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Official KDL..EX500/501 Thread - Page 205

post #6121 of 6155
12/11/12 at 10:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sl@cker View Post

When connecting a blu-ray player to the EX500, do you guys do RGB out or ycbcr out?

RGB: Set for HDMI-compliant displays. Displays games and videos in RGB format.

YCbCr709: Typically used for high-definition movies.

YCbCr601: Typically used for standard-definition movies.
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post #6122 of 6155
12/11/12 at 11:17am
I know that's what the definitions are, but I've heard arguments for using RGB.
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post #6123 of 6155
12/12/12 at 9:52am
Also, does anyone know if the EX500 accepts ycbcr 4:4:4 ?
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post #6124 of 6155
12/13/12 at 9:51am
And I read a post saying the EX500 accepts full RGB range (0-255). Is this correct?
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post #6125 of 6155
12/15/12 at 8:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sl@cker View Post

And I read a post saying the EX500 accepts full RGB range (0-255). Is this correct?
It's been awhile but I seem to remember that when setting up my 60 EX500 to my Oppo bluray player and experimenting with the different settings, the one setting that caused a noticable degradation was the RGB setting in the Oppo. Like I said, it's been awhile and I'm going off memories that are two years old.

FWIW; I have my Oppo set at ycbcr 4:4:4 and the picture looks fabulous.smile.gif
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post #6126 of 6155
12/19/12 at 7:23am
Just curious, does anyone else use the "graphics" setting for viewing movies? The picture has that really clean, almost monitor look that I prefer.
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post #6127 of 6155
1/4/13 at 9:08pm
What is the "graphics" setting?
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post #6128 of 6155
1/4/13 at 9:32pm
Any good recommendations on a TV Mount for the 55ex500? I am thinking of mounting mine on the wall now but never bought one before.
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post #6129 of 6155
1/6/13 at 1:39am
Hello, I have a 40EX500, I wanted to know if the optical output of the TV brings a sound dolby 5.1 (I would like to connect a headphone surround)
thanks
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post #6130 of 6155
1/7/13 at 6:45pm
It can be 5.1 if the source is 5.1.
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post #6131 of 6155
1/8/13 at 11:59pm
ok thanks
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post #6132 of 6155
2/7/13 at 7:01pm
If I sell my 55EX501, what do you think I could expect to get for it. It is in excellent condition. I have not seen one for sale on ebay so it is hard to get a feel for what a used one would sell for. Thanks.
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post #6133 of 6155
2/8/13 at 5:15am
Try checking your local craigslist for similar models. If not, compare other 55" TV's with similar age and keep the current new 55" prices in mind.
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post #6134 of 6155
2/8/13 at 5:52am
Thanks for the suggestions. Those are good ideas.
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post #6135 of 6155
2/23/13 at 5:03pm
Hi All,

I've just picked up a second hand 32ex500 and am mostly happy with it.

My issue is trying to use HDMI to connect to my HTPC. The picture is great, but I need to be able to connect analogue audio through the 3.5mm stereo plug, as the HTPC (which is a laptop) has a display port and it does not support audio.

So... here's what is happening...
Video: Display Port --> DP/HDMI Adapter --> HDMI Cable --> TV
Audio: 3.5mm headphone socket on computer --> "PC/HDMI 4 Audio In" 3.5mm stereo socket on TV

The video works fine, but there is no sound. The sound DOES work if the HDMI cable is not plugged in, so it seems to me that the TV is detecting an audio input on the HDMI cable and disabling the 3.5mm stereo. I've searched all the menus in the TV hoping for a way to manually select the analogue audio, but couldn't find one. As suggested in a few forums, I have also been through all my audio settings/driver setup on Windows 7 to make sure there isn't a digital audio output (there isn't).

Anyone got any ideas? I can make do by using a VGA cable for now, but would like to go to HDMI if possible.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
Steve
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post #6136 of 6155
2/24/13 at 6:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehendo View Post

Hi All,

I've just picked up a second hand 32ex500 and am mostly happy with it.

My issue is trying to use HDMI to connect to my HTPC. The picture is great, but I need to be able to connect analogue audio through the 3.5mm stereo plug, as the HTPC (which is a laptop) has a display port and it does not support audio.

So... here's what is happening...
Video: Display Port --> DP/HDMI Adapter --> HDMI Cable --> TV
Audio: 3.5mm headphone socket on computer --> "PC/HDMI 4 Audio In" 3.5mm stereo socket on TV

The video works fine, but there is no sound. The sound DOES work if the HDMI cable is not plugged in, so it seems to me that the TV is detecting an audio input on the HDMI cable and disabling the 3.5mm stereo. I've searched all the menus in the TV hoping for a way to manually select the analogue audio, but couldn't find one. As suggested in a few forums, I have also been through all my audio settings/driver setup on Windows 7 to make sure there isn't a digital audio output (there isn't).

Anyone got any ideas? I can make do by using a VGA cable for now, but would like to go to HDMI if possible.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
Steve

There are USB based gadgets that can generate digital sound. I have one of these (it's pretty old). Mine is a "Xitel MD PORT DG2". You connect that to the laptop, set sound out to it, then plug an optical cable between it and the TV (I assume the TV has a Toslink). Now I don't know whether this is still available or not, but it works just fine. This is one possible solution.

I'm pretty sure that the PC Sound input you see is really for the PC VGA input, not for an HDMI. If you are willing to use a PC video cable instead of HDMI, then the sound input will likely work, but you can't get HD.
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post #6137 of 6155
2/24/13 at 11:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehendo View Post

Hi All,

I've just picked up a second hand 32ex500 and am mostly happy with it.

My issue is trying to use HDMI to connect to my HTPC. The picture is great, but I need to be able to connect analogue audio through the 3.5mm stereo plug, as the HTPC (which is a laptop) has a display port and it does not support audio.

So... here's what is happening...
Video: Display Port --> DP/HDMI Adapter --> HDMI Cable --> TV
Audio: 3.5mm headphone socket on computer --> "PC/HDMI 4 Audio In" 3.5mm stereo socket on TV

The video works fine, but there is no sound. The sound DOES work if the HDMI cable is not plugged in, so it seems to me that the TV is detecting an audio input on the HDMI cable and disabling the 3.5mm stereo. I've searched all the menus in the TV hoping for a way to manually select the analogue audio, but couldn't find one. As suggested in a few forums, I have also been through all my audio settings/driver setup on Windows 7 to make sure there isn't a digital audio output (there isn't).

Anyone got any ideas? I can make do by using a VGA cable for now, but would like to go to HDMI if possible.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,
Steve
HDMI supports both the video and audio signals coming from the source. I don't believe it is possible to have both the selected HDMI input AND an analog input running simutaneously. As WaltN46 stated, you may have to re-think your laptop's output strategy in order to accomodate both video and audio in your situation. One thing to note here is the fact that because you are playing video on a 32" TV, the loss in picture quality won't be near as severe as it might be on a much larger display, so the VGA option may be your best work-around.
Another alternative might be to run your HDMI cable to the TV and a seperate analog cable to a small stereo or soundbar. That would give you the best of both worlds........ high def video and improved sound.
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post #6138 of 6155
2/25/13 at 2:40am
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the responses. I was hoping for a simple solution, but as you rightly say the picture quality on the 32" isn't really affected by the VGA cable, so I guess I'll have to stick with that.

I'm still not entirely convinced there isn't an option to have separate audio from the HDMI, as the 3.5mm stereo socket is marked on the back of the TV as "PC/HDMI 4 Audio". But it seems there is no way to force the TV to use this audio input.

It looks like some Sony TVs have this option, but I can't find this menu on my TV.
http://www.sony-asia.com/microsite/bravia_i-manuals/FY11/GA/eng/CX520_DS/st_audiosource.html

This does seem like quite a oversight to me, as I think it is quite foreseeable that people would want to connect non-audio HDMI connections (eg. DVI).

Thanks again... and if anyone has any more ideas I'll happily listen to them smile.gif

Regards,
Steve
Edited by stevehendo - 2/25/13 at 2:48am
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post #6139 of 6155
2/26/13 at 11:02am
Hi All - thought I'd share my recent experience: I bought my 60EX500 back in Jan2011, over 2 years ago now and have absolutely enjoyed it. Until I recently upgraded to one of the new Vizio 70" LED's (I thought it was time and the Super Bowl sales made it impossible to resist). After going thru 4 of them (for different defects), I ended up back with my Sony 60EX in the Living room. And let me tell you, I couldn't be happier! Not sure if it's LED technology or the Vizio panels, but PQ was well below that of this Sony. Blacks were not deep and dark, motion blur was a huge issue as was clarity in the image. And I had the Vizio at optimum settings as per these AVS forums. I guess the Sony PQ has spoiled me and it's going to take a darn good TV to replace it. I've since tweaked the Sony settings and got the image even better than it was before. So I know these TV's are now considered "old technology", with slimmer and newer LED's taking over, but I couldn't be happier with the PQ on this set. Here's hoping I can get another 2-3 years out of it before I'm forced to upgrade (maybe to 4K?) cool.gif

BTW - I now like and prefer the Motionflow & Cinemotion "ON" for video games. Also Noise Reduction set to "Low". It's cleaned up the image and really makes it clear and detailed, almost 3D looking. However, I keep these settings "OFF" for watching regular TV or movies.
Edited by BDUB619 - 2/27/13 at 9:46am
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post #6140 of 6155
3/12/13 at 9:19am
I have a few dark areas that go in a line, they're very visible when the screen is white or a bright color. Anyone have any home remedies for this, before I have to shell out cash to a repair company?
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post #6141 of 6155
3/13/13 at 10:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sl@cker View Post

I have a few dark areas that go in a line, they're very visible when the screen is white or a bright color. Anyone have any home remedies for this, before I have to shell out cash to a repair company?

Off angle viewing or head on? I have some very faint dark clouding towards the top of the screen (maybe dust that's come in over the years from the vents on top, settled on the back side of the screen?) but is barely noticable except on a white or light background and only noticable if I'm off angle more than 45 degrees. I cannot see it when watching TV from directly in front of it and is barely noticable at all from off angle. It's not a big issue for me but since you mentioned it, I wonder if this is what you mean? Got any pics of these dark lines? I'm interested to hear what can be done.
Edited by BDUB619 - 3/13/13 at 10:26am
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post #6142 of 6155
3/13/13 at 9:37pm
Its when facing the screen head on. Its a patchy line that goes down the top left of the screen vertically, then out into the middle horizontally. Ill try to post a picture.
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post #6143 of 6155
3/28/13 at 5:12pm
Hey
My 40ex500 have began to have a loud buzzing Sound should i rma it within the warrenty there is a Month left?
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post #6144 of 6155
3/29/13 at 7:06am
Been a long time folks. I had forgotten that I had not posted my newer settings. They are technically old now as I have been running them for a long time.

I made some changes to white balance and to sharpness and noise handling. I shall explain.

I changed my view on the white balance. In order to flatten out blue at the low end you would cause black to be very blueish. Also to flatten the line completely you would almost always end up with a pure white that had some coloration of blue or green to it. I decided that if white was pure white that my mind would much easier deal with the lower end being off a little bit and this would much less "stress" the image. Also something to note is that my scale I was using on color temp was much smaller than that you see in pro reviews. This lead to their lines of calibration looking much straighter and more even than mine. In actuality my calibrations on this set have been more accurate than many others I have seen for other sets. Anyway to me especially with an LCD nothing like having pure white look exactly as it should. this puts the rest out of sight out of mind.

Next up is the sharpness. When you use interpolation you get to negative effects. The first is noise. You might think its processing when you see fast images break up on an lcd but its not. This is the result of the interpolation process. Another effect of this is a softened image when compared to plasma or an unprocessed image. To counter this effect the default settings are usually sharpening turned up and noise reduction set to on. A better way to deal with these symptoms is to use MPG noise reduction rather than digital noise reduction. The noise created by interpolation more resembles mpg noise. Due to the added softness created by interpolation and the small added softness of the mpg noise reduction a little sharpness is added.

Eye-One LT Meter with HCFR. AVSPatterns, THX patterns
Picture Mode- Custom
Backlight-Min
Picture-92
Brightness- 53
Color- 50
Hue- G7
Color Temp- Neutral
Sharpness- 4
Noise Reduction- Off
MPG Noise Red- Med
MotionFlow- Standard
Cinemotion- Off
Ambient Sensor- Off

Advanced Settings
Adv Contrast Enhancer-off
Black Corrector- off
Gamma- 0
Clear White- Off
Live Color- Off


White Balance-
RGain -0
GGain -4
BGain -18
RBias 1
GBias 0
BBias 1

Picture size-Full Pixel
Power Save-Off
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post #6145 of 6155
3/29/13 at 7:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

Been a long time folks. I had forgotten that I had not posted my newer settings. They are technically old now as I have been running them for a long time.

I made some changes to white balance and to sharpness and noise handling. I shall explain.

I changed my view on the white balance. In order to flatten out blue at the low end you would cause black to be very blueish. Also to flatten the line completely you would almost always end up with a pure white that had some coloration of blue or green to it. I decided that if white was pure white that my mind would much easier deal with the lower end being off a little bit and this would much less "stress" the image. Also something to note is that my scale I was using on color temp was much smaller than that you see in pro reviews. This lead to their lines of calibration looking much straighter and more even than mine. In actuality my calibrations on this set have been more accurate than many others I have seen for other sets. Anyway to me especially with an LCD nothing like having pure white look exactly as it should. this puts the rest out of sight out of mind.

Next up is the sharpness. When you use interpolation you get to negative effects. The first is noise. You might think its processing when you see fast images break up on an lcd but its not. This is the result of the interpolation process. Another effect of this is a softened image when compared to plasma or an unprocessed image. To counter this effect the default settings are usually sharpening turned up and noise reduction set to on. A better way to deal with these symptoms is to use MPG noise reduction rather than digital noise reduction. The noise created by interpolation more resembles mpg noise. Due to the added softness created by interpolation and the small added softness of the mpg noise reduction a little sharpness is added.

Eye-One LT Meter with HCFR. AVSPatterns, THX patterns
Picture Mode- Custom
Backlight-Min
Picture-92
Brightness- 53
Color- 50
Hue- G7
Color Temp- Neutral
Sharpness- 4
Noise Reduction- Off
MPG Noise Red- Med
MotionFlow- Standard
Cinemotion- Off
Ambient Sensor- Off

Advanced Settings
Adv Contrast Enhancer-off
Black Corrector- off
Gamma- 0
Clear White- Off
Live Color- Off


White Balance-
RGain -0
GGain -4
BGain -18
RBias 1
GBias 0
BBias 1

Picture size-Full Pixel
Power Save-Off

Did you make any changes to your gaming settings?
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post #6146 of 6155
3/29/13 at 10:05am
Yes. these are my gaming settings. The lag of this set makes no difference in my ability to play Call of duty any better or worse online.
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post #6147 of 6155
3/30/13 at 9:33am
Yes, I would. You could try unpluging the tv from the power source and then plug it back in.
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post #6148 of 6155
4/4/13 at 7:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

Been a long time folks. I had forgotten that I had not posted my newer settings. They are technically old now as I have been running them for a long time.

I made some changes to white balance and to sharpness and noise handling. I shall explain.

I changed my view on the white balance. In order to flatten out blue at the low end you would cause black to be very blueish. Also to flatten the line completely you would almost always end up with a pure white that had some coloration of blue or green to it. I decided that if white was pure white that my mind would much easier deal with the lower end being off a little bit and this would much less "stress" the image. Also something to note is that my scale I was using on color temp was much smaller than that you see in pro reviews. This lead to their lines of calibration looking much straighter and more even than mine. In actuality my calibrations on this set have been more accurate than many others I have seen for other sets. Anyway to me especially with an LCD nothing like having pure white look exactly as it should. this puts the rest out of sight out of mind.

Next up is the sharpness. When you use interpolation you get to negative effects. The first is noise. You might think its processing when you see fast images break up on an lcd but its not. This is the result of the interpolation process. Another effect of this is a softened image when compared to plasma or an unprocessed image. To counter this effect the default settings are usually sharpening turned up and noise reduction set to on. A better way to deal with these symptoms is to use MPG noise reduction rather than digital noise reduction. The noise created by interpolation more resembles mpg noise. Due to the added softness created by interpolation and the small added softness of the mpg noise reduction a little sharpness is added.

Eye-One LT Meter with HCFR. AVSPatterns, THX patterns
Picture Mode- Custom
Backlight-Min
Picture-92
Brightness- 53
Color- 50
Hue- G7
Color Temp- Neutral
Sharpness- 4
Noise Reduction- Off
MPG Noise Red- Med
MotionFlow- Standard
Cinemotion- Off
Ambient Sensor- Off

Advanced Settings
Adv Contrast Enhancer-off
Black Corrector- off
Gamma- 0
Clear White- Off
Live Color- Off


White Balance-
RGain -0
GGain -4
BGain -18
RBias 1
GBias 0
BBias 1

Picture size-Full Pixel
Power Save-Off
Mike, thanks again for publishing your findings. Between this callibration and the one from about a year ago, I'm finding that when I double check using my Spears & Munsil callibration blu-ray, both the "Picture" and "Brightness" settings are way too high on my set. The Pluge windows actually start to show the checkerboard background which means that the brightness is way too high and black levels suffer accordingly. Also, the RGB Clipping window shows both the red and blue panel completely washed out with no "steps" visible. I have my TV in a controlled, darkened room

Just for the record, my Spears & Munsil augmented settings are as follows;

Picture - 84
Brightness - 50

Everything else is left as you have it though I keep going back and forth with the Sharpness setting as I do see artifacts on some scenes.

Randy
Edited by Torqdog - 4/14/13 at 1:51pm
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post #6149 of 6155
4/10/13 at 6:59pm
I have the 60" and recently have really been noticing lots of artifacts around white text on moving backgrounds (car commercials, tv show credits, etc...). Anyone else notice this issue? Are there any settings that can help with this?
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post #6150 of 6155
4/21/13 at 2:53am
is it just on cable/ota tv? could be compression artifacts. I also get artifacts sometimes when motionflow is set to high.
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