or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official InFocus Sp8602 owners thread.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official InFocus Sp8602 owners thread. - Page 50

post #1471 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by hehateme View Post

I was reading the review of SP8602 on projectorreview.com and it mentioned something about projector having unusual shift. I want to ceiling mount the projector. My ceiling after dry wall is 107 inch high. I do have tray ceiling and soffits. However I have a break in the soffit where the projector will be mounted so the projector will be mounted directly in the ceiling.

My screen size is 130 inches wide 2.35 Seymour AT screen. It is 55 inches high with 3 inch border around each side. Room is 22 feet long.

Projector central calculator tells me I should mount the projector at 19.7 feet. Since the projector is 21 inches deep I cannot mount the projector in such a way that its lens will be 19. feet from the screen. This will make the projector too close to the rear wall.
Is it OK for me to mount the projector at 18 feet from the screen?

My bigger question is about the ceiling mounting. I know that I have to invert the projector. Do I have to keep the projector above my screen? Most projectors can be mounted between the top and bottom of the screen. Projectorreviews.com is implying that this cannot be done for SP8602. They are saying the projector has to be either above the screen or below the screen so I will have to use shift and lose brightness.

Finally where are the vents located? Are they on the sides?

I have narrowed my choices down to Benq W6000 and SP8602. BenQ W6000 is on sale right now and it will be half the price of SP8602. I will appreciate a quick response so I can determine if the projector will work for me.

You have play in front or behind to mount it, your throw range is 16' to 24' to fill that size so your fine. For example I have a 106" screen 16x9 screen and my optimum placement is 14', but I have mine more like 15.5'. Works fine I just loose a few lumens.

The offset is different though. The lowest you can go from the ceiling is the top of the screen. With your ceiling height and the 2.35 screen it should work but you'll need to measure it. In my setup the bottom of the screen is 23" from the floor and the screen area starts at 27". My PJ lens is centered 29" from the floor. I have to tilt it down which adds a little keystoning to make it work. Ideally the lens should be centered 18" to 27" from the bottom of the floor.

There are vents on the sides, none on the top and I haven't looked at the bottom.
post #1472 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post

Yes it's still too loud. The lamp is in eco mode and the CW over powers the sound of the fan. Maybe in normal the fan would mask it along with the movie soundtrack, but that's a lot of noise.

Bummer. Is it loud when it is in eco on 4X wheel speed? Have you had many other PJs to compare it too?

My Pioneer FPJ1 is quiet as heck on eco, but on high bulb I can hear it a bit -- still not bad.
post #1473 of 1992
I'm just checking in. So far so good on my end. My wife LOVE the new projector so much that she's the one telling me that we should drop by the big box store before we go out for dinner on Saturdays

I was able to catch the third period of the Stanly Cup final and WOW what a punchy sharp image! It's going to be hard to box this projector up once we move to our new house Though I did talk my wife into a bigger screen so...

I'm glad I jumped on this when it was on special. I still haven't done the update to the latest FW since it's running great. The cables are still sitting in the monoprice packaging.
post #1474 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMAGDNIM View Post

I'm just checking in. So far so good on my end. My wife LOVE the new projector so much that she's the one telling me that we should drop by the big box store before we go out for dinner on Saturdays

I was able to catch the third period of the Stanly Cup final and WOW what a punchy sharp image! It's going to be hard to box this projector up once we move to our new house Though I did talk my wife into a bigger screen so...

I'm glad I jumped on this when it was on special. I still haven't done the update to the latest FW since it's running great. The cables are still sitting in the monoprice packaging.

Any chance you're in Saskatoon and I can come by for a demo?
post #1475 of 1992
OK fellows after hours of fiddling, I retract my negative comments about the Iris pumping.

What I've discovered is, there are several key settings that minimize this to a point it is a non-issue.

First you need to make sure your video output device feeding the SP8602 is set to 16-235 limited RGB.

2) Projector color space is RGB Video
3) Gamma is set to Video
4) Color gamut is REC709 or Maximum
5) Turn off Dynamic Iris
6) Use the basic calibration videos found on the AVS HD 709 thread for Brightness and Contrast http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
7) Or if connected to an HTPC with the Media Center, use Windows Media Center basic calibration for Brightness and Contrast in the video settings section.
8) If using MPC-HC or some other form of Video playback software the limited studio RGB 16-235 should be used. If not, it will crush the blacks confusing the SP8602's Iris software.
9) Turn dynamic Iris back on when complete
10) Watch your favorite movies again and look for Iris pumping.

If the video output device(Graphics card or Blu ray player) color space is set to anything other than 16-235 RGB limited studio, it throws off all of the other settings listed above.
Sending the Full RGB 0-255 or YCbCr causes the Iris to be overly responsive. Note number 2) is RGB Video not RGB, they're two different color space settings for the SP8602.
Once you hit the sweet spot you'll know it. Detecting the Dynamic Iris becomes rather difficult.
I've watched entire previously viewed movies and couldn't see the Iris auto adjust as I saw it before changing a few settings. However, I could hear it working at times on the quiet scenes.Which let me know it is doing its job.


For example:
My unit has 280 hours on the lamp at the present time.
Brightness is set to 37 out of a possible 100.
Contrast is set to 48 out of a possible 100.
The settings are for a 120 inch screen.
post #1476 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdbaba View Post

Bummer. Is it loud when it is in eco on 4X wheel speed? Have you had many other PJs to compare it too?

My Pioneer FPJ1 is quiet as heck on eco, but on high bulb I can hear it a bit -- still not bad.

The sound from the CW at 4x is inaudible. When set to 6x it's high whine is clearly audible and I find it too distracting to use. The fan in eco mode is not distracting at all, once the movie starts you cant hear it. The fan in normal is considerably louder. The pitch is no where as distracting as the 6x CW and on sports or an action movie you'd probably forget about it. the eco is comparable and the normal is a bit louder than my BenQ W20K.

Check my previous posts in this thread for PJ's I've owned.

Thanks.
post #1477 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post
The sound from the CW at 4x is inaudible. When set to 6x it's high whine is clearly audible and I find it too distracting to use. The fan in eco mode is not distracting at all, once the movie starts you cant hear it. The fan in normal is considerably louder. The pitch is no where as distracting as the 6x CW and on sports or an action movie you'd probably forget about it. the eco is comparable and the normal is a bit louder than my BenQ W20K.

Check my previous posts in this thread for PJ's I've owned.

Thanks.
Mahalo nui loa my friend. I could not pass up the good deals going on with the BenQ W6000. Have one coming at the end of the week. Will test it out and see how it compares to my Pioneer. Hopefully I will be impressed and not see RBE too much. Have a great night.
post #1478 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

OK fellows after hours of fiddling, I retract my negative comments about the Iris pumping.

What I've discovered is, there are several key settings that minimize this to a point it is a non-issue.

First you need to make sure your video output device feeding the SP8602 is set to 16-235 limited RGB.

2) Projector color space is RGB Video
3) Gamma is set to Video
4) Color gamut is REC709 or Maximum
5) Turn off Dynamic Iris
6) Use the basic calibration videos found on the AVS HD 709 thread for Brightness and Contrast http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
7) Or if connected to an HTPC with the Media Center, use Windows Media Center basic calibration for Brightness and Contrast in the video settings section.
8) If using MPC-HC or some other form of Video playback software the limited studio RGB 16-235 should be used. If not, it will crush the blacks confusing the SP8602's Iris software.
9) Turn dynamic Iris back on when complete
10) Watch your favorite movies again and look for Iris pumping.

If the video output device(Graphics card or Blu ray player) color space is set to anything other than 16-235 RGB limited studio, it throws off all of the other settings listed above.
Sending the Full RGB 0-255 or YCbCr causes the Iris to be overly responsive. Note number 2) is RGB Video not RGB, they're two different color space settings for the SP8602.
Once you hit the sweet spot you'll know it. Detecting the Dynamic Iris becomes rather difficult.
I've watched entire previously viewed movies and couldn't see the Iris auto adjust as I saw it before changing a few settings. However, I could hear it working at times on the quiet scenes.Which let me know it is doing its job.


For example:
My unit has 280 hours on the lamp at the present time.
Brightness is set to 37 out of a possible 100.
Contrast is set to 48 out of a possible 100.
The settings are for a 120 inch screen.

Thanks Joesyah! It always seemed that something was causing the iris pumping. Gotta try this!
post #1479 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

OK fellows after hours of fiddling, I retract my negative comments about the Iris pumping.

What I've discovered is, there are several key settings that minimize this to a point it is a non-issue.

First you need to make sure your video output device feeding the SP8602 is set to 16-235 limited RGB.

2) Projector color space is RGB Video
3) Gamma is set to Video
4) Color gamut is REC709 or Maximum
5) Turn off Dynamic Iris
6) Use the basic calibration videos found on the AVS HD 709 thread for Brightness and Contrast http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
7) Or if connected to an HTPC with the Media Center, use Windows Media Center basic calibration for Brightness and Contrast in the video settings section.
8) If using MPC-HC or some other form of Video playback software the limited studio RGB 16-235 should be used. If not, it will crush the blacks confusing the SP8602's Iris software.
9) Turn dynamic Iris back on when complete
10) Watch your favorite movies again and look for Iris pumping.

If the video output device(Graphics card or Blu ray player) color space is set to anything other than 16-235 RGB limited studio, it throws off all of the other settings listed above.
Sending the Full RGB 0-255 or YCbCr causes the Iris to be overly responsive. Note number 2) is RGB Video not RGB, they're two different color space settings for the SP8602.
Once you hit the sweet spot you'll know it. Detecting the Dynamic Iris becomes rather difficult.
I've watched entire previously viewed movies and couldn't see the Iris auto adjust as I saw it before changing a few settings. However, I could hear it working at times on the quiet scenes.Which let me know it is doing its job.


For example:
My unit has 280 hours on the lamp at the present time.
Brightness is set to 37 out of a possible 100.
Contrast is set to 48 out of a possible 100.
The settings are for a 120 inch screen.

I tried this last night and while I didn't think it would, it does seem to minimize the effect of the DI. Although I think the picture losses some of it's color saturation. I tried the gamma on Film and Video and felt it looked better on film. Also I tried changing the color gamut to Rec 709 or max and felt auto worked fine.

The bigger issue is the way the PJ handles color space. It was mentioned earlier in this thread that the PJ expects a RGB-PC (0-255) signal, while your media device will probably send an RGB-Video (16-235). I'm using a BDP-83 and the only way I could get the signal to match up was to set both the Oppo and the PJ to RGB-Video from Auto. Just like you mentioned above. If the player outputs RGB video and the PJ is set to auto it doesn't seem to work right. I've tried both YCBR 4:4:4 and RGB Full from the Oppo and they don't match up when the PJ is set to auto either. You can tell when setting the contrast with a calibration disc, the whites are crushed. When setting the PJ to RGB Video/Full and leaving the Oppo at auto the black levels were all over the place. The black level (brightness) was as high as 74 and as low as 37. With both set at RGB Video, IIRC brightness was 54 and contrast was 46. If the Oppo was set to RGB PC or YCBR 4:4:4 and the PJ was auto the settings were 50 and 50 but as I mentioned the whites were crushed. The only way to correct it was to set contrast at -3 on the Oppo.
post #1480 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post

I tried this last night and while I didn't think it would, it does seem to minimize the effect of the DI. Although I think the picture losses some of it's color saturation. I tried the gamma on Film and Video and felt it looked better on film. Also I tried changing the color gamut to Rec 709 or max and felt auto worked fine.

The bigger issue is the way the PJ handles color space. It was mentioned earlier in this thread that the PJ expects a RGB-PC (0-255) signal, while your media device will probably send an RGB-Video (16-235). I'm using a BDP-83 and the only way I could get the signal to match up was to set both the Oppo and the PJ to RGB-Video from Auto. Just like you mentioned above. If the player outputs RGB video and the PJ is set to auto it doesn't seem to work right. I've tried both YCBR 4:4:4 and RGB Full from the Oppo and they don't match up when the PJ is set to auto either. You can tell when setting the contrast with a calibration disc, the whites are crushed. When setting the PJ to RGB Video/Full and leaving the Oppo at auto the black levels were all over the place. The black level (brightness) was as high as 74 and as low as 37. With both set at RGB Video, IIRC brightness was 54 and contrast was 46. If the Oppo was set to RGB PC or YCBR 4:4:4 and the PJ was auto the settings were 50 and 50 but as I mentioned the whites were crushed. The only way to correct it was to set contrast at -3 on the Oppo.

WOW!! yeah if your color saturation changes, then something else is wrong there. My colors actually pop more since I changed everything to limited video on all devices with the addition of the recalibration.

I use an HTPC with video card instead of a true Blu ray player though. You shouldn't have needed to use the contrast on your Oppo to correct the overall contrast. I'm not sure what's happening there?

Yeah..I had the same reaction with my brightness and contrast all over the place!! It was a mess trying to figure out why my contrast and brightness were so drastically different!

As you mentioned using Auto for gamut should work fine. I decided I didn't want it to be left to chance, that it may want to set itself to something other than Max or REC709..so I set it up manually to stay fixed.

I tried the gamma on Film and Video as well. All of the other gammas looked hazy besides Video after the calibration.
Switch between the two on a dark scene, you'll see what I mean. Doing it on bright scenes you won't see much of a difference.

I was able to set the contrast(white clipping) to where all of the bars flash from 230 to 253.
Using the Brightness(black clipping) video I was able to push black level to where I got the flashing bars prominent between 18 to 25.
The APL clipping fell nearly perfect after setting the White clipping and Black clipping.

@ Mr.Neverbicker
You're welcome my friend!
post #1481 of 1992
Hi Guys,
The issue I found was that if you left the SP8602 on "auto" it would assume all RGB sources where PC levels (0-255), while they where actually outputing Video levels (16-235). This led to the levels being stretched and the picture looking washed out even when I calibrated the brightness using a test disk ( brightness around 37).

I also tried setting the SP8602 to RGB, Video levels and REC709 (all my sources are switched over the one HDMI cable). This did help with some sources, but other sources such as Satellite produced a 'green' image. I later found that this was due to it outputing YCbCr and not RGB.

I also tried my blu-ray player (Sony 5000ES) set to RGB Video and the SP8602 set to RGB Video. While the image was 'ok', it seems to lose the 'Pop' of RGB PC levels. This probably could have been improved by recalibrating contrast.

I solved all my issues by introducing a DVDO Duo between my sources and the SP8602. The Duo is set to convert all sources to RGB PC levels (0-255) while the SP8602 is set to 'Auto'. Through the Duo's information screens I can see exactly what each source is outputing (RGB PC levels, RGB Video Levels, YCrCb, Refresh rate etc) and exactly what the SP8602 is expecting when set to auto (it always expects RGB PC levels).

My calibrated values are contrast 50, brightness 48 and gamma 'Video'. All sources look rich and saturated with lots of 'pop' and I don't have to make any adjustments when I switch sources (via the Duo).

Sorry guys, this is starting to sound like a add for the Duo, it did however solve all my level issues with the SP8602 and gave me a good understanding of what sources where outputing and what the SP8602 was expecting.

cheers,
Stephen
post #1482 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post

The sound from the CW at 4x is inaudible. When set to 6x it's high whine is clearly audible and I find it too distracting to use. The fan in eco mode is not distracting at all, once the movie starts you cant hear it. The fan in normal is considerably louder. The pitch is no where as distracting as the 6x CW and on sports or an action movie you'd probably forget about it. the eco is comparable and the normal is a bit louder than my BenQ W20K.

Check my previous posts in this thread for PJ's I've owned.

Thanks.

I played around with this some more last night. The CW at 6x is loud only when running at 1080/60p. When running the PJ with 1080/24p sources it's inaudible.
post #1483 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post
WOW!! yeah if your color saturation changes, then something else is wrong there. My colors actually pop more since I changed everything to limited video on all devices with the addition of the recalibration.

I use an HTPC with video card instead of a true Blu ray player though. You shouldn't have needed to use the contrast on your Oppo to correct the overall contrast. I'm not sure what's happening there?

Yeah..I had the same reaction with my brightness and contrast all over the place!! It was a mess trying to figure out why my contrast and brightness were so drastically different!

As you mentioned using Auto for gamut should work fine. I decided I didn't want it to be left to chance, that it may want to set itself to something other than Max or REC709..so I set it up manually to stay fixed.

I tried the gamma on Film and Video as well. All of the other gammas looked hazy besides Video after the calibration.
Switch between the two on a dark scene, you'll see what I mean. Doing it on bright scenes you won't see much of a difference.

I was able to set the contrast(white clipping) to where all of the bars flash from 230 to 253.
Using the Brightness(black clipping) video I was able to push black level to where I got the flashing bars prominent between 18 to 25.
The APL clipping fell nearly perfect after setting the White clipping and Black clipping.

@ Mr.Neverbicker
You're welcome my friend!
I tried all the different matchups I could and unless I set both the PJ and the Blu ray player to RGB video it would crush the whites. Even when I set both to RGB-PC I still couldn't get the PJ to sync up correctly. As you pointed out the DI is not as obvious when in RGB-Video. I'm not sure that sells me on the DI, but it definitely works better. So far as a general rule I've been turning DI on for 2.35 movies and turning it off for 1.85 (anamorphic).

I also played some more with the gamma settings film and video. I haven't had time to set up a sensor and read the actual measurements but I think for me film has the best trade off in PQ. Black level seems darker under video gamma but at the expense of shadow detail. It's a hard call, depending on the movie each can look really good. As info brightness has to be calibrated for each gamma setting.

My current settings for 1080/24p movies from an Oppo BDP-83SE, direct to the PJ, projected on a 106" 1.0 gain matte white screen. Calibrated using the Spears and Munsil BR disc.

Default settings used unless listed below.

Brightness - 54
Contrast - 46
Sharpness - Normal
Aspect Ratio - Native

BC - Normal
DI - On/2.35 movies, Off/1.85 movies
Color Temp - Warmest
Overscan - Off
Color Space - RGB Video
Flesh Tone - 0
Noise Reduction - 0
Motion Smoothing - Off
Gamma - Film
Color Gamut - Auto

Once I get a sensor up I'll calibrate the color gains/offsets

Lamp Low Power - On
Fast Color Refresh - On
post #1484 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by whmacs View Post
Hi Guys,
The issue I found was that if you left the SP8602 on "auto" it would assume all RGB sources where PC levels (0-255), while they where actually outputing Video levels (16-235). This led to the levels being stretched and the picture looking washed out even when I calibrated the brightness using a test disk ( brightness around 37).

I also tried setting the SP8602 to RGB, Video levels and REC709 (all my sources are switched over the one HDMI cable). This did help with some sources, but other sources such as Satellite produced a 'green' image. I later found that this was due to it outputing YCbCr and not RGB.

I also tried my blu-ray player (Sony 5000ES) set to RGB Video and the SP8602 set to RGB Video. While the image was 'ok', it seems to lose the 'Pop' of RGB PC levels. This probably could have been improved by recalibrating contrast.



cheers,
Stephen
How about the DI, do you use it and what's your impression?

I have a PS3 hooked up on HDMI 2 in addition to my Oppo on HDMI 1. The PS3 is using using RGB-PC levels and I think it looks great. With RGB-PC levels it seems correct brightness and contrast settings are at or close to 50 . Since I use the Oppo for movies I haven't calibrated the PS3 and I left both at 50. I also agree with what you mentioned above, with RGB PC levels colors seem to have more saturation and pop.
post #1485 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post
I tried all the different matchups I could and unless I set both the PJ and the Blu ray player to RGB video it would crush the whites. Even when I set both to RGB-PC I still couldn't get the PJ to sync up correctly. As you pointed out the DI is not as obvious when in RGB-Video. I'm not sure that sells me on the DI, but it definitely works better. So far as a general rule I've been turning DI on for 2.35 movies and turning it off for 1.85 (anamorphic).

I also played some more with the gamma settings film and video. I haven't had time to set up a sensor and read the actual measurements but I think for me film has the best trade off in PQ. Black level seems darker under video gamma but at the expense of shadow detail. It's a hard call, depending on the movie each can look really good. As info brightness has to be calibrated for each gamma setting.

My current settings for 1080/24p movies from an Oppo BDP-83SE, direct to the PJ, projected on a 106" 1.0 gain matte white screen. Calibrated using the Spears and Munsil BR disc.

Default settings used unless listed below.

Brightness - 54
Contrast - 46
Sharpness - Normal
Aspect Ratio - Native

BC - Normal
DI - On/2.35 movies, Off/1.85 movies
Color Temp - Warmest
Overscan - Off
Color Space - RGB Video
Flesh Tone - 0
Noise Reduction - 0
Motion Smoothing - Off
Gamma - Film
Color Gamut - Auto

Once I get a sensor up I'll calibrate the color gains/offsets

Lamp Low Power - On
Fast Color Refresh - On
I wonder is there a difference between your calibration disc and the AVS version?

There's a movie named "The Adjustment Bureau" should be releasing on video soon. Near the beginning of the movie, there's a scene where four men walk on to a roof 4 minutes and 40 seconds into it. This is an excellent scene for shadow detail. If I switch over to PC levels this scene loses its shadow detail and the details of the four men's clothing and faces are much more difficult to see. Black levels go beyond what they should. I had my girlfriend to watch this scene as I switched back and forth. She recognized the difference instantly.

I'm using a 120" screen with 2.0 gain.

Theses are my settings
Brightness - 37
Contrast - 48
Sharpness - Normal
Aspect Ratio - Native

BC - Normal
DI - On/2.35 movies, On/1.85 movies
Color Temp - Warm
Overscan - Off
Color Space - RGB Video
Flesh Tone - 0
Noise Reduction - 0
Motion Smoothing - Off
Gamma - Video
Color Gamut - REC709


Lamp Low Power - On
Fast Color Refresh - Off

I force 24 Hz output/ limited RGB 16-235 to the SP8602 unless watching live TV in Media center. I use 60 Hz output for that.
post #1486 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

I wonder is there a difference between your calibration disc and the AVS version?

There's a movie named "The Adjustment Bureau" should be releasing on video soon. Near the beginning of the movie, there's a scene where four men walk on to a roof 4 minutes and 40 seconds into it. This is an excellent scene for shadow detail. If I switch over to PC levels this scene loses its shadow detail and the details of the four men's clothing and faces are much more difficult to see. Black levels go beyond what they should. I had my girlfriend to watch this scene as I switched back and forth. She recognized the difference instantly.

I've used both the HD DV Essentials and S&M discs and they calibrate the same. I have the SD version of AVS and I can't remember if it would calibrate an HD display correctly.

Did you recalibrate when you did this? The brightness and contrast will not be the same for both color spaces. If you calibrated at video levels and then dropped to PC levels the blacks would overpower the image. Conversely if you calibrate at PC levels and then change to video levels the picture will look washed out.

Based on my tests and others in this thread, the PJ was factory calibrated to use RGB PC levels. Assuming your playback device is not adjusting levels, brightness and contrast for RGB PC should be at or close to 50, which are the default settings. Changing the color space to RGB Video the brightness/contrast would logically look similar to my settings, 54/46. Your contrast seems right but brightness at 37 makes me think your HTPC is adjusting the brightness before it sends it to the PJ or the color space still does not match. At one point I had the color space mismatched which when calibrated put my brightness that low. Unfortunately I don't remember what combination it was.
post #1487 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post

Did you recalibrate when you did this? The brightness and contrast will not be the same for both color spaces. If you calibrated at video levels and then dropped to PC levels the blacks would overpower the image. Conversely if you calibrate at PC levels and then change to video levels the picture will look washed out.

Based on my tests and others in this thread, the PJ was calibrated to use RGB PC levels. Assuming your playback device is not adjusting levels, brightness and contrast for RGB PC should be at or close to 50. Changing the color space to RGB Video the brightness/contrast would logically look similar to my settings, 54/46. Your contrast seems right but brightness at 37 makes me think your HTPC is adjusting the brightness before it sends it to the PJ or the color space still does not match.

When I originally calibrated, my settings were closer to yours. The problem for me was that something still didn't look quite right. My skin tones were being thrown off when the DI was working..faces had too much contrast. The DI was also more noticeable. Now that I think about it, this was with RGB selected in the projector menu and not RGB video. This was also with my HTPC outputting RGB 0-255.

At 54 for brightness my screen is blinding!!! lol
Using the AVS 709 brightness and contrast are spot on with my current settings. I went in for kicks and checked the Media centers calibrations video. It was also spot on after using the AVS 709 videos.

I'll play with it some more this weekend and see what I get using your settings as a guide.

Being my screen's gain is probably double of yours, this could be a reason for the differences in brightness as well. My projector is 14 feet from the screen and 13 inches below it.
post #1488 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

When I originally calibrated, my settings were closer to yours. The problem for me was that something still didn't look quite right. My skin tones were being thrown off when the DI was working..faces had too much contrast. The DI was also more noticeable. Now that I think about it, this was with RGB selected in the projector menu and not RGB video. This was also with my HTPC outputting RGB 0-255.

Funny this is what I found too. As you noted, with the DI clamped down it was particularly obvious on skin tones. I liked the overall picture with both set at RGB 0-255, but IMO the DI was not usable. With the player and PJ at 16-235 the DI works much better. And of course discs are mastered at 16-235 anyway.

Quote:
At 54 for brightness my screen is blinding!!! lol
Using the AVS 709 brightness and contrast are spot on with my current settings. I went in for kicks and checked the Media centers calibrations video. It was also spot on after using the AVS 709 videos.

I'll play with it some more this weekend and see what I get using your settings as a guide.

I just wonder if there's something else in your HTPC that's altering the signal.
post #1489 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post

Funny this is what I found too. As you noted, with the DI clamped down it was particularly obvious on skin tones. I liked the overall picture with both set at RGB 0-255, but IMO the DI was not usable. With the player and PJ at 16-235 the DI works much better. And of course discs are mastered at 16-235 anyway.



I just wonder if there's something else in your HTPC that's altering the signal.

I'll surely try to find out this weekend, wish I could do it tonight. My work schedule keeps me from playing with my toys any sooner! lol

Off topic a bit, but I've found the contrast to be absolutely terrific with this projector! The black levels/contrast are to a point, I find its a non issue with this unit.

For the ones on the fence of getting the SP8602, it will make you wonder what all the fuss is about. The meager published contrast numbers give no indication of how great the image it really throws.
post #1490 of 1992
Hello everyone! This is my first post. I am planning to buy my first projector this summer. Is the Infocus SP 8602 still available? If yes, where can I buy it?

Thanks,

Plagen
post #1491 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plagen View Post

Hello everyone! This is my first post. I am planning to buy my first projector this summer. Is the Infocus SP 8602 still available? If yes, where can I buy it?

Thanks,

Plagen

Google is your friend! You have many places to buy it from. Apparently the SP8602 is still being manufactured. Amazon would be my top choice of those listed.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CEkQ_QgwAQ

Here's an old article on the SP8602. I didn't realize it used the Unishape Technology.
This could be one of the reasons, I as well as others find the image soooo clean!
http://www.gather.com/viewArticle.ac...81474978064482
post #1492 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by SauceXX View Post

How about the DI, do you use it and what's your impression?

I have a PS3 hooked up on HDMI 2 in addition to my Oppo on HDMI 1. The PS3 is using using RGB-PC levels and I think it looks great. With RGB-PC levels it seems correct brightness and contrast settings are at or close to 50 . Since I use the Oppo for movies I haven't calibrated the PS3 and I left both at 50. I also agree with what you mentioned above, with RGB PC levels colors seem to have more saturation and pop.

Hi SauceXX,
I have my DI set to auto and to be honest it hasn't readlly caused me any grief. The only time I really notice it is if scenes change from light -> dark -> light quickly. The wife and kids have never commented about the DI as against if I was to turn on motion smoothing. They are all over that, saying the movie 'doesn't look right'

Regards,
Stephen
post #1493 of 1992
@SauceXX

I went back in and calibrated the projector using RGB 0-255 on video card output. RGB was also used in the projector menu. With MPC-HC set to 0-255 the settings were incredibly off. My brightness was as high as 70! lol

By changing just the output of the MPC-HC(Media Player Classic home cinema player) to 16-235, settings after calibration resembled what I posted above. Brightness was adjusted to 40 instead of 37.

At this point the whites were so white and bright it actually hurt my eyes.
The Iris was slightly more noticeable, not offensive or obtrusive though.

Besides leaving brightness at 40. I've reset to my original settings. Tonight I'll probably decrease brightness 1 or 2 points to 39 or 38 for comfort. I'm guessing my cheap screen has more gain than I realized.
post #1494 of 1992
I also use HTPC, the PJ and video card set to 0-255, and coincidentally the picture is ideal with all settings untouched at 50.
post #1495 of 1992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Neverbicker View Post

I also use HTPC, the PJ and video card set to 0-255, and coincidentally the picture is ideal with all settings untouched at 50.

Do you use Cyberlink powerdvd? I just finished testing it out. Using the calibration video, the player is over driving the whites into clipping. Using the white clipping test revealed only the first few bars.

Once I went back to the MPC player.The bars were again flashing from 230 right up to 252. Using PDVD I couldn't get the calibration set properly on contrast nor brightness. Whites became so bright they started to turn blue.
post #1496 of 1992
Here's a few pics after contrast and brightness calibration.
Pics are from "5 days of August" and my all time favorite "Forrest Gump".





post #1497 of 1992
In Infocus' own words, they are done with this projector and have no more to sell dealers. Some dealers have stock lying around but beware of any site saying they have more coming in or that they will order one for you. Amazon shows only one left in stock with a statement that more are coming soon. I doubt any more are coming. The B&H site shows the projector as being discontinued.

No replacement has been announced and it wouldn't surprise me to see Infocus exit this sector. Infocus hasn't shown at Cedia for awhile.
post #1498 of 1992
Mark, trying to understand the intent of your last post. Infocus would still provide support even if the unit is purchased right about the time it is discontinued right? Kind of like people buying the last remaining Pioneer Kuros?

I am wanting a 120" to 130" wide 2.37 AT screen and was originally thinking RS40 to pair it with but the impression I get is that RS40 may not be able to light it up adequately (16ftL) in light controlled room after a few hundred hours and after calibration. Hence, I started to look at DLP again. It seems 8602 is the best all around DLP (sharpness, black levels, brightness) under $5K MSRP and worth the premium over the BenQ W6K. It's very slim pickings in DLP
post #1499 of 1992
My intent was to notify members that it was discontinued and if they want one to grab one quick from whoever has any more. We can't get any more and neither can any other dealer.
post #1500 of 1992
Yes PowerDVD, never used a calibration disc, but it's very easy to see on certain scenes when whites and shadows begin to crush. Other settings could negatively affect this, like maybe the vivid setting if I recall. The opening scene of Valkyrie is great for balancing shadows. The scene pans across tank tracks in the dark, and there's a lot of shadow detail that can be missed with my PJ set to other than 50.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official InFocus Sp8602 owners thread.