I'd love to see the quote where Arny has said that....
I'd love to see the quote where Arny has said that....
I meant in general really. WRT speakers what I mean is that if you choose a speaker with a beautiful, rare veneer finish, and fabulous-looking bits and pieces, like terminals and feet and so on, and a gorgeous overall look and feel and design, none of that will make a jot of difference to the sound quality, but it all costs a lot of money. Nothing wrong with that of course if one has the money to spare and looks are very important. Personally, for the HT I prefer speakers where very little has been spent on aesthetics and a lot has been spent on SQ (eg the M&K S150s), but for my living room stereo system I want something that looks a little better.
By all means try the McIntosh amp. You will love what you hear. It will sound every bit as good as an Emotiva XPA-5 I can assure you ;)
Ah right, sorry. I use an extractor fan - the sort you often find in bathrooms, plus fans on the top of my prepro to suck the warm air out. The amps don't run all that hot anyway.
:) That is the definition of a brand groupie :) Reviews without supporting measurements are useless - that would rule out almost all magazine reviews. It is just the subjective opinion of one person, listening in uncontrolled conditions, often in an untreated room and almost always without proper switching of the content. The reviews WITH supporting measurements show that all modern SS amps perform identically, or so close to identically that their distortions are way below what human beings can hear with their ears - that is to say, irrelevant.
I have heard the M&K 750s and would tend to agree with you.
A great value sub! You would have to spend a lot more to get significantly better IMO.
You can get IR extenders to get around the control problem. I use a Harmony remote with the wireless extender.
The Emo amps don't run especially hot. I have an XPA-3 and two UPA-2s running in a small closet that is crammed with other gear and I have no problems, even listening, as I do, at just below Reference Level. I use a bathroom-type fan extractor to extract warm air from the cupboard.
I'm still waiting too ;) No way would he have made that statement. But we could both be wrong and no doubt Mudcat will backup his assertion with a link soon...
Regardless of any other benefits of using a sub, there is one huge benefit that is inescapable:
It is extremely unlikely that the best place for a sub in the listening room is at the same location as the front speakers. The front speakers' position is fixed - by definition they have to be in the front, and they are positioned for imaging. If the front speakers also contain the subs, then also by definition the subs will be at the front, right where the front speakers are.
Now I have experimented with dual subs for years, measuring their response in-room using OmniMic and REW, and I have never found that the subs perform best when placed where the front speakers are. The proper position for subs is where they excite the room modes in the most beneficial (or least disruptive) way, and that has never been at the front. I have also never read a single post on AVS where someone has found that either.
You can download a room mode calculator, feed in your room's dimensions and observe where the modes are. If you do this, I would eat all my hats without ketchup if this shows that the best location for your sub(s) is where the front speakers go.
So this is one huge benefit for using separate subs: you can place them in the proper position for the best response, least ringing etc.
There is another issue to consider when discussing tower speakers up front. There are simply no affordable tower speakers that can dig as low as a good, capable sub. None. I have measured my dual Submersives as flat to 15Hz and only 3dB down at 10Hz. Show me a tower speaker that can do that and I'll show you a misleading set of specs. Now for music it doesn't matter too much because in music there is barely any content below 30Hz anyway. The open E on a bass guitar is about 40Hz IIRC, for example. But movies can, and do, often have content these days that digs towards single figures and there just aren't any towers that can go there.
I am in total agreement with you wrt to crappy mp3s, content that is compressed to hell, streamed content that is of lower quality than physical media etc - not to mention an entire generation which has grown up to believe that mp3s "sound good".
I'd expect that. I think you started from the position that the new amp would probably give you a real difference that you could hear (or why would you have bought it?). Expectation bias would try to make you believe that you were actually hearing a better sound. The fact that you are "not sure" is because there wasn't any real difference to hear. So sometimes you'd think there was a difference, and sometimes you'd think there wasn't. This is why blind ABX tests are so useful - they remove all this sort of doubt once and for all. If you had been able to listen to the two amps in properly controlled test conditions, you would now be sure: you'd be sure you couldn't reliably tell the difference between A and B. And if you can’t find a difference, then clearly one can't sound better or worse than the other.
Yes I know - but it didn't say what you said it said.
Yes, I read it. In fact I saw it when it was originally posted. But it isn’t saying what you are saying it is saying. Arny is saying that there is no purpose in testing a broken amplifier. These days, any amp that doesn’t, for example, have a flat response and inaudible levels of distortion can really be considered as broken, or so badly designed that it isn't worth consideration. He is definitely NOT saying what you said above he is saying. If you doubt me on this, by all means PM Arny and ask him.
Yes. He means what you believe he means and not what Mudcat believes he means. I have been following Arny's posts for a long time and I think I know him well enough to know he would not say what Mudcat is saying he is saying, wrt to ABX tests.
You really are pretty confused aren't you, Buggs. I'd suggest you do a lot more research into the differences between amps before you come to a definite conclusion. It could save you a lot of money, or it could cause you to spend a lot of money - but at least it will mean you get what you really want.
You don't need a separate 20 amp circuit if that is what you mean. Emotiva are either using that as marketing (to imply massive power from their amp) or as a belt and braces thing. In real use, you are unlikely to ever draw more than 50 watts from the amp. And most of the time, nowhere near that.
High end processors (I have one) are really a waste of money these days I think. A good AVR with preouts gives you all the same benefits and has amps which one day you might actually want to use for something or other. And the AVR costs less than the equivalent prepro. I would not buy a dedicated prepro again - I’d get a good AVR with preouts that had the features I need.