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Twin Towers BUILD LOG - Page 20

post #571 of 615
you're not running power through it in voltage mode, it's just detecting the voltage differential at each side.
post #572 of 615
Thread Starter 
turned DMM to ACV, fluctuates from .02 to .08
touch leads to black and white wire, went up to .1
post #573 of 615
Now test at each junction until you get back to the breaker.
post #574 of 615
Thread Starter 
one junction back is double stacked... two boxes, one in front of the other... i could only get at the front set, bad reading. junction before that 123V
post #575 of 615
Thread Starter 
I know this aint pretty, but ill suck it up in the name of heat.

receptical on bottom, pulled out for test...bad... wire goes strait up green support beam to junction 1, two boxes one in front of the other. Front wire, looks like top from pic, goes to the receptical. Rear box/rear wire, looks like bottom from angle, goes to heater. I could only test front set of wires, tested bad.



Closer pic of junction 1. top (front) wire goes down green support beam to receptical. bottom (rear) wire goes to furnace fuse box/switch. Front RED connectors pulled out to test. Bad. Cant get to rear wires.



close up junction 1, front red bad, rear yellow cant reach. assuming bad CUZ IT'S COLD IN HERE!



junction 2 measures 123V, good, of course cuz washer works. I dont care about the washer right now!

post #576 of 615
wire nuts loose, bad splice? seems unlikely tho.
post #577 of 615
Thread Starter 
this is embarassing but I must post it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7URHWOvhp8
post #578 of 615
I sent you a PM. I'll help walk you through fixing this if you promise not to electrocute yourself.
post #579 of 615
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

I sent you a PM. I'll help walk you through fixing this if you promise not to electrocute yourself.

already did it, I just couldnt take it anymore, Im gonna get a lotta **** for this but my heater is kickin warmth as I type... thank you a million times!





post #580 of 615
post #581 of 615
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post


OK OK! I PMed you about it!
post #582 of 615
Just completely remove the gfci at that "stacked" box and wire it all back up. If the furnace is tied inside after the gfci, it won't work once that's fried. It shouldn't be tied in like that, but who knows.
post #583 of 615
The GFCI isn't tied into anything, there's only one hot and a neutral to it. I'd guess the failure is in the double box or the box before that.
post #584 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

The GFCI isn't tied into anything, there's only one hot and a neutral to it. I'd guess the failure is in the double box or the box before that.

+1

I'd try the double box first. Drop power off of that line so you do get "extra warm" FIRST! It sounds as if the heater is wired WITH the outlet that is fried, most likely in the double box. I'm just taking a stab here but the wire you have floating on both ends is because it's a four wire cable and your set-up only requires the three wires. Completely normal and not a hazard. It would be for hooking up two completely different pieces of equipment, like a ceiling fan WITH a built in light. That way you can control both from an outlet (switch) and not have to reach up for the pull strings hanging from the fan.

Back to your issue though. Have you run an AC test on both of those junction boxes? Particularly on the set of wires leading to your heater and outlet. Can you take a more detailed video of what's inside those boxes?

As a funny aside, are you sure the "stuff" you were sawing through wasn't wires? Lol!


Good luck & don't hurt yourself man. We've all said our "warnings" to you about your system in the past, but this is life an death stuff man. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!

dbl
post #585 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

The GFCI isn't tied into anything, there's only one hot and a neutral to it. I'd guess the failure is in the double box or the box before that.

He took the photos down, so I couldn't recall. I just remember the double stacked box and how they could have tied in the furnace after the gfci (which could be done). Not taking account for the rest of the wiring in the basement, the furnace issue should be an easy fix.
post #586 of 615
With everything right there and easy to get to. Rewiring the basement should be pretty easy, and probably a good thing given all that is running off the single line. It's an easy job for someone like you KW. You are a wire guy so if you turn the power off and are willing to spend some time down there, you could have it done in a couple hours. We can talk you through it.


dbl
post #587 of 615
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the input guys! I didnt pull any pics, I am guessing my bandwidth got exceeded again. On holidays and weekends when a lot of people browse, they seem to go down
Its just right in here, not "extra warm"... havent zapped myself yet
post #588 of 615
Thread Starter 
because I'm a homewrecker

post #589 of 615
Thread Starter 
I was outside raking and my new neighbor walked by, I had the music up a little so i could hear it outside and I said "does that ever get loud over there?" He laughed and said "are you kidding me? Sometimes it shakes my windows! But don't worry about it man, Im never home anyway" So I should prolly keep it down unless I know he's not home... or all the other tenants over there He came in and then had to snap pics. Then i showed him the boardrd up window and told him im trying to keep it in the best I can. I had a cop here a few months ago to see if I saw something in the hood... he took pics with his phone and a video lol. asked why he doesnt have to take noise calls here all the time.
post #590 of 615
Thread Starter 
perfect_prefect showed me his sub, amazing, showed him the van and hes on his way to peep the towers. I tested The Bass Will Destroy You and the spare room door rattled atrociousely. Put some foam weather stripping in there, much better, now the two boards that seal off the window rub where they meet... tiume for some more PL PRO.
post #591 of 615
Jordan,

Try this track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgcDx...layer_embedded

Wait until you get a bit in the song and see what rattles and shakes!
post #592 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

already did it, I just couldnt take it anymore, Im gonna get a lotta **** for this but my heater is kickin warmth as I type... thank you a million times!








Wait ... is that code?

post #593 of 615
Hard to tell from pictures and the video, but I am wondering if when you "raised the roof" (sorry couldn't resist) if one of your wires was pinched into what used to be a open space because of sagging and now is jacked up tight between 2 pieces of wood with the jack you installed?
post #594 of 615
Thread Starter 
heheheheheh I am still waking up on this fine sunday morning, now I am all smiles
post #595 of 615
you mentioned you had a DMM, you ever plug that in along side your amps when playing loud sine waves? That way you'll know exactly what kind of voltage drop you are getting. A couple volts is no big deal even with good, modern wiring but if you are pulling down to say, 110 or lower that's another thing. I'm just thinking it would be good to be able to quantify it, then see the improvement when you make a change like rewiring, different cords etc.

A bit earlier someone mentioned power conditioners, my opinion on these is not to use them for something taking heavy power like a sub amp. If anything, use the power conditioners on smaller amps/receivers, BD players, computers, etc. if you have really poor power quality (which, most of us don't). Most components have some type of power conditioning (regulation) on the front end of the power supply anyway.

Maybe what you need is just some big generators to kick in when running your subs! That would really impress the neighbors.
post #596 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by vitaminbass View Post

you mentioned you had a DMM, you ever plug that in along side your amps when playing loud sine waves? That way you'll know exactly what kind of voltage drop you are getting. A couple volts is no big deal even with good, modern wiring but if you are pulling down to say, 110 or lower that's another thing. I'm just thinking it would be good to be able to quantify it, then see the improvement when you make a change like rewiring, different cords etc.

A bit earlier someone mentioned power conditioners, my opinion on these is not to use them for something taking heavy power like a sub amp. If anything, use the power conditioners on smaller amps/receivers, BD players, computers, etc. if you have really power power quality (which, most of us don't). Most components have some type of power conditioning (regulation) on the front end of the power supply anyway.

Maybe what you need is just some big generators to kick in when running your subs! That would really impress the neighbors.


Yes, voltage drop is/was a serious impediment to his amplifiers. I've posted my concerns as well when he first began tripping breakers. There's nothing like an adequate, robust voltage source for amplification devices. Even AVR's benefit. Steady state voltage drop, or instantaneous peak demand voltage drop, both play a significant role in system operational headroom.


Thanks


btw; all that said, krypt is still one of the most self-effacing, colorful, unpretentious, and interesting contributors in these parts(in a "dance like no-one's watching" kind of way)


Yepper, ain't no ordinary....





.
post #597 of 615
Thread Starter 
well I havent been on the forums for a few days (it feels like weeks) because I couldnt stand the "somethings still not right" feeling in the van, come to find out I've most likely been 1 amplifier down (therefore 1 sub down) since July of last year when i get metered.

It was great to come back to that FOH Even if I am the William Hung of the audio world


I'll crawl under there with the DMM and hook the leads right in with the speaker wire. Ive had plenty of practice with it over the last week, I kept gain matching my amps in the van- hook up some lights to some extention cords, throw them and the DMM through the port, stick an LED flashlight in my mouth, and crawl in. Disconnect all 4 subs, lay the wires in safe locations, measure amp 1 voltage, amp 2, 3, and 4.... adjust the gains on the lowest/highest, remeasure, cycle repeat.

Ah wait a sec, thats to measure voltage out on the amps... so I need to measure voltage on the outlets whilst blasting pure test tones...gulp. Where do I tap in at? Can I pull a plug on one part way out so it still makes contact so I can slip the pins in to touch them?
post #598 of 615
[quote=kryptonitewhite;20324715
It was great to come back to that FOH Even if I am the William Hung of the audio world


[/QUOTE]


You are not the William Hung of the audio world,...hell no. William Hung is the kryptonitewhite of the internet fame world!
post #599 of 615
Thread Starter 
touche, ear to ear over here
post #600 of 615
Thread Starter 
I used the "HP filter" today lolz

Was showing Brandy theDDZ motors today, which led to a vid, which led to me showing why its so easy to play loud up high vs down low. Tone Generator 30Hz, brought to full excursion, said remember how loud it is. It cant get any louder cuz the subs cant move any further. Now we will do 40Hz. Not near the excursion but louder....then the lights went out.

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