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The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 95

post #2821 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlb View Post

"You guys" act like deviating from D-Nice's recommendations is like playing with a live 220v circuit.

I had merely said that if someone didn't want to enter the SM and wasn't willing to learn to use a calibration disc; it wouldn't hurt to "try" his user settings and see if it was an improvement over the defaults (it sure isn't hard to retreat back to the defaults or any other settings for that matter). I didn't say they would be optimal; in fact, I said that I personally would never use D-Nice's or anyone else's user or SM settings.

Do not, and I mean DO NOT, use my posted reference settings unless you have made the SM changes.
post #2822 of 5012
Ok, it looked kind of weird seeing my 50PH9UK out in the trash (My son broke the glass with an umbrella last August), but I got over it, it's time to move on. My 54G25 will arrive this week. btw, if anyone needs the interface cards pm me.

I really enjoyed calibrating the grayscale of the 9UK using HCFR. What an awesome free tool. My goal now is to learn how to calibrate this new unit. I am looking for a good technical thread on the use of the service menu for calibration. I am on page 9 of this thread, and so far I can't tell if this is the right thread for this purpose. It seems more concerned with how to optimally break in the panel rather than how to calibrate it using a colorimeter.

I have been away from avsforum for a couple of years and would be very grateful if someone with more recent reading experience could point me to a few great threads to get going with the G25.

I would also like to get a copy of the service manual.

Thanks very much,

Rich
post #2823 of 5012
So, if you've never had your set professionally calibrated, and you haven't made any SM adjustments, is doing the 3.5 "James Cameron" update something that SHOULD be done? After reading some recent comments, if I am understanding, it seems like that update also addressed a problem with different RGB/YCBR grayscales being output...that seems like something that might affect a person using PS3...I will do the update if recommended by some of you "in the know," but I want to be sure that I am moving in the RIGHT direction, instead of in the wrong direction...
post #2824 of 5012
Fox,
I'm definitely not "in the know". So take my posts with a grain of salt (seriously).

I think folks like D-Nice provide a fantastic service and act as an invaluable resource. No doubting that at all.
post #2825 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox1966 View Post

So, if you've never had your set professionally calibrated, and you haven't made any SM adjustments, is doing the 3.5 "James Cameron" update something that SHOULD be done? After reading some recent comments, if I am understanding, it seems like that update also addressed a problem with different RGB/YCBR grayscales being output...that seems like something that might affect a person using PS3...I will do the update if recommended by some of you "in the know," but I want to be sure that I am moving in the RIGHT direction, instead of in the wrong direction...

+1

As a first post, a BIG thanks to D-Nice, Larry and all the others for these settings, guides and even responding to n00bs -- even if they do not read all 90+ pages in this thread (or at least search) before posting

I am at the 100+hr mark in the break-in slides on a P50 VT25.

As Larry suggested earlier, I intend to note all factory settings, then apply the JC 3.5 f/w update and note them again - and then take a shot at the offsets and then note the new results again. This will take me at least a week or more.

In the meantime, I will certainly appreciate if Nick or anyone else who run the JC 3.5 f/w - and the order in which off-sets were (re) applied - can post their results or findings as well.

Thanks all.
post #2826 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Firmware 3.5 does not change SM settings. It changes items on the Factory/Engineering level which the SM sits on top of.
Quote:
Originally Posted by airace View Post

+1

As a first post, a BIG thanks to D-Nice, Larry and all the others for these settings, guides and even responding to n00bs -- even if they do not read all 90+ pages in this thread (or at least search) before posting

I am at the 100+hr mark in the break-in slides on a P50 VT25.

As Larry suggested earlier, I intend to note all factory settings, then apply the JC 3.5 f/w update and note them again - and then take a shot at the offsets and then note the new results again. This will take me at least a week or more.

In the meantime, I will certainly appreciate if Nick or anyone else who run the JC 3.5 f/w - and the order in which off-sets were (re) applied - can post their results or findings as well.

Thanks all.
post #2827 of 5012
Thread Starter 
If you have not had your set calibrated and/or do not have any plans on using my settings, feel free to update your firmware to 3.5.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox1966 View Post

So, if you've never had your set professionally calibrated, and you haven't made any SM adjustments, is doing the 3.5 "James Cameron" update something that SHOULD be done? After reading some recent comments, if I am understanding, it seems like that update also addressed a problem with different RGB/YCBR grayscales being output...that seems like something that might affect a person using PS3...I will do the update if recommended by some of you "in the know," but I want to be sure that I am moving in the RIGHT direction, instead of in the wrong direction...
post #2828 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

If you have not had your set calibrated and/or do not have any plans on using my settings, feel free to update your firmware to 3.5.

Soooo... I'm near the end of the break-in slides. I plan on using your settings. Should I do them before or after I apply firmware updates (June MFG date) including the Avatar firmware?
post #2829 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Burns View Post

Soooo... I'm near the end of the break-in slides. I plan on using your settings. Should I do them before or after I apply firmware updates (June MFG date) including the Avatar firmware?

Do not update to 3.5 if you plan on using my settings.
post #2830 of 5012
D-Nice, thank you. I've been using your settings since I hit 120hrs on my VT25 and love the picture I'm getting, 2D & 3D. No 3.5 for me.

Again, thanks for all the replies!
post #2831 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Burns View Post

Soooo... I'm near the end of the break-in slides. I plan on using your settings. Should I do them before or after I apply firmware updates (June MFG date) including the Avatar firmware?

Thanks Nick - that's the conundrum
If we'd like the f/w update to affect 3D, AND apply D-Nice's offsets, then as he just mentioned, "Firmware 3.5 does not change SM settings. It changes items on the Factory/Engineering level which the SM sits on top of." - doesn't it go to upgrading f/w 1st and then performing the offsets?
post #2832 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Do not update to 3.5 if you plan on using my settings.

Thanks, D-Nice. That does clarify that point. What about the regular firmware updates? Does it matter if I apply them before or after your settings?
post #2833 of 5012
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Burns View Post

Thanks, D-Nice. That does clarify that point. What about the regular firmware updates? Does it matter if I apply them before or after your settings?

Either or.
post #2834 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Great question. I use 20% windowed patterens for calibration. I do random checks of grayscale and gamma with AVS709's large windowed APL patterns. Gamma measurements with windowed patterns to not tell the whole story on the 2010 Panasonics.


Thanks for validating my suspicions. My concerns started with the 2007 models which seemed to behave similarly to the current 2010 models.

For the past few years, I've been playing with the AVS709 windowed APL patterns. The question -- specifically concerning gamma measurements -- resurfaced a few months ago while calibrating a neighbor's G20.

Larry
post #2835 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Do not update to 3.5 if you plan on using my settings.

You may want to update the VT25 settings post on the first page with that disclaimer.
post #2836 of 5012
PS - So exactly what do the newly (with the new firmware) exposed controls control?
post #2837 of 5012
Hi Derek Dean,

Thanks a lot for your detailed reply. I just did not understand one particular line. you have mentioned

"What that post says is that after the 100 hour slide break-in process, you would first go into the Picture Menu."

I just go the TV so you recommend that I change the setting after the first 100 hours? If yes, how do I know how many hours i have watched on my G25?

Thanks again
JR









Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Dean View Post
The G20 and the G25 are basically the same TV, it's just that Best Buy sells the G20 and other places sell the G25. Yes, there is a slight difference, but it's not important to this discussion. The short answer to your questions is that both of those settings are meant for BOTH the G20 and the G25.

I get the feeling that the two settings your are referring to are the THX settings and the Custom settings listed in Post #3 of this thread.

What that post says is that after the 100 hour slide break-in process, you would first go into the Picture Menu. The Picture menu lets you pick from various modes...... Standard, Vivid, THX, Custom, Game...... and each of these modes lets you separately adjust things like the Contrast, Brightness, etc. Post #3 of this thread says that you should adjust the THX mode according to those specs, and also the Custom mode according to those specs.

The Service Menu offsets listed below the THX mode adjustments are completely separate from BOTH the THX and Custom modes (and actually affects both modes equally). He just happened to list them below the THX adjustments because that's how he did it...... and I can see now how it would be confusing, but the best thing to do is to think of the Service Menu Offsets as a completely different animal.

The thing to do would be to enter the Picture Menu, then change to THX mode and enter those adjustments, then change to Custom mode and enter the Custom mode adjustments, and then go into the Service Menu and make those adjustments. The Service Menu Offsets do not affect the Picture modes.......Game, Custom, Standard, Vivid, and THX...... they only affect each Color Temperature (COOL, NORMAL, and WARM). You can make separate Service Menu adjustments to EACH of the 3 Color Temps, Cool, Normal, and Warm.

I know it's a bit confusing....... even more so because in the Service Menu you will see only 3 color temps (Cool, Normal, and Warm), while in each Picture mode you will see listed 5 color temps (Cool 1, Cool 2, Normal, Warm 1, and Warm 2). The thing to understand about that is that when you adjust the Warm Color temp in the service menu, it adjusts both the Warm 1 and Warm 2 equally.

Any way, I hope I haven't confused the issue to much. The thing to do is to not be in a hurry. Let this stuff sink in and roll it around in your brain for a couple of days before making any attempts to adjust your TV. Keep reading and pretty soon it will all begin to make sense.
post #2838 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Firmware 3.5 does not change SM settings. It changes items on the Factory/Engineering level which the SM sits on top of.
Mr. D Nice, would you be so kind as to expand on your comment here? I'm quite curious to hear a more in-depth explanation as to the changes.
post #2839 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice
****UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD THESE SETTINGS BE USED WITH ANY OTHER SOURCE MATERIAL BEYOND THE PANEL AGING THUMBDRIVE FILES****

Recommended 100 Hour Panel Aging settings for North American Panasonic TC-PxxS2/G20/G25/VT20/VT25 models (ONLY to be used with Evangelo2's Thumbdrive Files!!!!!!!!)

*****Note: This procedure is designed to equally and evenly age all pixels and ensure the reference settings listed below provide maximum satisfaction. This procedure is NOT designed nor recommended to be used as Image Retention and/or Burn-in prevention.*****

Photo Settings

Picture:
Picture Mode: Photo
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 50
Color: 75
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 50
Color Temp: Cool (Cool 2 on G20/25 and VT20/25 displays)
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Blur Reduction: Off

Slideshow Settings
Display Interval: Slow
I have had my VT25 for 2 weeks. And just started doing slides for breaking in but have not done any setting changes. I have about 50hours tv watching and about 20hours of slides. Do I need to change settings to run the slides? And this firm ware 3.5. Should I update it before BB comes to calibrate? Please reply so I can Properly set up my tv (first plasma-rear projections prior).

Thanks
post #2840 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qualityair View Post

Mr. D Nice, would you be so kind as to expand on your comment here? I'm quite curious to hear a more in-depth explanation as to the changes.

I was curious of that too, D-Nice...there are more settings in addtion to the picture mode and service menu settings??

I hope that firmware version 3.5 isn't also carried over to one of the firmwares that you have to upgrade to otherwise all of us that use D-Nice's settings are screwed. I wonder what D-Nice's offsets look like with James Cameron's settings in 3D???

By the way, I've backed off my color setting down to 44 now on my VT25. Yeah, you were right, the colors were a little hot. The more I watched, the more I realized that they needed to be toned down some.
post #2841 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qualityair View Post

Mr. D Nice, would you be so kind as to expand on your comment here? I'm quite curious to hear a more in-depth explanation as to the changes.

+1

FWIW, on my set (65" VT25, October build) with firmware 3.5 it looks like the color offsets in the WB-ADJ MENU are now hexadecimal(?) with odd default settings such as "81," "80," "FF," ect...rather than zero as was the case with firmware 3.0.
post #2842 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluechunks View Post

+1

FWIW, on my set (65" VT25, October build) with firmware 3.5 it looks like the color offsets in the WB-ADJ MENU are now hexadecimal(?) with odd default settings such as "81," "80," "FF," ect...rather than zero as was the case with firmware 3.0.


The service menu values have always been in hexadecimal. The offsets to those hex values are given in decimal form.

The values in the WB-ADJ menu (the CUTs and DRVs) have never been 'zero'.

Larry
post #2843 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by mces97 View Post

Hey guys. I read the manual, and it states the tv will go off if no activity is on the side panel or remote control for 3 hours. It also says Not in use when Auto power on or On/Off Timer is set. I am not going to be connecting the tv to the cable box power, just hdmi, so can someone explain how to keep the tv on 24 hours a day, so I can do the break in slides for 4 days straight. I own an s2 model

I used the SD drive and had no auto power off occur. May be different on HDMI, but I couldn't tell you. The SD card cost me about $6 a few years ago. You should get one if you want to run the slides.
post #2844 of 5012
So I got the set powered up on Thursday, 12/2/2010 and have been running the slides since then. Now it is Monday, 12/6/2010 and I went into the SM to check the baseline settings, etc. I checked the number of hours per the instructions in Mistah_g's PDF. It said 98:20. WTF? I thought this was supposed to get divided by 256 which works out to only 9 hours. I know the slides have been running, every time I go in the room the colors change. Have I missed something in 100 pages of forums?
post #2845 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleeravana View Post

Hi Derek Dean,

Thanks a lot for your detailed reply. I just did not understand one particular line. you have mentioned

"What that post says is that after the 100 hour slide break-in process, you would first go into the Picture Menu."

I just go the TV so you recommend that I change the setting after the first 100 hours? If yes, how do I know how many hours i have watched on my G25?

Thanks again
JR

Howdy JR,
First of all, I'm not recommending that you do anything. I'm not a professional, just a guy on an internet forum. I was merely trying to explain what I saw as your confusion with what post #1 and #3 are trying to get across.

Whether you follow D-nice's suggested break-in process and settings is something only you can decide if you want to do. His suggestions are based on his professional experience, and he suggests making the "Reference" adjustments (posts #2, #3, and #4 depending on your model) after doing the 100 hours of break-in slides with his initial settings from post #1. Of course to get the best results you need to follow his directions exactly.

I do know there is a way to go into the service menu and figure out how many hours you've watched the TV (I believe it's explained numerous times in this thread), and maybe someone will chime in with that, but I don't know how to do it. I just kept tabs of my general watching times, and since I wasn't following D-nice's break-in procedure precisely anyway I didn't worry to much about hitting exactly 100 hours before making any changes.

You could use the "Search This Thread" function at the top right of this page (not the Google search in the middle top, but on the dark gray bar below it and to the right), it actually works fairly well if you try various combinations of words and search just this thread.
post #2846 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dthree_is_me View Post
So I got the set powered up on Thursday, 12/2/2010 and have been running the slides since then. Now it is Monday, 12/6/2010 and I went into the SM to check the baseline settings, etc. I checked the number of hours per the instructions in Mistah_g's PDF. It said 98:20. WTF? I thought this was supposed to get divided by 256 which works out to only 9 hours. I know the slides have been running, every time I go in the room the colors change. Have I missed something in 100 pages of forums?
Looks like I missed it. Post #663 in this thread. I'd link it but I need 3 posts before I can submit a URL.
post #2847 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dthree_is_me View Post
Looks like I missed it. Post #663 in this thread. I'd link it but I need 3 posts before I can submit a URL.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post18817153
post #2848 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
The service menu values have always been in hexadecimal. The offsets to those hex values are given in decimal form.

The values in the WB-ADJ menu (the CUTs and DRVs) have never been 'zero'.
Thanks, Larry, for the clarification. Obviously my recall of the service menu was not even close to correct.

But since we on on the topic: how would one set D-Nice's offsets (at the top of this thread) in decimal form? (And no---I'm not going to use them with firmware 3.5 but I am curious about understanding how it works.)
post #2849 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilbur_the_goose View Post
rlb,
Agreed. All I know is what my eyes see. The new firmware along with the settings found on the Panny webpage look better to me. The NFL games yesterday on DirecTV looked so lifelike that they looked like color photographs.

I had been using Post 1's settings, including SM settings. Those provided an excellent picture, but to me, the Panny webpage settings worked even better.

You certainly won't go wrong using Post #1.

Where did you find the webpage settings? Id like to try them.
I have a TC-P42U2.

Thx!
post #2850 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by o0adam0o View Post

Where did you find the webpage settings? Id like to try them.
I have a TC-P42U2.
Thx!

try http://www.panasonic.com/avatar
or
direct for North America - http://panasonic.net/avc/viera/us201...-IdealSettings
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