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Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 15

post #421 of 672
1/7/11 at 10:33am
received part from pio. probably won't undertake swap until next weekend
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post #422 of 672
1/7/11 at 8:55pm
I just put my board in tonight. Received the flashing red lights but luckily it was a ribbon I forgot to plug in and I only screwed 4 of the screws on the back to test so I didn't have to unscrew 60+ screws again . So be sure to check connections like the tutorial says. I can't wait till tomorrow to get my set fully Calibrated I was only going to go with the Pure mode calibration but why not go for it all! I will let you know how it looks after calibration. Thanks to TG for posting the instructions!
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post #423 of 672
1/8/11 at 12:10pm
First off hats off to TG_ONE and wrinklefree.

I hacked both a 5020FD and a 6020FD with the AWW1353 board (purchased directly from pioneer, $140).

Tips for others who are attempting this swap.

1. I used a Skil IXO2 to unscrew the panel off both panels (the tips it comes with worked for all the screws). I would suggest using a hand philips for the rest as you can risk stripping a screw (I stripped one and it was a PITA to remove).

2. Keep a paper with diagram of the panel and divide them into separate sections: Back panel, lower panel, top plate, hdmi, etc. This will help you enormously when you're putting back the screws.

3. On the back of the AWW1352 you'll see two sticky clay things. Remove and place them on your AWW1353 board before screwing it in place.

4. For that tiny white ribbon cable, I used a flat screwdriver to pick it up gently from one end and shift the other end until it came out. I think this is the hardest ribbon to remove.

5. I performed the swap with the 60" on the stand and 50" laying flat. No problems whatsoever.

6. The 60" has a lot more screws, the diagram on paper will come in very handy.

7. I tested the set before putting all the screws back. You don't have to plug the VGA cable back in before you do it. Just plug in a HDMI source and power and see if you can get the pro adjust menu. If you do, jump for joy and carefully put everything back.

One thing to note and I'm wondering if anyone else ran into this: I think the buzzing/humming was worse after the swap. Now I think I might not have noticed because I normally have sound on but it's kinda noticeable. Anyone notice anything?
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post #424 of 672
1/8/11 at 5:43pm
I would also like to throw in that I drilled a hole for the 50" and shaved down the IR repeater on the 60". I would suggest just getting an exacto knife and cutting the tip of the port off rather than to drill. It was MUCH quicker.
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post #425 of 672
1/8/11 at 7:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaDeMaNN View Post

I just put my board in tonight. Received the flashing red lights but luckily it was a ribbon I forgot to plug in and I only screwed 4 of the screws on the back to test so I didn't have to unscrew 60+ screws again . So be sure to check connections like the tutorial says. I can't wait till tomorrow to get my set fully Calibrated I was only going to go with the Pure mode calibration but why not go for it all! I will let you know how it looks after calibration. Thanks to TG for posting the instructions!

Hey MaDeMaNN,

Going all the way with full calibration is the right way to go. After my board swap on my 6020, pure mode was better.. but still not there. I had Mike Osadciw do my calibration up here in canada. THX certified with up todate equipment. He did a fantastic job dialing everything in. " isf night mode is perfect. Still amazed by the improvement, even 3 months later. Money well spent as far as i`m concerned. You will not be disapointed. The inky blacks and extra detail just make me drool. Please chime in and let us know how everything goes.

Cruzzco
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post #426 of 672
1/9/11 at 9:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruzzco View Post


Hey MaDeMaNN,

Going all the way with full calibration is the right way to go. After my board swap on my 6020, pure mode was better.. but still not there. I had Mike Osadciw do my calibration up here in canada. THX certified with up todate equipment. He did a fantastic job dialing everything in. " isf night mode is perfect. Still amazed by the improvement, even 3 months later. Money well spent as far as i`m concerned. You will not be disapointed. The inky blacks and extra detail just make me drool. Please chime in and let us know how everything goes.

Cruzzco

Well the calibration went perfect and want to thank James from Hippo tech who did the calibration. I am very satisfied with both the ISF day and night modes and made the right decision I normally view everything in the night mode and swap with Pure. Like you said Cruzzco it was money well spent. For those on the fence with the board swap or debating on just doing standard calibration you wouldn't be disappointed and I was surprised how fairly simple the board swap is. I just used cable cutters on the IR piece and clipped the top off and that worked great.
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post #427 of 672
1/10/11 at 10:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bacon333 View Post

First off hats off to TG_ONE and wrinklefree.

I hacked both a 5020FD and a 6020FD with the AWW1353 board (purchased directly from pioneer, $140).

Tips for others who are attempting this swap.

1. I used a Skil IXO2 to unscrew the panel off both panels (the tips it comes with worked for all the screws). I would suggest using a hand philips for the rest as you can risk stripping a screw (I stripped one and it was a PITA to remove).

2. Keep a paper with diagram of the panel and divide them into separate sections: Back panel, lower panel, top plate, hdmi, etc. This will help you enormously when you're putting back the screws.

3. On the back of the AWW1352 you'll see two sticky clay things. Remove and place them on your AWW1353 board before screwing it in place.

4. For that tiny white ribbon cable, I used a flat screwdriver to pick it up gently from one end and shift the other end until it came out. I think this is the hardest ribbon to remove.

5. I performed the swap with the 60" on the stand and 50" laying flat. No problems whatsoever.

6. The 60" has a lot more screws, the diagram on paper will come in very handy.

7. I tested the set before putting all the screws back. You don't have to plug the VGA cable back in before you do it. Just plug in a HDMI source and power and see if you can get the pro adjust menu. If you do, jump for joy and carefully put everything back.

One thing to note and I'm wondering if anyone else ran into this: I think the buzzing/humming was worse after the swap. Now I think I might not have noticed because I normally have sound on but it's kinda noticeable. Anyone notice anything?

skil IXO2, is that a power drill or a hand held screw set? the 2 panels that you used this set to remove, are you referring to the exterior real panel and then the panel underneath that you need to remove to swap the board?

what items did you remove with just a handheld phillips?

thanks
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post #428 of 672
1/12/11 at 8:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. wally View Post

skil IXO2, is that a power drill or a hand held screw set? the 2 panels that you used this set to remove, are you referring to the exterior real panel and then the panel underneath that you need to remove to swap the board?

what items did you remove with just a handheld phillips?

thanks

it's the hand held power drill. I believe there was one less panel on the 6020FD than on the 5020FD. If you follow the instructions here:
http://www.hippotechsolutions.com/?page_id=2693

You should be able to figure it out with both TVs.
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post #429 of 672
1/24/11 at 4:20pm
First thanks go to TG_ONE and wrinklefree.

This discovery is great. Just when I didn't think it could get better.
I preformed the board swap the other day and I cant believe the difference it made. Even the wife noticed. The feeling i felt post swap was the same feeling I had when d-nice calibrated move mode almost two years ago.

The Swap was fairly easy and straight forward. Since I build my own pc s I wasn't to nervous. Following the directions laid out here and taking mine time it was a breeze. The hardest part for me was putting the back cover back on. It took me a few extra minutes to get it lined up right. Other than that it was straight forward.
The only thing left is to get controlcal unlock the isfccc modes plug in D-Nice's offsets and enjoy. Hopefully D-nice makes another trip to the Jersey shore this summer.
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post #430 of 672
1/24/11 at 10:17pm
So with the board swap, one can successfully adjust the colors and the gamma successfully? How big is the difference in PQ/Color accuracy with the elite board in it vs. the non-elite?
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post #431 of 672
1/25/11 at 4:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmen82 View Post
So with the board swap, one can successfully adjust the colors and the gamma successfully? How big is the difference in PQ/Color accuracy with the elite board in it vs. the non-elite?
After updating the board, you can also activate and calibrate the ISFccc modes with ControlCal.
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post #432 of 672
1/25/11 at 9:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmen82 View Post

So with the board swap, one can successfully adjust the colors and the gamma successfully? How big is the difference in PQ/Color accuracy with the elite board in it vs. the non-elite?

Yes colors can be adjusted, however when set to color space "2" they're just about spot on. Gamma can now be boosted above 2.1 and additional noise reduction can be disabled.

The individual differences are subtle, but when combined they make a definite improvement in the overall picture.

The bottom line is, do you want a good picture or a reference one?
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post #433 of 672
1/25/11 at 10:33am
Just ordered the AWW1353 for my 5020. I guess I will rename it to a JOE-111FD
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post #434 of 672
1/25/11 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownTown View Post

Just ordered the AWW1353 for my 5020. I guess I will rename it to a JOE-111FD

I believe I am close to doing the same.
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post #435 of 672
1/25/11 at 2:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by r1dude57 View Post

I believe I am close to doing the same.

Resistance is futile
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post #436 of 672
1/25/11 at 8:53pm
A few questions about settings after the board is installed.

I see people talking about factory reset, is the reset only needed if you adjusted things with controlcal previously?

How do you find your mfg date to see if you have a green panel.
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post #437 of 672
1/26/11 at 12:37am
Could someone please post the HyperTerminal configuration settings for communicating with the 6020?

Thank you..
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post #438 of 672
1/26/11 at 1:16am
Has anyone had their 6020 or 5020 pro calibrated yet? I want to know how it came out with the board swap.
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post #439 of 672
1/26/11 at 1:28am
What is needed to hook the laptop up to the kuro for ControlCal?

Can you use HDMI if your laptop has it or do you have to have the USB to Serial Converter and the Straight Through Serial Cable DB9?
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post #440 of 672
1/26/11 at 6:21am
I don't believe that you can use the HDMI option. I ended up buying the following from Monoprice and it worked great:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I used a laptop running Windows Vista Home Premium. Vista did not recognize the serial cable at first but found the drivers when I used the disc that came with the cable.
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post #441 of 672
1/26/11 at 6:35am
Or you can just order one from Turbe.
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post #442 of 672
1/26/11 at 7:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkman23 View Post

Has anyone had their 6020 or 5020 pro calibrated yet? I want to know how it came out with the board swap.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gedalneil View Post

How would you like to be able to turn your Pioneer PDP-5020 or PDP-6020 into an Elite Pro-111FD or Pro-151FD?


I recently calibrated a modified PDP-5020 to verify the results. As opposed to the original PDP-5020, the color gamut on the modified unit was reasonably close to the Rec 709 reference when I started the calibration, and nearly perfect once the panel was fully calibrated.

http://www.tweaktv.com/the-kevin-mil...pro-151fd.html

Please refer to the calibration results of a modified 5020 by Kevin Miller
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post #443 of 672
1/26/11 at 9:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDHEAD View Post

Could someone please post the HyperTerminal configuration settings for communicating with the 6020?

Thank you..

I think the defaults should work fine.

Bits per sec : 9600
Data bits : 8
Parity : none
Stop bits : 1
Flow control : none
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post #444 of 672
1/26/11 at 10:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownTown View Post

A few questions about settings after the board is installed.

I see people talking about factory reset, is the reset only needed if you adjusted things with controlcal previously?

Are you talking about the reset or initialization procedure. I would say a reset is not necessary, but the service manual calls for the initialization procedure whenever the Audio I/O assembly is replaced so I do recommend it. That being said several on this thread have done it while others have not and I don't know of any issue's whatsoever either way.
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post #445 of 672
1/26/11 at 10:29am
Alright, board will be here Weds! This is worst than having to wait to open my 8-bit Nintendo for Xmas when I was a kid.
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post #446 of 672
1/28/11 at 9:04am
I installed the resistor on the existing board. Worked perfect and the isf made a noticeable difference. Thank you TG_ONE and dsmdriver.
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post #447 of 672
2/1/11 at 10:04am
is there any proven side effects of doing the board swap? I just dont want the screen going bad in the future or anything.
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post #448 of 672
2/1/11 at 10:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkman23 View Post
is there any proven side effects of doing the board swap? I just dont want the screen going bad in the future or anything.
You will have the part you took out saved for backup if something did.
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post #449 of 672
2/1/11 at 1:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkman23 View Post

is there any proven side effects of doing the board swap? I just dont want the screen going bad in the future or anything.

The only proven side effect is weight gain from additional time sitting on the couch
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post #450 of 672
2/1/11 at 5:24pm
TG_ONE is the man!!!!

Just completed turning my 5020 into a pro-111 with the AWW1353 board
The ribbons were the only thing that made me nervous. Just slapped it in an turned it on. I have not reset anything.






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