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The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 163

post #4861 of 5012
this may help someone with dithering. I noticed my tcp42s2 dithering certain types of blues and greens. with small kids, this was especially noticeable in cartoons. the pixels were dancing in blue skies or certain green backgrounds like grass or trees.

i checked out a couple of kids dvds like dora that had a lot of greens that dithered badly. hit pause. pixels still jumping and dancing on green backgrounds. so I figured it was the tv and not the movies.

turned on blur reduction and *pow* the dancing green pixels were gone. I tested a few others that had a few dancing blue lines in the skies and they were gone as well.

not sure why it works, but it does on my set. it may or may not help you.
post #4862 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnoldandjoy View Post

this may help someone with dithering. I noticed my tcp42s2 dithering certain types of blues and greens. with small kids, this was especially noticeable in cartoons. the pixels were dancing in blue skies or certain green backgrounds like grass or trees.

i checked out a couple of kids dvds like dora that had a lot of greens that dithered badly. hit pause. pixels still jumping and dancing on green backgrounds. so I figured it was the tv and not the movies.

turned on blur reduction and *pow* the dancing green pixels were gone. I tested a few others that had a few dancing blue lines in the skies and they were gone as well.

not sure why it works, but it does on my set. it may or may not help you.

I experience the same thing sometimes with blues and greens. I've even had my set calibrated with a meter. Only way I've found to remove this is to enable Blur Reduction, and this is why the feature is always on for me now.

I first noticed it while watching "Hobo with a Shotgun" during the blue sky scenes (this movie has a ton of blue in it as well). I also noticed it while watching "I Am Number Four", during the scenes where he uses the blue light power from his hands.
post #4863 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

I experience the same thing sometimes with blues and greens. I've even had my set calibrated with a meter. Only way I've found to remove this is to enable Blur Reduction, and this is why the feature is always on for me now.

I first noticed it while watching "Hobo with a Shotgun" during the blue sky scenes (this movie has a ton of blue in it as well). I also noticed it while watching "I Am Number Four", during the scenes where he uses the blue light power from his hands.

I also want to add that without the dancing or shimmering pixels, I have been able to turn up the contrast in cinema mode with dnice service menu settings without any issues.
post #4864 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy View Post

As I stated back in the thread, D-Nice contacted me and had this to say:

" Im glad to hear you are still enjoying your display. Please do not install 3.5 as it will definitely void your calibration. Panasonic will be coming out with another update that will not damage your calibration."

Notice he says that "Panasonic will be coming out with another update that WILL NOT damage your calibration". I think we may be giving Panasonic to much credit for a well thought out FW release.

:lurk:
post #4865 of 5012
Anyone else finding the S2 extremely over saturated looking, even when dialing in the color with a blue filter? In custom, I get a result of "45" for color after dialing it down to the correct point with a blue filter.

However, I feel like everything looks quite over saturated, and in result it makes the picture soft. I find "40" to be ideal when dialing it down farther by eye. This goes for all sources, Blu ray, xbox360, directv.

Compared to my Apple displays and another LCD tv I have in the house, my Panasonic plasmas are way over saturated when using a blue filter.

What does the meter say?
post #4866 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by CalWldLif View Post

:lurk:

Was that 3.5 fw fix ever officially released for 2010 models ? I know there was a link floating around for the European site but not one for NA models to my knowledge.
post #4867 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by redwolf4k View Post

Anyone else finding the S2 extremely over saturated looking, even when dialing in the color with a blue filter? In custom, I get a result of "45" for color after dialing it down to the correct point with a blue filter.

However, I feel like everything looks quite over saturated, and in result it makes the picture soft. I find "40" to be ideal when dialing it down farther by eye. This goes for all sources, Blu ray, xbox360, directv.

Compared to my Apple displays and another LCD tv I have in the house, my Panasonic plasmas are way over saturated when using a blue filter.

What does the meter say?

On my S2 with my blue filter and AVS HD 709 disc, the correct setting was 47 color and +9 tint.

Using my meter, my set was drastically different than other people's settings. I had to dial down my color to 38 and put my tint at +8 with my meter. Also my WB offsets were totally different (my set was reading high on red and low on blue) than other settings posted here.

Even with my set calibrated, the primaries and secondary gamuts are off since there is no CMS on this set. My Red gamut is oversaturated and my green is undersaturated, while blue is almost spot on. (this is with my set calibrated with my meter + HCFR + AVS HD 709 and window patterns)
post #4868 of 5012
just finished rereading this thread.
Forgive the post, it is long.

I hate to say it but, I still have not found a general setting that works on all channels of
a STB. I don't know if the TV has failed or the
1st black rise @600hrs
affected something.
Generally I am seeing
a blochiness on faces.
In THX mode the brighter scenes are really good. mid level bright scenes are really good. It is the low bright
scenes where faces get
patchy looking and not
sharp.
In Custom mode the opposite is true.
Bright muted, Mid good, low really good.
WTH?
I read too high a contrast can cause this?
Well, I am using 53 contrast.

I like old Black and white shows and really see some strange things.
THX mode does indeed
make faces look like there is too much contrast, like when using a CRT.

I checked the setting with AVS709 and every looks nice. Even the grayscale is perfect.
Seems the aging has balanced the scale.
After my slide breaking in and D-Nice offsets I had a slight green at
30IRE and a slight red at
80IRE. Now it is a sweet
grayscale.

I know I am late to this party, I bought my VT25
in Feb. So 4-5 mos ago.
Seems the VT30 is getting all the post time.
I am wondering how some of you longtime owners are doing.
Did you see the B rise?
Has the set changed?
Any break downs?
Any strange things?


Quote:
Originally Posted by dpjb View Post

I do my own calibrations with Chromapure and an EyeOne Display 2 Lite, so I went ahead and applied the 3.5 firmware update and re-did my calibrations for THX mode and ISFNight.

2D calibrates just as well as it did before. I set both THX and ISFNight to about 30 ftL. The biggest difference I see between the two is ISF doesn't clip anything on the Spears and Munsil clipping pattern while THX does slightly. The gamma curve is flatter on THX, but I think I like the overall picture better with ISFNight.

For 3D, I use the cinema mode and custom using the Cameron settings. I generally liked the way the 3D modes looked; they definitely looked better than before. However, I feel the Cameron settings have too much dithering as a result of having the panel level set to high. If I switch the panel level to mid, it looks better, but not sure what affect that has on the accuracy of the settings. Of course, I have no way of calibrating the 3D modes at this point so I'm using them as is and hoping they are at least in the ball park.

The only other thing I think I've noticed with the new firmware is a change in the floating blacks. They seem less noticeable. I can't figure out if I'm imagining it or not. It looks like it takes longer to kick in than it did before when a dark scene fills the screen. So it seems to occur less often because the scene changes before it kicks in. Or maybe it just changes by a smaller amount. I would be interested if anyone else has noticed anything like this.

Hmm, I still have not
decide whether the 3.5
is right for me. I would hate to regret it.
The FB issue possible fix
is curious.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoLows121780 View Post

I came across the following comment at the TweakTV website...

This is the Achilles heal of the TC-P58VT25. While blacks are very deep and inky, in the user menu in THX mode at least, which is the most color accurate of the picture modes, the panel begins to clip white at a Contrast setting of only 46, which yielded a paltry 17 fTLs (55 cdm2) peak light output. The TC-P58VT25 when tweaked in the User menu is not capable of acceptable light output for a well controlled environment on a flat panel, let alone your average living room where most flat panels are used. This is more like the light output we strive for in a dedicated front projection home theater that is completely black.
However, using the ISF ccc interface with ControlCal, I was able to get Contrast to 75, which yielded a more acceptable 27 fTls (87 cdm2) of peak light output. Unfortunately, this lack of light output limits the panel's contrast ratio significantly. The lack of acceptable light output also negates the whole concept of implementing an ISF Day and ISF Night mode. At the maximum Contrast setting of 75 with no clipping, the panel barely achieves enough light output for a compelling ISF Night mode. Therefore, it is not possible to create a Day mode with sufficient light output without severe clipping of white with a major loss of detail.


Can someone elaborate on this??? Also what is available through ControlCal that enables better light output? Can these setting be accesed through the service menu? I ask because I cannot get a good contrast reading using the S&M calibration disc.....

http://www.tweaktv.com/quick-looks/p...ever-made.html

I might be experiencing
this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebs View Post

I'm not sure if this is the right place, but I just wanted to describe my warranty repair experience with my less than 2 month old TC-P50S2.

Last week I noticed that skin tones weren't even - they had "blotches" of red and green, and certain white backgrounds had red areas.
I called Panasonic and explained the symptoms to them. They set up an appointment with a local service center in 3 days.
When I got a call from the service center, they told me that Panasonic had already shipped them a new main logic board, based on my description of the symptoms.
The repair tech replaced the main board in 20 minutes, and the red and green blotches were gone.

The entire repair experience - dealing with Panasonic, having the replacement board pre-shipped, and the repair tech's fast and
knowledgeable service - has been pretty much perfect (and much better than I anticipated).
It's unfortunate that the TV failed, but getting it repaired so quickly and professionally has been amazing.

And as a bonus, the new main logic board means that the service menu settings that I forgot to record when I broke in the TV are gone!
Now I can just repeat the changes, making sure to get pictures of every setting!

I have the VT25 but this does make me wonder about having a bad board.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebsebs View Post

I'm in the same boat as Lovejoy1: The "A" board in my TC-P50S2 was recently replaced (in my home) without any backup/restore procedure.
I reapplied the D'Nice service menu offsets and other settings, but the picture isn't as good as it was.

The biggest issue I have now is best seen in the fleshtones - faces in brighter scenes look OK,
but faces in darker scenes or shadows have "blotches" - mostly red, but some green, rather than being more uniformly gray, as I would expect.
This sounds like what LarryinRI was mentioning. I've tried reducing the R-DRV setting, but it doesn't seem to help much.
I've also turned the contrast up to near maximum, but that produces "wash out" when the scene has bright lights, or someone stands in front of a window.

So, a few questions, please:

1. Would using a grayscale ramp on a calibration disc help me to fix this?
I have the Spears-Munsil Blu-ray, which I think has one.

2. Can someone explain the exact functions of the RGB "DRV" and "CUT" settings in the service menu?
I assume that the "DRV" settings control the relative intensity of each color, but what do the "CUT" settings do?
I'm trying to determine which settings I should adjust to try to fix my problem.

3. Also, what effect does the white balance (WB) method setting have? I set it to 00 (vs. 03) as D'Nice recommends, but I can't see any difference.

Thanks for your help, and all of the good advice I've received from this forum!
Regards,
Eric

Makes me wonder too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barb1978 View Post

Our Panny VT25 50" has lost it with 3D. The 3D looks almost as good as ever in brighter scenes, but any scene where there's a dark background there is horrible crosstalk. Crosstalk to the point where it becomes unwatchable (I canceled my Tangled 3D pre-order, because 3D just isn't "fun" anymore; not 'til this issue is resolved). Does anyone know why this would happen and if there is anything that can be done in the settings that may fix the problem?

So you don't have to ask:

It happens with both the PS3 and a separate Panasonic 3D blu-ray.
It didn't always happen.
The settings weren't changed.
It happens on all settings (custom, cinema, vivid, etc.)
It happens with all different movies on both players.
We've tried 3 different pairs of glasses, fully charged, and had the same problem.
We're sitting in the same chairs and sofas as ever and they haven't been moved (IE: same viewing distance).

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Hmm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Was that 3.5 fw fix ever officially released for 2010 models ? I know there was a link floating around for the European site but not one for NA models to my knowledge.

The Europe possible fix is for the 11' models with Brightness fluctuations.
The post I quoted was
for the 10' models.
Made me think there was a new FW to fix
the 3D without messing up calibrations.
post #4869 of 5012
post #4870 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLennerth View Post

found a couple links regarding the new 3D glasses from Panasonic:

http://www.jr.com/panasonic/pe/PAN_TYEW3D3LU/

http://www.avforums.com/forums/plasm...d-glasses.html

Glad I came across this post. I had read about new generation glasses from Panasonic but couldn't find any info. I went straight to the source and asked Panasonic.com...here's the answer I received about 2 weeks ago:

"Thank you for your inquiry; we have no information about a third generation 3D glasses."

Maybe I should forward them the links you provided.
post #4871 of 5012
I just wanted to take the time to thank D-Nice and everyone else that has contributed to these threads. I have used the Dnice calibration method with my two VT25s, my friends G25, and my mother's G25...all with 100% success. I love having two different custom settings...one for dark room and one rooms that are more lit and both of them look FANTASTIC. I have read so many posts that criticize D-Nice, ChadB and others. It really is unfortunate that they get badgered with question after question over instructions that are plainly posted and explained on the forums...and then get criticized when people can't follow the instructions. But I just wanted to stop in and say thank you for help and allowing us the ability to "calibrate" our own sets. THANK YOU !!!!
post #4872 of 5012
Well said!
post #4873 of 5012
Thanks to all and especially to D-nice for their contributions and hard work they put into maximizing the potential of these sets!

I am a new plasma owner; specifically a new vt25 owner, and have some noob questions, if you all don't mind.

1) First of all, when running the 100 hour slides do I just change the settings in photo mode and keep all the other settings on default as in don't change it to THX? I just selected on first time start up "home use" instead of "vivid", will that affect the panel aging process and mess up D-nice's settings?

2) Is it recommended to run it 100 hours continuously? Or just as long as it totals 100 hours I should be fine? Is there a way to check how long the tv has been running for?

3) After the burn in period, I then apply the recommended settings I understand, but should I also avoid watching any broadcasts with set icon/logos, and movies with the black bars, for atleast another week or so just to be safe?

4) Should I go ahead and apply any and all firmware updates right away? Do I have to install previous firmwares before the latest or will 3.0 carry over everything before it? Should I apply the updates before or after the panel aging?

5) Do I still qualify for Avatar 3D for free? Or am I too late? Also, I'm in Canada.

I realize I am late to the plasma party. My lcd ignorance is washing away in a sea of inky blacks of infinite pro. Thanks for any helpful input!

Edit: In regards to question 4, after some more careful reading, I would like to know what would be the best course of action. I still want to try out D-nice's recommended settings so I will go ahead and do that, and still install firmware 3.5 because as I read it, 3.5 fixes some bugs and only affects the 3D (which can be adjusted again anyways)?
Or should I now avoid applying D-nices settings if I intend to get 3.5? If I have to avoid his settings should I hold off on changing the photo mode settings prior to burn in?

man im worrying too much!!

Thanks!
post #4874 of 5012
I have a 50" GT25 and was wondering what people thought were the best 3D glasses to buy.

I have 2 pairs of Panasonic glasses (the box set that came with Avatar) and two other pairs of cheap generic ones (different brands) I found on Amazon.com. Each seem slightly different, but I can't say that one is "better" than another.

The one complaint I have about all of them is that they're too short and sit too high on my nose...although you can remove the nose piece from the generic ones, which allow them to sit higher on your face and make it a bit better. No matter what, I feel like I always have to look down to see my TV correctly.

I was hoping to find ones with bigger lenses, that were as high quality as possible. The ones about to be released from Youniversal claim to have the fastest shutter speed and certainly look like the lenses are "taller", so I won't be looking through as narrow of a lens:

http://www.xpand.me/products/youniversal-3d-glasses/

What do you guys think?
post #4875 of 5012
Is there a way to quickly switch picture mode without going into the menu? I don't want to have to navigate to a different picture setting every time I play my xbox.
post #4876 of 5012
Did anyone else get the Vieracast Update today? I have a GT25 series and there was a new update...although I have no idea what it did. I was REALLY hoping for Hulu, but no such luck.
post #4877 of 5012
It just added the Viera Market place.
post #4878 of 5012
post #4879 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLennerth View Post

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-TY-E...2396200&sr=1-4

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-TY-E...3016980&sr=1-1

Links to new glasses. Top is large and bottom is medium.

This has been on Amazon for the past month. If you notice it says 1 to 3 months to ship so I don't think they've been released as yet, but I could be wrong. I preordered them on JR.com over a month ago and they still aren't available to them. They now have a picture of them, also.
http://www.jr.com/panasonic/pe/PAN_TYEW3D3MU/
post #4880 of 5012
Looking at a new in box 50vt20 from a b/m store, what would be a good price to get this for?

Also are there new updates for this plasma since it is over a year old?
post #4881 of 5012
Another question, what are the differences between the vt20 and vt25 other than screen size avalibilty?
post #4882 of 5012
I logged over 2000 hours on my 50g25 before discovering this thread; I am mostly satisfied with the THX Mode's picture, but I feel there is always room for improvement. My questions are:

1) Would it still be in my (tv's) best interest to apply D-Nice's service menu offsets and picture settings this late in my TV's life cycle, or has that ship sailed?

2) I've heard that THX Mode's colors are already pretty accurate out of the box. If that's the case, then why are such drastic changes (8 ticks) made to the Green-DRV and Red-CUT settings?

3) Is there a great deal of variation in the picture & colors from set-to-set of each model? Will my 50g25's picture look substantially different from the next 2000-hr. old G25 with the same picture settings applied?

Thanks in advance for everyone's inight. Unfortunately, I'm not the world's most technically-savvy Plasma owner
post #4883 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by baron2
Another question, what are the differences between the vt20 and vt25 other than screen size avalibilty?
The there is no difference between the 20 and 25. The 20 is just best buys model and a different cokor
post #4884 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by umiamifan1 View Post
I logged over 2000 hours on my 50g25 before discovering this thread; I am mostly satisfied with the THX Mode's picture, but I feel there is always room for improvement. My questions are:

1) Would it still be in my (tv's) best interest to apply D-Nice's service menu offsets and picture settings this late in my TV's life cycle, or has that ship sailed?

2) I've heard that THX Mode's colors are already pretty accurate out of the box. If that's the case, then why are such drastic changes (8 ticks) made to the Green-DRV and Red-CUT settings?

3) Is there a great deal of variation in the picture & colors from set-to-set of each model? Will my 50g25's picture look substantially different from the next 2000-hr. old G25 with the same picture settings applied?

Thanks in advance for everyone's inight. Unfortunately, I'm not the world's most technically-savvy Plasma owner
You can try D-Nice settings. If you don't like them change back to your original settings. You could also go to the G25 thread and try other users settings.
DRV and CUTS control the greyscale and are not to be confused with the color gamut. They control the color of white.
post #4885 of 5012
would anyone be able to point me in the right direction to find settings for a s30 series tv?

i used d nice settings and they are nice... what about the SM settings?
post #4886 of 5012
This has probably been answered elsewhere but I don't have time to dig for it. I've read that Panasonic finally fixed the floating black issue on the 2011 models... any chance that they also released a fix for the VT25?

Thanks a bunch,
post #4887 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_against_1 View Post

This has probably been answered elsewhere but I don't have time to dig for it. I've read that Panasonic finally fixed the floating black issue on the 2011 models... any chance that they also released a fix for the VT25?

Thanks a bunch,

Correct me if I'm mistaken but the issue that was fixed for 2011 models is Flucuatating Brightness(FBR) not Floating Blacks(FB), not the same issue.
post #4888 of 5012
I went in to the SM to set the WB Offsets that D-Nice suggests. What I noticed is that when you adjust the 6 WB Offsets (R-DRV, G-DRV, B-DRV, R-CUT, G-CUT, B-CUT,) ALL-DRV and ALL-CUT are automatically adjusted. That's the expected behavior, right?
post #4889 of 5012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhumur View Post

I went in to the SM to set the WB Offsets that D-Nice suggests. What I noticed is that when you adjust the 6 WB Offsets (R-DRV, G-DRV, B-DRV, R-CUT, G-CUT, B-CUT,) ALL-DRV and ALL-CUT are automatically adjusted. That's the expected behavior, right?

Yes, it is what is supposed to happen.
post #4890 of 5012
My one-year old G25 suddenly went dark a few days ago. What I mean by that is the image seems overly contrasty, lots of black crushing- anything that was previously dark, yet discernible just turns to pitch black. Horrible, really! No amount of adjusting seems to make any real improvement. I posted a separate post on this, but thought I'd pitch it here as well, in the hope that someone will have some insight. I am at a loss to understand what really happened, and how to go about fixing it. Before this chance, my picture settings were 'perfect' for me- rich, yet nuanced.

Here's my original post...http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1358186
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