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Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 18

post #511 of 672
3/8/11 at 11:30pm
Guys I don't think Acid Snow meant to say that this is an easy job even without TG_ONE's instructions, I think he just meant that using the OP's great and detailed instructions + being very careful and taking it slow, you have a high percentage to get the job done, of course there's always risk doing it.

I for example am fully aware that there's chance I'll break my Kuro or even hurt myself when I attempt to do this mod, I'll only have myself to blame if that happened because I knew what I was getting myself into :P.
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post #512 of 672
3/9/11 at 6:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG_ONE View Post

It's easy being a critic when all you have to do is follow directions.

My point is simply this: the board swap is a lot easier than you made it sound in your essay "Can the Pioneer 9G Non.pdf".

I think the overall dissuading-tone written into the heart of that essay was blown out of proportion. I don't know how long ago it was written, and I'm obviously arriving to this party late, but the main message I took from reading it was "under no circumstances should anyone attempt this swap." ...The warning feels blown out of proportion and contradictory to its self. I claim it's contradictory because the entire written part of the essay was made to scare everyone away, but then there's candy laid out afterward in the form of friendly step-by-step pictures with helpful arrows and all

In conclusion, you're right! It is easy to be a critic when all I have to do is follow a guide And no, I don't have a clue how much work went into making such a helpful guide ...There are obviously going to be hazards when attempting the swap, but I found it much easier to accomplish than your essay lead me to initially believe. I'm just a normal guy with no special skills, but as long as I remained focused, the swap was a straight forward process thanks to all that yummy candy
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post #513 of 672
3/9/11 at 7:34am
I was a little intimidated myself at first, as my only experience was installing computer video cards. Didn't have a single hangup and it was much simpler than expected. Just be focused and methodical. A magnetized screwdriver will help too. Good luck guys, I don't remember reading about anyone failing in this thread. It seems we were all successful.
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post #514 of 672
3/10/11 at 7:02am
hi, i previously callibrated my pioneer 5020 HLPM with control cal after buying the bundle of controlcal, serial connector, and serial cable, i use profile 9GNE version v0.08, then i used profile version 9GNEv0.10.
So i have been very happy with the picture so far, but i was reading lately about changing the board to a new one , making this tv an E-Lite.
I have a couple of questions regarding the switch,

First is should i enter the calibration screen to reset all the changes that i made to RGB etc.. b4 changing board?

second after i get the board changed out, i have read about a reset that needs to be performed, how?

I also need to know what controlcal program that i need to purchase to calibrate this new E-Lite tv.
thanks for all answers.
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post #515 of 672
3/10/11 at 12:11pm
still scared i'm going to ruin my 5020.

may have my teenage son help, pay him even, since i know at least
that he can swap out a graphics card on his computer without problems
something well beyond my expertice.

but still if anyone in the area wants to help out............
pm me
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post #516 of 672
3/12/11 at 12:15pm
I've received my board and will try to install it tomorrow (currently unplugged the power cord from the Kuro so hopefully I won't face any electric shocks during the process :P), just would like to make sure of a few final things:

1- Around how many ribbons am I going to disconnect in a 5020FD for the swap? Is this the correct way to do it: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=455 Because someone mentioned breaking the levers when doing that:
Quote:
Originally Posted by fpapp View Post

One of those levers broke off when I did this! The connector for the ribbon cable still snaps closed, and seems to be tight. I just hope I didn't mess up my board! (I'll find out this weekend).

I'm not sure this step is necessary since those connectors will open with the levers in the up position, just have to do it carefully.
Frank

2- About the 60hz and 72hz RGB tables being matched, I have no idea what these stand for lol, but my 5020FD is not calibrated via controlcal, so do I have anything to worry about like resetting the panel to factory defaults or check certain settings before doing the swap?

3- Is there anything I have to Remove from the elite board before installing it? i.e for some gaming console laser units they have anti-statics protection pins that you have to desolder before installing the unit in the console.

If I was able to swap successfully, I'm going to do the initialization procedure "Auto Adjustment" via controlcal then get the ISF day/night modes unlocked, gotta focus on doing the swap correctly first though and then worry about how to do those later :P.
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post #517 of 672
3/14/11 at 6:10pm
Well I did the swap Sat and it works great! (thanks to all) the double side tape worked great i just line them up as they came out. Using D-nice setting for pure, 151 for now. Just bought a new laptop, already have ControlCa for the ISF modes will do a calabration next weekend might sell my video Eq pro now. You know it seems to look cleaner especially
with some of the lower grade feeds once again thanks to all
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post #518 of 672
3/17/11 at 12:13am
just did my install, took me about 1 hour. toughest part was drilling the hole. I wanted a clean hole for the IR port. Too bad it didt come out clean. lol

but very easy.

and

WOW the board made a huge diff!!!!! Must do if you have the board . I thought the 6020 was clear.. its super clear now!
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post #519 of 672
3/17/11 at 7:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkman23 View Post

just did my install, took me about 1 hour. toughest part was drilling the hole. I wanted a clean hole for the IR port. Too bad it didt come out clean. lol

but very easy.

and

WOW the board made a huge diff!!!!! Must do if you have the board . I thought the 6020 was clear.. its super clear now!

I stumbled across a tip from one pro review of the Elite. If you want a little more hyped up (LCD like) picture on broadcast tv try setting DRE Picture to 1 instead of off. I feel it helps many tv shows that are soft by nature. It adds a touch of pop and edge enhancement...gasp! lol With sharpness at -10 and DRE set to off I feel like I need new glasses when watching many programs..they just look too blurry. Blu-rays and top tier HD shows look better with it off though.
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post #520 of 672
3/17/11 at 8:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBuck View Post

I feel like I need new glasses when watching many programs..

I swear by what I'm about to write: everything sent to my Kuro 500M, including Xbox, PS3 and Cable TV (all using HDMI) look fuzzy when the sharpness is at -15. The only source that is 100% clear [at -15 sharpness] is my PC input (VGA or HDMI).

I promise, I sat for 3hrs in front of all sorts of different source material, and everything looked noticeably fuzzy if it wasn't from a true 1080p PC source. ...So what sharpness setting delivers a crisp picture from the Xbox, PS3 and Cable TV? In every test, with any source [except PC] +15 sharpness looked the best. I still test it weekly just to try and understand why people use -15 sharpness . Even Avatar on BluRay looks far better at +15.

People often argue that increasing the sharpness from minimum isn't representative of the source material, well I'm here to tell you that +15 is a drastic improvement. ...Pausing a movie and transitioning from -15 to +15 makes it blatantly obvious: at -15 the definition of an actors eye ball is fuzzy at best, but at +15 you can see the blood vessels on the white of their eye. Even swapping between +10 to +15 shows a noticeable improvement

...If that's not a solid-enough example of the difference between min/max sharpness, then I'll take pics of what I'm talking about to support my claim! Because I want people to stop walking with the herd, and realize -15 sharpness is not what any Pioneer should be set at (unless using a PC source). ...Go ahead and test this yourself, see the difference for yourself, I'll be here to discuss
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post #521 of 672
3/17/11 at 8:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid Snow View Post

I swear by what I'm about to write: everything sent to my Kuro 500M, including Xbox, PS3 and Cable TV (all using HDMI) look fuzzy when the sharpness is at -15. The only source that is 100% clear [at -15 sharpness] is my PC input (VGA or HDMI).

I promise, I sat for 3hrs in front of all sorts of different source material, and everything looked noticeably fuzzy if it wasn't from a true 1080p PC source. ...So what sharpness setting delivers a crisp picture from the Xbox, PS3 and Cable TV? In every test, with any source [except PC] +15 sharpness looked the best. I still test it weekly just to try and understand why people use -15 sharpness . Even Avatar on BluRay looks far better at +15.

People often argue that increasing the sharpness from minimum isn't representative of the source material, well I'm here to tell you that +15 is a drastic improvement. ...Pausing a movie and transitioning from -15 to +15 makes it blatantly obvious: at -15 the definition of an actors eye ball is fuzzy at best, but at +15 you can see the blood vessels on the white of their eye. Even swapping between +10 to +15 shows a noticeable improvement

...If that's not a solid-enough example of the difference between min/max sharpness, then I'll take pics of what I'm talking about to support my claim! Because I want people to stop walking with the herd, and realize -15 sharpness is not what any Pioneer should be set at (unless using a PC source). ...Go ahead and test this yourself, see the difference for yourself, I'll be here to discuss

I never go below -10 on sharpness...I don't like it lower than that. Blu-rays look pretty sharp though...raising it more makes them look 'sharper' but also kind of digital and fake vs film like. I am really glad that one review suggested putting the DRE on 1 instead of OFF. I much prefer the way it looks now on most tv shows. Have you tried using the DRE control and backing the sharpness down to -5 to -10?
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post #522 of 672
3/17/11 at 9:44am
I did the upgrade successfully, thanks a lot TG_ONE for sharing such info with us =)

I've got the DB9 serial cable and USB>serial adapter, just waiting to get the elite profiles to unlock the ISF modes via controlcal. Pure mode with reference settings is barely any different from Movie mode, I'm waiting to see how the ISF modes will look like.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid Snow View Post

I swear by what I'm about to write: everything sent to my Kuro 500M, including Xbox, PS3 and Cable TV (all using HDMI) look fuzzy when the sharpness is at -15. The only source that is 100% clear [at -15 sharpness] is my PC input (VGA or HDMI).

I promise, I sat for 3hrs in front of all sorts of different source material, and everything looked noticeably fuzzy if it wasn't from a true 1080p PC source. ...So what sharpness setting delivers a crisp picture from the Xbox, PS3 and Cable TV? In every test, with any source [except PC] +15 sharpness looked the best. I still test it weekly just to try and understand why people use -15 sharpness . Even Avatar on BluRay looks far better at +15.

People often argue that increasing the sharpness from minimum isn't representative of the source material, well I'm here to tell you that +15 is a drastic improvement. ...Pausing a movie and transitioning from -15 to +15 makes it blatantly obvious: at -15 the definition of an actors eye ball is fuzzy at best, but at +15 you can see the blood vessels on the white of their eye. Even swapping between +10 to +15 shows a noticeable improvement

...If that's not a solid-enough example of the difference between min/max sharpness, then I'll take pics of what I'm talking about to support my claim! Because I want people to stop walking with the herd, and realize -15 sharpness is not what any Pioneer should be set at (unless using a PC source). ...Go ahead and test this yourself, see the difference for yourself, I'll be here to discuss

I think the point of turning it off specially when watching top tier blu-ray movies is to watch the movie the way it was intended by the guys who made it, sharpness feature adds stuff that aren't in the source, many LCDs out there can give you a picture that looks VERY detailed because it's adding stuff that aren't the source with high sharpness, brightness and contrast settings.

To be honest even in real life I do not notice some of the stuff blu-ray+super high sharpness shows on people's faces, so to me it looks kind of fake and that's why I don't like turning the sharpness up for blu-rays, of course that's just my opinion.

I like to add some sharpness for video games though (lots of games are still made with low resolutions to keep the FPS high for game consoles).
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post #523 of 672
3/17/11 at 10:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

I think the point of turning it off specially when watching top tier blu-ray movies is to watch the movie the way it was intended by the guys who made it...

It's reasoning like this that's just baffling to me, utterly baffling! ...I'm not personally attacking you metallicaband, but I am on the prowl to fight the belief that "BluRay's should look fuzzy to maintain the original source." ...That train-of-thought is complete bull ****, 1080p content is not fuzzy! And yet somehow people accept it as "how it's supposed to look." It's completely illogical to settle for a blatantly more fuzzy image, simply because minor [digital] outlines begin to appear between black/white areas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

in real life I do not notice some of the stuff blu-ray+super high sharpness shows on people's faces, so to me it looks kind of fake

Not everyone has the same awareness of their environment, nor is everyone's eyesight the same. Thus, I think it's irrational to generalize the way you perceive the world, and put that label onto digital content.

What if someone watching TV with you has better vision; shouldn't they have the opportunity to see the best image possible? I think you need to do the sharpness-test yourself, and try to ignore what's been burned into your mind "as standard." ...Too many people simply copy & paste other people's settings without thinking twice, and then parrot that info to the next guy searching for settings
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post #524 of 672
3/17/11 at 10:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid Snow View Post

It's reasoning like this that's just baffling to me, utterly baffling! ...I'm not personally attacking you metallicaband, but I am on the prowl to fight the belief that "BluRay's should look fuzzy to maintain the original source." ...That train-of-thought is complete bull ****, 1080p content is not fuzzy! And yet somehow people accept it as "how it's supposed to look." It's completely illogical to settle for a blatantly more fuzzy image, simply because minor [digital] outlines begin to appear between black/white areas.

Not everyone has the same awareness of their environment, nor is everyone's eyesight the same. Thus, I think it's irrational to generalize the way you perceive the world, and put that label onto digital content.

What if someone watching TV with you has better vision; shouldn't they have the opportunity to see the best image possible? I think you need to do the sharpness-test yourself, and try to ignore what's been burned into your mind "as standard." ...Too many people simply copy & paste other people's settings without thinking twice, and then parrot that info to the next guy searching for settings

This disussion is funny because my buddy recently bought a Panny GT25 to replace a Sharp LCD set. Next day I heard a lot of complaining from him and his other half about how 'blurry' the picture looked on tv shows. I took some blu-rays over and showed them how good they looked on THX mode. They agreed they looked good. But then back to tv shows and the THX mode just looked terrible..it was blurry. I don't care what the hardcore say..most tv shows look pretty bad without some artificial enhancements. They just have to be used sparingly, and on a case by case basis. I bet 9 out 10 people would think the PQ on tv shows is better on our E-lites with DRE Picture set to 1 vs. OFF.
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post #525 of 672
3/17/11 at 11:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid Snow View Post

It's reasoning like this that's just baffling to me, utterly baffling! ...I'm not personally attacking you metallicaband

LOL, no worries I respect your opinion Acid Snow, I know what I said seems like a copy > paste of what some of the video Gurus say on these boards, but I HONESTLY do not like the way the picture looks like when the sharpness setting is very high either for movies or games and I've checked this on more than one occasion since I like to tweak the picture's settings every once in a while.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid Snow View Post

Not everyone has the same awareness of their environment, nor is everyone's eyesight the same. Thus, I think it's irrational to generalize the way you perceive the world, and put that label onto digital content.

What if someone watching TV with you has better vision; shouldn't they have the opportunity to see the best image possible? I think you need to do the sharpness-test yourself, and try to ignore what's been burned into your mind "as standard." ...Too many people simply copy & paste other people's settings without thinking twice, and then parrot that info to the next guy searching for settings

To be fair, I did mention a few times that's how I look at it and it's only my opinion, sorry if I sounded like I generalized my point of view. I do have normal vision for what it's worth :P.
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post #526 of 672
3/17/11 at 12:02pm
I tend to agree with Acid Snow. After I did the board swap, I went by the settings D-Nice recommended with sharpness at -15, and ran them for a few days. But recently I was watching the animated show Family Guy, and noticed it a little fuzzy compared to the standard settings I was running. While experimenting, I turned up the sharpness to +15 and noticed an immediate difference. I know the animated lines were not meant to by fuzzy, or look out of focus. I guess to each his own, but I do like the sharper, highly defined image the sharpness gain gives so Ive kept my level at +7.
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post #527 of 672
3/17/11 at 12:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboedguy View Post

I tend to agree with Acid Snow. After I did the board swap, I went by the settings D-Nice recommended with sharpness at -15, and ran them for a few days. But recently I was watching the animated show Family Guy, and noticed it a little fuzzy compared to the standard settings I was running. While experimenting, I turned up the sharpness to +15 and noticed an immediate difference. I know the animated lines were not meant to by fuzzy, or look out of focus. I guess to each his own, but I do like the sharper, highly defined image the sharpness gain gives so Ive kept my level at +7.

Have you tried turning DRE on?
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post #528 of 672
3/17/11 at 12:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboedguy View Post

While experimenting, I turned up the sharpness to +15 and noticed an immediate difference.

What surprises me most about using +15 sharpness, is that when viewing HD cable TV, we can actually see the compression-artifacts that are a natural side effect of compressing the source material into 1080i ...The 1080i compression-artifacts look just like what we would see from a compressed .JPG image Thus, by making these naturally occurring compression artifacts visible, we can factually say that there is more detail in the image!
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post #529 of 672
3/17/11 at 12:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboedguy View Post

I tend to agree with Acid Snow. After I did the board swap, I went by the settings D-Nice recommended with sharpness at -15, and ran them for a few days. But recently I was watching the animated show Family Guy, and noticed it a little fuzzy compared to the standard settings I was running. While experimenting, I turned up the sharpness to +15 and noticed an immediate difference. I know the animated lines were not meant to by fuzzy, or look out of focus. I guess to each his own, but I do like the sharper, highly defined image the sharpness gain gives so Ive kept my level at +7.

-15 only works on Blu-rays for me... for anything else it looks pretty bad.
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post #530 of 672
3/17/11 at 5:45pm
so .. do you guys leave it on Pure or Movie Mode now?
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post #531 of 672
3/17/11 at 7:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkman23 View Post

so .. do you guys leave it on Pure or Movie Mode now?

I haven't personally compared Pure vs Movie (when both are calibrated), but other people have, and the consensus says Pure is slightly better than Movie mode.
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post #532 of 672
3/31/11 at 12:16pm
bump.

may try and do the swap this weekend
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post #533 of 672
3/31/11 at 3:00pm
Well, I bought one of the boards off of discounttvparts.com before they all disappear, they have two left now. I've build a lot of computers and I work with them day-in and day-out. I think I can manage the board swap, just have to get the courage up to do it. I don't have controlCAL, I've spoken with D-Nice a long time ago about getting my TV calibrated. I told him I was moving and until I move and get settled I don't want to get it calibrated. Well, I moved. D-Nice, If you read this when I get this installed (courage depending ), I want you to calibrate this puppy when you make your rounds back to Bama again! Also, do I still need to pay for ISF modes unlock if D-Nice comes to calibrate?
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post #534 of 672
3/31/11 at 4:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xer0dIn View Post

Also, do I still need to pay for ISF modes unlock if D-Nice comes to calibrate?

No, D-Nice will do that during his calibration visit.
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post #535 of 672
3/31/11 at 4:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

No, D-Nice will do that during his calibration visit.

He should be doing mine in a couple weeks on his California visit!
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post #536 of 672
4/8/11 at 5:17pm
Pssst........ don't tell any one......just started reading this thread only yesterday and immediately ordered the board for my 6020 from Pioneer around ten am.
Only this morning did I read further and see the post re: some conversation with Pioneer stating the boards were no longer available. Bummer! Yet my e-mail acknowledgement(s) from Pioneer and a visit to their website didn't seem to indicate they were out of stock, so I kept checking online to see if my order status had changed. I also looked at my credit card status several times today as well, just in case. I'm retired so I have time for this nonsense.

Sometime after four this afternoon my status changed .... so hot damn, it appears it's on the way or it's in packing at least, and the hold shows on my card as well so it's not a dream.

One happy dude here.
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post #537 of 672
4/9/11 at 1:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishinbob View Post

Pssst........ don't tell any one......just started reading this thread only yesterday and immediately ordered the board for my 6020 from Pioneer around ten am.
Only this morning did I read further and see the post re: some conversation with Pioneer stating the boards were no longer available. Bummer! Yet my e-mail acknowledgement(s) from Pioneer and a visit to their website didn't seem to indicate they were out of stock, so I kept checking online to see if my order status had changed. I also looked at my credit card status several times today as well, just in case. I'm retired so I have time for this nonsense.

Sometime after four this afternoon my status changed .... so hot damn, it appears it's on the way or it's in packing at least, and the hold shows on my card as well so it's not a dream.

One happy dude here.

Please do tell if you get it because I'd like to order one for my 6020 as well!
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post #538 of 672
4/9/11 at 1:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dyvurcz View Post

Please do tell if you get it because I'd like to order one for my 6020 as well!

Pioneer shows the board as being in stock again now, so why don't you just go ahead and order one?

http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/...uctNum=AWW1353
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post #539 of 672
4/9/11 at 3:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnla View Post

Pioneer shows the board as being in stock again now, so why don't you just go ahead and order one?

http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/...uctNum=AWW1353

Guess it would have helped to check the site first before making that post lol. Thx for the heads up!
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post #540 of 672
4/9/11 at 8:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dyvurcz View Post

please do tell if you get it because i'd like to order one for my 6020 as well!

Shipped!
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