WIRING AND SPEAKER REPLACEMENT
Wow i'm sore. I started on this friday afternoon, mostly mounting the distrubution blocks to the back of the box, mounting the cleansweep, and wiring between the two amps. Saturday I pulled the center console apart, pulled the rear seat, pulled the side and kick panels, mounted the fuse under the hood and ran the power and connected the ground wire, cut the stock HU wiring connectors and began soldering and running my signal wires to the cleansweep. This took quite a bit longer than I thought. I worked (by myself) from about 11AM till about 7PM on this. Then today (Sunday from about 10AM-4PM) I finished running the signal wires, ran the speaker wires from the amps up to the front speakers, pulled the doors apart and replaced the 6.5's and dynamated them, ran the RCA's and control knobs, and finally I put the seats and all plastic pieces and center console back together. Still to do is to replace the tweeters, connect the rear speakers, and dial in the amps to appropriate levels and set the crossovers. Right now, I believe I have the sub crossed at 150Hz and the full range speakers crossed at 80Hz I think. I think I want to adjust this just a bit to cut off a little more bass to the fullrange speakers to prevent distortion at high volumes. Generally I wouldnt cross the door speakers so high but the 10" is really tight, does a really good job at reproducing the higher bass frequencies (100+ Hz), and is quite accurate. When set to the appropriate level, it blends seamlessly. A few times, I actually had to turn it completely down just to make sure that it was actually the sub producing the low end and not the door speakers! So far the system sounds great. I've had to turn the treble up to about +4 to keep up with the replaced 6.5's but I think this will change once I replace the tweeters. lol I will post more opinions and information once i've replaced the tweeters, dial everything in, and let it all break in a bit. I also need to make a piece for the sub box that spans the width for the front to prop it up just a bit. Unfortunatly, the back of the trunk sloped down a bit so the sub faces down a bit as well. Also, there is a slight bit of pressure on the RCA's of one of the amps so a carpeted 'prop' will solve both of those problems. Right now i've got it temporarily propped so the RCA's are unharmed.
Here are a few random pictures that I took during the install. I was going to take more but I started to run short on time and didnt take as many as i'd originally planned. Each pic is captioned:
Under the wheel well where the fuse is bolted:
Power wire location inside the car that I found easily accessible and passed through the firewall.
Power wire under the hood.
Pulling apart the center console:
Center console pulled apart. Stereo connector on the left, Climate controls on the right.
Stereo plug cut. I twisted the speaker pairs (+ & -) to prevent noise.
New speaker wire connected to output of stereo. These go directly to the cleansweep in the trunk. These are soldered and heat shrunk. I tried to heat shrink in-line but the stuff kept shrinking before I could get the wire soldered. Its on there good though
Removing the rear seat. There are spring loaded tabs that hold the seat in directly under each 'bucket' between the seat and the floor. You just push the seat down, pull the tab and then pull the seat up. Do this to both sides. There is also a bolt that holds the seat in marked in the picture.
Signal and speaker wires run down the passenger side. I ran the power and remote wire down the driver side to avoid noise and interference (not shown)
Driver door pulled apart
The stock speakers that come out of the door. Yes, that IS a "magnet".
Replaced passenger door speaker with dynamat. No spacer needed and easy install.
Box in the trunk ready to be wired
I've replaced the tweeters a few days ago and am just now getting around to writing up the review and getting the pics uploaded. I'll start off by saying that anyone that has decided to only replace the 6.5" mid/woofers in the doors is seriously missing out on a lot of detail and clarity in the higher frequencies. I replaced one tweeter at a time and between each, I turned on the stereo and balanced left and right to hear what kind of difference there was. The stock tweeter/high-pass filter was clearly lacking detail and clarity. The difference was night and day, just as big as the change in the 6.5's if not more. There are two reasons for this and I will explain.
First, here are the pictures of the stock tweeters AND the high-pass filters.
The first problem is that the tweeter is only rated at 15W (printed on the back) and appears to be made of poor materials which partly contributes to the lack of clarity and detail. The second problem lies within the poor high-pass filter for the tweeter. If you look next to the connector in the last picture, to the right is a small capacitor. This is the "in-line" crossover/filter that i've seen asked about in several different posts throughout this forum.
I was curious as to what the cutoff frequency to the tweeter was... so I made a few measurements and calculations. I first measured the Impedance of the tweeter at 3.8Ω. I then measured the capacitance of the capacitor that is being used as the high-pass filter at 3.48µF (Used Fluke 87 Multimeter). The cutoff frequency of a RC High-Pass filter is: 1/(2π*R*C) so for the filter that comes attached to the stock tweeter:
1/(2*π*3.8*3.48*10^-6)= ~12kHz. The Cuttoff frequency is 12kHz.
WHAT?!?!? Your average 6.5" woofer will only have a response that extends to 6-7kHz. This means there is a large notch in the frequency response of a stereo with this tweeter configuration from 7kHz-12kHz. That is a LOT of information that is being completely discarded (or at least highly attenuated). I would also like to note that there is no low-pass filter on the stock woofer that prevents high frequencies from being passed to it.
Here is where I decided to place the JL Cleansweep Master Volume knob (which I keep set and use the factory volume) and also my Attenuator for the subwoofer... basically the volume knob for the sub.
I drilled a small hole in the back of the storage compartment to pass the wires through but I decided to use velcro for holding the knobs in place. I was going to make a nice plate and paint it black to match and just have the knobs poke through, but I decided to go with the velcro so I wouldn't have to drill more and when I sell the car, I can just pull them off with no evidence. They are perfectly within arms reach and are concealable with the compartment door.MEASUREMENTS:
Subwoofer response with no subwoofer EQ or dynamat/treatments: