

Happy F12 owner here. Wanted to ask a question... I thought I remember
Rythmik saying they would be releasing a budget sealed sub. Along the lines
Of the FV12.

Any ideas of a release date and a price point??

It is out. It is the LV12R. Intro price is 550 shipped but goes up to 600 or 600+shipping after the intro period. Use the product menu at the top of the website to get to the page for it, the other way wasn't forking the last time I tried. Seems like a good amount have been picked up and I've only heard positives thus far. I think it is going to be a winner quasi taking over that point. The others it seems folks are considering in the low 6's seem to be the Outlaw LFM-1 Plus and HSU VTF-2 MK4.
post #8592 of 15202
He was asking about a new "budget" sealed sub. My understanding is that Brian has some designs and is exploring naming conventions and positioning within Rythmik's product line. But it'd be better to heat the latest status straight from the horse's mouth.
post #8593 of 15202
The LV12R is a ported sub not a sealed one. The F12 is the smallest and least expensive sealed sub in Rythmik's lineup. It is currently on sale for 10% off (this makes the F12 10% less expensive than the F12G which is not on sale).

I too have the sealed F12 and love it. I have had it for a month now and am amazed. Our house is a little over 2,400 sq ft with 2/3 downstairs and 1/3 upstairs. The listening room itself is 1/2 of a 20 x 25 great room. Music is full and engaging as never before, even organ concertos. Movies are like watching them for the first time. When I am reading and my wife is watching movies I can hear and feel the F12 on the second floor. I am not running it hot in any way. Volume on the sub is at 12 o'clock and the master setting in the AVR is at -0.5dB. Extension is at 14 Hz. Damping was set to MID when I ran Audssey but I now have it set at HIGH. Rumble filter is OFF limiter is ON and dynamic EQ is OFF. I really can't say enough good things about this sub, it is everything I wanted and nothing I didn't.

I'd like to upgrade my office system next. I am currently using a set of Bose Companion 5's into my computer. I have a spare receiver. I would need to get a pair of near field mains and a sub but unfortunately the F12 would be mega overkill. This system would be strictly for music while I am working and I would think a small 8" sub is all it would need.
post #8594 of 15202
Found it! Budget sealed sub. I am interested!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I want to clarify that L12 is basically done. It will be a paper cone driver. The goal is to make it an entry level sealed sub. But the dual-port 12" version is still open to discussion. I think the model can benefit from an aluminum driver because the amount of excursion it can have below tuning frequency. It is not going to be an upgrade option. What I need to decide is if we should stay with paper cone to make it more affordable, or we should make it aluminum cone to make it more bullet proof. The supplier will hate us if we offer too many options.
_________________________________________________________________________
ALSO...

"The idea now is we will have a 400WRMS version amp that uses the same footprint as the one used in LV12R. Same function, just replace the power amp module with a higher power Hypex module. With that 400WRMS amp, we can offer sealed version and ported version. The sealed version is planned to retail at $699 (with shipping). The ported version (as being larger than LV12R and with 2 ports), will be $799-849 (with shipping). If we use DS1200 driver in the latter version, the price will increase by $100. This is the rough idea. Of course, I need to negotiate with my suppliers "
Edited by grasshoppers - 3/6/13 at 7:19pm
post #8595 of 15202
That's interesting. I wonder what the dimensions of the sealed version will be.
post #8596 of 15202
Got my LV12R today. I have a Yamaha RX-V671. I did YPAO calibration with sub level on the amp at 8 oclock and it set the subwoofer level on the AVR at +9. I then recalibrated at 2 oclock volume position and it set the subwoofer level at -3. I listen mostly at lower volumes close distance to the speakers and sub, and depending on time of day, mostly it would be around -40dB or lower. At night around -50dB. Since I listen at these lower volumes I ended up setting volume level to 2 o'clock on the amp, and +6 on the manual subwoofer setup on the AVR. I can't really hear the subwoofer when it's at 12 oclock. My mains are set at small speakers (Polks M75T). I followed the installation guide (for using an AVR) that came in the box on all the different settings for the amp. Just wanted to get inputs/suggestions on how to get the best out of this new toy smile.gif Thanks guys.
Edited by FP22 - 3/6/13 at 8:05pm
post #8597 of 15202
Here are a few pics. (ok...anyone help a newb out...they dont seem to be posting)


More to come and a full review. I am a happy owner so far! Still have not dialed it in or integrated it with my receiver.

Wreck it Ralph was awesome! Kids loved it.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/93820614@N05/8536228792/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93820614@N05/8535122725/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/93820614@N05/8536228794/in/photostream
post #8598 of 15202
Looks like it had a baby smile.gif
post #8599 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by FP22 View Post

Got my LV12R today. I have a Yamaha RX-V671. I did YPAO calibration with sub level on the amp at 8 oclock and it set the subwoofer level on the AVR at +9. I then recalibrated at 2 oclock volume position and it set the subwoofer level at -3. I listen mostly at lower volumes close distance to the speakers and sub, and depending on time of day, mostly it would be around -40dB or lower. At night around -50dB. Since I listen at these lower volumes I ended up setting volume level to 2 o'clock on the amp, and +6 on the manual subwoofer setup on the AVR. I can't really hear the subwoofer when it's at 12 oclock. My mains are set at small speakers (Polks M75T). I followed the installation guide (for using an AVR) that came in the box on all the different settings for the amp. Just wanted to get inputs/suggestions on how to get the best out of this new toy smile.gif Thanks guys.

What you had done is correct. Give it a couple of days to break in. The spider and surround need a bit of exercise. One of the most crucial components in a driver is "spider". But it is actually the lowest tech component too. It is made by a fabric immersed in some type of solution and then let be harden. So one can imagine the physical characteristic can change over time. Some people are adamant are there is no such thing as break-in. In reality, that broils down to the quality of the system. If the system has enough resolution, it will enable us the hear these subtle sound differences.
post #8600 of 15202
Break-in is a topic for another thread... smile.gif Curious though -- Brian, I would have guessed the servo would help minimize if not completely mitigate the break-in period?

@FP22: At lower volume you are also fighting the way our hearing works; it takes much more bass output to hear at lower levels (Google Fletcher-Munson curves). That is probaly why you prefer the significant boost. Nothing wrong with that, just suggesting an explanation.
post #8601 of 15202
Perhaps Brian could advise on this:

When launching the Audyssey calibration, the initial step to calibrate the sub gain to produce 75dB SPL, the receiver generates test tones for the sub to play. What is the longest duration these test tones could be run continuously, without causing any damage to the sub? I am wondering if this calibration test tone could be used to do a sub crawl to find the best placement for the sub? I ask this because my LV12R makes a small burp at the end when I stop playing the test tone, if I happened to run the tone for longer than 15 seconds or so while fidgeting with the sub gain knob to get the SPL as close to 75dB as possible. The duration is this long because the SPL level slowly ramps up from about 50dB to around the 75dB mark or beyond, and I need to incrementally turn the gain down to see if the SPL settles down close to 75dB. The burp at the end of the test tone is not loud - it's a burp, and not a POP. I could hear it because I stand right over the sub when adjusting the gain.

How do people do this routine, and Brian, please advise on the safe length of time the tone could be let to play on, and if this could be used to do a sub crawl.
post #8602 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

What you had done is correct. Give it a couple of days to break in. The spider and surround need a bit of exercise. One of the most crucial components in a driver is "spider". But it is actually the lowest tech component too. It is made by a fabric immersed in some type of solution and then let be harden. So one can imagine the physical characteristic can change over time. Some people are adamant are there is no such thing as break-in. In reality, that broils down to the quality of the system. If the system has enough resolution, it will enable us the hear these subtle sound differences.

Thank you so much smile.gif Bass is awesome.. Now I know what I've been missing!!
Edited by FP22 - 3/7/13 at 12:13pm
post #8603 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Break-in is a topic for another thread... smile.gif Curious though -- Brian, I would have guessed the servo would help minimize if not completely mitigate the break-in period?

@FP22: At lower volume you are also fighting the way our hearing works; it takes much more bass output to hear at lower levels (Google Fletcher-Munson curves). That is probaly why you prefer the significant boost. Nothing wrong with that, just suggesting an explanation.

Thanks, that explanation helps a lot smile.gif
post #8604 of 15202
I was working close to Archeae home and had a chance to listen to his set up with dual passive Captivators driven by 5kW Crown amp. How did it sound? Jaw dropping with tremendous crazy output. The reason I bring this up here is that I appreciate my single FV15HP even more in my smaller room now that I listened to one of the top two ranking subs here at all of the GTGs. My FV15hp sounds just as good and deep at the Cap but obviously less in output. If Brian can come out with an 18" servo sub, I am all in for that and I am pretty sure folks here will as well. Brian, are you listening?
post #8605 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboys View Post

I was working close to Archeae home and had a chance to listen to his set up with dual passive Captivators driven by 5kW Crown amp. How did it sound? Jaw dropping with tremendous crazy output. The reason I bring this up here is that I appreciate my single FV15HP even more in my smaller room now that I listened to one of the top two ranking subs here at all of the GTGs. My FV15hp sounds just as good and deep at the Cap but obviously less in output. If Brian can come out with an 18" servo sub, I am all in for that and I am pretty sure folks here will as well. Brian, are you listening?

Great opportunity, way to capitalize on that. Isn't Jonathan a super enjoyable and knowledgeable fella? I really enjoyed his company the day we spent together at the NE GTG.

Yeah, dual passive caps have tremendous output, I was flabbergasted as well the one time I experienced them. The Rythmik looks nicer, but the cap certainly looks intimidating. I'm not saying it looks bad, just a little more pro gearish. I understand they do offer higher end finishes as well for extra coin of course. The outside cone rings are crazy huge on that driver. It was certainly an experience that helped feed my addiction and kept my sights set on getting to the duals. So glad I did. I too and very pleased with the output and sound quality of my Rythmik set up, but those caps are SPL monsters. JTR Jeff is serious about output.

Glad you had the opportunity and shared the experience. What movie scenes and tracks did you all go through?
post #8606 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstew100 View Post

Great opportunity, way to capitalize on that. Isn't Jonathan a super enjoyable and knowledgeable fella? I really enjoyed his company the day we spent together at the NE GTG.

Glad you had the opportunity and shared the experience. What movie scenes and tracks did you all go through?
Jonathan is awesome. His contribution here is tremendous and he really does know what he talks about. I really enjoyed talking audio gears with him and was very glad to see him in person.
We did quite a bit in the ~ 2 hours span playing those 5 stars short clips that Jonathan has from Pulse, Open Range, Art of Flight, Underworld Awakenning, the bass I love track and a lot more which I can't remember now. Honestly, from memory, my single FV15hp in my room not only sounds good, and deep but also as loud as Jonathan's single Cap in his room. My room is smaller and might have more room gain than his. Too bad you did not have a chance to directly compare your single FV15HP with a single Cap or Submersive when you were at the NE GTG.
post #8607 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

Give it a couple of days to break in. The spider and surround need a bit of exercise. One of the most crucial components in a driver is "spider". But it is actually the lowest tech component too. It is made by a fabric immersed in some type of solution and then let be harden. So one can imagine the physical characteristic can change over time. Some people are adamant are there is no such thing as break-in. In reality, that broils down to the quality of the system. If the system has enough resolution, it will enable us the hear these subtle sound differences.

+1

Brian sent me an LV12R to review, and out of the box it actually came across as rather weak to me. This was the replacement for the vaunted FV12? I'm used to running all new subs for at least a dozen hours before doing any critical listening because they do indeed sound better with time, but this seemed a bit extreme. However, now that is has about 20 hours on it? Well, let's just say it's completely different. wink.gif
post #8608 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

+1
Brian sent me an LV12R to review, and out of the box it actually came across as rather weak to me. This was the replacement for the vaunted FV12? I'm used to running all new subs for at least a dozen hours before doing any critical listening because they do indeed sound better with time, but this seemed a bit extreme. However, now that is has about 20 hours on it? Well, let's just say it's completely different. wink.gif

I do the same thing. I know some drivers do not improve much, but nevertheless, break-in does not take much of my time, so why not do it? smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post

Break-in is a topic for another thread... smile.gif Curious though -- Brian, I would have guessed the servo would help minimize if not completely mitigate the break-in period?

Our hearing is not linear at all. So it is not like 2% will sound twice as bad as 1%. As a result, my view is that our hearing is like a curve and there are portion of the curve that our hearing is more sensitive and towards two extreme ends (whether it is extremely good or extremely bad), we cannot really tell much of difference. Servo does mitigate the distortion caused by spider/surround by 3-4x. If we start with a bad spider, no matter how long we wait, it still sound bad even after break-in. On the other hand, with a good spider and plus the distortion reduction mechanism from servo, the sound after break-in can fall into the range that either our hearing is sensitive (so we can continue to select a different spider to test the audible difference) or into the range that is so good that the spider distortion is no longer detected (or changing the spider does not improve sound by much). All of these is hand waving. But the most important part is getting the first reference system. Once we establish a reference system with good spider and create a very life-like articulate sound, the consequent development has something to look up to. That is basically my philosophy.
post #8609 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboys View Post

I was working close to Archeae home and had a chance to listen to his set up with dual passive Captivators driven by 5kW Crown amp. How did it sound? Jaw dropping with tremendous crazy output. The reason I bring this up here is that I appreciate my single FV15HP even more in my smaller room now that I listened to one of the top two ranking subs here at all of the GTGs. My FV15hp sounds just as good and deep at the Cap but obviously less in output. If Brian can come out with an 18" servo sub, I am all in for that and I am pretty sure folks here will as well. Brian, are you listening?

I will definitely keep that in mind. No promise though.
post #8610 of 15202
Quote:
Originally Posted by raaj View Post

Perhaps Brian could advise on this:

When launching the Audyssey calibration, the initial step to calibrate the sub gain to produce 75dB SPL, the receiver generates test tones for the sub to play. What is the longest duration these test tones could be run continuously, without causing any damage to the sub? I am wondering if this calibration test tone could be used to do a sub crawl to find the best placement for the sub? I ask this because my LV12R makes a small burp at the end when I stop playing the test tone, if I happened to run the tone for longer than 15 seconds or so while fidgeting with the sub gain knob to get the SPL as close to 75dB as possible. The duration is this long because the SPL level slowly ramps up from about 50dB to around the 75dB mark or beyond, and I need to incrementally turn the gain down to see if the SPL settles down close to 75dB. The burp at the end of the test tone is not loud - it's a burp, and not a POP. I could hear it because I stand right over the sub when adjusting the gain.

How do people do this routine, and Brian, please advise on the safe length of time the tone could be let to play on, and if this could be used to do a sub crawl.

75db is not loud. You can go up to 85db. If you do a sweep, the potential of frying the driver is much less because the thermal stress is different at each frequency. There are some frequency bands that are thermally challenging. For instance, for sealed sub, it is anything below 20hz. Some customer may get carry away playing a 10hz for a long period of time. That can cause a problem. For vented subs, it is the tuning frequency point having the highest thermal stress. But in a sweep, the signal passes these points briefly. So it is not a problem in practice.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread