or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › T nuts vs Hurricane nuts vs Barbed insert nuts. Which nuts are for you??
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

T nuts vs Hurricane nuts vs Barbed insert nuts. Which nuts are for you??

post #1 of 105
Thread Starter 
Seriously tho .. Thoughts?



Hurricane nuts -- Seem to be the worst of the bunch imo. Just dont seem to have much grip

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=081-1082



T-Nuts--

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=081-1070



Barbed insert --

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=081-1094
post #2 of 105
barbed all the way man. good luck stripping/pushing one of those out.
post #3 of 105
I would use barbed or hurricane.

Just make sure you mount them in plywood rather than MDF if possible/feasible.

Also, glue them in with Gorilla glue or equivalent to help in prevention of spinning.
post #4 of 105
I've used the hurricane nuts with very good results. They have a lot more grip than it would seem.

For any of those, plywood works much better than MDF. I also use gorilla glue for a little insurance.
post #5 of 105
Thread Starter 
Well it seems from you guys and all the other buils ive been reading they ALL seem to work good for plywood which is a good thing.. Just didnt know if one was actually better.. AS far as MDF I would guess the T nuts would be best because of how soft it is ?
post #6 of 105
Just about anything will spin out of MDF.

Put a plywood ring or plywood blocks behind the mounting surface for the nuts.
post #7 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemer533 View Post

I've used the hurricane nuts with very good results. They have a lot more grip than it would seem.

For any of those, plywood works much better than MDF. I also use gorilla glue for a little insurance.



Yea and about that, I asked or "questioned " in another thread about Liquid nails.. LN seems to be the best Ive ever used, as it seems to dry faster with more flexibility while setting, and fully dries much quicker with a better hold.. Im assuming this would be ok to use instead of a glue?
post #8 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Just about anything will spin out of MDF.

Put a plywood ring or plywood blocks behind the mounting surface for the nuts.

Yea I always just made a speaker ring made out of ply in that situation that I actually used T nuts instead of drywall screws
post #9 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mj79 View Post

Yea and about that, I asked or "questioned " in another thread about Liquid nails.. LN seems to be the best Ive ever used, as it seems to dry faster with more flexibility while setting, and fully dries much quicker with a better hold.. Im assuming this would be ok to use instead of a glue?

Ya, liquid nails works well. I prefer Gorilla because it expands as it dries to grip into all the little voids in the wood.
post #10 of 105
Im telling you if you go with the barbed inserts you dont need extra insurance unless you drill the hole they go in too large which would then be your fault. Not many use them around here not sure why maybe because they cost a few extra pesos? Id challenge anyone to install a barbed insert properly and try to push or strip it out. Its a really tough thing to do and wont happen under normal conditions. But yes liquid nails would work as well so would the PL your already using for the build.
post #11 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

Im telling you if you go with the barbed inserts you dont need extra insurance unless you drill the hole they go in too large which would then be your fault. Not many use them around here not sure why maybe because they cost a few extra pesos? Id challenge anyone to install a barbed insert properly and try to push or strip it out. Its a really tough thing to do and wont happen under normal conditions. But yes liquid nails would work as well so would the PL your already using for the build.

Thanks guys, just wanted to see what everyone thought.. Off to The Depot tomorrow to get a few things there and to check out the wonderful selection of Arouco ply.. Im really tempted to buy 1 sheet of BB just to finish off piece 5 and 10... But its painfull to swallow $60 for 3/4 of a sheet

So just gonna run down a list to make sure i get the right stuff at HD since a few things are coming from PE

HD list


drywall screws ( fine or coarse thread? )
PL / LN
Dap silicone incase there are any leak issues with the driver
clamps clamps clamps
crappy plywood

Parts express list


Speaker terminal
1/8 x 1/2 Gasketing tape
Allen head screws ( 10-32 )
washers / lock washers ( 10-32 )

anything else
post #12 of 105
I prefer Deez Nuts
post #13 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Supply View Post

I prefer Deez Nuts

fully stocked there brotha
post #14 of 105
I dont think parts express has allen head screws, washers, or lock washers. You can get those from lowes. And i reccomend some 1.25" auto body screws with washers attatched for securing the access panel. Or you could use more allen screws and inserts or drywall screws but i wouldnt reccomend that route. Go for course on the screws. And dont forget the barbed inserts from PE *nudge*nudge* lol.
post #15 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

I dont think parts express has allen head screws, washers, or lock washers. You can get those from lowes. And i reccomend some 1.25" auto body screws with washers attatched for securing the access panel. Or you could use more allen screws and inserts or drywall screws but i wouldnt reccomend that route. Go for course on the screws. And dont forget the barbed inserts from PE *nudge*nudge* lol.

Already in the cart man... mynym, A member on here suggested i use these


Almost at the bottom of the page they are the 10-32s 1 1/2 inch , 20 of em for $2.30

http://www.microfasteners.com/catalo...cts/SSCSCA.cfm
post #16 of 105
Clean the huricane nuts with a solvent to remove residual machining oil and put Gorilla glue on the flange.
post #17 of 105
Mynym's the man. Thats where i orded my screws from and just picked up washers locally.
post #18 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by reecew View Post

Mynym's the man. Thats where i orded my screws from and just picked up washers locally.

Ahhhhhhh i see how it is.. You already had screws from that place and didnt provide a link huh??? Trying to keep the goods all to yourself i see





But yea you cant go wrong with those it seems, 2.30 for 20? when they were $1 PER screw at the depot when I checked.. 1 1/2 10-32 right ?
post #19 of 105
Yea thats right im stingy lol. And correct size as well.
post #20 of 105
Thread Starter 
anyone have any parts express coupon codes?

Order is $150 And usually I see $5 off coupons but cant find them now
post #21 of 105
I think I'm a little late for this party, but here's my two cents.

A threaded insert with a flange at one end is best, because it is nearly impossible to pull the insert through the board.
I say "nearly" impossible, because I can only imagine one way, and that is to wayyy oversize the hole.

If you're working with plywood, barbed is definitely the better choice.
The barbs dig in and hold it in place while you are working with it.
Just be sure to get the hole size right.

There is a type of threaded insert which is also threaded on the outside of its body, using a coarser threading than the inside part which accepts the bolt, so there is no tendency for it to spin while inserting or removing the bolt.

That type of insert is not recommended for plywood, as the act of threading it into the hole in the plywood will seperate the individual plys.
These are useful in solid wood projects and maybe MDF, but not plywood.
post #22 of 105
Most of the woodworkers i've spoken with regarding using fasteners or inserts (t-nuts, hurricanes, etc) suggest going with the threaded inserts, especially when using ply or mdf.

post #23 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin A View Post

Most of the woodworkers i've spoken with regarding using fasteners or inserts (t-nuts, hurricanes, etc) suggest going with the threaded inserts, especially when using ply or mdf.


True, the exterior-threaded insert will have better holding power--less likely to get ripped out due to over-torquing of the bolt threaded into it.
That advantage goes away if the insert has a flange at one end--you are not likely to rip a flanged insert loose by over-torquing.

The exterior-threaded insert, while favored among experienced woodworkers, is not one that I personally would recommend to less-seasoned wood-working veterans, who intend to use them in plywood, due to the increased likelihood of ply separation.

So, yes you can use them in plywood.
Maybe you will have no problems the first time and every time you use them.
But then again, you may get to see de-lamination of the plys.

My answer was based on actually threading the insert into the proper sized hole. Adding some adhesive can further strengthen the grip.
But, I realized that your picture shows over-boring the exterior-threaded insert hole, and back-filling it with epoxy, so the threads do not cut into the wood, and no de-lamination will take place. But, that defeats the purpose of the exterior threads. I see no obvious advantage in using either one of these two inserts over the other as shown in the picture you provided.
post #24 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mj79 View Post

Thanks guys, just wanted to see what everyone thought.. Off to The Depot tomorrow to get a few things there and to check out the wonderful selection of Arouco ply.. Im really tempted to buy 1 sheet of BB just to finish off piece 5 and 10... But its painfull to swallow $60 for 3/4 of a sheet

So just gonna run down a list to make sure i get the right stuff at HD since a few things are coming from PE

HD list


drywall screws ( fine or coarse thread? )
PL / LN
Dap silicone incase there are any leak issues with the driver
clamps clamps clamps
crappy plywood

Parts express list


Speaker terminal
1/8 x 1/2 Gasketing tape
Allen head screws ( 10-32 )
washers / lock washers ( 10-32 )

anything else

If you have a Harbor Freight close, get your clamps from there. They are decent and significantly cheaper than HD/Lowes.

I don't believe HD sells AraucoPly but Lowes does in some areas of the US. If they don't, Menards sell AraucoPly. Thats where I ended up getting mine. Don't buy the crapola plywood at HD.
post #25 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

If you have a Harbor Freight close, get your clamps from there. They are decent and significantly cheaper than HD/Lowes.

I don't believe HD sells AraucoPly but Lowes does in some areas of the US. If they don't, Menards sell AraucoPly. Thats where I ended up getting mine. Don't buy the crapola plywood at HD.



your 1 post away from 1000.. Postwh0re


Yea HD sucks for ply, ( up here anyways ) And menards had nothing but bowed warped garbage.. they are getting more this weekend i guess.. . Which works out Because it gave me time to install the Tankless water heater in my garage for the slab heat so it will be nice a toasty for the build . I cant wait, this is taking too long

Also , we JUST got a HF up here and Ill hit that up this weekend too when im up at menards.. Sub and gasketing tape will be here friday, so Ill do a little free air testing with the amp in my car when that gets here.. COuldnt order the Tnuts, amp and a few other things cuz I didnt have my credit card.. The PE bill was $156.24.. I had $156.37 in my PP acct
post #26 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest View Post

My answer was based on actually threading the insert into the proper sized hole. Adding some adhesive can further strengthen the grip. But, I realized that your picture shows over-boring the exterior-threaded insert hole, and back-filling it with epoxy, so the threads do not cut into the wood, and no de-lamination will take place. But, that defeats the purpose of the exterior threads. I see no obvious advantage in using either one of these two inserts over the other as shown in the picture you provided.

I'm actually going to use the t-nuts () on my build with the hi-strength 5-minute epoxy to secure them. I considered the threaded inserts, but as you stated, over-torqueing & possible ply separation can cause additional issues especially those of use not so gifted nor experienced in wood-working ()
post #27 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

....... Don't buy the crapola plywood at HD.

+ eleventy bazillion

Seriously - do not skimp on the ply when building something that matters.

I saw Arauco ply for the first time out here at a Home Depot of all places, but it was 3/4", and it was gone by the time I came back to buy some later in the week.
post #28 of 105
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

+ eleventy bazillion

Seriously - do not skimp on the ply when building something that matters.

I saw Arauco ply for the first time out here at a Home Depot of all places, but it was 3/4", and it was gone by the time I came back to buy some later in the week.

Well at menards All lumber is out in the brand new warehouse.. You think the guys at the gate would notice the difference between arouco and BB?
post #29 of 105
Thread Starter 
Alright Few questions now about mouting the driver... I had 1 on the allen drive bolt that everyone seems to be using on the THT ( size 10-32 ) BUT I tried a 1/4" instead and it seems to fit much better. Its a little snug but it threads right injust fine.. Is this ok to use? Because the 10-32 is really loose in there.. I am also ordering the barbed inserts Now when you get the inserts in, then mount the driver, do you put any washers on the bolt at all ?
post #30 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mj79 View Post

Alright Few questions now about mouting the driver... I had 1 on the allen drive bolt that everyone seems to be using on the THT ( size 10-32 ) BUT I tried a 1/4" instead and it seems to fit much better. Its a little snug but it threads right injust fine.. Is this ok to use? Because the 10-32 is really loose in there.. I am also ordering the barbed inserts Now when you get the inserts in, then mount the driver, do you put any washers on the bolt at all ?

Nothing wrong with the snug fit of the 1/4", as long as you test mount all bolts in advance, to verify that you won't have any trouble later during assembly.
The looser fit of the 10-32s just allows a little wiggle room in case one or more holes don't quite line up just right.

I used 1/4".

Definitely use a lock and a flat washer on your bolt.
Also, apply a small amount of caulk or adhesive around the flange of the insert, to insure an airtight seal, but be careful to keep it out of the inner threads.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › T nuts vs Hurricane nuts vs Barbed insert nuts. Which nuts are for you??