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134" Diagonal "Silver Fire on Drywall" Screen

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
Watch this space, Later today I will post up images of the construction of a 134" diagonal screen consisting of two pieces of Drywall joined together (screwed onto an existing wall) and Taped/Mudded/Primed

116" x 65" w/ SF 3.0 formula applied with a Wagner Control Spray "Plus" shooting a thicker viscosity Mix that normal.

To also show a time line, one needs only consider the amount of time between this first posting and the first time you actually see a projected image. A total of no more than 48 hours from start to finish. Heading out now to hang and mud the drywall.

04-01-10 Diagram & Photo update
OK...,

The Illustration below depicts how the two pieces of Drywall were joined. I used a 120" x 48" piece, and cut another 120" x 48" down to just 17" high, with the Factory tapered edges making the Union. As shown, the only Drywall screw fasteners used on the drywall were around and within a 1.5" perimeter area of the Screen, and across/inside the two tapered areas that adjoined each other.

You will notice I placed NO drywall screws within the projected Screen area. Also NO glue or adhesive was used as a supplement to the Perimeter screws.

When screwing the two "unions' together, it was easy to be certain the "joint" aligned perfectly by simply adjusting the depth of the Screws wherever needed, after each was run in until they dimpled the Drywall and held the Drywall flush against the rear surface. When I finished, the two edges aligned perfectly. I then applied a single width of Fiber Mesh Dry Wall Tape over the Horizontal Joint. All the perimeter screws received a coating of Mud, but just a token sanding because they are to be covered by the upcoming Black Velvet Trim overlay.



The 1st Photo shows the two pieces of Drywall already joined, taped, and with the first coat of Mud on the joint.



This 2nd Photo shows the Joint after sanding. Note how at places the sanded area has uncovered the straight edges of the Tapered area. To hasten things along, I did apply a thicker than normal initial coating of Mud. I paid for my haste by seeing several cracks in the mud after it had dried. THAT is why I had to sand enough that the straight edges of the tapers became apparent. Patience is a definite virtue when applying Drywall mud.



All-righty then....this 3rd Image shows the "Third" coat of Mud after the 2nd coat has been sanded smooth and the edges flush. You can clearly see the amount of sanding done by the "sweep marks" above and below the mudded area. Things are lookin' Mighty Flat.

post #2 of 38
Thread Starter 
Really just this AM started woking on it. Drywall is finished, two coats of Kilz-2 applied (1 "out of the Can" rolled & sanded - 1 Thinned w/Water & Sprayed & sanded ) End result was a very smooth, even surface across 120" diagonal



Mixing up at least a 3.0 if not a 4.0 SF Mix between now and 15 minutes....then I spray. Already lots to share (Pic & Vids)....more coming soon. Spraying should be complete just after Noon Eastern.

It is my hope that this example will further encourage any "Fence Sittin' " DIY'ers that inexpensive BIG Screens can be both esily made, and perform beyond expectations.
post #3 of 38
Hey, come on, it's already close to noon--you ought to be done by now.

I'm just wondering--do you do this as a business or fun? Where do you find the time...
post #4 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Really just this AM started woking on it. Drywall is finished, two coats of Kilz-2 applied (1 "out of the Can" rolled & sanded - 1 Thinned w/Water & Sprayed & sanded )

Mixing up at least a 3.0 if not a 4.0 SF Mix between now and 15 minutes....then I spray. Already lots to share (Pic & Vids)....more coming soon. Spraying should be complete just after Noon Eastern.

It is my hope that this example will further encourage any "Fence Sittin' " DIY'ers that inexpensive BIG Screens can be both esily made, and perform beyond expectations.

mman,,,, YOU GO BOY!.... let me know how it goes..... is there any way to spray before putting the pieces on the wall? My whole thing is that I cannot spray inside.... I have to be either in the garage or outside and then bring the finished pieces inside.

I'm just thinking now maybe I can make a frame out of wood and then screw the drywall onto the frame, then spackle, and prime, and spray, etc, ...what do you think?

I've been wondering how to find a 'substrate' that is about 115" diagonal all in one piece, but maybe 2 pieces spackled very well might do the trick!
post #5 of 38
115" diagonal in what ratio?
16:9 or 2:35:1?
post #6 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by CiXel View Post

115" diagonal in what ratio?
16:9 or 2:35:1?

16:9....so 56" x 100"
post #7 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post

16:9....so 56" x 100"

I just called wilsonart about their laminate and it's over $100 for 115", etc....
post #8 of 38
MM. I'm glad your doing this application. I can't wait for your results. I was taking Silver Fire off my list becuase I have not seen any application on dry wall. I'll be interested in hearing your oppion of this vs S-I-L-V-E-R and RS Mudd.
post #9 of 38
Thread Starter 
Well OK....Murphy's Law has stalked my time frame.

90% of this trip is "Pleasure" as well as communing with a Fellow AVS'er. But the SUV I was driving decided to make it an ordeal.

Go to the store for something to drink. (...guess what...) Come back out....Car would not start. Tried to Jump in Convienience Store parking lot for 3 hours. Call for a ride and just leave it there....go back and sand and squirt. Ooops, didn't have Pour Lid on Gallon can tight...spilled SF down my Leg onto Warehouse floor. Nice mess. Blessed be Water based Paint.

Go to Costco for battery. Ain't got no......go "miles away" to Sears....Battery costs $100.00

Take to Car & install...zoom, starts up. Drive to place I'm staying. Dismiss my ride. Take shower, change, going back to paint another coat.

Car won't start.

No ride. Finally get back to Screen at 9:30 pm. Good coat. Falling asleep on feet from nervous exhaustion. Go home, bedroom /Bed INFESTED (as in thousands) with Ladybugs. Only in New Jersey....the Garden State.

So now...going back for last coat...image up by Noon today.

.....is that a siren I hear? Dam breaking? Nuclear Attack alert? Who knows......, after all I AM in 'Jersey.
post #10 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Falling asleep on feet from nervous exhaustion. Go home, bedroom /Bed INFESTED (as in thousands) with Ladybugs. Only in New Jersey....the Garden State. .

Lady Bugs? You sure they weren't bed bugs. After all, you was in Joisey...
post #11 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threed123 View Post

Lady Bugs? You sure they weren't bed bugs. After all, you was in Joisey...

Back home.

Oh, they were Ladybugs fer shur. Craziest thing really. I am talking about "THOUSANDS". No foolin' Actually they could be harvested and sold to Gardening/Hydroponic Supply Stores. They do not go for cheap.

After all the mayhem and car issues, I did get the Screen done and a image splashed up on it...about 2.5 hours before my flight out. I have 260+ Photos and a few Movies to download. Just made it home to the Wife...and she's glad to see me. So instead of roiling the waters like usual and devoting my quality time to the PC/Forum, I'm going to go cuddle up and keep the domestic bliss potential high.

But I will be baaaaack. late this PM fer sure with goodies galore.
post #12 of 38
Thread Starter 
......would you believe....this PM? I hope so. Slept straight through to the AM, leaving for work now. Patience....PATIENCE!
post #13 of 38
Thread Starter 
Who could resist being late for work over these beauties at 135" diagonal.

All images taken in the same lighting...sun light coming from the rear left about 60' away.
13.8' throw
Epson 9100 pro
Full Lamp (20 fls)
NO Iris engaged. (..we don't need no stinkin' Iris!)


Diva on stage


LeeLoo surprised


23rd century Fuzz


Bruce and Attendant


A Dandy Bruce


Bruce and LeeLoo w-Multi-Pass


A LeeLoo composite in ambient light -Zoomed and not.
post #14 of 38
mman,

I'd love to see some comparision shots between Silver Fire and matte white dark and ambient, and silver fire vs. Behr SS plus poly in particular to see 'what I'm missing' =)
post #15 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Well OK....Murphy's Law has stalked my time frame.

90% of this trip is "Pleasure" as well as communing with a Fellow AVS'er. But the SUV I was driving decided to make it an ordeal.

Go to the store for something to drink. (...guess what...) Come back out....Car would not start. Tried to Jump in Convienience Store parking lot for 3 hours. Call for a ride and just leave it there....go back and sand and squirt. Ooops, didn't have Pour Lid on Gallon can tight...spilled SF down my Leg onto Warehouse floor. Nice mess. Blessed be Water based Paint.

Go to Costco for battery. Ain't got no......go "miles away" to Sears....Battery costs $100.00

Take to Car & install...zoom, starts up. Drive to place I'm staying. Dismiss my ride. Take shower, change, going back to paint another coat.

Car won't start.

No ride. Finally get back to Screen at 9:30 pm. Good coat. Falling asleep on feet from nervous exhaustion. Go home, bedroom /Bed INFESTED (as in thousands) with Ladybugs. Only in New Jersey....the Garden State.

So now...going back for last coat...image up by Noon today.

.....is that a siren I hear? Dam breaking? Nuclear Attack alert? Who knows......, after all I AM in 'Jersey.

makes me feel good that you're not an expert of every technical thing on the planet if you had been a car-guru as well as a projector guru i would have felt pretty small
post #16 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post

mman,

I'd love to see some comparision shots between Silver Fire and matte white dark and ambient, and silver fire vs. Behr SS plus poly in particular to see 'what I'm missing' =)

mman, any updates? I want to try and see how much of an 'upgrade' I would get between Silver Fire vs. Behr SS plus 25% poly that I currently have...
post #17 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post

mman, any updates? I want to try and see how much of an 'upgrade' I would get between Silver Fire vs. Behr SS plus 25% poly that I currently have...

Well Sir,

...at the time the images were taken there was almost no time left on my schedule to consider any comparisons, although had there been, it would of been against a SONY ChromaView 80"er.

A comparison between SS w/Poly and the similar shade in SF would pretty much make the SS look deadly dull in comparison....at any size or lumen level.

That...and there would be a significant difference in Ambient Light performance, the quality and vibrancy of Whites and Colors.....things that a simple Gray w/Poly just cannot accomplish.

You have to realize the use of Poly in SS, or any Neutral Gray is intended to ramp up reflectivity of the screen's surface to at least something close to 1.0 gain. It does this (...when introduced as part of the actual paint....) by introducing a slightly higher sheen (...very slight in the correct amounts...) and imparting a small increase in the translucency of the surface paint.

To that effect, such a Screen, when hit with a PJ with decent lumens can produce as best an image as a simple Gray can possible achieve.

SF is not a simple Gray. The RGBY components that comprise the Gray in SF are held in a suspension....leastwise to a far greater degree than a Gray that is comprised of the normal 2 tints used. Those Grays are more akin to a solution...a mix of tints and base that meld together to a greater degree to create a more opaque mix.

The more loosely held, suspended components both react more intensely to incoming light (individually) and do so by presenting more of a specific "colored" surface to such light, increasing the reflectivity of that particular component. Simple Grays just don't perform in this manner, leastwise not at the level a Gray comprising of RGBY elements mixed in a quantity of water based Poly and pure Water can/will do. The other factor is the considerable amount of additional reflective components; Silver Metallic and White Pearlescence. SS certainly does not contain any of those (...unless I told someone to add 'em... ) All that additional reflectiveness also helps the light reflected off the RGBY components to be effectively reintroduced back towards the viewer, as well as distribute illumination more throughly throughout the Poly-infused coating.

All of that is what make SF develop a "positive" gain, something none of the N'Grays possess. Combined with the fact that those aforementioned attributes also allow for the use of even darker shades of Gray than most anyone else would dare attempt to use with a N'Gray and the end result is a vibrant, color correct image that also combats the intrusion of Ambient light.

Even better, in the Dark, SF has a "Plasma TV" quality about it's appearance, something that was affording users a "3-D like" effect for quite a long time before such observations were being made with the newer, brighter, 1080p PJs.

Lastly, when SF is combined with the use of a 1/8" Mirrored substrate, very dark Gray shades were/are possible using normal levels of luminosity (1000 to 2000 lumens) and the "3-D'ism becomes all the more remarkable.

None of that is possible using a simple N'Gray w/Poly. And even with 2000+ lumens on hand, a N'Gray w/Poly will still mute Whites and affect the colors of a projected image to far greater an extent than SF will/does.

Now to qualify those statements beyond saying all that is something I personally know and have experienced many times in the past...let me state that without a personal inspection and evaluation of the difference, someone who owns a well done N'Gray w/Poly Screen that is effectively matched up with a decent PJ, and is viewed under the right circumstances (lighting...room colors) isn't going to be able to do much more than take the word of those who have in fact "been there, seen that". But even so, they will also most likely not let such protestations sway their opinion that the Screen they have is "Just fine, thank you very much.". And if they are gloriously happy...it shouldn't.

You bet Screenies can show up that difference though...and it's been done before. But mostly it's been a case between a "White" and a SF Gray.* That is/was what most wanted to see for quite some time until it became more popular for some to say that such comparisons were unfair to a N'Gray. Just keep in mind, I'm not among those who have fallen back on that safety net because quite frankly, it almost doesn't apply to SF Screens at all.

I never hesitate for any willing AVS member to call my bluff and do up a SF Screen as directed....I never have worried as to if what I tell 'em will be will come to be.

To that effect, if such was not the case and there existed a raft of unhappy Campers out there, you can believe they'd be out in force anytime/every time I post to the contrary. Instead, the only people who do post up negatives are those who have never done up a SF Screen, who are defending the applications they have found to work quite well for them (...understandable and Ok in itself...) and who basically don't agree (...or appreciate...) reading how something....really almost anything....might be "mo Bedder' than what they are using.

Used to was, only those with expensive Mfg Screens were guilty of such rhetoric. But in reality, it's the increase in both PJ quality and more effective DIY screen solutions that have made that happen with more frequency among prideful DIY'ers.

All in all, something that really isn't all that bad because it shows that a awful lot of DIY Screen makers are pretty darn pleased and happy with the Screens they have made up.

Now as for myself, "pleased and happy" just don't cut it. Ya gotta be overwhelmed....ecstatic..."Drop Jawed Amazed". Yessir.

So...unless you make up a SF batch and match the shade of it to your current screen, paint up a $12.00 Thrifty White Hardboard screen, and make the comparison yourself, you'll probably NOT want to wait around until you see it done by someone else. All I can offer is a resounding "Go For It !!! You'll be weally, weally glad you did!"

Well that...and all the other stuff I just laid on ya.


*There is a thread I authored from back around 07' where I compared SF/BW/SS/N'G/White. It showed SS holding it's own against everything "but" SF, but that SS had no Poly in it. Pissed a few people off if I remember correctly, but lifted SS up to a level of acceptance it never had reached before.
post #18 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Well Sir,

...at the time the images were taken there was almost no time left on my schedule to consider any comparisons, although had there been, it would of been against a SONY ChromaView 80"er.

A comparison between SS w/Poly and the similar shade in SF would pretty much make the SS look deadly dull in comparison....at any size or lumen level.

That...and there would be a significant difference in Ambient Light performance, the quality and vibrancy of Whites and Colors.....things that a simple Gray w/Poly just cannot accomplish.

You have to realize the use of Poly in SS, or any Neutral Gray is intended to ramp up reflectivity of the screen's surface to at least something close to 1.0 gain. It does this (...when introduced as part of the actual paint....) by introducing a slightly higher sheen (...very slight in the correct amounts...) and imparting a small increase in the translucency of the surface paint.

To that effect, such a Screen, when hit with a PJ with decent lumens can produce as best an image as a simple Gray can possible achieve.

SF is not a simple Gray. The RGBY components that comprise the Gray in SF are held in a suspension....leastwise to a far greater degree than a Gray that is comprised of the normal 2 tints used. Those Grays are more akin to a solution...a mix of tints and base that meld together to a greater degree to create a more opaque mix.

The more loosely held, suspended components both react more intensely to incoming light (individually) and do so by presenting more of a specific "colored" surface to such light, increasing the reflectivity of that particular component. Simple Grays just don't perform in this manner, leastwise not at the level a Gray comprising of RGBY elements mixed in a quantity of water based Poly and pure Water can/will do. The other factor is the considerable amount of additional reflective components; Silver Metallic and White Pearlescence. SS certainly does not contain any of those (...unless I told someone to add 'em... ) All that additional reflectiveness also helps the light reflected off the RGBY components to be effectively reintroduced back towards the viewer, as well as distribute illumination more throughly throughout the Poly-infused coating.

All of that is what make SF develop a "positive" gain, something none of the N'Grays possess. Combined with the fact that those aforementioned attributes also allow for the use of even darker shades of Gray than most anyone else would dare attempt to use with a N'Gray and the end result is a vibrant, color correct image that also combats the intrusion of Ambient light.

Even better, in the Dark, SF has a "Plasma TV" quality about it's appearance, something that was affording users a "3-D like" effect for quite a long time before such observations were being made with the newer, brighter, 1080p PJs.

Lastly, when SF is combined with the use of a 1/8" Mirrored substrate, very dark Gray shades were/are possible using normal levels of luminosity (1000 to 2000 lumens) and the "3-D'ism becomes all the more remarkable.

None of that is possible using a simple N'Gray w/Poly. And even with 2000+ lumens on hand, a N'Gray w/Poly will still mute Whites and affect the colors of a projected image to far greater an extent than SF will/does.

Now to qualify those statements beyond saying all that is something I personally know and have experienced many times in the past...let me state that without a personal inspection and evaluation of the difference, someone who owns a well done N'Gray w/Poly Screen that is effectively matched up with a decent PJ, and is viewed under the right circumstances (lighting...room colors) isn't going to be able to do much more than take the word of those who have in fact "been there, seen that". But even so, they will also most likely not let such protestations sway their opinion that the Screen they have is "Just fine, thank you very much.". And if they are gloriously happy...it shouldn't.

You bet Screenies can show up that difference though...and it's been done before. But mostly it's been a case between a "White" and a SF Gray.* That is/was what most wanted to see for quite some time until it became more popular for some to say that such comparisons were unfair to a N'Gray. Just keep in mind, I'm not among those who have fallen back on that safety net because quite frankly, it almost doesn't apply to SF Screens at all.

I never hesitate for any willing AVS member to call my bluff and do up a SF Screen as directed....I never have worried as to if what I tell 'em will be will come to be.

To that effect, if such was not the case and there existed a raft of unhappy Campers out there, you can believe they'd be out in force anytime/every time I post to the contrary. Instead, the only people who do post up negatives are those who have never done up a SF Screen, who are defending the applications they have found to work quite well for them (...understandable and Ok in itself...) and who basically don't agree (...or appreciate...) reading how something....really almost anything....might be "mo Bedder' than what they are using.

Used to was, only those with expensive Mfg Screens were guilty of such rhetoric. But in reality, it's the increase in both PJ quality and more effective DIY screen solutions that have made that happen with more frequency among prideful DIY'ers.

All in all, something that really isn't all that bad because it shows that a awful lot of DIY Screen makers are pretty darn pleased and happy with the Screens they have made up.

Now as for myself, "pleased and happy" just don't cut it. Ya gotta be overwhelmed....ecstatic..."Drop Jawed Amazed". Yessir.

So...unless you make up a SF batch and match the shade of it to your current screen, paint up a $12.00 Thrifty White Hardboard screen, and make the comparison yourself, you'll probably NOT want to wait around until you see it done by someone else. All I can offer is a resounding "Go For It !!! You'll be weally, weally glad you did!"

Well that...and all the other stuff I just laid on ya.


*There is a thread I authored from back around 07' where I compared SF/BW/SS/N'G/White. It showed SS holding it's own against everything "but" SF, but that SS had no Poly in it. Pissed a few people off if I remember correctly, but lifted SS up to a level of acceptance it never had reached before.

OK, OK, I hear you... I *still* have all the SF materials and I just have to find the right substrate for it.... perhaps I just get some BOC and wood and make the screen that way (since I want about 115" diagonal)....

Also, just to update.... I have ordered the JVC RS10 as I went though the pro8100 and the 1080ub and both were defective upon arrival... I then saw the AVS sale for the JVC and 'went for it' as you say =)

So what do you think about a wood frame with BOC for a 115" substrate?
post #19 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post

OK, OK, I hear you... I *still* have all the SF materials and I just have to find the right substrate for it.... perhaps I just get some BOC and wood and make the screen that way (since I want about 115" diagonal)....

JUST MAKING SURE YOU WERE LISTENING.....

BOC? Gotta work on that..............

Quote:


Also, just to update.... I have ordered the JVC RS10 as I went though the pro8100 and the 1080ub and both were defective upon arrival... I then saw the AVS sale for the JVC and 'went for it' as you say =)

..........as I seldom get to say in the DIY Screen world, "Oh how very righteous!" Now your up in the Big Leagues.....ya got ch'er courage up!

Quote:


So what do you think about a wood frame with BOC for a 115" substrate?

........beans don't burn on the Grill.
Forget that BOC business.. You have a RS10. Why take the risk and the excess bother to get all the right Wood, bracing, BOC, stretch and smooth the BOC correctly, Prime it and sand it, hope to spray on the Rubberized side with out developing texture or little Niftkins....then worry about how to Frame it? You have the "Power"...the Resolution....a perfectly clean image....true 35K Contrast, and the goodies to mix up a 2.0 Silver Fire batch....all the very best of what makes for achieving the best. Don't introduce anything that can mitigate that potential.

No-sir. Get a piece of 5' x 10' GatorFoam board. Have the Supplier cut it to
104" x 60" so as to leave 2" all around the perimeter of the 100" x 56" Image area It's incredible stuff. It's a smooth, white sheet. Ready to paint directly onto...no Priming required. Support Frame? Doesn't need it. The stuff doesn't twist or warp. A simple 1x4 perimeter Frame will serve to allow you to mount French Cleat (Hangman) hangers, and be there for extra support for the Finish nails you drive through the Black Velvet wrapped MDF (3.25" wide) base to act as your Trim Surround.

And even simpler, you can hang the who enchilada really easy just by screwing directly through the outside edges of the GF/1x into the Drywall,
Paint the thing where it's exactly where you want it to be, then cover those Screw heads with the Trim.

The GF/SF Screen will provide you with a extremely smooth surface that will only compliment the attributes the JVC brings into the equation. Do as i suggest and it won't be "All good" but rather "So Perfect".


PS & BTW,

Try to hang the JVC at it's closest possible Lens distance from the Screen (12'-2") to get 24 Fl. on Normal Lamp. With the 1000 ANSI Lumens the RS10 puts out, on Low lamp you'll still get as much or more Lumens as a 16-1800 Lumen job set on Low Lamp.....but you'll be so very much more well off "Contrast & Dynamic Image-wise' than any Epson. Up to and including the 9100 Pro, a particular favorite of mine.

Ya got me all a'tingly inside......
post #20 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

JUST MAKING SURE YOU WERE LISTENING.....

BOC? Gotta work on that..............



..........as I seldom get to say in the DIY Screen world, "Oh how very righteous!" Now your up in the Big Leagues.....ya got ch'er courage up!



........beans don't burn on the Grill.
Forget that BOC business.. You have a RS10. Why take the risk and the excess bother to get all the right Wood, bracing, BOC, stretch and smooth the BOC correctly, Prime it and sand it, hope to spray on the Rubberized side with out developing texture or little Niftkins....then worry about how to Frame it? You have the "Power"...the Resolution....a perfectly clean image....true 35K Contrast, and the goodies to mix up a 2.0 Silver Fire batch....all the very best of what makes for achieving the best. Don't introduce anything that can mitigate that potential.

No-sir. Get a piece of 5' x 10' GatorFoam board. Have the Supplier cut it to
104" x 60" so as to leave 2" all around the perimeter of the 100" x 56" Image area It's incredible stuff. It's a smooth, white sheet. Ready to paint directly onto...no Priming required. Support Frame? Doesn't need it. The stuff doesn't twist or warp. A simple 1x4 perimeter Frame will serve to allow you to mount French Cleat (Hangman) hangers, and be there for extra support for the Finish nails you drive through the Black Velvet wrapped MDF (3.25" wide) base to act as your Trim Surround.

And even simpler, you can hang the who enchilada really easy just by screwing directly through the outside edges of the GF/1x into the Drywall,
Paint the thing where it's exactly where you want it to be, then cover those Screw heads with the Trim.

The GF/SF Screen will provide you with a extremely smooth surface that will only compliment the attributes the JVC brings into the equation. Do as i suggest and it won't be "All good" but rather "So Perfect".


PS & BTW,

Try to hang the JVC at it's closest possible Lens distance from the Screen (12'-2") to get 24 Fl. on Normal Lamp. With the 1000 ANSI Lumens the RS10 puts out, on Low lamp you'll still get as much or more Lumens as a 16-1800 Lumen job set on Low Lamp.....but you'll be so very much more well off "Contrast & Dynamic Image-wise' than any Epson. Up to and including the 9100 Pro, a particular favorite of mine.

Ya got me all a'tingly inside......

Yes, I'm pretty pumped for the JVC. Yes, I will be ceiling mounting this puppy at minimum distance (12' ish), so that's a done deal.

Just to clarify on the substrate... this will have to be painted before it's 'hung'.... the whole point to getting the substrate is that I can paint it outside or in the garage. If I paint inside, which I'm really trying to avoid, I would just use the wall that I have currently have the SS/Poly on.... I've been watching 'the wall' now for several weeks and it's more than flat and clean enough for my viewing needs. However, I really do not want to spray in a finished basement.. if I can avoid it.....So how much should I expect to pay for this cut piece of GatorFoam?
post #21 of 38
Thread Starter 
About $75.00 at most. That's a cumulative total less than a Framed BOC Screen, and it's surface is an order of magnitude better for the purpose at hand.

Anywho, it's lightweight and very flexible 'as is' so if you simply support the edges while you paint it, then carry it in and just screw it onto the wall, it's gonna be a pretty simple "do".
post #22 of 38
Hey Mississippi Man, you've got me thinking here! This might be better & easier than our discussion on the other thread? ( Plugging the hole in drywall. ) My screen will be 144" diagonal, so I'd need 3 sheets of drywall... Did you use Kilz2 primer? Did you spray the primer on? Any sanding? ( Other than the joints... ) I'm worried about the inner & outer drywall vibrating, maybe I should use a glue like Liquid nails between them? (I have an infinite baffle subwoofer setup behind the screen wall. ) Do you think this technique would be a good idea for me? It seems like it would save a lot of time sanding & mudding the wall smooth.

Thanks!
post #23 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirnak View Post

Hey Mississippi Man, you've got me thinking here! This might be better & easier than our discussion on the other thread? ( Plugging the hole in drywall. ) My screen will be 144" diagonal, so I'd need 3 sheets of drywall...

No you don't. Using a 12' x 48" x 1/2 sheet of Dry Wall, simply cut the length down to 130", and do likewise with a second sheet only also cut it down to 27" tall. Those figures have 2' additional added all around to accommodate the screws around the Perimeter such as shown on the diagram in the first post (just added)

Quote:


Did you use Kilz2 primer?

Yes
Quote:


Did you spray the primer on?

The 2nd primer coat was sprayed on. The first was rolled on heavily, then sanded smooth.

Quote:


Any sanding? ( Other than the joints... )

No. all the perimeter screws were simply mudded over a couple times, and scraped flush.

Quote:


I'm worried about the inner & outer drywall vibrating, maybe I should use a glue like Liquid nails between them? (I have an infinite baffle subwoofer setup behind the screen wall. ) Do you think this technique would be a good idea for me? It seems like it would save a lot of time sanding & mudding the wall smooth.

Thanks!

Use a Latex Adhesive Caulk...something that will have more work time, or Liquid Nails for paneling. Apply 1/4" thick beads every 4" and lightly spread them out (...don't flatten them...) That should give you all the additional "vibration proofing" you need.

Yes...when doing such a large screen onto Dry Wall, having only one Joint (...that you know is straight and even...) and NO screw heads within the projected image area is a great assurance that you will not have any visible defects at/on the finish. But always check your work after the first Primer Coat. Blemish issues, pits, cracks, or pinholes that seemed invisible after sanding will always pop ot at that time. If you make it through the 2nd Primer Coat without seeing anything...your good to squirt.
post #24 of 38
Wow. Great idea! Thanks so much for posting so much great information. I wouldn't even attempt a DIY screen without so much info from you and people like you MM!!!
post #25 of 38
Any updates? I'm interested in seeing the final result as I may just build an identical screen!
post #26 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tyler_broadbent View Post

Any updates? I'm interested in seeing the final result as I may just build an identical screen!

I hope to be back at that location within 2-3 weeks at most. Because I felt I may of actually under-sprayed this screen, I just might apply one final coat so there might be that difference to compare as well.

If you will take notice, in the shots where there is Plate Glass Window sourced directed/ambient light hitting the left side of the screen,http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post18285099 it does show an impact on contrast, but one that is small enough it still lets the image maintain a very dynamic appearance. That is of course, as the "Camera" sees it.

And in reality, contrast retention seemed even more effective "when judged by the Eye". The known effect that the Camera will center it's metering on the brightest content makes the room appear much darker than it was. Such is the still-dominating brightness off the screen, it fights off some pretty intense intrusion of light.

For Ambient light Room shots, I use carefully applied "Zoom" attenuation in my 400-600 ISO Screen shots because unlike most others, I have brightness coming off the Screen to spare.

Or I use a 100-200 ISO setting (...mostly for slightly Zoomed Dark Theater screenies...)

As presented, this location's set up a worst case scenario by any standard. but that was the whole idea. 135" is/was felt obtainable using a 9100 Pro. if adjudged too puny fo the task, there is always the new LG CF181D (1920x1080 resolution SXRD, 1800 ANSI lumens, 35000:1 contrast) to consider. It's the brightest 1080p on the planet under 10k with a video-optimized lumen output of over 1200 lumens. That's a HUGE difference over the 9100's 690 optimized lumens Price for that wonder? aprox. $2495.00. Smack yer Mama!

I know where they keep the Big Guns, and I'm not afraid to roll 'em out! The artillery selection is gonna grow by a leap come fall. I like all the uber-bright 3-d machines that promise to be on tap. With them, almost all things are going to be possible

Basically...and many of us already realize this, the specifications the PJs today can offer can indeed make a Bed Sheet into a screen...compared to what has come before.

And a basically good white or gray surface can look even better and even work toward improving the view-ability of a projected image.

A specialized surface however can take the assets provided by an exceptional Pj and create something beyond expectations. I feel what is shown here goes a way toward representing that ideal. Will it show even better after 45+ days of cure? (...remember the surface was on 1-2 hours dry at the first showing...) Will another Coat (...I only Dusted and followed with two coats....) be needed, and if applied, make a significant difference?

Well for certain, those answers will be forthcoming. And fairly soon. among my most favorite things is helping people realize that Drywall is a excellent, affordable material. And in this case having to Tape/Mud up a single seam should never be considered untenable.
post #27 of 38
Hey guys,
I was going to go with a Carada screen, but i`ve started to read these diy threads and want to learn more about doing this. Where do i get this Gatorboard?
By the way i dont have a pj yet, i plan on getting the panny 4k for a light controlled room.

Thanks

Lee
post #28 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mal01 View Post

Hey guys,
I was going to go with a Carada screen, but i`ve started to read these diy threads and want to learn more about doing this. Where do i get this Gatorboard?
By the way i dont have a pj yet, i plan on getting the panny 4k for a light controlled room.

Thanks

Lee


That Pj is an excellent start!

Where do you live? Sourcing GatorFoam Board usually is no problem.
post #29 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That Pj is an excellent start!

Where do you live? Sourcing GatorFoam Board usually is no problem.

MM, I live in the Lou, Ky area. I googled Gatorfoam and went to a site that sells it, but it was super expensive, i might have looked at the wrong stuff.
post #30 of 38
also look for sintra or komatex...

all three are in the same family of expanded rigid form core signage sheeting... and most distributors carry 5' x 10' for under $100.
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