just finished rereading this thread.
Forgive the post, it is long.
I hate to say it but, I still have not found a general setting that works on all channels of
a STB. I don't know if the TV has failed or the
1st black rise @600hrs
Generally I am seeing
a blochiness on faces.
In THX mode the brighter scenes are really good. mid level bright scenes are really good. It is the low bright
scenes where faces get
patchy looking and not
In Custom mode the opposite is true.
Bright muted, Mid good, low really good.
I read too high a contrast can cause this?
Well, I am using 53 contrast.
I like old Black and white shows and really see some strange things.
THX mode does indeed
make faces look like there is too much contrast, like when using a CRT.
I checked the setting with AVS709 and every looks nice. Even the grayscale is perfect.
Seems the aging has balanced the scale.
After my slide breaking in and D-Nice offsets I had a slight green at
30IRE and a slight red at
80IRE. Now it is a sweet
I know I am late to this party, I bought my VT25
in Feb. So 4-5 mos ago.
Seems the VT30 is getting all the post time.
I am wondering how some of you longtime owners are doing.
Did you see the B rise?
Has the set changed?
Any break downs?
Any strange things?
Originally Posted by dpjb
I do my own calibrations with Chromapure and an EyeOne Display 2 Lite, so I went ahead and applied the 3.5 firmware update and re-did my calibrations for THX mode and ISFNight.
2D calibrates just as well as it did before. I set both THX and ISFNight to about 30 ftL. The biggest difference I see between the two is ISF doesn't clip anything on the Spears and Munsil clipping pattern while THX does slightly. The gamma curve is flatter on THX, but I think I like the overall picture better with ISFNight.
For 3D, I use the cinema mode and custom using the Cameron settings. I generally liked the way the 3D modes looked; they definitely looked better than before. However, I feel the Cameron settings have too much dithering as a result of having the panel level set to high. If I switch the panel level to mid, it looks better, but not sure what affect that has on the accuracy of the settings. Of course, I have no way of calibrating the 3D modes at this point so I'm using them as is and hoping they are at least in the ball park.
The only other thing I think I've noticed with the new firmware is a change in the floating blacks. They seem less noticeable.
I can't figure out if I'm imagining it or not. It looks like it takes longer to kick in than it did before when a dark scene fills the screen. So it seems to occur less often because the scene changes before it kicks in. Or maybe it just changes by a smaller amount. I would be interested if anyone else has noticed anything like this.
Hmm, I still have not
decide whether the 3.5
is right for me. I would hate to regret it.
The FB issue possible fix
Originally Posted by NoLows121780
I came across the following comment at the TweakTV website...
This is the Achilles heal of the TC-P58VT25. While blacks are very deep and inky, in the user menu in THX mode at least, which is the most color accurate of the picture modes, the panel begins to clip white at a Contrast setting of only 46, which yielded a paltry 17 fTLs (55 cdm2) peak light output. The TC-P58VT25 when tweaked in the User menu is not capable of acceptable light output for a well controlled environment on a flat panel, let alone your average living room where most flat panels are used. This is more like the light output we strive for in a dedicated front projection home theater that is completely black.
However, using the ISF ccc interface with ControlCal, I was able to get Contrast to 75, which yielded a more acceptable 27 fTls (87 cdm2) of peak light output. Unfortunately, this lack of light output limits the panel's contrast ratio significantly. The lack of acceptable light output also negates the whole concept of implementing an ISF Day and ISF Night mode. At the maximum Contrast setting of 75 with no clipping, the panel barely achieves enough light output for a compelling ISF Night mode. Therefore, it is not possible to create a Day mode with sufficient light output without severe clipping of white with a major loss of detail.
Can someone elaborate on this??? Also what is available through ControlCal that enables better light output? Can these setting be accesed through the service menu? I ask because I cannot get a good contrast reading using the S&M calibration disc.....http://www.tweaktv.com/quick-looks/p...ever-made.html
I might be experiencing
Originally Posted by ebs
I'm not sure if this is the right place, but I just wanted to describe my warranty repair experience with my less than 2 month old TC-P50S2.
Last week I noticed that skin tones weren't even - they had "blotches" of red and green, and certain white backgrounds had red areas.
I called Panasonic and explained the symptoms to them. They set up an appointment with a local service center in 3 days.
When I got a call from the service center, they told me that Panasonic had already shipped them a new main logic board, based on my description of the symptoms.
The repair tech replaced the main board in 20 minutes, and the red and green blotches were gone.
The entire repair experience - dealing with Panasonic, having the replacement board pre-shipped, and the repair tech's fast and
knowledgeable service - has been pretty much perfect (and much better than I anticipated).
It's unfortunate that the TV failed, but getting it repaired so quickly and professionally has been amazing.
And as a bonus, the new main logic board means that the service menu settings that I forgot to record when I broke in the TV are gone!
Now I can just repeat the changes, making sure to get pictures of every
I have the VT25 but this does make me wonder about having a bad board.
Originally Posted by ebsebs
I'm in the same boat as Lovejoy1: The "A" board in my TC-P50S2 was recently replaced (in my home) without any backup/restore procedure.
I reapplied the D'Nice service menu offsets and other settings, but the picture isn't as good as it was.
The biggest issue I have now is best seen in the fleshtones - faces in brighter scenes look OK,
but faces in darker scenes or shadows have "blotches" - mostly red, but some green, rather than being more uniformly gray, as I would expect.
This sounds like what LarryinRI was mentioning. I've tried reducing the R-DRV setting, but it doesn't seem to help much.
I've also turned the contrast up to near maximum, but that produces "wash out" when the scene has bright lights, or someone stands in front of a window.
So, a few questions, please:
1. Would using a grayscale ramp on a calibration disc help me to fix this?
I have the Spears-Munsil Blu-ray, which I think has one.
2. Can someone explain the exact functions of the RGB "DRV" and "CUT" settings in the service menu?
I assume that the "DRV" settings control the relative intensity of each color, but what do the "CUT" settings do?
I'm trying to determine which settings I should adjust to try to fix my problem.
3. Also, what effect does the white balance (WB) method setting have? I set it to 00 (vs. 03) as D'Nice recommends, but I can't see any difference.
Thanks for your help, and all of the good advice I've received from this forum!
Makes me wonder too.
Originally Posted by barb1978
Our Panny VT25 50" has lost it with 3D. The 3D looks almost as good as ever in brighter scenes, but any scene where there's a dark background there is horrible crosstalk. Crosstalk to the point where it becomes unwatchable (I canceled my Tangled 3D pre-order, because 3D just isn't "fun" anymore; not 'til this issue is resolved). Does anyone know why this would happen and if there is anything that can be done in the settings that may fix the problem?
So you don't have to ask:
It happens with both the PS3 and a separate Panasonic 3D blu-ray.
It didn't always happen.
The settings weren't changed.
It happens on all settings (custom, cinema, vivid, etc.)
It happens with all different movies on both players.
We've tried 3 different pairs of glasses, fully charged, and had the same problem.
We're sitting in the same chairs and sofas as ever and they haven't been moved (IE: same viewing distance).
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Originally Posted by chunon
Was that 3.5 fw fix ever officially released for 2010 models ? I know there was a link floating around for the European site but not one for NA models to my knowledge.
The Europe possible fix is for the 11' models with Brightness fluctuations.
The post I quoted was
for the 10' models.
Made me think there was a new FW to fix
the 3D without messing up calibrations.