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Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE? - Page 22

post #631 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by trem0lo View Post

Have you enabled the ISF modes? They are significantly better than Pure, which resembles Movie on the non-Elites. Calibrated ISF day combines the accuracy of Pure and brightness/pop of Standard, it is quite nice.



I fixed it. The 151fd I have was brand new but with a cracked screen so i took the board with the hdmi connections and put it in my 6020fd and when I turned the tv back on it was at start menu. And blacks are very dark and inky and colors pop. Probably just needed a factory reset. But I'm located in the Orlando fl area is there any body near me who can unlock isf modes for me?
post #632 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by locdog33 View Post

I fixed it. The 151fd I have was brand new but with a cracked screen so i took the board with the hdmi connections and put it in my 6020fd and when I turned the tv back on it was at start menu. And blacks are very dark and inky and colors pop. Probably just needed a factory reset. But I'm located in the Orlando fl area is there any body near me who can unlock isf modes for me?

controlcal can unlock it too
post #633 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_DML View Post

controlcal can unlock it too



Don't have one
post #634 of 691
Controlcal is software that you buy online. Once you have that and the serial cable to connect your computer to the tv, you can unlock isf.
post #635 of 691
Alright, I'm planning to attempt the board swap tonight. Any tips?

I routinely work on electronics so I'm not too concerned BUT this TV would be incredibly difficult to replace if something went wrong so I'm pretty nervous about it. Still, the improvements are just too exciting for me.
post #636 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark1x View Post

Alright, I'm planning to attempt the board swap tonight. Any tips?

I routinely work on electronics so I'm not too concerned BUT this TV would be incredibly difficult to replace if something went wrong so I'm pretty nervous about it. Still, the improvements are just too exciting for me.

Take your time, it's really very simple.
I got help and layed the panel on its face. Had I decided to do it while it was upright I would have been nervous too.
The hole you drill is hard to make neat due to a membrane-like decal on the panel surface. It is sort of stretchy and skin like and would be easy to make a mess of. The layout is as easy as putting the hole in line directly above and opposite the existing holes. No need to try and mark the back as suggested in the article. This way you drill from the front and with a sharp bit you will get a fairly clean hole.
Good luck.
Bob
post #637 of 691
If you have no plans on utilizing the IR repeater just trim it down with a razor, it is a much cleaner & easy install. I have done it both ways and would always recommend this method instead of drilling. I would also suggest pushing in on the ribbon connectors while latching them down. The connector that goes to the main board can be stubborn. You need to pry it up with a small screw driver & or pliers whatever works for you. It is much easier than you think to perform this swap.
post #638 of 691
Alright, swap successful! The results are excellent thus far. I actually DID simply drill the back panel rather than working on the board. It turned out very cool and looks pretty clean.

Next step is to use ControlCal to unlock the isf modes. It seems that I have to purchase a different profile for the display than the one I was using. The one laptop I have with a serial port is running Linux now so I'll need to grab a USB-serial cable, I suppose.

Any guides on what I need to do in ControlCal to unlock the isf day/night options? Also, any recommendations on settings for a converted 5020? I have it dialed in pretty well but I'm curious to see a range of values people are using for the display after installing the board.
post #639 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark1x View Post

Alright, swap successful! The results are excellent thus far. I actually DID simply drill the back panel rather than working on the board. It turned out very cool and looks pretty clean.

Next step is to use ControlCal to unlock the isf modes. It seems that I have to purchase a different profile for the display than the one I was using. The one laptop I have with a serial port is running Linux now so I'll need to grab a USB-serial cable, I suppose.

Any guides on what I need to do in ControlCal to unlock the isf day/night options? Also, any recommendations on settings for a converted 5020? I have it dialed in pretty well but I'm curious to see a range of values people are using for the display after installing the board.

Turbe has a bundle you can purchase with controlcal that includes a straight through serial cable, USB adapter & step by step instructions on how to unlock the ISF modes. I would also purchase the 9G Kuro profile to do the auto initialize after the swap. You can use D-Nice's reference settings for a PRO-111FD, that's what I used on my 5020 E-Lite. BTW, did you purchase your board from my eBay auction?
post #640 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jano18 View Post

Turbe has a bundle you can purchase with controlcal that includes a straight through serial cable, USB adapter & step by step instructions on how to unlock the ISF modes. I would also purchase the 9G Kuro profile to do the auto initialize after the swap. You can use D-Nice's reference settings for a PRO-111FD, that's what I used on my 5020 E-Lite. BTW, did you purchase your board from my eBay auction?

Are you "jansimonsen" on eBay?

If so then, yeah, I did just buy one from you. I'll be sure to leave some great feedback for you too! Thanks for the service!
post #641 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark1x View Post

Are you "jansimonsen" on eBay?

If so then, yeah, I did just buy one from you. I'll be sure to leave some great feedback for you too! Thanks for the service!

That's me, glad to hear you report back successfully! You are welcome & thank you for the business & positive feedback!
post #642 of 691
OK, so a potential problem has appeared and I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts.

The display has been working beautifully since the swap but I ran into a weird issue last night. Basically, I was using the TV as normal and powered off. Came back 15 minutes later to use it again but this time the TV would just flash a blue light at me repeatedly. I tried the hard power switch, unplugging, etc. and it continued to do this. I was aware that flashing blue lights represented an error code and the number of times it flashed indicated the specific error. I didn't have a chance to count, though, as I held the power button down on the TV itself for a few seconds which caused it to power on as normal. I tested it quite a bit last night as well and it never faltered.

I'm concerned that this may begin to occur again. Without knowing the error code is there any way to know what might have caused this? Since I swapped the board two weeks ago I have definitely opened a can of worms, so to speak, so it could be anything. I'm hoping it was just a fluke, but that seems unlikely.

Thoughts?
post #643 of 691
You need the number of flashing lights to define the error. Without it, there are no thoughs regarding your display besides it has a problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark1x View Post

OK, so a potential problem has appeared and I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts.
The display has been working beautifully since the swap but I ran into a weird issue last night. Basically, I was using the TV as normal and powered off. Came back 15 minutes later to use it again but this time the TV would just flash a blue light at me repeatedly. I tried the hard power switch, unplugging, etc. and it continued to do this. I was aware that flashing blue lights represented an error code and the number of times it flashed indicated the specific error. I didn't have a chance to count, though, as I held the power button down on the TV itself for a few seconds which caused it to power on as normal. I tested it quite a bit last night as well and it never faltered.
I'm concerned that this may begin to occur again. Without knowing the error code is there any way to know what might have caused this? Since I swapped the board two weeks ago I have definitely opened a can of worms, so to speak, so it could be anything. I'm hoping it was just a fluke, but that seems unlikely.
Thoughts?
post #644 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You need the number of flashing lights to define the error. Without it, there are no thoughs regarding your display besides it has a problem.
Yeah, that's what I thought. If it happens again (which I'm hoping won't be the case) I'll make sure I count the number of flashes and see.
post #645 of 691
Alright, so the flashing lights appeared again. The error code consists of 8 flashes.
post #646 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark1x View Post

Alright, so the flashing lights appeared again. The error code consists of 8 flashes.
8 blue means there is a Main IIC communication problem. In other words, there is a communication problem between a component and the main processor. The next time it does it, press the display button while the panel is off and flashing that blue code. The orange LED should start flashhing a code and that will tell exactly what component is having communication issues.
post #647 of 691
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

8 blue means there is a Main IIC communication problem. In other words, there is a communication problem between a component and the main processor. The next time it does it, press the display button while the panel is off and flashing that blue code. The orange LED should start flashhing a code and that will tell exactly what component is having communication issues.
OK, so pressing display results in 3 flashes of the orange LED between each pause.
post #648 of 691
Alright, so I found a list of the error codes and matched it up with what I'm encountering.

According to the list it is a "IIC Communication line between AV-SW and MAIN" error and could be an issue with IC8001 or IC7003. I'm going to guess that AV-SW / IC8001 refers to the board which I replaced for the Elite conversion? So either something went wrong with that board or one of the connections came loose.

The fact that it worked perfectly for two full weeks before displaying this behavior leads me to believe that the board has a problem but I'm hoping it's simply a matter of a cable that was just slightly loose having an issue. Everything was connected tightly when I installed the new board but I'll have to double check. I suppose I'll start by disconnecting and reconnecting everything from this board.

If that doesn't work I'll re-install the original board and see if that solves the issue. I'm really hoping that it's just a loose wire as I'm really enjoying the improvements the board swap offered and would be disappointed if it were bad (especially considering the cost of buying that board + a new ControlCAL profile). Of course I'd be more disappointed if the main board was the culprit. At least it seems like the problem should be fairly simple to fix as it really could only be one of those two things.

On the off chance that I couldn't fix it, I was looking into other displays on the market and it seems that I would be disappointed with just about everything else out there. I would LOVE a size upgrade, but it seems that the Kuro is still on top for most everything else and I'm very sensitive to subtle improvements so I would probably notice them. If it were to die I was hoping it would wait until the first OLED displays hit the market as I'm more interested in that technology than an LCD or another plasma even.
post #649 of 691
The closest thing to a Kuro is the VT50. You are correct that the issue is a communication problem between the AV Switch and main processor. It could be a cable, the I/O board or the main board. Checking the ribbon cables then swapping out the I/O board would be my recommended steps too. If that does not work, it is probably the main board that is failing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dark1x View Post

Alright, so I found a list of the error codes and matched it up with what I'm encountering.
According to the list it is a "IIC Communication line between AV-SW and MAIN" error and could be an issue with IC8001 or IC7003. I'm going to guess that AV-SW / IC8001 refers to the board which I replaced for the Elite conversion? So either something went wrong with that board or one of the connections came loose.
The fact that it worked perfectly for two full weeks before displaying this behavior leads me to believe that the board has a problem but I'm hoping it's simply a matter of a cable that was just slightly loose having an issue. Everything was connected tightly when I installed the new board but I'll have to double check. I suppose I'll start by disconnecting and reconnecting everything from this board.
If that doesn't work I'll re-install the original board and see if that solves the issue. I'm really hoping that it's just a loose wire as I'm really enjoying the improvements the board swap offered and would be disappointed if it were bad (especially considering the cost of buying that board + a new ControlCAL profile). Of course I'd be more disappointed if the main board was the culprit. At least it seems like the problem should be fairly simple to fix as it really could only be one of those two things.
On the off chance that I couldn't fix it, I was looking into other displays on the market and it seems that I would be disappointed with just about everything else out there. I would LOVE a size upgrade, but it seems that the Kuro is still on top for most everything else and I'm very sensitive to subtle improvements so I would probably notice them. If it were to die I was hoping it would wait until the first OLED displays hit the market as I'm more interested in that technology than an LCD or another plasma even.
post #650 of 691
When I returned home it was still non-functioning. So I popped the back off of the display, disconnected all cables, and then re-seated them carefully. Upon testing I found that the display was working again. I left the Elite I/O board in place for now and reassembled the unit. I'm using it now to type this, in fact.

If the failure occurs once again, however, I will restore the original I/O board and see what happens. I couldn't see any loose cables but you never know. We'll see what happens. When it died last night it actually shutdown while in use and did not begin functioning again until I took the above steps. I suppose we'll see what happens.
post #651 of 691
Well it continued to work throughout the evening, which is nice. I really can't help but appreciate the image quality this thing delivers and it definitely puts me in a tough situation should I have to retire this set (at least until something comes along and produces a superior overall image).

Just how close is the VT50? Does it come close to matching the black levels of the Kuro? Is it more akin to the first generation Kuro (which I've also owned in the past)?

More importantly, have they eliminated the "Pansonic dithering" that has dominated every Panasonic plasma I've viewed to date? I realize the Kuro has a bit of a "dirty screen" effect when viewed from close proximity, but the color gradations are very smooth themselves. The Panasonic and Samsung plasmas have always suffered from a very distinct and severe "dithering" effect around darker colors resulting in what appear to be "flickering pixels" in such areas. From a distance, the effect isn't particularly noticeable, but when viewed up close it is highly distracting. I have not taken a good look at the VT50 yet myself so I can't say whether this issue persists but I found it rather irritating on previous Panasonic displays.

Also, how about motion? I recall reading something about tweaks made to allow for 3D on a plasma but I haven't really sat down to test this myself. When viewing a 60 frames per second source, has blurring been at all reduced from the Kuro?
post #652 of 691
If I remember correctly, earlier in this thread, someone had blue flashing lights immediately after doing the board swap which was rectified by going back and making sure the ribbon cable(s) were fully seated. Maybe your cable was not quite all the way seated after you did your upgrade and it is now that you've gone back and re-seated everything.
post #653 of 691
so what would one do if they have a pro-111fd and their aww1353 card has died and all these people who could use an aww-1352 have bought up all of the '53's and now 111fd users can't even get their tv's to turn on because they can't get this card?

- sorry just a little pissed that this card is unavailable, anywhere - this on-top of the fact that some loser at Pioneer thought it a great idea to kill their best product line and scuttle the tech all over the place and pass it off to panasonc and sharp, and scatter the engineers - it's like he had a vendetta - and didn't want anyone to ever rebuild the division. The next CEO should have his head, rebuild the pdp division and get back to it, but i digress...

isn't pioneer required by the state of California to continue to produce vital parts for at least seven years after the date of discontinuation?
this isn't just a trim piece, it is VITAL to the function of the tv.

has anyone tried putting the bountiful aww1352's into a pro-111fd?
i can get boxes of these cards for between 15 and 50 dollars - perhaps i should buy them all up, so people who need to repair their units cannot do so.

again, sorry, i just need to vent.
i worked hard to get this tv and i am very sad that while i have the ability to repair this tv, i cannot simply because the part seems to be unavailable.
i'm poor, i can't even go out and buy a tv at a pawn shop - if anyone has a new aww1353 they can direct me to at a reasonable price, please let me know.


on another note, has anyone ever seen an aww1355? if so, how is it different than the aww1353? What was it used in?
Edited by SmectorSmall - 10/14/12 at 12:17pm
post #654 of 691
I have a limited quantity of AWW1353 boards for sale for 9G Elite customers only. Due to the scarce availability of them I will not sell them to Non-Elite customers. I prefer to sell them on an exchange basis, but I will sell them outright. I also have modified AWW1352 boards for Non-Elite customers looking to perform the E-Lite conversion. I will also sell these on an exchange or outright basis. If anyone is interested, please feel free to PM me or contact me at my information below.

Thank you,
Jan Simonsen
jansimonsen@comcast.net
586-855-1305
post #655 of 691
I have a ISF Calibrator coming in in a week and a half. I have the board swapped in.
Do i tell him to calibrate it on the 6020fd? or 151fd/141fd??
post #656 of 691
He treats it like a 151FD
post #657 of 691
thanks Turbe
post #658 of 691
Is the resistor required to "convert" the circuit board from NE to Elite a thin film resistor? I looked up the specs provided in these threads, but I'm not absolutely sure it's the proper type. I ordered a few for cheap (4k 0402, according to the specs provided on this thread), and planned to have a local electrician solder it in its proper place, but I'm not for sure if I got the right ones.
post #659 of 691
I meant "10k" and not "4k."
post #660 of 691
for any who end up trying to solder your own board, the thin film resister works fine. It is absolutely teeny tiny. This was my first soldering project and I'm proud (surprised?) to say it was a success. It seems that the pads on the circuit board that one would solder the resistor to actually are made of solder material such that it made it a little easier than I thought.
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