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ATI HD 5000 Series Known Problems (5870 5850 5770 5750 5670 5570 5450) - Page 90

post #2671 of 2705
Anyone know if the "green push" issue applies to the 6000 series as well? E.g. The 6750.
post #2672 of 2705
I just got a Sapphire 11168-02-20R HD 5670 512MB GDDR5 and installed it on a fresh Window 7 Home Premium installation, and I keep getting these graphic glitches. It seem like if the graphic card is powering down, and needs to warm up, the graphic glitch seem to disappear after a while, especially in games after I get past the main menu.

This is some examples of what it looks like, its like small boxes that just flicking around the screen and sticking around sometimes.





Also this is my hardware at the moment:
Windows 7 64 bit Service Pack 1
Intel Core i7-2600K, 3.40GHz
8 GB DDR3
Sapphire 11168-02-20R HD 5670 512MB GDDR5

Installed the newest ATI drivers found on the website (11-12_vista64_win7_64_dd_ccc_ocl.exe)

Any ideas what I need to do to fix it?
post #2673 of 2705
@McGreed that usually points to the card is ready to go bad. I had an 8800GTS go bad and that's how it began. Of course with troubleshooting PC's it could be a multitude of things from: faulty DVI/HDMI cable, faulty memory on the card or overheating, issues with the PSU, issues with the monitor, etc.

Usually you have to try to use a different graphics card and see if the problem persists. Or have someone troubleshoot it for you.
post #2674 of 2705
Hm, I really hope it isn't because my card is already going bad, as its not more then two weeks old. Also, I was running windows 7, 32 bit before without any problems, any chance its the windows version/drivers that might not be great?

Either way I guess I need to check with my old ATI card and see how that one works. Will do it some time tomorrow I think. Cheers, will report back what I find out.
post #2675 of 2705
Thread Starter 
Try switching cables first, cause it's the easier test. How long are they?
post #2676 of 2705
They are the same as always, haven't changed them from when I upgraded my computer, so I doubt they are the problem.
Also, I just did a test with Aero, which someone suggested, by disabling it, and it seem to have solved the glitchy and corrupted graphic problem. Haven't seen anything so far, so maybe its something to do with how Aero is done?
post #2677 of 2705
@McGreed

If it's only two weeks old, I would return it for an exchange. That blocking is most commonly associated with memory. It's typically witnessed among users overclocking their video card memory as it approaches the memories' limit. This is referred to as artifacting. Although memory artifacting is more frequently observed in 3d, the stickiness of your blocks suggest a ram issue (& I've seen 2d artifacting associated with memory corruption in the course of overclocking my video cards memory).

Google "ram artifacts" for various examples.

The fact that the blocking disappears with Aero disabled doesn't eliminate the possibility that it is faulty ram. It merely suggests that when stressed less in 2d, the ram shows signs of the failure less frequently (b/c Aero, far from stressing a graphics card generally, is still more stressing to the video card than with Aero disabled).

As you've already suggested, definitely test your PC with the older ATI card with Aero enabled. If the old card doesn't exhibit the blocks, exchange the new card while you can. If the problem remains, then it's likely not the video card and you should uninstall the video card drivers, do a video card driver wipe, e.g. using Drive Sweeper, and reinstall.
post #2678 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by 703 View Post

Anyone know if the "green push" issue applies to the 6000 series as well? E.g. The 6750.

Dude it's simply Chroma subsampling and isn't a "green push" nor an issue with ATI.

Your TV needs to support 4:4:4 chroma for windows to look properly.

PERIOD

PS even a conversion LUT will yield Chroma artifacts
post #2679 of 2705
Those people with issues.

1. Install directX web installer <-- I find it shocking how many people HTPC I walk upto haven't updated their DX libraries and they assume windows is boxed with the latest. Heck windows isn't even box with DX libraries below 11 at this point!
2. uninstall your video drivers <-- be sure to use the manual uninstall and don't remove chipset drivers in the process if your using AMD platform.
3. use driversweeper to cleanout old cat stuff
4. be sure to power cycle between those steps
5. INSTALL YOUR MOTHERBOARD CHIPSET DRIVERS! <-- this part is really critical and needs to be done FIRST before installing any hardware device if you want the hardware resources to be allocated properly.
6. Install video drivers

Intel chipset drivers download

http://downloadcenter.intel.com/conf...ProductID=3450

AMD chipset drivers download

http://www2.ati.com/drivers/12-1_vis...7_32-64_sb.exe

Those are both updated and I bet 99% of you don't have the latest chipset drivers. This can have an affect specifically on Intel platforms as they have been working on the memory controller driver, Intel firmware hub device and Intel MEI.
post #2680 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwlonsdale View Post

My issue with HD channels via satellite still isn't fixed, even with latest 11.10. The latest drivers have been the worst of the lot, they actually managed to bluescreen during install.

I opened a second case with AMD about it. They told me the first time around it would be fixed in the 11.9 release and it wasn't. So in the second case I pointed them at their response saying it would be fixed by then and I got some snarky mail back from them saying (direct quote): "There is no way to confirm what will be fixed in a driver release before it is posted."

So apparently they haven't got a clue what they fix in their drivers until they release them and we get to try them out for them. Which is nice.

How do you go about installing drivers? Do you install them OVER TOP the old ones?
post #2681 of 2705
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solid-State View Post

Dude it's simply Chroma subsampling and isn't a "green push" nor an issue with ATI.

Your TV needs to support 4:4:4 chroma for windows to look properly.

PERIOD

PS even a conversion LUT will yield Chroma artifacts

That's not what he's asking about.
post #2682 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by 703 View Post

Anyone know if the "green push" issue applies to the 6000 series as well? E.g. The 6750.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

That's not what he's asking about.

Owwh sorry for being assumptive. I guess they'd then call that "purple push"...

GIGGLE

uhh...

What's this green push he's talking about?
post #2683 of 2705
Thread Starter 
See here. I don't know if it was solved with either 6000 or 7000 cards, FWIW. I'm planning on getting a 7000 card, and hopefully will remember to test for it, but it's not until a few months in the future.

BTW, a lot of info is outdated. If your TV can get a proper RGB full input, then that's what's advisable, especially when madVR right now has become a great deal more usable since then. I don't think YCbCr should be used with these cards if you can avoid it.
post #2684 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

That's not what he's asking about.

I think we are misunderstanding the difference between chroma subsampling and "black level" and the what the results of a mismatch between display and output looks like. What he is describing is chroma mismatch or conversion LUT so no... that is what he's asking about.

IMHO any display that can't do 4:4:4 0-255 and offer the ability to defeat internal scaler/overscan to provide 1:1 pixel mapping is a trash bin item. Especially for HTPC use.
post #2685 of 2705
McGreed I can help you but I need a lot more info.

Include all details about your system and display device.
post #2686 of 2705
I've never had an issue...

That suggests/symptom they didn't install their chipset drivers PROPERLY prior to installing the video adapter drivers thus bitching ACPI/DMI/SMBUS/WMI power management controls with the video adapter.

And if there was a legit issue with the 4000 cards than I'm most certain a BIOS update was released for the card.

Download BIOS for your HD 4000 card with power management issues here

http://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/

The HD 4850 had issues but as you can see venders released fixed BIOS

http://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/i...ace=&memSize=0

Same goes for the HD 4870 but again ATI/AMD released fixed base BIOS code and released to venders.

There were also video playback issues with those older BIOS on HD 4000.

I generally purchase Gigabyte video adapters because they are EXCELLENT at providing video chipset vender BIOS updates for their video adapters. A lot of venders won't even post and you have to liaison via email with a tech to get them to give you the bin file and direct you how to do it. This is because users brick boards trying to flash them ALL THE TIME.

techPowerUp is a fantastic site with reviews and info from people that really know what they are talking about. It's the defacto place for PSU reviews.

If you really want to get into tweaking your ATI video adapter they have wrote a very very nice BIOS editor for ATI video adapters.

http://www.techpowerup.com/rbe/

Tutorial on it's use.

http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/...ng/vidcard/154
post #2687 of 2705
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solid-State View Post

I think we are misunderstanding the difference between chroma subsampling and "black level" and the what the results of a mismatch between display and output looks like. What he is describing is chroma mismatch or conversion LUT so no... that is what he's asking about.

He's describing the "green push" which has been referred to extensively in this and the other 5000 thread as the problem I linked to, and it's well known. He's not saying everything looks green or magenta. Chroma mismatch is too obvious to be just a "push", and it's not a problem at all, just a wrong setting.
post #2688 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

He's describing the "green push" which has been referred to extensively in this and the other 5000 thread as the problem I linked to, and it's well known. He's not saying everything looks green or magenta. Chroma mismatch is too obvious to be just a "push", and it's not a problem at all, just a wrong setting.

Yeah and the wrong setting is the chroma subsampling like I said. He needs to set it to 4:4:4 in the video adapter. Also the TV might need a specific setting to make it accept 4:4:4
post #2689 of 2705
Thread Starter 
I'm not sure that you read about the known problem I linked to, and subsequent discussion. It's not very long. There are examples. If you saw the examples and the graphs by sotti, you'll realize it is not what you say. The TL;DR version: When you set YCbCr 4:4:4 on both the card and the TV, you get seemingly good colors, but on close inspection, there is a greenish tinge noticeable in the dark areas. This is not a settings issue, and it's the issue we've been referring to as "green push" for years now.
post #2690 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

I'm not sure that you read about the known problem I linked to, and subsequent discussion. It's not very long. There are examples. If you saw the examples and the graphs by sotti, you'll realize it is not what you say. The TL;DR version: When you set YCbCr 4:4:4 on both the card and the TV, you get seemingly good colors, but on close inspection, there is a greenish tinge noticeable in the dark areas. This is not a settings issue, and it's the issue we've been referring to as "green push" for years now.

Then set it to RGB 4:4:4 "full" 0-255. I'd love to learn about this please share URLs and threads if you have the time and patience.
post #2691 of 2705
I've never noticed any green tinge/push with my 5670 .... but will look for it. This is on a calibrated PF11 UK
post #2692 of 2705
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solid-State View Post

Then set it to RGB 4:4:4 "full" 0-255. I'd love to learn about this please share URLs and threads if you have the time and patience.

I linked to it in one of my replies above. It's in the first post of this thread, problem #7. There are links there that lead to pictures and exchanges.

Quote:


- Pixel Format YCbCr yields a greenish cast especially in the darker areas. This affects everything except video in the protected video path (PVP) such as bluray in the commercial bluray players (when playing from disc or ISO). For PVP video, it seems YCbCr is being output without conversion to RGB first, so there's no green cast. See the measurement graphs sotti posted in this thread, and here for a more visual representation of the problem.
post #2693 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solid-State View Post

Yeah and the wrong setting is the chroma subsampling like I said. He needs to set it to 4:4:4 in the video adapter. Also the TV might need a specific setting to make it accept 4:4:4

I'm pretty much willing to bet that scotti has some notion of what he's doing when it comes to calibration.

(Hint: read his sig.)
post #2694 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

I linked to it in one of my replies above. It's in the first post of this thread, problem #7. There are links there that lead to pictures and exchanges.

Huh those tests of Scottis definitely show a problem I'm curious if the colour processing inside the CCC is disabled. The boxed defaults are to enable it for both desktop GDI and EVR/DXVA etc.

Is it as simple as they missed turning off those features in the driver?

I also wonder if ITC processing is enabled as well as EDID gamma. I wonder if ITC could cause the "green push".

Curious if by using the desktop colour options he was able to calibrate it.
post #2695 of 2705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

I linked to it in one of my replies above. It's in the first post of this thread, problem #7. There are links there that lead to pictures and exchanges.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

The difference is PVP.

Disc mode is copy protection mode aka PVP mode.

File mode is just EVR.


With PVP they keep the contents of the disc encrypted in a seperate part of GPU memory.

As far as YCC goes, everything with PVP is okay, everything without PVP is fubar.

In RGB mode, everything with PVP has it's levels wrong, everything without PVP is correct.

So either mode you're screwed, unless you want to give up watching movies in disc mode, wich is sort of a non-start for the wife.
Hell even for me, if I have to get my keyboard or mouse I feel like I've failed on the HTPC front.

I'm curious Scotti if you find these same issues with HD59xx and HD6xxx using drivers based on Catalyst 11 and 12. Have you contacted AMD about it? I'm most certain they would love technical input from an expert such as yourself!

I'm also curious if you had ITC turned on or off in CCC.

PS I have HD5950 and I don't seem to be experiencing the "green push". I notice my model isn't mentioned in the thread title. Does it affect HD5950 as well?
post #2696 of 2705
I'd like to share this post I made in another forum that I believe is linked to a lot of ATI/AMD issues.

http://www.sevenforums.com/general-d...oot-cimv2.html

1. run http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9775756
2. reboot
3. open command prompt with admin rights and navigate to system32
4. type "lodctr /r" into the command prompt and let it finish before closing
5. reboot
6. Enter CCC and turn off "hotkeys manager"
7. Enter services and set "AMD External Events Utility" to manual
8. reboot

BTW EVERY Windows 7 machine that has SP1 on it should apply that hotfix as it affects ALL MACHINES!

PS the seventh step isn't really necessary anymore with the latest 11 and 12 versions of Catalyst.

PSS Don't blame AMD... blame M$!
post #2697 of 2705
Hello!

Did you ever find a resolution?

Thanks in advance!
post #2698 of 2705
Thread Starter 
Resolution for what? The "green push"? Not that I know of, but I don't think people have tried. One shouldn't run YCbCr output anyway, unless absolutely necessary. I don't even use anything other than MPC-HC with madVR nowadays, anyway.
post #2699 of 2705
I have the 5870. Should I run the HDMI out of this to my TV and if so should I get Standard or High Speed for a 30 ft run? I was maybe looking at 26 AWG cable.

Not sure if my motherboard has HDMI out but I would assume I would use the video card.
post #2700 of 2705
Thread Starter 
There is no reason to get "standard" when High-speed are the same prices, or still very cheap.
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