The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 155

Do meters, such as you have mentioned, help set your DRVs and CUTs in the Service Menu? I assume all these meters do tint, brightness, contrast and other such settings on the User Menu. But those are only as good as your starting DRVs and CUTs. For instance, I have Disney's WOW, but why set the User Menu choices if the DRVs and CUTs are not optimal.

XBR11,

Read the guide that I linked. All your questions are answered there.

Larry

I also use a Spyder 2 Express, with HCFR freeware, plus the GetGrey DVD and/or the AVS HD709 freeware for 1080p, with the Spyder2 hooked to a laptop running the HCFR software for measuring, and calibration DVD or Blu-Ray playing through the PS3.

(Note: these are the same links as LarryInRI sent out... because it's good stuff!]

In spite of the Spyder 2 Express being budget, I must say that the picture is WOW. Super realistic whites, blacks and flesh tones. Got to 6500K for 20-90 IRE within 3delta points and colorspace are as close as my monitor's phosphors allow.

My wife just leaves the house when I start "tweaking" a TV, but it's a fun hour or so getting everything as close to perfect as possible, using the service menu drives and cuts...

It's my favorite part of getting a new TV!

Have any of you tried using the recommended settings here in this thread, and THEN did your own calibration? If so, how much better did your picture look afterwards?

I mean, I understand taking a raw set, doing your own calibration, and seeing a big difference. But I would imagine (unless the recommended settings were really bad for you) that using the recommended settings, would get you real close, and then doing your own calibration would get it a little better, but not spectacularly better.

But I don't know, which is why I am asking.

My original DRVs are F7, FF, and 97, respectively. So my R-DRV is one off from you, G-DRV is identical, and B-DRV is some 19 off from yours.

I think that means that I can't use your offsets.

OR I just use your final settings.

What do you all think?

Hi XBR11,

Try my settings in post #4597. They are newer than the ones you just quoted and my results are better.

You could always try the offsets against a grey scale step pattern and see what you think.

I am happy with my results and can notice a difference in the PQ if I set SM's back to factory watch and then set them to what I came up with.

Best I can describe is I always thought the PQ was a bit hazy. With the SM settings I came up with, it has in my eyes removed that haze.

I only attached your earlier post in order to show your starting DRV values. I wasn't try to suggest the offsets there were better.

I very well might try your offsets, but as I said above, your starting B-DRV is quite different from mine. That leads me to believe that probably your careful calibration does not apply exactly to me.

About a year ago, I posted exactly what you are looking for. The comparison was with a 2009 X1 -- the only model for which D-Nice published offsets that year.

Oh yes, I did it again on another set recently and posted the results in the calibration forum.

When I get a few free minutes, I'll look for them and post the links.


EDIT: Here is the recent post in the calibration forum. You'll need the HCFR software to view them.

X1 calibrated on 15 Jan 2011: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post19835918

If you want only the RGB tracking data (grayscale), let me know and I'll post them in jpg format.


Larry

I don't have that software and I doubt I would know how to interpret it.

Can you summarize, please? I'm guessing it was better.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooo


I just noticed image retention on my TV!!! What should I do?

Its normal, just watch some 16:9 content and it should go away. Unless you just did a 24 hour WOW marathon.

Does anyone have the factory settings for an S2 with the manufacture date of May 2010?

If you mean the service menu values I believe they are independent of each set not just production runs. At least thats what I have always read here.

Would anyone care to share some offsets and settings if they calibrated their VT 25 with firmware 3.5! ?? I tried dnice's settings and they are just ok with firmware 3.5! thanks in advance!

I have a P58VT25. I am currently running firmware version 3.5. I used D-Nice offsets and then verified them using an i1 and the HCFR software . The setting were within 2 clicks on the cuts and drvs. The differnce would not be noticed by the human eye. I believe the difference could be due to meters or panel differences and not changes in the firmware. If you think the settings are just ok then maybe you are used to an oversaturated picture as opposed to an accurate one. Also the color space was dead on....fwiw

I was referring to the Service Menu. I did NOT copy the original HD settings but did copy the original SD settings and just wanted to make sure I had to correct settings or something close to what other sets from May 2010 had. My main issue is my R-DVR is FC and I can not seem to get a picture without muddy whites.

As you can see from this post they are all different to some extent. BDRV is the one that has the most variation so you can try all of them and pick the one that looks good to you. That's the best that you can do without paying $300 to $600 for a calibration.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20063746


EDIT: From your last post it appears that you can just copy the SD values to HD. They come from the factory with the same SD and HD settings.

Larry

Thank you for verifying!!!!!

Here are the three grayscale charts from the calibration report that I linked in post #4628 above. I'll post an explanation describing how to interpret them as soon as I have the time.

The charts show the grayscale of a 2009 X1 model 1) from the factory, 2) after applying the offsets by D-Nice, and 3) after being calibrated using my i1 LT profiled to my certified i1 Pro.

Larry

Greetings all,

First post here, please be gentle. I recently purchased a TC-46PGT24. Is this thread (with settings for GT25's) be a good match for this Costco model?

Many thanks.

hndhoward, check the #1 post of this thread (North American Panasonic TC-PxxS2/G20/G25/VT20/VT25 models). I don't see any "GT" models.

I do not even pretend to know what these charts mean, but I'm guessing that the third chart is the best of the three, what with the top color lines all matching and flat, and the bottom purple line on the bottom and flat.

What % improvement do you guess the final one is over the D-Nice offsets? Like does the picture look 10% better now? 25%?

I bought the GT25 as well and there are no offsets or settings that I could find in this thread for the GT models.

A very brief, low-tech explanation of how to read the the charts:

1. The upper half of each chart shows the level of the individual primary colors (red, green, and blue) from black (0%) to white (100%) -- the horizontal axis.

2. The 100% level on the vertical axis represents the grayscale color temperature that we want to obtain. In our case, it is the film and TV standard called D65 -- google it.

3. The object, as you correctly deduced, is to get the red, green, and blue lines to be as close to the 100% level as possible. Ideally they would all fall on a straight horizontal line.

4. The lower half of each chart shows the deviation of the colors from the desired 100% D65 level. (The mathematical relationship is not obvious so don't try adding or subtracting values from the RGB curves above.)

5. The vertical axis of this violet curve represents the deviation from a perfect match. It is called "delta E." In mathematics, the Greek letter delta is used to signify "difference." The letter "E" stands for the quantitative value of the deviation.

6. Some say that a delta E of three or greater can be seen by the human eye. Others say that a more stringent delta E of one or below is needed to be imperceptible.
-------------------

From the charts you can see that the factory settings are not that good. They show that the grayscale is too bluish green and the delta E is always greater than about seven. After applying the offsets from D-Nice, the RGB curves are closer together and the resulting delta E, for from about 15% gray to white, is always below six. At a few points, delta E is at the critical value of three. This indicates a noticeable improvement in the grayscale. After performing a true grayscale calibration, the RGB curves track each other quite well. The delta E is below two for most of the grayscale range -- from black to white.


There is no way to express the improvement in the way you asked. Applying the offsets results in a visible improvement in grayscale and that's about all I can say.

I hope this helps you.


Larry

hndhoward and Alex try: AVS Forums>Display Devices>Plasma Flat Panel Displays>Official Panasonic GT20/25 Owner's Thread. Should find more info about your model there.

Tom

Thanks, but there are no offset values for this model in that thread either. I don't think anyone has posted offsets for the GT series anywhere.

If you look in the Official GT20/25 owner's thread, a user calibrated his set with a meter and has provided some offsets. YMMV though, but if you want to try them here you go:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1206

Thanks for the link. I will look into it.

LarryInRI - Thanks as always for your great explanations.

The only last help I could use would be to wire me the money for a calibration.

Our Panny VT25 50" has lost it with 3D. The 3D looks almost as good as ever in brighter scenes, but any scene where there's a dark background there is horrible crosstalk. Crosstalk to the point where it becomes unwatchable (I canceled my Tangled 3D pre-order, because 3D just isn't "fun" anymore; not 'til this issue is resolved). Does anyone know why this would happen and if there is anything that can be done in the settings that may fix the problem?

So you don't have to ask:

It happens with both the PS3 and a separate Panasonic 3D blu-ray.
It didn't always happen.
The settings weren't changed.
It happens on all settings (custom, cinema, vivid, etc.)
It happens with all different movies on both players.
We've tried 3 different pairs of glasses, fully charged, and had the same problem.
We're sitting in the same chairs and sofas as ever and they haven't been moved (IE: same viewing distance).

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.