Official KDL..EX500/501 Thread - Page 74

So if I had BD set to full the PS3 forces (remaps) the signal to full before sending it to the EX500? Would this skew calibration?

You dont want full for video/film. That setting is only for video/film. Games are always output at full.

I was offered a choice of the EX700-60 and EX500-60 refurbished as well as new to replace my 60A2000 that was on its 2nd failed OB. Sony's offers seem to be all over the place on these sets. If you read here on this forum as well as IHAD's Facebook page the offers vary by literally hundreds of dollars. I ended up settling for a new EX500-60 for $600 + tax. My manufacture date is also June 2010 as well. I tried to get Sarah Kepler give me a good explanation for the wide variances in the offers and all she'd say was that each offer was different due to each customers circumstances being different such as the age of the set, the amount paid for it when it was new and how many times the OB has failed. In one way this makes some sense however I've still read offers that were way better than mine and the circumstances sounded very similar. Oh well it is what it is and I'm quite pleased with my outcome and so far quite pleased with the set.

My finding was that you can turn RGB to "Full", but turn VIDEO OUTPUT FORMAT to "Automatic" (Press triangle during playback, and go to AV SETTINGS). The PS3 will be able to tell the difference between a BD and a game.

This gave me full shadow details during films (no crushed blacks) while being able to take advantage of the TV's full range while playing games.

Just put it on auto and forget it.

Well, I was wrong. I connected the original SXRD up to double check and you're right. That pulsing was there too. It's got to be Directv's compression.

I had the SXRD sitting further from our seats than LCD is sitting (while I wait for the swap) so I guess I never noticed.

Side by side, the SXRD looks just as sharp as the LCD (sharpness set @ 1 on both sets).

I have my 60EX700 connected to a DirectTv DVR via htmi and I do not see any pulsing. In fact, I have never heard of video compression causing the video amp of a TV to pulse the way you have describe it. I suppose there's always a first time for everything.

If you have an outdoor antenna connected, switch to that input and observe the video for pulsing. If it pulses as well, then it's not DirectTV compression causing your symptoms.

I am no expert, but it sounds to me like you may be the victim of some electrical anomaly. If you have a volt meter, measure the current in the electrical receptacle and watch the needle for large fluctuations. Just a thought.

Your SXRD must be sharper than mine...consider yourself lucky!

While Im not a fan of dtv and thier hd is quite inferior to fios and some other hd outlets. It is still ok if thats what you have.

My comments were more for the horrible copy that hbo is showing. It is horrendous. Absolutly grainy pulsing and horrid.

I hear you! I do not watch HBO or any other movie channel, so I can't comment on that. I saw FIOS for the very first time last Saturday at my brother's house. He was showing me his new 60" Kuro in his bat cave. Wow! What a combination. Unfortunately, the only way to get FIOS for me would be to sell our home and move to one of our neighboring cities served by Verison.

My son tried local cable and had it disconnected within a week, it was that bad! He switched to DirectTV and is now with AT&T Vue. Since his TV's are all 720P he sees no difference in PQ.

Prior to DirectTV, I was with DishNet and switched this past Spring when it became obvious they were not going to carry MLB Network. Generally, I don't see much of a difference in PQ between the two. I do see a variation in PQ between channels. For instance, most of the time the ESPN Sunday Night Baseball usually has a far superior PQ than almost everything else. Same with some NFL games. Sometimes the PQ in MLB baseball games appear as good as ESPN games. Some live shows here and there have pretty good PQ. However, I don't see as many washed out over-compressed channels as I used to see on Dish. It's not like in the days when we had 10 foot dishes...

It looks as though initial readings and calibration for my 55EX500 were WAY off. Not sure what happened but the Eyeone sensor was defiantly giving me false readings. I have done a new pre calibration reading (attached) and as you can see it is VERY accurate to 6500, with the exception of the very bottom of the grey scale. I suspect this is related to the inability of this panel to display really deep blacks.

So unless there is a way to smooth out the lower end of the grey scale I guess this is as close to perfect (6500) as I'm gonna get.

These are my CURRENT SETTINGS and the settings used while taking initial readings (attached below)

Picture Mode- Custom
Backlight-1
Picture- 89
Brightness- 52
Color- 50
Hue- 0
Color Temp- Warm2
Sharpness- 1
Noise Reduction- Off
MPG Noise Red- Off
MotionFlow- Standard
Cinemotion- off
Ambient Sensor- Off

Advanced Settings
Adv Contrast Enhancer- low
Black Corrector- low
Gamma- 0
Clear White- Off
Live Color- Off


White Balance
RGain 0
GGain 0
BGain 0
RBias 0
GBias 0
BBias 0

 

55EX500_BEFORE_CAL_WARM2.zip 1.517578125k . file

Ok, I'm posting my settings. I have a few of them, because I think there's not one best setting for all sources. These settings are for the european 40EX500 (S-PVA panel, Bravia Engine 3 image processor), with slightly tweaked hdtvtest.co.uk professional calibration for this model. I am not sure if and how this complies with non-european EX500 sets, but it's working great for mine.

SD/HD cable television

Picture Mode- Custom
Backlight- 4
Picture- 92
Brightness- 48
Color- 55
Hue- 0
Color Temp- Warm1
Sharpness- 8
Noise Reduction- low
MPG Noise Red- Off
MotionFlow- Standard
Cinemotion- Aut.2 / OFF

Advanced Settings
Adv Contrast Enhancer- OFF
Black Corrector- low
Gamma- -1
Clear White- low
Live Color- Off

White Balance
RGain -1
GGain -1
BGain 0
RBias 0
GBias -3 (eliminate greenish cast in dark shadows)
BBias -2 (eliminate bluish cast in dark shadows)

Additionally, when watching movies at night, sometimes I turn theatre mode ON (orange button on the remote controller), which has color temperature warm2 and reduce backlight to min-2.



HD cinematic movies (blue-rays, laptop)

Picture Mode- Cinema (theatre orange buttun)
Backlight- 5 during a day, min-2 at night
Picture- 90
Brightness- 50
Color- 52
Hue- 0
Color Temp- Warm2
Sharpness- 2
Noise Reduction- low / OFF (depending on the content)
MPG Noise Red- Off
MotionFlow- Standard / OFF
Cinemotion- Aut.2 (helps to keep cinematic motion when using 100hz motionflow)

Advanced Settings
Adv Contrast Enhancer- OFF (sometimes I switch to low, especially in a very dark movies like Harry Potter etc - helps to see more detail in the shadows)
Black Corrector- low
Gamma- 0 / -1 (depending on the backlight)
Clear White- low
Live Color- Off

White Balance
RGain -2
GGain -1
BGain 0
RBias -1
GBias -2 (eliminate greenish cast in dark shadows)
BBias -2 (eliminate bluish cast in dark shadows)


HD animated movies (Ice Age, Toy Story, Shrek, etc), nature programmes (BBC planet earth, Life series, Oceans, etc), concerts

Picture Mode- Custom
Backlight- 8 (5 at night)
Picture- 92
Brightness- 50
Color- 62
Hue- 0
Color Temp- Warm2
Sharpness- 5
Noise Reduction- low / OFF (depending on the content)
MPG Noise Red- Off
MotionFlow- Standard
Cinemotion- Aut.2 (helps to keep cinematic motion when using 100hz motionflow at the same time)

Advanced Settings
Adv Contrast Enhancer- OFF
Black Corrector- low
Gamma -1
Clear White- low
Live Color- Off

White Balance
RGain -2
GGain -1
BGain 0
RBias -1
GBias -2 (eliminate greenish cast in dark shadows)
BBias -2 (eliminate bluish cast in dark shadows)


Hope it helps

Im not sure, the chart you just posted says before calibration. This one looks good. If thats the +1 then its good.

I'm 100% enjoying these WB settings as far as my request for whiter whites:

White Balance-
RGain -4 (instead of 6)
GGain -1 (instead of 2)
BGain 0
RBias -2 (instead of 5)
GBias -3 (instead of 5)
BBias 0

And as a bonus I'm back in the WARM 2 temp. club..... Lovin' it

Watched a Warren Miller'ish skiing movie (2001) last night on RUSH-HD and the snow on all the scenes looked 'real' white (and not over-blue), skin tones were spot on, and the colors of the ski jackets = all the colors of the rainbow were excellent.

I'm a turbo Newb as far these forums go (5 post ALERT) but these WB + TEMP settings for me are the BOMB ! <---- yeah i'm an ancient old man at 36

What's your take on these settings SerialMike ? Are they garbage or.....a workable compromise ?

I bought the Costco model of this TV for me and my wife back in April when our good old Projection CRT died. Unfortunately I did not get to test the tv out much as I have had to work away from home most of the summer. Buying this tv was kind of a stretch for us, so I didnt have anything besides an upconvert DVD player to test with it until recently when I got my hands on a PS3. I did notice some blur before the ps3 but tried to attribute it to other factors (compression or not native resolution), but getting the ps3 really brings the issue into focus. After hooking it up I notice that the blur is extremly bad on just about every setting I have tried the tv on. This is especially noticeable on a side scrolling video game, or on a movie if the screen pans from side to side (very noticeable on animated). It is also noticeable when somones face fills the screen and moves back and forth. I have tried the setting the motion flow from off to high, but honestly I'm not sure there is any difference between any of the settings. Setting Cinemotion to Auto 2 seems to help for movies, but creates this wierd effect (think its what people call the soap opera effect), and does not help enough for games. This is our first HD LCD tv, so I guess my questions are.......is this normal for an LCD TV? Could there be something wrong with this thing? Could it need some sort of calibration? Are there some sort of settings that would be good to try? Did the Costco models use LCD screens of inferior quality?

So far I have been extremly dissapointed with this TV, I really expected more, and thought we were safe spending more on a 120 hz blur reduction and a name brand. I kind of feel like I blew away my money right now. It seems looking on the internet that no one else has these issues with this tv though...

Its hard to say with certainty. Settings can be a little different set to set. Though I would say that those changes make you farther from proper white balance.

The settings I posted are already slightly low though close enough on blue. In essence your boosting or putting more green and red back into the grayscale. Though again if it pleases you thats all that matters and you seem pretty happy.

Rugdocta, could you do me a favor? I need you to test these settings and let me know what kind of readings you get from your meter:

Picture settings:

Same as yours.

Advanced Settings:

Advanced Contrast Enhancer: Low
Black Corrector: Low
Gamma: 0
Clear White: Low
Live Color: Off


White Balance:

RGain: 0
GGain: 0
BGain: 0
RBias: 0
GBias: 0
BBias: 0

Thanks in advance.

Sure, Ill try to get to it tommorrow. From what I have read it might boost the Blue end towards a "Cool" type setting.

It's a very interesting setting because it only seems to affect white itself without affecting anything else regarding color temperature. Normally you'd have to make the picture more blue in order to get whiter whites, but this setting lets you keep Warm 2's natural look and removes some of the yellow tint from whites that is present in default Warm 2. I'm liking the setting so far but I'm not sure how accurate it is in regards to D65. That's where you come in. Thanks.

Those settings seems very good and quite similar to mine. Setting Gbias and Bbias to minus is crucial in S-PVA sets in order to get rid off the green and blue hues in dark shadows, which is a very common issue in S-PVA (not only Sony EX500). Serialmike's callibration is specifically for Sharp UV2A panel model (only 60EX500) so it won't fit for S-PVAs. They are totally different panels with different factory calibration.

Ya know what, Im going to give this a run today. This is aa very interesting thought. And it just might work.

Edit-Under further comparison. Clear white boosts the light end of the scale. When you adjust to get proper light end of the scale. It further ruins the low end.

Clear white is not a good choice imo for accuracy.

Maybe, but it is not noticable at all. I don't see any other differences between clear white OFF/low other than actually making whites whiter when on LOW. Clear white is the only feature that can greatly improve whites when using warm1 and warm2 color temperatures.

Quick question:

My 60ex500 is being delivered today (refurb replacement for SXRD). The shipping guy called to confirm, and said that one of the bottom corners of the box was "a little pushed in".

The set is packaged as new (box, packing materials identical). So, for those who remember, how is the set packed inside the box, particularly in the corners? I presume there's ample styro protection.

Just wondering in case I have any (ANY) problems with it.

[BTW: it's noted on their manifest, I'm taking pics when it gets here, and Sony's already notified of the carton damage.]

Sorry, I didn't understand. You're saying that Clear White ruins the low end on a calibrated light end? If so, I was referring to using Clear White on the default uncalibrated settings as by default it's known to be a little red on Warm 2.

Also, I didn't catch your post before you edited this one.

I've stuck with my original settings above, however I still fiddled around all weekend and after a while I figured out my biggest issue: MotionFlow! I turned that off and everything looked so much better!

Leaving that on at any level made everything look kind of waxy and weird. It was absolutely horrible and now, with it off, films look like film again!

Anyone else working with MotionFlow off, or do I just have weird eyes?

KT

Just where is White Balance Nirvana....this is starting to make me dizzy!

Powerknowledge, I have a 46EX500 and I recently unpackaged it. There is firm styrofoam in all four corners and a small styrofoam in the center. I'd be more concerned if something penetrated not in the corners, because the middle portion is just relying on the air gap (space) to protect it.

[quote=Joey O;18997593]
Yep, I agree with all of this. I just got mine last week and had to drive it home in a regular-sized car. The corners were all fine, but the middle made me a little nervous. We just put some extra packing under it to protect as we were transporting it on its back in the car.

KT

Thanks, JO & KT!