Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 17

Just got an update from pioneer - usa

Hello Michael,

I forward the information on regarding the part # AWW1353 to see if there
were a more current eta date, and this is the response..

Hello this part was supplied by PET (vendor P00471) , this
vendor has closed and this part is not supplied by another vendor, I've
updated the part to NLA, please cancel the back order and inform the
customer.....

I have cancelled your order.

I ordered from them a few days ago. They haven't shipped yet, I called them today and they confirmed having stock and their website currently shows 16.

It's a bit expensive and I can't confirmed they have stock yet since I ordered last weekend and they still haven't shipped but it looks legit, I think some people got their part from there in the past and commented in this thread.

Cheers,

I did talk to them also and they told me that they do not have any new ones just 10 refurbished ones.

those the $130 ones? I assumed the $65 ones were refurbed

Ouch, so I just forked 150$ (shipping included to Canada) for a refurb part? That's not nice if that's the case. The online site doesn't say anything about refurb. I'll call them tomorrow to find out.

This is what I got: https://www.discounttvparts.com/Prod...tCode=DEU-1751

Edit: Just called them, the part at $113 is new and the one at $65 is refurb.

Mike_chic, when did you talk to them?

Cheers,

There are many things going on here politically that the government do not allow the media to leak info about at all, lots of people around the world have no idea about some of the terrible things that have happened to some people here in Bahrain. Thanks for the answers btw =)

About the stand, since it's already fully attached and assembled at the moment, I'm assuming taking it off and back on just requires unscrewing the legs then re-attach them back? any problems to make it fully secured again so I wouldn't be paranoid about the thing falling over?



They're around $116 shipped from their eBay store(posted a link in the previous page), guess it's expensive for a refurbished unit but it's not like there are many other options =( , I try to look at the big picture, if the board was installed successfully, the 5020FD will be pretty much a Pro-111FD for a couple of grands less :P.

I've e-mailed them to make sure of a couple of things, will probably end up getting one of those, I'm assuming they're pulling these boards off broken elites then send 'em to pioneer to make sure they're reconditioned to an almost new state and fully functional, so I don't think it's That risky.

EDIT: got a reply from 'em: "We do not send products to the manufacturer for refurbishing. This particular product came from the manufacturer, it's a manufacturer refurbished product." ohh well, what do you guys thing, too risky or the % of the part failing on me is low?

Again, if anyone has an elite board for sale, please let me know, I have some feedback on eBay and can pay via verified paypal, shipping would be to NY11413.

If you're on the fence about doing this mod, it might be wise to secure a board soon just in case as supply seems to be dwindling.

I just place an order 113.00 + shipping but the guy I was talking to said he was the sales manager and that these were refurb by Pioneer and at this time they do not have any new who knows.

@avsblid, I don't think the part's new and you could have been misinformed:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=280574540325 $102.48+ $13.58 shipping, 10+ available , it's a refurbished part

http://www.discounttvparts.com/AWW1353_p/deu-1751.htm $113 (+shipping I guess), 10+ available

http://www.discounttvparts.com/AWW1353_p/pi-1019.htm $65 out of stock

I asked through eBay whether they're the same parts (the $113 on their website and their ebay listing), I'm 99% sure they're the same parts just waiting for 'em to confirm.

You'll need someones help to put the TV on its face on top of a table: with the TV's stand hanging off the end of the table.

You do not disassemble the TV stand when removing it. There are 4 very large screws that you remove from the rear of the TV that connect-through the TV stand. It is very easy to install/remove.

Be sure to have lots and lots of little plastic cups to place screws into as you progress through the process of removing stuff. I even put in little pieces of paper with a short description, and what step # that cup was for, this made the reverse process very easy.

Thanks a lot for the tips Acid Snow, I usually use the cups method whenever I'm disassembling small electronics or building a PC, but this will be a whole new game compared to that lol.

About the screws, any idea how many I'm looking at for totally disassembling the 5020FD? The 6020FD owners had to deal with around 100 screws, but apparently the 5020FD isn't that much, probably 80-90?

BTW I pulled the trigger and bought the board from discounttvparts's ebay listning, I couldn't wait any longer to find other options lol, hopefully they'll ship it out soon. Will let you guys know about any updates if you're interested to know if the part works well or not since there aren't many options to buy these boards anymore.

There were a lot of screws, be extra careful, and diligent with each and every screw. When working on a single screw, focus only on that one, from the start of unscrewing it, to holding it in your hand, to transfering it to a cup - 100% focused, or you'll drop one on the TV's many boards, and it might be hard [annoying] to retrieve if it rolls under one.

There are some procedures that aren't outlined in any of the guides, but they are obvious and simple, so just go slow, and look at what you're about to tackle before you engage the next step.

When you're all done, and about to put the rear panel back on, do not screw any of them tight: first insert a couple screws around the corners of the TV, and just barely screw them in. If you immediately start screwing in the rear panel you'll find that not every screw will fit, because the rear panel becomes slightly warped when you initially take it off. ...Thus, leave some "wiggle room" for the majority of the rear-panel screws, and then tighten them.

Looks like discounttvparts has different messages depending on who's on the phone. I'm just hoping the part works, I wonder why they jacked up the price though from 63 to 113 for refurbs ...

In any case, do you guys use power screwdrivers or just plain ones?

Edit: got confirmation today by email that the part is manufacturer refurbished.

Cheers,

Thanks again for the instructions Acid Snow, I'm sure the tips about putting the rear panel back properly will become handy (hopefully I'll get to that part lol) =) I'll probably receive the board by next week, can't wait!

About the new board's cover, did all of you just drill a hole for the color sensor in it? I don't have a drill and neither do I have any experience with using one, I was thinking about heating up a nail (or maybe a soldering iron) and then burn a hole with it, I'm assuming the plastic cover isn't very thick so this should work fine, right?

Wrong, everything on the back of the TV is thin metal. There's a 0.2mm layer of plastic coating covering the metal panel where the inputs are - to prevent scratching the paint when people miss the input ports. ...You'll simply need to find a friend with a drill set, and start out with a small drill, and work your way up to large. After I drilled I used a scalpel to cut around the hold where that thin plastic coating had become disfigured and frayed outwards (because I drilling up through it, from behind the panel). All said and done, drilling and scalpel-ing took about 20mins, and I haven't used a drill in the past 10yrs. Just drill slowly with each drillbit, and everything will turnout well.

I did not see this coming =(, oh well gotta manage to borrow a drill from someone and hope for the best :P.

I've got a totally noobish Elite Kuro question, about the pro adjust menu (the one where you can adjust each color's settings R/G/B and some other stuff IIRC), can you use it with every mode or is it exclusive to some of the TV's modes (i.e movie & pure)?

Also, whoever did this mod then unlocked ISF Day/Night modes via controlcal, what do you think of those modes with their default settings?

Based on my limited knowledge of Elites, the pro adjust menu is available for all inputs except the VGA input. The ISF modes include pro adjust tools and the 9-point gamma adjustment. They are templates, so to speak, that require a calibration or at least reference settings to bring out their best.

FWIW, when I unlocked the ISF modes on my 500M the default settings just seemed very bright. As soon as I entered the reference settings the PQ got much much better. I'd suggest Pure as the most accurate mode once you complete the upgrade.

I was thinking the same thing. Being that its the audio board, with the inputs/outputs, ect... there must come a time that its subject to a short, or other problematic occurance that could damage it.

I wonder if Pioneer keeps a small stock on hand, not intended for retail, just in case a warranty issue arises, or for inhouse repairs?

I sure am glad I purchased it when I did.

i have a question when should your cooling fans come on ? do they come on when you turn the set on. i had my set on for about 4 hour and they never came on

I called pioneer this morning and they said this part is completely gone and most likely not be restocked. I just ordered my board from discounttvparts. Its a refurbished part from Pioneer.

get your boards before they are gone

I got mine done just in time it appears. I had procrastinated for a month, and something told me to just go in the other room and order it. Quite glad that I listened to the little voice in my head. ContolCal is my next purchase when funds allow.

The board on my 5020 had a bad optical output so I opted to do the upgrade at the same time; looks like I got my board just in time...

have a board but too scared to undertake the replacement.

anyone want to do it for me?

No offense to TG_ONE's conservative warning web-page post, but IMO his conservativeness was drastically blown out of proportion. I have zero electrical or mechanical experience, and despite lacking such skills, I had zero problems making the transition to the Elite board.

The only warning I took heed to during the entire process was simply to avoid touching anything other that what I was instructed to touch! ...If you do what you're advised to do in the various tutorials - you'll have no problems, as long as you have an observant eye and 3hrs of free time to complete it from start-to-finish. Be warned though: there are some simple steps that aren't discussed in any of the tutorials, because of their obviousness: but as long as you're focused you'll see what needs to be done

IMO, anyone with a high school degree can easily do the board transfer. ...Age will be of some help due to additional logic and patience; but experience isn't necessary until trying to drill the hole in the back of the Input-panel; even then it's pretty straight forward

To use a real life example of just how easy it is to transfer the boards: "You don't have to know what's under the hood of a car in order to drive one."

...Thus, I hereby claim that anyone with a high school degree with patience & focus can easily complete the board transfer - no questions asked within 3hrs time.

I'm SO glad I got mine when I did.

It was easy for me cause TG_ONE had posted step by step directions. I knew what to expect and how many screws were involved before I put my TV face down. He cracked open his Kuro with no instruction manual so please don't get on here and say anyone with a GED could do it.

And the quote "You don't have to know what's under the hood of a car in order to drive one." is true but I guess you knew how to drive since for the first 15 years of your life you observed someone else do it.