The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 150

Are these settings from D-Nice meant for break-in or for calibration after break in process?

W, that is correct. The break-in slides should be the only data on the SD card. Insert it into your TV, then click menu on the remote and find the photo mode. Set the photo mode per D-Nice's specs. Start the slides, but try to monitor them for an hour or so, to insure that they are in fact rotating and filling the entire screen (may have to set the screen to "full"). Many people have run the slides continuously, my GF didn't want to leave her TV running while she was at work, so she ran them when she was home and overnight. You really should read the beginning pages of this thread though, won't take that long, and is very interesting. There are many very experienced members here who are willing to help. I am somewhat new too, but did successfully calibrate her TV to D-Nice's specs, have fun,...Tom

W, use the PHOTO settings on the #1 post of this thread for the break-in period.

Thanks for the reply. Does it matter how the pictures transition from one to the other?

W, if I remember the first few whites were very similar, but when the colors start, they just snap from one to another, then it will automatically, and seamlessly start over. Just make sure they don't get stuck, or not filling the screen.

@LarryInRI

How did you get your table inserted into to your posts? Is there a secret method?

I've tried copying and pasting Excel tables but no luck. Not being able to insert a table skews the columns and makes the data much harder to read.

Do the break in color slides need to transition in random order? I have the colors transition from one color/shade to the next. For example, i have all the shades of white first, then the shades of grey/black, etc. Does it need to be this way or can they transition randomly, i.e. red, white, blue, green, etc?

W, just the way you downloaded from the web. Sounds like everything is OK, mine started with the whites. Let them run, it's fine.

Create a table in a text editor like Notepad and use tabs to separate the items. Copy and paste the table into the AVS editor. Select (highlight) the table and click the "Wrap [table] tags around selected text" icon.

Unfortunately, Windows uses the Tab key for other purposes so this work around is needed.


Larry

My son has a TC-P42S2. He plays games on it. Not asking for any SM offsets or UM settings, as it is his tv and he is happy as is.
Manufacture Date: January 2010.
His set has these factory-set SM values (which don't really match anything else I've seen here):
R-DRV: EE
G-DRV: FF
B-DRV: AA
R,G,B-Cuts: 80
Another interesting thing about his 42S2, compared to my 58S2. His does NOT have a Power button on the front of the set, but rather it is on the side.

Someone, several posts back, asked me what was the manufacture date of my TV. The answer is October 2010.

Thank you Larry for the
info.

Those are the exact same factory cut and drive values that I have on my 42S2, and my manufactured date is March 2010.

The original D-Nice offsets worked great for me. Most folks who had no issues didn't post their cut and drive values, so that's why you probably haven't seen them listed.

Maybe you can ask your son if you can test his TV to see if the WB looks better to you (no brownish whites) on his TV after the offsets. Then you'll have something to compare to.

Thanks Larry

I've lost my burn in slides folder. Can someone post the slides again for me? Thanks!!

W

W, please read the #1 post in the thread, the link to slides is there.

My son let me change his 42S2's SM offsets and User Picture settings. In his opinion he could see no difference from what he was using before (except some characters' hair color looked truer). He uses his S2 exclusively for games, and I know that games invent their own universe, so it is very hard to tell what looks "correct". But I thought the colors looked better.

What he was using before (before I changed his settings).
Factory SM settings.
R-DRV: EE
G-DRV: FF
B-DRV: AA
R,G,B-Cuts: 80
User Picture settings.
Picture Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 56
Brightness: 73
Color: 60
Tint: 6 toward green
Sharpness: 72
Color Temp: Normal
In no way do I suggest that these are suggested settings.

What I changed his settings to:
R-DRV: EE hex +5 clicks up = F3 hex
G-DRV: FF -11 = F4
B-DRV: AA -11 = 9F
R-Cut: 80 -2 = 7E
G-Cut: 80
B-Cut: 80 +4 = 84
Picture Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 71
Brightness: 60
Color: 47
Tint: 9 toward green
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm

My GF's 42S2 original settings are:

R-DRV F0
G-DRV FF
B-DRV A4

R-CUT 80
G-CUT 80
B-CUT 80

Don't know how to find the manufacture date, bought late December 2010,...Tom

Look on the sticker on the back of the TV.

Found it, thanks XBR11, manufacture date September 2010,...Tom

Hi, How do I access the service menu on a 54S2?

Hold down the vol- button on the tv at the same time press the info button 3xs on the remote.

After digging thru the first 500 messages, I think I understand how to run the D-Nice calibration process. Before I muck something up, I'd like to verify I have this right. (Note: I never found a concise document like some of the other threads. Feel free to provide a link if it exists.)

1. Download Evangelo2's Thumbdrive Files and run 100 hr burn-in using "Photo" mode per D-Nice setup in Post #1.
2. Once burn-in complete, input THK Mode settings per Post #3 (I have a TC-P54G20). Then, enter Service Menu, record original settings, then set SM Offsets for "THX/Cinema" mode.
3. Repeat Step 2 for "Custom" mode.

Please advise if I have any errors above (still in burn-in mode so have 2 days before Steps 2 & 3).

I already checked the time per Post #357, and time displays in HH:MM (no longer hours X256).

Now, a question: Why do I wait to change the SM values until after the burn-in? Does it make a difference? Or, just because that's the way D-Nice did it? (and the best results occur if I do things EXACTLY the way D-Nice did them)

I have to admit, I cheated a bit and watch the Les Mis special on PBS-HD last night. WOW!!!! It looked spectaular at 35 hr burn-in, using "factory" THX mode. Can't wait to see the final results.

TIA,
kcw

It works for me buy my problem is all is in gray, I cant go in any menu, I wont le me .. ?
Sry im new,

I'm still running the break-in slides as my G25 is still floating around 50 hours.

Anyone have a preference on which D-Nice's calibration settings to use after the break-in is finished?

Are people using THX or Custom mostly? I assume the Custom settings are a lot brighter?

I've done some light TV watching using the THX settings and putting everything at 50 and it's a bit dark. It doesn't look like the post break-in settings for THX are significantly brighter.

Do a search for mista_g. he has a walk through that gets you through the menu. If I remeber correctly, when you are in hit "1" twice and that will get you to the WB-adj menu.

I posted htis a few other places and have not received any responses. Let's see if anyone on here can help.

I have two components in the title and had a quick calibration question. I know the G25 is limited in terms of calibrating as you can do the gray scale but have no options for doing seperate colors. But I also have an NR1008 the is ISF ccc enabled and wondered if I would be able to use the Onkyo to do color calibration and the G25 for the grayscale.

I am somewhat new to calibration, and did not know if it would be worth to have someone calibrate it through the Onkyo. If someone could chime in I would appreciate it. BTW, I have already done the cut/drv offsets in the G25 SM, but am looking to fine tune it and was hoping the Onkyo may be able to help out.

Right on

Thanks

The idea is to plug in both sets of settings, and then use THX for night viewing, and Custom when there is daylight in the room. THX will be the more accurate setting, but it takes a darkened room to enjoy accurate settings.

Wait until you have applied all the SM and UM settings before making final judgments.

Finally got a couple hours today with the TV. I now know what is meant by "everything effects everything". Anyway, this is my first attempt, took about 2 hours of trying different combinations to see what the controls did. Also, I let the TV sit on with the meter attached for and hour before I started. Keep in mind I used the Spyder 3, which I understand isn't the greatest in the low ranges. I did have it set to read multiple times.

Start Offset Final
R-DRV F6 -15 E7
G-DRV FF 0 FF
B-DRV 84 +7 8B
R-CUT 80 -4 7C
G-CUT 80 0 80
B-CUT 80 +5 85

I have attached the before and after.

 

50S2_Before.zip 1.1455078125k . file

 

50S2_After Calibration.zip 1.0556640625k . file

Hi stratosaur, are your offsets correct?

F6 - 15 =E7
84 + 7 = 8B------- should it be 5B ?
80 + 3 = 7C--------should it be 53 ?
80 + 5 = 85--------should it be 55 ?

I'm not sure, looking at this chart:

Somewhere along the line, computer people decided that certain things would be easier to do if they used a hexidecimal (base 16) number system...

0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-A-B-C-D-E-F

Since we don't have a unique symbol for 10, 11, 12 etc, we use letters to represent those values. Here is a chart showing the hexidecimal equivalents from 0-255...

0 = 0 51 = 33 102 = 66 153 = 99 204 = CC
1 = 1 52 = 34 103 = 67 154 = 9A 205 = CD
2 = 2 53 = 35 104 = 68 155 = 9B 206 = CE
3 = 3 54 = 36 105 = 69 156 = 9C 207 = CF
4 = 4 55 = 37 106 = 6A 157 = 9D 208 = D0
5 = 5 56 = 38 107 = 6B 158 = 9E 209 = D1
6 = 6 57 = 39 108 = 6C 159 = 9F 210 = D2
7 = 7 58 = 3A 109 = 6D 160 = A0 211 = D3
8 = 8 59 = 3B 110 = 6E 161 = A1 212 = D4
9 = 9 60 = 3C 111 = 6F 162 = A2 213 = D5
10 = A 61 = 3D 112 = 70 163 = A3 214 = D6
11 = B 62 = 3E 113 = 71 164 = A4 215 = D7
12 = C 63 = 3F 114 = 72 165 = A5 216 = D8
13 = D 64 = 40 115 = 73 166 = A6 217 = D9
14 = E 65 = 41 116 = 74 167 = A7 218 = DA
15 = F 66 = 42 117 = 75 168 = A8 219 = DB
16 = 10 67 = 43 118 = 76 169 = A9 220 = DC
17 = 11 68 = 44 119 = 77 170 = AA 221 = DD
18 = 12 69 = 45 120 = 78 171 = AB 222 = DE
19 = 13 70 = 46 121 = 79 172 = AC 223 = DF
20 = 14 71 = 47 122 = 7A 173 = AD 224 = E0
21 = 15 72 = 48 123 = 7B 174 = AE 225 = E1
22 = 16 73 = 49 124 = 7C 175 = AF 226 = E2
23 = 17 74 = 4A 125 = 7D 176 = B0 227 = E3
24 = 18 75 = 4B 126 = 7E 177 = B1 228 = E4
25 = 19 76 = 4C 127 = 7F 178 = B2 229 = E5
26 = 1A 77 = 4D 128 = 80 179 = B3 230 = E6
27 = 1B 78 = 4E 129 = 81 180 = B4 231 = E7
28 = 1C 79 = 4F 130 = 82 181 = B5 232 = E8
29 = 1D 80 = 50 131 = 83 182 = B6 233 = E9
30 = 1E 81 = 51 132 = 84 183 = B7 234 = EA
31 = 1F 82 = 52 133 = 85 184 = B8 235 = EB
32 = 20 83 = 53 134 = 86 185 = B9 236 = EC
33 = 21 84 = 54 135 = 87 186 = BA 237 = ED
34 = 22 85 = 55 136 = 88 187 = BB 238 = EE
35 = 23 86 = 56 137 = 89 188 = BC 239 = EF
36 = 24 87 = 57 138 = 8A 189 = BD 240 = F0
37 = 25 88 = 58 139 = 8B 190 = BE 241 = F1
38 = 26 89 = 59 140 = 8C 191 = BF 242 = F2
39 = 27 90 = 5A 141 = 8D 192 = C0 243 = F3
40 = 28 91 = 5B 142 = 8E 193 = C1 244 = F4
41 = 29 92 = 5C 143 = 8F 194 = C2 245 = F5
42 = 2A 93 = 5D 144 = 90 195 = C3 246 = F6
43 = 2B 94 = 5E 145 = 91 196 = C4 247 = F7
44 = 2C 95 = 5F 146 = 92 197 = C5 248 = F8
45 = 2D 96 = 60 147 = 93 198 = C6 249 = F9
46 = 2E 97 = 61 148 = 94 199 = C7 250 = FA
47 = 2F 98 = 62 149 = 95 200 = C8 251 = FB
48 = 30 99 = 63 150 = 96 201 = C9 252 = FC
49 = 31 100 = 64 151 = 97 202 = CA 253 = FD
50 = 32 101 = 65 152 = 98 203 = CB 254 = FE
255 = FF

What do you think,...Tom