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The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 9

post #241 of 5012
I think they both try to achieve the same thing.

Although now that I really look at the charts i wonder why not one mode achieves a higher gamma. The custom one isnt even stable. I'll have to read this thread it seems
post #242 of 5012
I just got a S2 and have gone through the settings. The only thing I don't understand is the setting of "Tint: G9" in the list on the first page.

I went end to end and it is something like decimal -30 to 30, no hex values since it's not a service menu option.

Anyone?

Thanks!
post #243 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbconv View Post

I just got a S2 and have gone through the settings. The only thing I don't understand is the setting of "Tint: G9" in the list on the first page.

I went end to end and it is something like decimal -30 to 30, no hex values since it's not a service menu option.

Anyone?

Thanks!

Towards Green 9 clicks
post #244 of 5012
I have a 50" s2 and use the settings posted by D-Nice, except for the colour temperature and the tint. In stead of having it set to "Warm" and "G+9" I prefer "Normal" and leaving the tint at 0. I watch a lot of hockey and I find anything with the "Warm" setting makes the ice look too unaturally red/orange. Does anyone agree?
post #245 of 5012
So im about to start my slideshow and when i load the SD card and view the list of images, i get this:http://lh3.ggpht.com/_R4xyaKnVehA/S8.../s912/list.JPG

and i started the slideshow under normal settings just to test it out and after every color slide i got this error:http://lh6.ggpht.com/_R4xyaKnVehA/S8.../slideshow.JPG

Ive deleted everything off the SD card and loaded the break in images three separate times, and my computer lists only 20 images on the card, yet my tv lists 40 images (the slides plus the blank images).

any help??
post #246 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckchester View Post

I have a 50" s2 and use the settings posted by D-Nice, except for the colour temperature and the tint. In stead of having it set to "Warm" and "G+9" I prefer "Normal" and leaving the tint at 0. I watch a lot of hockey and I find anything with the "Warm" setting makes the ice look too unaturally red/orange. Does anyone agree?

I'm not using the exact settings you are but I had the same dilemma on my V10 when trying to decide between normal and warm color temps.
Like you I watch a lot of hockey.
Initially I was watching all programming in normal as I found this produced whiter whites but over time I began watching almost everything in warm.
For a time I would switch to normal just for hockey but I eventually stuck with warm as I found it to be a better picture overall.
I watched a lot of winter Olympics, including the hockey, in warm' and never once wished my whites were whiter.
Try leaving it on warm for a while and see if your eyes adjust to the warm setting.
If you switch color temps back and forth during a game then the difference will be obvious but if you can get over that habit and leave it on warm for a few weeks you may find the ice doesn't look as red as it did in the beginning.
post #247 of 5012
I just received my 50g20 today. I was thinking.... as opposed to opening the box and running the slides right away - wouldn't it be optimal to first 'break-in' with 200 hours of 'safe' low contrast (below50) viewing (w/ all of the known precautions - stretched viewing, no bars, no logos, yada yada yada), and then do the 100-hour slides to calibrate to D-Nice's offsets? In other words, is the break-in process even necessary after the slides (notice in the disclaimer they do not help IR)? I ask because the D-Nice offsets have high contrast values which may not be good for break-in.
post #248 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by megahog View Post

I just received my 50g20 today. I was thinking.... as opposed to opening the box and running the slides right away - wouldn't it be optimal to first 'break-in' with 200 hours of 'safe' low contrast (below50) viewing (w/ all of the known precautions - stretched viewing, no bars, no logos, yada yada yada), and then do the 100-hour slides to calibrate to D-Nice's offsets? In other words, is the break-in process even necessary after the slides (notice in the disclaimer they do not help IR)? I ask because the D-Nice offsets have high contrast values which may not be good for break-in.

You don't need to run slides or run the tv really dark either unless you feel better doing it. But if you run the slides for 100 hours consider it broke in now. The idea of only running slides for 100 hours with no other viewing is to get the same breakin as D-Nice had so his offsets should be really close for your set too.

I just have my settings to around 55 Contrast in Custom & away I go. My son is gaming on my new set too & I see no IR at all so far. I've had mine about a week and a half & am pretty happy with it so far. It's a lot brighter than my G10 was.
post #249 of 5012
That's awesome. Well I got the slides going (50% Contrast/ 50% Bright) - so I am not going to torch for a D-Nice calibration) - and I am only doing it for my own peace of mind. I think I am being way to cautious on my first Plasma! I did watch some HD channels for a bit on low contrast just to get a preview - and the picture looks alive!
post #250 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by megahog View Post

That's awesome. Well I got the slides going (50% Contrast/ 50% Bright) - so I am not going to torch for a D-Nice calibration) - and I am only doing it for my own peace of mind. I think I am being way to cautious on my first Plasma! I did watch some HD channels for a bit on low contrast just to get a preview - and the picture looks alive!

I'm not sure how anyone could think my settings will "torch" these panels when they have ABL circuitry. My panel aging settings will be no brighter than watching regular content in Custom mode with a contrast setting between 55 and 60.
post #251 of 5012
I say "torch", because the settings for the panel aging seem relatively high for 100 hours of continual use. I know the TV can take the heat, but if I do not plan on using your recommended offsets - why not age at a lower contrast and brightness?
post #252 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by megahog View Post

I say "torch", because the settings for the panel aging seem relatively high for 100 hours of continual use. I know the TV can take the heat, but if I do not plan on using your recommended offsets - why not age at a lower contrast and brightness?

Its your display, you can do what you want
post #253 of 5012
I presume I can use this burn-in procedure and following picture settings for my TX-P42G20E as well, right?
post #254 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpoint View Post

I presume I can use this burn-in procedure and following picture settings for my TX-P42G20E as well, right?

No.
post #255 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

No.

How comes?

Anyway thanks for reply, I wont do it.

I just thought that mine TV has only different label, because it is for European market, but display is the same.
post #256 of 5012
Something similar.

I presume I can use the 100 Hour Panel Aging procedure for my European Plasma P42S20E.

Also, I presume I can use the settings/values in the "TC-PxxS2 Reference Settings" for the same European Plasma P42S20E.

And last question. For the "PxxS2 Reference Settings" the Cinema mode was used. But there is also a "True Cinema" mode. How about this one?
Why was the Cinema mode used instead of "True Cinema"?
post #257 of 5012
Guess I was a lill bit wrong... Seems that S2 is different from my S20E when it comes to menu ranges.

Anyway, I came with the folowing regarding the 100 Hour Panel Aging settings:
Contrast - 100%: that means 60 for S20, 100 for S2
Brightness - 50%: that means 0 for S20, 50 for S2
Colour - 75%: that means 45 for S20, 75 for S2
Sharpness - 50%: that means 5 for S20, 50 for S2

There is no Tint, at least not without a NTSC source.
Ecomode for S20 is the equivalent of C.A.T.S. for S2 : Off
P-NR (Picture Noise Reduction) is the equivalent of VideoNR??? : Off
post #258 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by megahog View Post

That's awesome. Well I got the slides going (50% Contrast/ 50% Bright) - so I am not going to torch for a D-Nice calibration) - and I am only doing it for my own peace of mind. I think I am being way to cautious on my first Plasma! I did watch some HD channels for a bit on low contrast just to get a preview - and the picture looks alive!

Magahog certainly be as cautious as makes you feel comfortable but these tv's are not that fragile in my experience. I'm careful to a certain degree with them but I bought a tv to enjoy not fret over too. I think there is a little too much of this discussed here sometimes. But the faster you get to 100 hours the faster the phosphors settle in & that's a good thing. Most important in my view is if not running slides just vary up the viewing content & all will be fine.
post #259 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arise View Post

Something similar.

I presume I can use the 100 Hour Panel Aging procedure for my European Plasma P42S20E.

Also, I presume I can use the settings/values in the "TC-PxxS2 Reference Settings" for the same European Plasma P42S20E.

And last question. For the "PxxS2 Reference Settings" the Cinema mode was used. But there is also a "True Cinema" mode. How about this one?
Why was the Cinema mode used instead of "True Cinema"?

My settings are only for North American Panasonics. EU models are different.
post #260 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

My settings are only for North American Panasonics. EU models are different.

I wonder if there is any other settings for European market TVs...
post #261 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpoint View Post

I wonder if there is any other settings for European market TVs...

Maby you should look for European forums like this one.

You can find also calibrated settings for Euro G20 model from here.
post #262 of 5012
I just got my G20. I want to run the slides but when in THX mode I can't change my black level and how do I get into pro settings?
post #263 of 5012
The pro settings are only in custom mode, and you shouldn't need to change the black level if you're using the break-in settings.

*edited to reduce cringing
post #264 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by MooseMuffin View Post

The pro settings are only in custom mode, and you shouldn't need to change the black level if you're using the burn-in settings.

I cringe when people write this. BREAK-IN, not BURN-IN.
post #265 of 5012
I am near my 100 hour break-in with my G20 and have been following D-Nice's instructions.

My question is on the WB-ADJ Menu offsets. I was looking at the guide by Mistah_g.

In it, it talks about the WB-ADJ set to custom and then the adjusting the settings for Warm and Normal color temp. But these are for the S1 and Sadmaker's offsets.

My question is whether I should change the WB-AdJ to Custom and set them for warm and normal color temp with D-Nice's settings? Basically, how to I correctly apply D-Nice's WB Offsets for my G20. Do I change Color temps? Do I only apply the offsets to the Custom WB-Adj?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
post #266 of 5012
I have a tc-p42c2 ,comcast cable box ,getting a white noise line accross the top of the picture.On my 50" Panasonic i could go into the menu and select HDsize1or 2 . Can't find that on this tv does anyone know if its called something else.Please help.
post #267 of 5012
Should I buy the DVE disc to go along with these settings? Or does it not offer anything more than the TV and Service Menus? Thanks.
post #268 of 5012
I already posted this in the input lag thread but nobody seems to be interested (I wonder why).
The TX-L37S20 got a great result in a test here:
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/panas...0100407221.htm

They said it's one of the best HDTVs they reviewed.

Very good black levels (wow) with all other positives of IPS-Alpha. I'm just confused about the 30ms input lag.
post #269 of 5012
Panasonic TC-P42C2 Question?
I have a tc-p42c2 ,comcast cable box ,getting a white noise line accross the top of the picture.On my 50" Panasonic i could go into the menu and select HDsize1or 2 . Can't find that on this tv does anyone know if its called something else.Please help.
____________________________________________________________ ____-
Having same issue with line across very top of screen....any anybody know the cause?

Thanks...
post #270 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by szymon247 View Post

I already posted this in the input lag thread but nobody seems to be interested (I wonder why).
The TX-L37S20 got a great result in a test here:
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/panas...0100407221.htm

They said it's one of the best HDTVs they reviewed.

Very good black levels (wow) with all other positives of IPS-Alpha. I'm just confused about the 30ms input lag.

[sigh]...does no one read the forum rules anymore?

This area is ONLY for the chat on Plasma Flat Panel displays. It is to be used to chat about the display type and not to use to attack it as compared to other displays. PLASMA CHAT ONLY. NO PRICE TALK/NO RETAIL LINKS PLEASE
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