Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 8

i have a little glitch with my non elite. about ten days after the board swap noticed when i turned the tv on the next day it went from standard mode to performance mode i left it in standard the nite before.two days later it did the same thing this time from pure mode to optimum mode its like its losing its memory. i dont know if it had something to do with the board swap or if its the tv itself.

I know it would be a lot of trouble, but one way to find out if it is the TV, is to put the old card back and see if the same thing happens.

it could be a bad board? the funny thing is that it was fine for about ten day i will have someone from pioneer look at it

i mean i will have a pioneer tec look at it

You want Pioneer to look at your hacked 5020?

its not under warranty and if its not the board then i will need to get it fixed

Given the cost of fixing it I would just live with the issue, and reset to your desired picture mode when you turn it on each time.

Does anyone else notice there's more detail in pure more then in movie?

i need to know if the board is bad if so i can send it back. service call is only $60.00 bucks if its something that will cost big bucks i will live with it

First of all thanks to TG_ONE for having the kahunas to open up his panel. I had a theory about ID resistors a while back but never would have guessed the IO assembly would be the one.

I successfully completed the swap last night and wrote up a detailed (information only) guide on my web site which may help some people.

Also I noticed the SM recommends doing an "initialization" whenever the IO assy is replaced, although since the assy is technically different I wasn't sure if this is something that should be done. Since everything's working I'm reluctant to even try. The explanation is outlined in the clip below. Has anyone done this?

EDIT: I took the plunge and did it. No problems.
You'll need controlcal or hyperterminal.

1. Send the FAY command or Calibration ON with Controlcal to get into the SM
2. Press Mute a few times until you see the words "initialize" near the top.
3. Press the up or down arrow until you see "Auto Adjustment". Press Enter
4. Move right one to change the option to YES.
5. Hold down the enter button for 5 seconds.
6. The screen will flash a few green boxes then say initialization is complete.
7. Turn off the power with the remote. Then back on.

FYI, R7692 / 7691 has nothing to do with the config of the board. It's just there so the test equipment knows what kind of board it is. You only need to put in R7759.

Can you please post the instructions on how to do an auto adjustment? I swapped a bunch of chips when I was figuring out what makes a 1352 and a 1353 different and I'd like to do that procedure.

Since we are all about turning our xx20's into Elites, does anyone know if the 111/151 speakers can be used on their xx20 counterparts? (My 5020 appears to have the appropriate mounting holes). I found the speaker system on Pioneer's parts website (Part # SMW2025 for the 111 speaker system), and am considering getting these as I am not a fan of the bottom mounted speaker bar.

The speakers are specifically listed as being only for the 111; but, then again, so is the AWW1353 Just curious if it is an option.

Yes they can.

You'll need controlcal or hyperterminal.

1. Send the FAY command or Calibration ON with Controlcal to get into the SM
2. Press Mute a few times until you see the words "initialize" near the top.
3. Press the up or down arrow until you see "Auto Adjustment". Press Enter
4. Move right one to change the option to YES.
5. Hold down the enter button for 5 seconds.
6. The screen will flash a few green boxes then say initialization is complete.
7. Turn off the power with the remote. Then back on.

I took the plunge 5 mins ago and everything went fine. Also it's worth noting the panel information screen lists the display as an AHB, Elite model.

What's does AHB, Elite model mean?

Not much, just how the panel identifies itself in the service menu. ATB = 5020/6020 and AHB = 111/151 Elite.

Ok I put the board in to a 50" ,So does that it would read as a 111?

I'm using the setting for the 111fd from dnice.

Yes

Thanks for informing us about this.

Kinda wish I had known about this before spending $600 on the VideoEQ Pro, now that I did get a VEQ Pro I'm not wanting to risk opening the panel up. ISF Day & Night modes are very tempting though and I can always move the VEQ Pro to the upstairs TV. Kinda wasteful though to put a $600 processor on a $1000 TV.

The VEQ-P does wonders for projectors if you ever go down that road. I was previously using an Onkyo-->HDMI splitter-->VEQ-P-->Kuro/Projector and had to deal with LUT switching and HDMI handshaking issues. The new setup is much simpler.

Good idea, I will certainly keep it around that's for sure. If anything it helps with me being able to calibrate the Kuro w/o having to go through SM and ControlCAL.

I think what you're referring to is Initialize-->Final Setup-->Data Reset-->Yes or RS232 command FST, which to my knowledge resets only the user settings to default and asks whether or not the display is set for store/home use during first boot.

This will not bring back your unique RGB values however, or should it change the hour count.

any chance this would work on xx10 series panels?

I wouldn't put a 9G board into a 8G..

but, we never know until someone puts their display at risk and tries something.

Greetings All. This my first post, I wanted to PM dsmdriver about the pre-moded boards and if he's worked out any details yet. Unforunately I can't PM until I have 5 posts. So any way, I'm definatly interested in obtaining one for my 6020. One down Four to go.

So far I have only had one person interested in doing a swap, so I'm not doing them yet. I could do a board if you sent me one to modify, but I don't have any to swap out so you have to wait for shipping.

I did it too with no problems. People should know the 'complete' message and green boxes appear over and over in a loop until you power off the set. Not really sure what it did, but since the service manual called for it I figured I should do it.