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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 306

post #9151 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshjp View Post

Heu guys, im looking at getting the Rythmik FV15HP, im coming from 2 Epik Empires, i currently have 1, sold the other one last weekend, i just got the PSA XS-30 on Tuesday, but that didnt do it for me, so i was looking at the Rythmik FV15HP, as the SPL numbers are impressive, so how do you guys like yours? And ive heard people bottoming out the drivers, is this true for you guys?. thanks
Love mine. I have not seen one that is not happy with the FV15HP yet. It never distord or bottom out. I thought you were considering the Captivator?
post #9152 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshjp View Post

Heu guys, im looking at getting the Rythmik FV15HP, im coming from 2 Epik Empires, i currently have 1, sold the other one last weekend, i just got the PSA XS-30 on Tuesday, but that didnt do it for me, so i was looking at the Rythmik FV15HP, as the SPL numbers are impressive, so how do you guys like yours? And ive heard people bottoming out the drivers, is this true for you guys?. thanks

So you're going from two subs to one? I'd say you'll enjoy the FV15HP but it still may not live up to what you're looking for. I'd either suggest purchasing two of whatever you want next or step up to a Captivator or Submersive HP. I won't say much more in an effort to stay on topic.

Good luck!
post #9153 of 15163
If Rythmik (Bryan) gives his blessing, I can make badges out of acrylic with my laser engraver/cutter for those that would like something for their DIY kits. Options might be chrome, gold, slate, or a bronze color.
post #9154 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

If Rythmik (Bryan) gives his blessing, I can make badges out of acrylic with my laser engraver/cutter for those that would like something for their DIY kits. Options might be chrome, gold, slate, or a bronze color.

If Brian has no objections, I'll take a couple in Slate!
post #9155 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

If Rythmik (Bryan) gives his blessing, I can make badges out of acrylic with my laser engraver/cutter for those that would like something for their DIY kits. Options might be chrome, gold, slate, or a bronze color.

I'm anxiously waiting.. sign me up for two chrome, slate may be nice/subtle as well..

Thanks for coming forward WT_...biggrin.gif.
post #9156 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

If Brian has no objections, I'll take a couple in Slate!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

I'm anxiously waiting.. sign me up for two chrome, slate may be nice/subtle as well..

Thanks for coming forward WT_...biggrin.gif.

Cool -- thanks for the interest. I sent Brian a PM. Let's wait to see if we get a green-light.
post #9157 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

I'm anxiously waiting.. sign me up for two chrome, slate may be nice/subtle as well..

Thanks for coming forward WT_...biggrin.gif.

I'm planning on painting my cabs in a slate like (low-reflectivity Charcoal) color. Both Rustoleum and Krylon make a paint for creating a Chalkboard appearance. It looks a lot like Slate.
Edited by BDP24 - 4/12/13 at 2:28am
post #9158 of 15163
any chance of boomyness with the fv15hp !? since its ported and really loud ???? does big/ported/loud tend to bring some boomyness ?
post #9159 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemoreborn View Post

any chance of boomyness with the fv15hp !? since its ported and really loud ???? does big/ported/loud tend to bring some boomyness ?
What most users refer to as boom is the result of a response hump in the midbass, centered around 100Hz, and is usually the result of putting an inexpensive driver into a too small sealed cab.
post #9160 of 15163
Can I make my FV15HP boomy...yep. Can it integrate so well my wife asks me if the sub is on...yep.

Basically one line prior to Mid Loudness with room correction on and I get bass so good but well blended it is amazing.

Two lines past mid and I feel as if explosion really did come out of my TV. Now I corner loaded my Sub...and prior to room correction it was a little boomy even at those settings but now ...pure awesomeness. I need to do more placement testing ..just enjoying my system too much right now to tinker.

I should add that damping also has a boominess effect... Low = boomy at 2 lines past mid. High damping and not really even at 2 lines past mid.

On top of that I have mine in Max extension mode with 1 port and 14 hz.
post #9161 of 15163
does Rythmik do custom sub boxes? I want to use a sub as speaker stands but want it to look good not just putting bookshelf speakers on top on a box.
post #9162 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

I should rephrase as setting the front speakers to small and crossover the front speakers at frequency higher than the roll off of front speakers. I recommend this whenever bass management is available. On the other hand, in a 2.1 system, a lot of audiophiles prefer not to use any filter on the front speakers (for a minimalist approach). But the shortcoming is any design compromise on the front speakers in the bass extension department is left unchanged too. We have a subwoofer tuner Java program that can guesstimate the phase reponse of front speakers (currently only consider sealed and ported front speakers) and provide suggestion on how to set the subwoofer phase and crossover point to get close to perfect phase alignment. But if one is open to the possibility of adding HPF to the front speakers signal path and have a decent AVR in the system, one can always use the bass management in AVR for stereo signal source. In short, the design of dual system in PEQ3 (with both LFE and LINE IN) is for those who do not want to add filtering to front speakers in 2.1 system. If the customer can accept adding filtering in 2.1 system, he should consider use same bass management for for both HT and 2.1 setup.

-

I am open to the idea of adding HPF between my preamp and power amp but am not sure how to go about it. There is no AVR in this system. The amplifier is a NAD C372 integrated stereo amplifier. It does not have bass management capabilities. Even though the preamp and power amp are housed inside the same unit they are not connected internally. As I mentioned in my previous post, there are two sets of preamp out connections. One set is connected to the low level inputs on the sub. The other is connected to the power amp inputs. I assume an HPF or crossover (are these one in the same for this type application?) would be connected in-line between the pre out and power amp in connections.

I have looked at external crossovers and have found a variety ranging in price from $90 to $1,100. Most of these appear to be designed for PA use and have balanced XLR inputs & outputs. One thing I wouldn't want to do would be to add something that would degrade the quality of the current signal. I would like to relieve the main speakers of the lower frequency load since they are smaller bookshelf speakers (2-way ported with one 5-1/4" woofer each with a rated low extension is 50 Hz) and let the sub do what it does best. I currently have the sub's crossover set at 50 Hz to minimize overlap.
post #9163 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryder125 View Post

does Rythmik do custom sub boxes? I want to use a sub as speaker stands but want it to look good not just putting bookshelf speakers on top on a box.

I don't know if Rythmik offer this service but you could ask your local cabinet carpenters to build one or more subs to suite your taste. Another option is give Jim Salk of Salksound a call. He made many Salk/Rythmik custom subs.

IMO, it is not a good idea to place your monitor on top of a sub. the monitor may walk (this will cause damage to the top of your sub and potentially falling down) and vibration will affect your speakers performance. There is a long heated thread on this topic at Audiocircle.com
post #9164 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie01 View Post

Can I make my FV15HP boomy...yep. Can it integrate so well my wife asks me if the sub is on...yep.

Basically one line prior to Mid Loudness with room correction on and I get bass so good but well blended it is amazing.

Two lines past mid and I feel as if explosion really did come out of my TV. Now I corner loaded my Sub...and prior to room correction it was a little boomy even at those settings but now ...pure awesomeness. I need to do more placement testing ..just enjoying my system too much right now to tinker.

I should add that damping also has a boominess effect... Low = boomy at 2 lines past mid. High damping and not really even at 2 lines past mid.

On top of that I have mine in Max extension mode with 1 port and 14 hz.

what u use as room correction ?
post #9165 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboys View Post

Love mine. I have not seen one that is not happy with the FV15HP yet. It never distord or bottom out. I thought you were considering the Captivator?
Yea i was considering alot of think, cant even begin to count, but Tom and Jim at PSA, said i could send back the XS-30 and get the XV-30, they wont even charge me the $153 to send it back if i do that. They are the best.
post #9166 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdogg View Post

So you're going from two subs to one? I'd say you'll enjoy the FV15HP but it still may not live up to what you're looking for. I'd either suggest purchasing two of whatever you want next or step up to a Captivator or Submersive HP. I won't say much more in an effort to stay on topic.

Good luck!
Im getting the XV-30 now, i belive i need a ported sub, i will get another one down the road.
post #9167 of 15163
Glad to hear that worked out for you Josh.
post #9168 of 15163
Hey there everyone. A year or two ago I wanted a bigger subwoofer for my room and ended up choosing the BIC F12. Not a bad sub, but I got the itch again about a month ago and started doing some research.

Long story short, narrowed it down between the SVS PB1000 and the Rythmik LV12R. After reading through this thread, ended up purchasing the Rythmik. Can't wait for it to arrive. Should be arriving tomorrow (Friday) sometime. Looking forward to becoming a member of the Rythmik community! Will post mini review/thoughts after I get it dialed in this weekend. Cheers!
post #9169 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

If Rythmik (Bryan) gives his blessing, I can make badges out of acrylic with my laser engraver/cutter for those that would like something for their DIY kits. Options might be chrome, gold, slate, or a bronze color.

If you do get the ok from Brian, put me down for 2ea. in Slate.

Do you have any initial ideas of where (grill or enclosure) or how (double sided tape?) these would be attached?

Thanks for taking the initiative.
post #9170 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlundy57 View Post

I am open to the idea of adding HPF between my preamp and power amp but am not sure how to go about it. There is no AVR in this system. The amplifier is a NAD C372 integrated stereo amplifier. It does not have bass management capabilities. Even though the preamp and power amp are housed inside the same unit they are not connected internally. As I mentioned in my previous post, there are two sets of preamp out connections. One set is connected to the low level inputs on the sub. The other is connected to the power amp inputs. I assume an HPF or crossover (are these one in the same for this type application?) would be connected in-line between the pre out and power amp in connections.

I have looked at external crossovers and have found a variety ranging in price from $90 to $1,100. Most of these appear to be designed for PA use and have balanced XLR inputs & outputs. One thing I wouldn't want to do would be to add something that would degrade the quality of the current signal. I would like to relieve the main speakers of the lower frequency load since they are smaller bookshelf speakers (2-way ported with one 5-1/4" woofer each with a rated low extension is 50 Hz) and let the sub do what it does best. I currently have the sub's crossover set at 50 Hz to minimize overlap.

Lundy---There is a company named Harrison Laboratories which makes a product named FMOD. It is a metal cased assembly with inputs on female RCA jacks and outputs on male RCA's. You plug the male RCA's on the interconnects coming from your pre-amp into the female inputs on the module, and the male output RCA's of the FMOD into the jacks on your power amp. Harrison offers different frequencies and slopes, and this product does exactly what you want. Do a search for FMOD or Harrison Labs and read all about it. Passive parts only, and $20-$30!
post #9171 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Lundy---There is a company named Harrison Laboratories which makes a product named FMOD. It is a metal cased assembly with inputs on female RCA jacks and outputs on male RCA's. You plug the male RCA's on the interconnects coming from your pre-amp into the female inputs on the module, and the male output RCA's of the FMOD into the jacks on your power amp. Harrison offers different frequencies and slopes, and this product does exactly what you want. Do a search for FMOD or Harrison Labs and read all about it. Passive parts only, and $20-$30!
You get what you pay for. They work, but not that well. Like all passive filters the cut off frequency and filter Q is determined by the load impedance. The problem is that there is no standard for the input impedance of an amp, it could be 100k ohms, it could be 5meg ohms, so an FMod is like a box fo chocolates, you never know what you're going to get.
Quote:
I have looked at external crossovers and have found a variety ranging in price from $90 to $1,100. Most of these appear to be designed for PA use and have balanced XLR inputs & outputs.
Look more closely. Many have both XLR and 1/4" TRS, and most with 1/4" TRS are balanced/unbalanced compatible. You're more likely to find TRS at the lower end of the price range.
post #9172 of 15163
How should i connect the rythmik f15hp i got with my sc1222k reciever? The paper it comes with says line level in, but im using lfe.
post #9173 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

You get what you pay for. They work, but not that well. Like all passive filters the cut off frequency and filter Q is determined by the load impedance. The problem is that there is no standard for the input impedance of an amp, it could be 100k ohms, it could be 5meg ohms, so an FMod is like a box fo chocolates, you never know what you're going to get.
A simple solution to this unknown load issue is to add a load in the circuit so that the actual load of powr amp is insignificant. I would use a 5kohms to start with. The purpose is to get some attenuation. Some may say the 5kohm load adds a load to the preamp. But todays amp's can easily handle that type of load. The exact crossover can vary by 10%. But these are only necessary if you want a pure passive crossover network.

-
Edited by Rythmik - 4/12/13 at 9:08am
post #9174 of 15163
anyone have an idea what kind of wood is use to build the f12?
post #9175 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkywooo View Post

anyone have an idea what kind of wood is use to build the f12?

All Rythmik models are built with MDF. They then either get laminated or painted.
post #9176 of 15163
Just wanted to give kudos to Brian for quickly shipping out a replacement driver that solved an issue I'd had. Great customer service as many others have already talked about.
post #9177 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

You get what you pay for. They work, but not that well. Like all passive filters the cut off frequency and filter Q is determined by the load impedance. The problem is that there is no standard for the input impedance of an amp, it could be 100k ohms, it could be 5meg ohms, so an FMod is like a box fo chocolates, you never know what you're going to get.
Look more closely. Many have both XLR and 1/4" TRS, and most with 1/4" TRS are balanced/unbalanced compatible. You're more likely to find TRS at the lower end of the price range.

What Bill says is, of course, all true. The best way to do what you want is to have a tech add the passive parts inside your power amp, right on the input jacks. He can calculate what value components are needed to get the frequency and slope you want, taking into account your amp's input inpedance. Doing it this way also allows you to choose the quality of parts you use, based on how much you want to spend. Assuming you believe passive parts to have their own sound quality. Brian does! I don't know if this is appropriate or not (let me know if it isn't, anyone!), but I have a Dahlquist passive crossover I no longer need, now that I'm using the Rythmik plate amps along with the passive parts scenario described above. The nice thing about the Dahlquist is that the crossover frequency is adjustable. Google it and see if it meets your needs.
Edited by BDP24 - 4/12/13 at 12:29pm
post #9178 of 15163
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

The best way to do what you want is to have a tech add the passive parts inside your power amp, right on the input jacks. He can calculate what value components are needed to get the frequency and slope you want, taking into account your amp's input inpedance.
But for that price, if not a lot less, you can get an electronic crossover with at least 3rd order filtering, adjustable frequency, and should you ever need it, low-passed outputs for mains. Electronics these days are far too inexpensive to make it worthwhile or cost effective to mess around with passive components.
post #9179 of 15163
Wednesday, my FV15HP finally arrived. I set it up and it was working wonderfully. What an awesome sub compared to my old HSU. Thursday night I was doing the sub crawl trying to find the best position for the sub. In the process I had to switch outlets a few times and at one point there was suddenly no power to the amp. I pulled the fuse and it was OK and in the process of plugging the power cord back into the amp, I saw the light go on, then flicker and then it went out with an accompanying burnt electrical smell and now is completely dead. I contacted Rythmik via e-mail and received a very prompt response from Brian indicating that, shocked as he was that an amplifier would display such symptoms, he would ship me a replacement.

Today (Friday) while at work I thought to myself whether it might be worth a try to hook up the sub using a different power cord. I scrounged around and found an old computer cord and guess what!????...........it fixed the problem! Woohoo!

Has anyone else had problems with the supplied power cord?

I, needless to say, immediately contacted Rythmik and told them to cancel that shipment. Great C.S.
post #9180 of 15163
Just picked Jurassic park up on blu-ray. Watched the trex scene and my LV12R almost tore my room down. I'm starting to wonder if adding a second one is the right idea smile.gif I run it 3db hot and so far it chuckles at everything I throw at it. Brian are you sure this is your entry level HT sub? I can only imagine the grins on the faces of you guys with the FV15HP.
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