Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 7

I would drill a hole in the back panel instead. It was very easy and you don't have to worry about damaging your new board. What if your new board is defective...if you cut on it I imagine you won't be able to return it.

I just got done swaping the boards I don't have pure mode why?

You should have Pure mode. If you still have Dynamic mode you didn't get the right board. Dynamic mode is not available with the Elite model. Also you should see 'Pro Adjust' as an option on your picture adjustment (ie tint, color etc.) menus.

My board had the color sensor on it?

I think that extra port is not a color sensor port..it is an IR repeater port if you look the Elite manual. So you had to cut it down or drill a hole in the back panel? If so that would be for an Elite board. If you have the extra port on the new board I can't imagine why you aren't getting Pure mode as a picture option.

I cut it down. There's no pure mode.

Jeff, you aren't running of a PC input are you? In that case you only get standard and user (I think those are them)

If the TV is still open it's easy to tell if it was a AWW1352 or 1353.

I do know for a fact the TV won't boot without the board installed so you can't have a bad connection or anything.

I'm using an hdmi port.

Are you seeing Pro Adjust as an option on your picture adjust menus?

No everything is the same as before. What happened

That is bizarre. I would be very upset! Where did you get your board?

I have a feeling I just wasted $100. I am very upset. This is the board I bought.

http://www.discount-merchant.com/PIO...-p/1114749.htm

Totally strange.

What is?

What's the manufacture date on your panel?

2008 jul

Strange that your new board is not giving the Elite adjustments.

Same date as my 6020

Could it be one of the ribbon cables might not be all the way in?

Does the new board have the resistor that is on the cable side of IO4?

I think so, It's the elites board. The panel is together right now.

Does the picture of the board on the website he bought it from show the extra resistor? It does show the extra port for the IR repeater. I'd have been furious if I went to all this trouble and ended up with a 6020! Although I guess it could be worse..at least his set still works.

I'm going to open it back up and take a pic.

Can't get a good pic. look like there is on r7559 and there's one on aww1353. One of the ribbon cable slots wasn't closed

IT WORKS. It wasn't working because the ribbon cable was loose.

I'm surprised it didn't throw off a code

Thats great, happy for you.

Awesome! Now have fun with your new toy. One question I have for forum members...in D-Nice's suggested settings for the Kuros he mentions 'plus green' panels. Does anyone know what dates and or serial numbers this applies to. Without knowing, it is impossible to know what settings to use.

I don't know what the 'plus green' panels are but am using the 111fd settings.

Thank you all for everyone's help and Thank you TG_ONE for finding out how to make this possible.

I have mine set to D-Nice 'plus green' 151fd settings. Problem is I don't know if my set is really a plus green one or not so the D-Nice settings may not be valid. It does look very nice though. I did back the color off a couple clicks...he called for +3 but I think mine looks better at +1. I am now on the fence about getting a pro calibration vs getting the ControlCal Elite profiles and messing with it myself. I can say that I was at a buddies house last night watching a Sharp LCD set....YUCK. Shadows in faces were green among many other flaws. I came back home and watched the same shows on the Kuro and what a difference! Also thanks to TG-ONE for discovering this cool upgrade for 5020/6020 owners.