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Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 10

post #271 of 691
rcapprotti Are you still having problems after the service tech came.
post #272 of 691
I wonder after the swap if pure mode is calibrated and measures as accurate as the REAL elites
post #273 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zues View Post

I wonder after the swap if pure mode is calibrated and measures as accurate as the REAL elites

Yes it does
post #274 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zues View Post

I wonder after the swap if pure mode is calibrated and measures as accurate as the REAL elites

Another 5020 Converted! I do my own calibration with Color HCFR and i1LT sensor. From the measurements I took I found that Pure Mode had the following defaults: Gamma, spot on 2.2 (only some slight variance); Grayscale, defaults to the same as Movie mode (slightly warm) - Had to dial this in as it was closer to 6000K vs. 6500K; Color Space: Aside from the fact that Pure mode defaults to color space 1, the default when changed to color space 2 is very close and only needed some minor tweaking.
post #275 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha_Omega1909 View Post

Color Space: Aside from the fact that Pure mode defaults to color space 1, the default when changed to color space 2 is very close and only needed some minor tweaking.

I don't think that's right? colorspace 1 is default in Movie mode.


bopb
post #276 of 691
jeff6666p so far so good
post #277 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

I don't think that's right? colorspace 1 is default in Movie mode.


bopb

All modes defaulted to colorspace 1 on mine after the swap. Not like it is that hard to change to colorspace 2 with the Elite board though
post #278 of 691
Just ordered my board. Should have it by the weekend. 2questions...I know it is recommended to do it off the stand, but has anyone done it on it? Also, I'm not sure if I want to unlock the isf day/nite modes, so will my ne profile still work for the basics? Or do I need to purchase the elite profile? Thanks.
post #279 of 691
Bump....nobody?
post #280 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcapprotti View Post

jeff6666p so far so good

Good to hear.
post #281 of 691
I'm selling my aaw1352 board if anyone is interested pm me for details.
post #282 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzook11 View Post

Just ordered my board. Should have it by the weekend. 2questions...I know it is recommended to do it off the stand, but has anyone done it on it? Also, I'm not sure if I want to unlock the isf day/nite modes, so will my ne profile still work for the basics? Or do I need to purchase the elite profile? Thanks.

Yes the 5020FD controlcal profile still works once the panel is upgraded to elite status, however since all of the controls are now user accessible there's no need for it -- outside of unlocking and calibrating the ISFccc profiles, by which you'll need the Elite profile from Turbe.

It's important to note you'll want the 60hz and 72hz RGB tables to match from now on.
post #283 of 691
Just completed the swap on my 6020, thanks to the OP for figuring this out. There is quite a difference, flesh tones and greens much more accurate and lifelike. Even my wife noticed the difference and she is not technical at all. Quick question: How do we know if this makes our sets a "plus green" panel?
post #284 of 691
Greeting all. I did my board swap yesterday and had the ISF Day and Night modes Calibrated today By Dave Evans of 21st Century Calibrations in the Portland or. area. The swap was pretty easy, just lots of screws to keep track of. I ended up leaving the panel on the stand for the swap, I would have prefered to lay it face down on a table, but my helper could not make it. One wierd thing did occur, after I had the new board in, I turned the main Power button on, the panel would not turn, Just the Blue power led flashing
8 times then repeating. At that time there was not a lot of family oriented Language in the room. So I double checked all the connections, still the same thing. So I reinstalled the original board, No problems, fired right up . I then reinstalled the new board, this time it turned on with no problems, Had the Pure modes and Pro Adjust, What a Relief!!! Interestingly It still had all my Original picture adjustments and I believe my Original Calibrated Gray Scale.

Before I had it Calibrated today I expected an improvement, But not as Dramatic as this, Blacks are better, Shadow Detail and color are much improved, I've attached Three calibration reports, The first (AVS) is my original Calibration from Two years ago, The other two (E-Lite ISF day and Night) are the new Calibrations after the swap. You can see theres a Big improvement Gray scale and Gamma errors. Finally a HUGE Thanks to TG1 to Boldly go where no one Dare go before, I Salute You, and Thanks to the rest of the members who kindly answered my Questions. I will now end this long winded Post, Because its Monday Night, ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL!!!!

Cheers,
Dennis

 

Dennis McLellan - Pioneer PDP6020FD (AVS).pdf 253.15625k . file

 

Dennis McLellan - Pioneer PDP6020FD (E-Lite ISF Day).pdf 235.224609375k . file

 

Dennis McLellan - Pioneer PDP6020FD (E-Lite Night).pdf 235.203125k . file
post #285 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by run8 View Post

Greeting all. I did my board swap yesterday and had the ISF Day and Night modes Calibrated today By Dave Evans of 21st Century Calibrations in the Portland or. area. The swap was pretty easy, just lots of screws to keep track of. I ended up leaving the panel on the stand for the swap, I would have prefered to lay it face down on a table, but my helper could not make it. One wierd thing did occur, after I had the new board in, I turned the main Power button on, the panel would not turn, Just the Blue power led flashing
8 times then repeating. At that time there was not a lot of family oriented Language in the room. So I double checked all the connections, still the same thing. So I reinstalled the original board, No problems, fired right up . I then reinstalled the new board, this time it turned on with no problems, Had the Pure modes and Pro Adjust, What a Relief!!! Interestingly It still had all my Original picture adjustments and I believe my Original Calibrated Gray Scale.

Before I had it Calibrated today I expected an improvement, But not as Dramatic as this, Blacks are better, Shadow Detail and color are much improved I've attached Three calibration reports, The first (AVS) is my original Calibration from Two years ago, The other two (E-Lite ISF day and Night) are the new Calibrations after the swap. You can see theres a Big improvement Gray scale and Gamma errors. Finally a HUGE Thanks to TG1 to Boldly go where no one Dare go before, I Salute You, and Thanks to the rest of the members who kindly answered my Questions. I will now end this long winded Post, Because its Monday Night, ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL!!!!

Cheers,
Dennia

Congrats on the swap and welcome to the club. Strange thing about that LED blinking which the manual refers to as EDIT:Main IIC communication

Maybe one of the connectors was not secured?
post #286 of 691
That could be, Though I Double checked all the connections, It wasn't happy about something, But Alls Well now.
post #287 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by jus711 View Post

Just completed the swap on my 6020, thanks to the OP for figuring this out. There is quite a difference, flesh tones and greens much more accurate and lifelike. Even my wife noticed the difference and she is not technical at all. Quick question: How do we know if this makes our sets a "plus green" panel?

D-Nice says it depends on when your set was made. Mine was a July 2008 6020 and he said it would still be 'plus green' after the board swap.
post #288 of 691
just wondering....i did the dnice offsets to my 6020 a couple of years ago,,,,,i used control cal and the offsets for a plus green 6020....ive done the board swap on my 6020....should i undo the plus green offset settings before i activate the isf day and night modes......then use the plus green seetings for those modes......or can i leave the offsets the way they are and use the non plus green settings for the isf modes??
post #289 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by colerbear View Post

just wondering....i did the dnice offsets to my 6020 a couple of years ago,,,,,i used control cal and the offsets for a plus green 6020....ive done the board swap on my 6020....should i undo the plus green offset settings before i activate the isf day and night modes......then use the plus green seetings for those modes......or can i leave the offsets the way they are and use the non plus green settings for the isf modes??

My guess is its still a plus Green Panel, The Board swap is just unlocking more adjustments in the menu.
post #290 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by colerbear View Post

just wondering....i did the dnice offsets to my 6020 a couple of years ago,,,,,i used control cal and the offsets for a plus green 6020....ive done the board swap on my 6020....should i undo the plus green offset settings before i activate the isf day and night modes......then use the plus green seetings for those modes......or can i leave the offsets the way they are and use the non plus green settings for the isf modes??

Yes you should. There is no point in using the offsets post board swap.
post #291 of 691
Congrats on your calibration. One thing I need to mention is that my offsets were created with a PR-655 whereas Dave uses a Konica Minolta CS-200. There is a NIST trace difference between Konica Minolta and Photo Research that will cause the two brands to never measure the same. I see that trace difference in your precalibration report (Green in the grayscale) where the CS-200 reports green as being too low. A Photo Research meter would show the green being right on the money.
Quote:
Originally Posted by run8 View Post

Greeting all. I did my board swap yesterday and had the ISF Day and Night modes Calibrated today By Dave Evans of 21st Century Calibrations in the Portland or. area. The swap was pretty easy, just lots of screws to keep track of. I ended up leaving the panel on the stand for the swap, I would have prefered to lay it face down on a table, but my helper could not make it. One wierd thing did occur, after I had the new board in, I turned the main Power button on, the panel would not turn, Just the Blue power led flashing
8 times then repeating. At that time there was not a lot of family oriented Language in the room. So I double checked all the connections, still the same thing. So I reinstalled the original board, No problems, fired right up . I then reinstalled the new board, this time it turned on with no problems, Had the Pure modes and Pro Adjust, What a Relief!!! Interestingly It still had all my Original picture adjustments and I believe my Original Calibrated Gray Scale.

Before I had it Calibrated today I expected an improvement, But not as Dramatic as this, Blacks are better, Shadow Detail and color are much improved I've attached Three calibration reports, The first (AVS) is my original Calibration from Two years ago, The other two (E-Lite ISF day and Night) are the new Calibrations after the swap. You can see theres a Big improvement Gray scale and Gamma errors. Finally a HUGE Thanks to TG1 to Boldly go where no one Dare go before, I Salute You, and Thanks to the rest of the members who kindly answered my Questions. I will now end this long winded Post, Because its Monday Night, ARE YOU READY FOR SOME FOOTBALL!!!!

Cheers,
Dennia
post #292 of 691
Does anyone have a AWW1353 board for sale?
post #293 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Yes you should. There is no point in using the offsets post board swap.

thank you very much
post #294 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG_ONE View Post

PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. I WILL NOT BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR YOU DAMAGING YOUR PIONEER PLASMA DISPLAY DEVICE OR PERSONAL INJURY.

First off, TG_ONE, I just read this entire thread, and I want to offer my congratulations and thanks for decrypting and unlocking this unbelievable, too-good-to-be-true rebirth of our NE units.

Secondly, I appreciate your disclaimers and warnings -- especially in your PDF -- about the potential risks to our plasmas and our lives by performing the board swap. Certainly I do not want to die whilst trying to improve the PQ on my 6020. That would piss my wife off royally.

Now I have built many a PC, and I have always held in the power button until the power supply's light goes out to insure that I have dissipated the charge before handling the motherboard or other components. So wouldn't pressing and holding in the main power switch on the 6020 for several seconds, after unplugging the unit, discharge the capacitors to the point that risk of lethal electric shock is minimized or eliminated?
post #295 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBuck View Post

D-Nice says it depends on when your set was made. Mine was a July 2008 6020 and he said it would still be 'plus green' after the board swap.

Thanks for the reply, my 6020 was a August 2008 build, so I'm going to guess it's a "plus green" as well as D-Nice's settings look pretty spot on...I must say thanks again to to you TG_ONE this is like having a brand new TV.
post #296 of 691
All I can say is WOW!!! I now realize why the elite cost more than the NE... I just swapped the board...it couldnt have been easier...BTW I did it on the stand, no problems whatsoever. The one major problem i had with the NE was the inaccurate colors, Now they are spot on.....i now have to get the unlock for isf modes. I feel as if i have a new TV....Just in time to watch the playoffs/world series, and some football.
post #297 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmen82 View Post

Does anyone have a AWW1353 board for sale?

http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/...uctNum=AWW1353
post #298 of 691
Thanks suzook.

Does this work for the 6010fd as well?
post #299 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmen82 View Post

Thanks suzook.

Does this work for the 6010fd as well?

NO...sorry to say, it does not.
post #300 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzook11 View Post

All I can say is WOW!!! I now realize why the elite cost more than the NE... I just swapped the board...it couldnt have been easier...BTW I did it on the stand, no problems whatsoever. The one major problem i had with the NE was the inaccurate colors, Now they are spot on.....i now have to get the unlock for isf modes. I feel as if i have a new TV....Just in time to watch the playoffs/world series, and some football.

I had ChadB calibrate my 6020 E-lite today, and he improved it even more, as well as unlocking and calibrating the ISF Day and Night modes. My Pure mode color temp was running about 6272 and now he has it at a near perfect 6535. RGB was running between 94 and 106 before and was 99 to 101 after. The set was a little too green, and weak on blue even though I had it set to D-Nice's plus green settings for Pure Mode. No doubt sets vary from unit to unit. It was in the ballpark but not ideal. He also got my gamma to improve from 1.99 to 2.19. Delta E went from an ok 5.8 down to an excellent 0.6 The set looks amazing now. He said it calibrated exactly the same as the 151's he has done. I would highly recommend him. He seems to know these sets very well, and is a super nice guy as well.
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