Jet Family Theater build is about to begin - Page 2

I think I got it, here is the workaround:

I first attach the clip's flat plate on 2x4's 2 side with wood screws, then attach 2x4" to the ceiling joists. Then I build the wall and drill holes through the top plate, then use long screws and nuts to secure the anchor, now the question is, how big is the whole on the center of the the clip anchor and if I can find the something like 3 1/2" long screw with nuts, then I think it is doable, just need to make sure I measure it carefully so the wholes are lined up.

Would this work?

It is around 6' from the foundation wall, total span is about 16', the plan is to remove the first 3 studs which is about 3' so, it will be 7' wall left and 9' total openings.

Floyd, understand your point fully, this is what I am not sure and why I am seeking advices here. I see pretty much everyone in my neighborhood did the same thing, but I still want to make sure it is safe to remove 3 studs. Well, I am still busy doing fireblocking so I will leave it until drywall time. Your point is much appreciated.

Yes, my township has a little manual for finishing basement in that I read the similar requirements. Here is the plan I submitted to get permit and got approved:


As you can see, the vertical space is blocked by drywall and top plate of the wall so fire won't be able to travel to horizontally into the joist cavity, and in the picture, the duct soffit is also sealed and separated from the joist cavity above and wall air gap between the foundation wall and framed wall.

Originally, I was about to do as planed, however, it is too difficult to do that way, so instead one small piece of drywall between sill plate on top of the foundation wall and top plate of the framed wall, and a large piece of drywall in the soffit, I just put a big piece of drywall and then attach the top plate of the framed wall to the joist through the drywall. As far as codes concern, I think it will achieve the same fireblocking goal. Actually, the building manual in another county in PA has a diagram showing exactly the same way as I did.

 

BasementDetail.pdf 339.7568359375k . file

Just got back from my local code office:

1. My alternative way of doing fireblocking on soffit is acceptable,
2. Using DC04 clips for soundproofing is also approved as long as "is installed per manufactures instructions".

So next is to order some DC04 clips, need figure out how many, I would say 25 ~ 30 at 36" spacing for 14x20' room, there are two doors (one entrance, one for equipment cabinet under stair) and two posts, 36" soffits on each side of the long walls (running through in and out the theater room).

I have few questions that I need some advices:

1. What is the typical spacing do you choose? 48" is maximum, is the larger the spacing, the better soundproofing? If you do DD+GG, the wall will become heavier, do you need to space the clips shorter distance?

2. How do you fasten the clips to the steel I-Beam?

3. Do you also de-couple soffit to the ceiling? Assume one end of the soffit (L shap) is attached to the de-coupled wall, if you attached the other end to the ceiling without using DC04, then what good it does since sound can travel from wall through soffit to the ceiling, am I right? I saw folks here also did DD+GG on soffit, but I am thinking of doing fabric under the soffit bottom, bad idea?

Ted, where are you?

Fotto, I saw your replied my questions and now it is gone, weird?

Well, finally got this section of HVAC work + fireblocking done, here are some pictures:

Re-route one supply pipe to the upstair, other wise, I have to frame a bump out,


I took out this pipe, moved to next cavity close to the wall, temporarily sealed, will be used for supply to the bigger room in the basement later.


Cut the new hole for takeoff, this tool doesn't do:

This one does:

Hole cut and takeoff collar fitted to the end cap of main trunk

Takeoff re-routed:

After

I also run the bathroom vent duct, the 4" flex pipe you see in the picture.

Looking up at the ceiling joist, those are two return air slots on ceiling for upstair at the far end of room right above I-Beam, builder just closed the cavity.
This one is in a standard width joist cavity, so I can run a flex duct through:


The following two are in 5" cavity, no way I can run flex duct, I might be able to squeeze 4" flex, but that would restrict air flow, so I still have to use the cavity, just need some insulation.

This one is in the middle of the theater room, tow return slots for dinning room and second floor guest bed room, cavity is too small to run flex:


From another angle:

OK, took sections of return duct down for fireblocking:

Attached 1/2 sheet rock as firestop material:

Also, run two 6" flex ducts, one for living room upstair, one for another section of the basement outside the theater room, also, replaced one supply pipe with 8" flex duct for the dinning room right above the theater room. Close two small cavities with 2" rigid board and sealed with duct tape, I may also cover it with a sheet of metal or I can just leave it as is.



Done, all sections of the return duct wrapped with Reflectix bobble foil wrapper hopefully to provide some sound isolation and all back up hanged.

At the end of the return trunk, added collar for return vent in theater room.


Question, how many supplies and returns do you usually put in your theater room, on what locations? mine is 14x20", 2 supplies or 2 returns? I know the code mandate that hot air supply has to be at the lower portion of the wall, cannot be on ceiling.

I hate the builder, this is the main gas pipe, run off the wall about 3 feet, and is in the middle of stair end and foundation wall, I don't want to loose headroom right at the end of stair well to frame a fur down box for it, so it has to be moved close to the wall later, another obstacle I have to deal with.

Left is the stair well, another angle, toward electric panel:

This is a 7" hot air supply pipe to the living room, can I put a tee to branch off for this part of basement?

I followed your thread and saw what you did with your duct work, until you do it youself, you don't know what a piece of royal PITA it is! It took me two weekends, plus few hours every evening when I got home, wife was complaining the noises I made but she did helped me to raise up the trunk for me to hang.

Wow, I am really honored that this is the first time BIG commented on my thread.

I do own a jig saw and I also have some metal blades, however, the mechanism to clip and hold the blade failed You are exactly right, nosiy as hell.

The other cheap MultiMaster knock out tool on the other hand, is great for cutting drywall holes.

Since framing has not started yet, I can still play around with the location of equipment cabinet location. There are possible 4 locations:


Opt1
pro, not taking up any other spaces
con, no a lot of space under stair, cannot fit a taller rack, difficult to do all the wiring and cable management there.

Opt2
pro:larger and taller rack can fit in
con:taking up extra space that I could place my treadmill there

Opt3
pro, larger and taller rack can fit in, possibly for double entrance doors for better sound isolation
con, taking up space for my kid playing room, shortening it about 3"

Opt4
pro, larger and taller rack can fit in, no taking up extra spaces in finished area of the basement
con, squeeze the washer and dryer space

As you can see, I made a stupid and expensive mistake when deciding where the egress cut should be. Had I cut it next to the electric service panel, not only I would have gained 3' in the theater room, but I would have also space for equipment cabinet!

Opt1 is my original plan and I am still trying to see if I can make it work and live with it. Opt4 is my second choice, well, for opt1 and 2, I just play around to see the how they play out in the basement layout.

I have 28 degree framing nailer gun and I bought a case of 10 gauge 3 1/4" framing nails, I read some where that framing 2x4 wall requires 16d nails which is 3 1/2" long, so should I return the 3 1/4" nails and go get 3 1/2" nails instead?

Thanks fotto.
For the pressure treated bottom plate, I bought 2 1/2" galvanized nails together with Ramset .22 caliber actuated gun, the HD guy said 2 1/2" is enough to fasten 2x4 PT to the concrete, but I somehow I feel I need 3" ones, this is what I got: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

I have another dilemma, I will need to frame two walls that are parallel to the joist along the foundation wall, I know I need to add nailer blocks or braces between rim joist and the first joist, the problem is, how do I fasten nailer blocks to the rim joist or to the sill plate on top of the foundation wall? Just not much clearance to wiggle neither with drill, nailer gun or hammer or hand screw driver.

Friend told me his cousin's place carry a sound dampening product called 440 Soundbarrier manufactured by Homesote, here is the manufacture's product link: http://www.homasote.com/products/440-Soundbarrier.aspx

It claims the 1/2" board to be able to achieve STC 51 rating for simple wall assembly and 54 for floor and ceiling assembly. Wonder if anyone has real experiences with this product and how is to compare to DD+GG which claims to be able achieve 55 STC, but depends on types of wall assembly, 440 board can go as high as 66 STC with decoupled double wall and 440 board on on both side: http://www.homasote.com/Catalogs/200...Assemblies.pdf.

If it is as it claimes, could it be the DD+GG alternative? From the surface, it seems much easier to install and is probably more cost effective.

I managed to get the blockings installed.

Good point on using the galvanized nails for nailing studs to the bottom plate. Now where can I find such nails for my nailer gun?

I just checked, the two boxes of nails I bought are galvanized 3 1/2" nails, so I am good.

Now my PC dies on me, just BIOS just won't post, I shut it down last night normally and this morning, turn on the machine, don't see anything on the screen, checked all connections, checked CMOS battery, checked memory, took out CPU and re-installed, absolutely nothing worked, it just won't boot! Maybe it is time to upgrade the system, I built it like 6 years ago, with AMD Athlon 64x2 3800+ processor and overclocked it, back then it was a very fast machine. And I just upgrade from XP to Windows 7!