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Dual Opposed AV15H Subwoofer Build - Page 5

post #121 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse S View Post

Solder! Solder! Solder!

You can do it PBC

Hey Jesse, yeah, it's not the sodlering that frightens me, it's the part about possibly having to remove the wires from the terminal cup then resoldering, etc.

The connectors look like an easy idea. Plus if I have to redo anything I don't have to worry about moving my boxes from the family room back to the basement or trying to use the soldering iron upstairs without making a mess! Or knowing me I'll end up with a cold solder joint somewhere down the line.

Just got the call from DB Shenker, my well travelled final two drivers have finally arrived in Toronto after trips to Chicago and Philadelphia. Hopefully I'll have them for when I get home tonight and can work on the final box.
post #122 of 801
screw the soldering demands Its a crappy way to do it if you want to remove anything.

Just go buy some standard speaker terminal disconnect/clips...stick the 12 AWG wire in them, clamp down and then you are done.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...TOKEN=23289368
post #123 of 801
and just in case folks don't know, crimping is actually a specific two-step process.
the first step punches the middle in. the second step folds the two sides together. it's hard to explain. it can actually create a very strong connection, without soldering.
post #124 of 801
I personally would just use female spade connectors and crimp them on. No need to solder.
post #125 of 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

and just in case folks don't know, crimping is actually a specific two-step process.
the first step punches the middle in. the second step folds the two sides together. it's hard to explain. it can actually create a very strong connection, without soldering.

Yeah, I do the first step and always forget the next step. I always ask myself....who is pulling my cables inside my cabinets anyways.
post #126 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

and just in case folks don't know, crimping is actually a specific two-step process.
the first step punches the middle in. the second step folds the two sides together. it's hard to explain. it can actually create a very strong connection, without soldering.

Are you referring to crimping the spade connectors onto the terminal cup when you say "folding the two sides together"?

I would using these...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=095-290

I would simply crimp the wire to the base and then "plug" that into the terminal cup connector and maybe clamp down on it a bit to ensure a tight/snug fit?
post #127 of 801
Thread Starter 
Humorous what one does when in a rush. Got my two drivers yesterday so figured out where the mounting holes shoudl be on my inner baffles, screwed in the anchors, then decided "I'll quickly glue the baffles on so I can do the lid tomorrow and start sanding afterwards". Glued on the two baffles, as I'm cleaning up I realize "oh sh**... forgot to glue on the darn dowel rods!!". Was too late as it had been a good 20 minutes before I realized that!

Not a huge issue, just makes it a tad more difficult to get the dowel rods. I'm going to make a "bloopers" thread for my build soon and show pics of my screw ups!

post #128 of 801
Thread Starter 
Haven't had much time to work on these and still waiting for my socket screws and some stuff from monoprice to come in, as well as my magnets. Finished gluing up the 2nd box, needed some wood filler/moldable paste for some areas on both boxes. Waiting for that to dry but have sanded them down using 80/120/180/220 then finished off with a scraper (yeah, prob overkill ). Caulked them a tad to seal them off as well, then worked on the outer baffles.

Really wish I had made the jig for the router as my outer baffles are not perfect but I think after everything is stained dark it will be difficult to see any imperfections.

Some gratuitous pics ...






BTW: The flash on the camera makes the logo stand out a lot more than it actually does. It's relatively subtle. While I like the logo, if I did this again I probably wouldn't go with it mainly because it adds one additional step of trying to line up the logo with the baffle (versus just adding a baffle) plus you have to numer the subs and the baffles as I don't think the logo is aligned with the screws exactly the same for each sub!
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post #129 of 801
Thread Starter 
Heading to Vancouver next week with a pit stop in Calgary on the way back to Toronto for work, but hoping to get the veneer on these and maybe the first stain beforehand if I can before I leave.

A few questions:

1. Are people using closed cell foam stripping (or whatever it's called) under their subs before they screw them in to the inner baffle?

2. What kind of glue or other is used to ensure the grill fabric stays on the wood grill?

3. Dumb question of the day, I assume the "gain" controls on the pro-amp work similar to any gain on plate amp sub? I.e., you set the gain by adjusting it until the sub reads 73db with pink noise on a SPL Meter? I was planning on running the subs without any EQ to see how they are before likely adding afterwards, but want to make sure I'm on track and not missing anything!

Thanks!
post #130 of 801
pbc, those subs are looking good so far!

1. Yes.
2. I believe reading a thread here a few weeks ago and hot glue was used.
3. I think what you're saying is correct but I use a plate amp so someone with a pro-amp I'm sure will let you know.
post #131 of 801
Very nice subs pbc.

Other's will chime in about there pro-amps but since I use a Velodyne SMS-1 to control the volume I have the gain on my amps turned all the way up.

Are you using some form of volume control besides your receiver?

With some receivers some sort of device that adds gain to the outputs are needed to achieve enough volume when the gain is turned all the way up. You won't know this is the case until you try it. I have never had this problem my-self but other members out there know exactly why this is the case and they can diagnose it for you. I know I had to get a ART CleanBOX for a sub I built for a friend since we needed more gain than his Halo C2 provided to get to 75db.
post #132 of 801
those are looking fantastic. so far so good.

"Are you referring to crimping the spade connectors onto the terminal cup when you say "folding the two sides together"?"

i was talking about the part where you put the wire into the round connection. here is a quick drawing of what i meant. once the connector is crimped to the wire, you just slide it on the terminal.


LL
post #133 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post


Are you using some form of volume control besides your receiver?

With some receivers some sort of device that adds gain to the outputs are needed to achieve enough volume when the gain is turned all the way up. You won't know this is the case until you try it. I have never had this problem my-self but other members out there know exactly why this is the case and they can diagnose it for you. I know I had to get a ART CleanBOX for a sub I built for a friend since we needed more gain than his Halo C2 provided to get to 75db.

Will eventually, but wanted to see how the units performed on their own, so to start, just the Onkyo 876.
post #134 of 801
Thread Starter 
Hmmm....just noticed the Marchand Bassis doesn't have a gain control (didn't pay much attention to this when I was thinking the gains were on the pro-amp itself).
post #135 of 801
the dcx2496 seems to offer much more than the bassis, but to each his own...
post #136 of 801
PBC,

I use Ricci’s write up as a way to calibrate my subs. Yours may be little different since they are opposing ones though, so if it is really different than hopefully someone will chime in.

Ricci’s write up (entire thread it is from is also below):

1. Pull both SW's out into the middle of the room and place the mic or SPL meter close and facing the cone. Calibrate the first sub(whatever, doesn't really matter what level yet so long as you match this with the 2nd sw). Move the first sw out of the way.

2.Then move the other sub to the exact same spot as the first sub was measured and set it for an identical level. At this point you should leave the SW gains on the plate amps, if applicable alone and start messing with placement of the 2 subs if you can.

3.Find the spot with the flattest FR or most deep bass reinforcement (take your pick) for the 1st sw.

4.Then identify what the weaknesses in that response are and play around with positioning of the 2nd sw and try to find a spot that ends up with the best combined response at the listening position.

5.Then EQ both sw's together to further shape things up.

6.Finally recalibrate to whatever overall SW level you wish using the reciever/ processor sw level control.

This would only work for identical subs.


It's very simple. This is the only way to ensure that the subwoofers are truly level/gain/SPL matched(whatever you want to call it. It's all the same thing. Gain does not mean that little knob on the back of a SW plate amp necessarily.) . This will insure that both subs are working equally hard and will run out of gas or be overdriven at the same time You do not want to level match them from different positions. Of course one sub may be contributing the majority of the output at the listening position when it's all said and done, but that does not matter. It's about using the subs to the best of BOTH of their abilities and even power distribution between them. Completely regardless of where your SW's will be placed finally in the room, or car, or outside or wherever they finally end up.

During initial set-up pull both subs out into the middle of the room and put your mic or SPL meter close to the driver pointed directly at the cone. Set the level of the first one to whatever you want. Move it out of the way and repeat with the 2nd sw . Now they are level/gain matched and you then proceed with your calibrations from there. Mess with positioning, EQ, overall SW level from your preamp or reciever, whatever. Just apply it to both subs equally.

Thread it came from:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=calibrate+eq

James
post #137 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

the dcx2496 seems to offer much more than the bassis, but to each his own...

Alright, alright, alright .... will probably get the DCX instead! Cheaper by about $250 for me anyhow.
post #138 of 801
Thread Starter 
Thanks Exojam.
post #139 of 801
Thread Starter 
Applied one coat of General Finishes Dark Brown Dye stain this morning after applying some stain conditioner and using a 320 grit sanding sponge once dry...



Let it dry for about 3 hours, then sanded again with the 320 grit and applied a coat of Minwax Red Chestnut ...



LL
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post #140 of 801
Very nice finish there buddy..... soon the time will come to rock the house !!!!
post #141 of 801
Thread Starter 
Yeah, they'yre definitely coming out much better than I thought. The dark brown dye stain does hide a lot of imperfections, and the red chest nut adds a dark reddish hue to the brown which will match the reddish hue of my walnut Salamander stand while not being too "rosy" like my Rosenut PB13.

Unfortunately it looks like I had wiped some glue off the sides with a wet cloth and the glue didn't seem to fully come off even after sanding so I can see a tad of "shiny-ness" on a couple sides. Hoping with another coat of red chestnut and then some water based satin finish poly should get rid of some of that. Odd it didn't go away given all the sanding and scraping.
post #142 of 801
Thread Starter 
BTW, when applying the closed cell foam for the driver, does one apply it to the wood or to the driver directly?
post #143 of 801
Thread Starter 
Woah .... bit of a scare there. Appears I didn't wipe off enough of the stain and had several shiny spots some 9 hours later. But this morning it wasn't bad and managed to sand it a tad with 320 grit sand paper again to remove. Then applied the last red chestnut stain (and made sure I removed excess with a clean cloth this time!). Off to Vancouver this afternoon, so the boxes will have plenty of time to dry!

Decided, what the heck, and went to an imaging shop and had these done this morning as well for the grills (engraved black on brushed aluminum). Yes, I'm a bit anal. Sure hope this build turns out ....



Note - both are same color background (1" by 2") even though the bottom looks different, that's just the camera or the shading. Humorous, haven't told my bro I'm doing this (he has a PB12 Ultra). Going to invite him over once this is done and up and running and see if he believes that I build it. They aren't perfect and look a bit more like aged/stained furniture than veneer, but I might be able to fool him with the grills and emblems.
LL
post #144 of 801
Looking good so far.
post #145 of 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Haven't had much time to work on these and still waiting for my socket screws and some stuff from monoprice to come in, as well as my magnets. Finished gluing up the 2nd box, needed some wood filler/moldable paste for some areas on both boxes. Waiting for that to dry but have sanded them down using 80/120/180/220 then finished off with a scraper (yeah, prob overkill ). Caulked them a tad to seal them off as well, then worked on the outer baffles.

Really wish I had made the jig for the router as my outer baffles are not perfect but I think after everything is stained dark it will be difficult to see any imperfections.

Some gratuitous pics ...






BTW: The flash on the camera makes the logo stand out a lot more than it actually does. It's relatively subtle. While I like the logo, if I did this again I probably wouldn't go with it mainly because it adds one additional step of trying to line up the logo with the baffle (versus just adding a baffle) plus you have to numer the subs and the baffles as I don't think the logo is aligned with the screws exactly the same for each sub!

is there any way to get AE drivers without the logo? its a little busy for my eyes... although im sort of undecided.
post #146 of 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaslast View Post

is there any way to get AE drivers without the logo? its a little busy for my eyes... although im sort of undecided.

You can get them without the logo's or you can even order them with the black cones instead of the aluminum.
post #147 of 801
Thread Starter 
So on my way to the airport today I stopped off a the Paradigm factory in their Parts and Service Dept. Went in and asked how much for the "plastic" feet similar to the Signature model (except the signature model is metal), so guess these are the ones that come on the Studio line. Look the same.

Guy says he didn't have the price list, then says "hey you're the guy that had to take his S2 in twice for repair right?". I replied "yup, that's me", he asks how many speakers I needed feet for, mention 2, and he gives 8 feet to me free of charge!
post #148 of 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

So on my way to the airport today I stopped off a the Paradigm factory in their Parts and Service Dept. Went in and asked how much for the "plastic" feet similar to the Signature model (except the signature model is metal), so guess these are the ones that come on the Studio line. Look the same.

Guy says he didn't have the price list, then says "hey you're the guy that had to take his S2 in twice for repair right?". I replied "yup, that's me", he asks how many speakers I needed feet for, mention 2, and he gives 8 feet to me free of charge!

Score!

Did you happen to mention my Paradigm speakers that I had in for service 4 times, I can send you my address
post #149 of 801
Thread Starter 
I think the guy was just too lazy or busy to bother looking for a price list! But I'll do that next time.
post #150 of 801
Thread Starter 
Have had zero time this week being in Vancouver and Calgary til Thursday. Unfortunately when I got back I STILL hadn't received my magnets for the grill or my XLR to RCA cables from Monoprice for the proamp (ordered it on March 29!!). So couldn't test out the drivers (without the amp cable) or complete the front baffles/grills without the magnets.

Put a few coats of satin water pased poly, think if I did this again I'd use a brush vs the spray can as it didn't seem to come out as nice and required more sanding with the 320 grit sponge. In any event, not much to add aside from a couple pics (brought one of the boxes upstairs)...



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