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Feedback on CIH mechanism/idea

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hi all,

I was hoping to solicit advice re: my very tentative CIH masking mechanism...

Design parameters:
1. Needs to fit within 4-5 inches on either side of the screen. No room for solid panel masking
2. Needs to be AT masking.
3. Screen size at 2.4:1 is ~ 130 wide

General design idea:
1. continuous drive roller blinds mounted vertically with metal beaded chain
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70099639.

2. AT fabric loaded onto roller blind

3. horizontal metal track for leading edge curtain shuttle using single steel track for top and bottom with steel rollers
http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/Gr...are/showprod/1

4. Curtain shuttle/frame will be attached to rollers on top and bottom and will be fabricated from metal stock from HD or Lowes

5. Curtain frame will be attached to metal beaded chain for synchronous motion.

6. beaded chain will have tension at opposite end using a beaded chain sprocket.
http://www.raymortool.com/SprocketPa...pec%20Page.htm

Design concerns:

1. How do I ensure there is sufficient tension in AT mask fabric while retaining a continuous roller bind mechanism?

Thoughts on this very preliminary idea?

Thanks for the help!
post #2 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob53 View Post


1. How do I ensure there is sufficient tension in AT mask fabric while retaining a continuous roller bind mechanism?



Thanks for the help!

You can use constant tension springs but this is a very simple method.
Hope this helps.

Teecue
LL
post #3 of 13
Here's another source for roller shade components
AV-Outlet;

http://www.av-outlet.com/

They have Rollease AL tubes, Pesa pin-end spring assist, mounting brackets, clutch drive ends & Somfy tube motors.



John
post #4 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob53 View Post

1. How do I ensure there is sufficient tension in the AT masking fabric while retaining a continuous roller bind mechanism?

I've been trying to wrap my head around this sort of idea as well, and one thing I have considered is not using any type of spool for the fabric. If the fabric simply stores behind the screen, you can always have it under tension. Imagine it like a darkroom door, where the each masking panel is free, in theory at least, to circle all the way around the screen. You'd need two sets, one inside the other. Maybe the clearer analogy is wrapper, like a label on a can of beans, not glued down - then you cut a hole through about half of it for the screen to be visible through. Then the label can be spun to whatever position you like.

So, you lay out the panel between two of your rods and pull the rods in opposite directions to tension fabric, then you loop the loose ends around the whole screen and install a turnbuckle or some adjustable tensioner. The second panel will need to be slightly taller so that they can run on separate rollers/pulleys. With wide enough panels, you've got infinitely variable masking. My suggestion would be a nylon wrapped cable and some turnbuckles, like what ScottJ0007 used. But I think the way i envision it, you'll have no use for the spring. (I hope Scott doesn't mind my reposting his image.)

The only downsides I see are that there are more parts so it may cost a little more, and if the fabric is not really AT, you're always using it. Is that clearly described? I haven't tried to explain it before, and I don't have any diagrams.

Fred
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm starting to assemble the system now and I'll try and post photos at a later date.

Bob

I'm installing grommets into the AT screen tonight.
post #6 of 13
Bob,

Wondering how you masking project was going, any photos ?



John
post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hi John - sorry for the very delayed response. Between a wedding and an unanticipated remodel in our master bath due to water intrusion, the theater was on the back burner... I've just now begun efforts to complete the project. Here are some photos:

1. The original space (before we purchased the home)


2. The nook.


I removed the fireplace and "entertainment cabinet" and reframed the room and created a nook that could be used to place speakers behind a screen. In addition to the nook, I built a cabinet in the hallway (left side of image) for the AV components that is open in the back to the utility room. The screen support structure (the wood in the photo) was created from the select grade pine at Home Depot. My goals here were to create a system that could support a screen and surrounding screen wall while being compact and able to be removed in the event the home was ever sold.

3. The screen frame




The frame was created such that it could span the 12 feet without needing additional bracing to minimize the damage to the walls. The screen material (next photo) is attached to the frame via heavy duty rubber o-rings through grommet holes in the AT screen fabric. In addition, the design a 1x4 perpendicular to a 1x2 gave both rigidity and a channel for my CIH mechanism as the screen wall panels are 3/4" in front of the screen.

4. Screen

The screen material was purchased from SeymourAV and the grommet holes were DIY'ed. The rubber o rings were from McMaster and anchor to the frame via screws that serve as posts. The frame was designed accounting for the force exerted via the o-rings - thus slightly bowed at the bottom. With the screen in place, the free horizontal frame components are parallel and within 1/32 of an inch variance across the entire span - better than I had hoped for.

5. Screen wall

The screen wall attaches to the frame and covers the grommets and also provides a track space for the yet-to-be completed CIH mechanism.

This brings us to the present - still a few things to do:

1. vertical screen wall panels - these will be anchored to the upper and lower large screen wall panels (2 x 12) via magnets and will cover 5 inches on either side to create a 130 x 54 inch screen window.

2. Wall panels - I have cut wall panels out of OSB and will cover these with fabric. These will run along the side walls and come onto the screen wall 3-4 inches to cover the ends of the screen wall.

3. CIH mechanism - my current idea is as follows:
black AT material from SeymourAV will be loaded onto Ikea Turplur roller blinds mounted on either side of the screen (there is a small space specifically for this). The blinds will be attached to a sliding weight that will keep a constant tension on the system (thanks for the idea!). The AT fabric will be attached on the other end to a sliding frame that will use a small roller track to move within the channel space between the screen and screen wall. Spring-loaded detent stops will be created for the various screen dimensions. I initially wanted to have this automated but hand movement makes the system much simpler and, I think, less prone to failure. I can always add a Somfy motor or the like at a later point.
post #8 of 13
Bob53, how's your project going ?
post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob53 View Post




5. Screen wall

The screen wall attaches to the frame and covers the grommets and also provides a track space for the yet-to-be completed CIH mechanism.

The more I see images of this vertically centered layout, the more I like it.
I like the idea of the elastic chord tension system as well.
post #10 of 13
Updates?
post #11 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by adude View Post

Updates?

Yes please
post #12 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob53 View Post


.

I like your setup. But you must be hating the reflections on that right wall by now.
post #13 of 13
hello, very nice setup indeed! just wondering what the canned ceiling lighting behind the screen was used for. Also, wanted to know how the rubber o-ring tensioning system was holding up as far as screen integrity, any waving?
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