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T nuts vs Hurricane nuts vs Barbed insert nuts. Which nuts are for you?? - Page 4

post #91 of 105
Chris, I used the silver ones 1/4 x 20 screw in this picture, which I got from home depot, and they worked excellent and were relatively cheap.


I liked that they went into the hole nice and straight, with a allen wrench on a rachet.....

The hardware store by me had the brass ones pictured below and I didn't get them, using a flat head to install them just seemed to me to be a pain in the butt....




post #92 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Health Nut View Post

I just wanted to mark this thread so that I can come back to it sometime within a week. I don't have time to read through it now but need to make a decision on threaded inserts vs whatever options are out there... I'm going to have a ton of LMS Ultra 18" 'ers showing up sometime next week...

Pick up a package of those anchors I posted about and try them out on some scrap.

You will probably thank me when you see how easy they are to use. Mounting the LMS can be a challenge under perfect conditions.
post #93 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Pick up a package of those anchors I posted about and try them out on some scrap.

You will probably thank me when you see how easy they are to use. Mounting the LMS can be a challenge under perfect conditions.


I can vouch for that!
post #94 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv View Post

Chris, I used the silver ones 1/4 x 20 screw in this picture, which I got from home depot, and they worked excellent and were relatively cheap.

I liked that they went into the hole nice and straight, with a allen wrench on a rachet.....

I've been wanting to give these a try. Any issues with galling?
post #95 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikela View Post

I've been wanting to give these a try. Any issues with galling?


Are you talking about the brass ones I said I DIDN'T use or the other picture that I did use.... ?
post #96 of 105
Oops operator error...I meant the silver ones you mentioned that thread in.
post #97 of 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikela View Post

Oops operator error...I meant the silver ones you mentioned that thread in.


No worries, the ones I used were absolutely simple - the blades that carve into the wood are very fine and track perfectly as well as being easy to turn in.... I found no issues with it "galling" up the wood at all and stayed locked right in place after torquing the LMS's down.
post #98 of 105
Any issues with the internal threads? T-nuts are notorious for locking up on the bolt.
post #99 of 105
Not for me, I got Stainless screws and they were in and out tightened to torque a number of times with no issues at all...
post #100 of 105
Sorry to bump such an old thread, but I am intrigued by the possibility of using the E-Z ancor stud solvers posted by jpmst3 in this thread.

I have a question for anybody who has used the E-Z ancors. Has anybody had a problem with the sealing of their subs when using them? I say this because it looks like there's a possibility they might tend to not sit completely flush with the surface of the material to which they are installed. I'm thinking of a sonosub for which the driver mounting surface portion of the end cap is MDF and whose internal end cap layers are plywood. Is there some special trick to get them flush with the surface, or will they do so naturally with the right amount of torque on installation? I did look on their web site and they recommend a 1/4" pilot hole for installing into dense wood.
post #101 of 105
You can make them flush or not, that is up to you. They are simply a large screw that you tighten to the level you want.
I always make mine flush or very nearly . There are no issues with sealing, anymore than any other mechanical fastener.
If you are concerned for any reason you can always use silicon in and around the anchors since gluing them in is not needed like most other solutions.

In MDF and all wood you would want a pilot hole just any other fastener.
post #102 of 105
Any need for, say, a shallow countersink in preparation, or is there enough compression at the surface to seat them flush without it? I was worried (maybe unnecessarily) that they might tend to stick up, and if they made a bump, it might make a small air gap in the area around the driver mounting screw. My drivers have rather thin gaskets.

I am a very inexperienced woodworker, so I'm just trying to prevent myself from doing something stupid.
post #103 of 105
Test them out first on a piece of scrap made of the same material your going to use.

I tried these on 13 ply Baltic birch and the heads snapped off before I could get it flush. That's with a 1/4" pilot hole.
post #104 of 105
Yes , test a couple on scrap wood.
If they are not super cheap junk anchors you will have little trouble. If they are junk, they may deform and need larger pilot holes.

There are usually plenty in a pack so why not try a couple extras out for experimentation?
post #105 of 105
Yes, I'll do that. Thanks.
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