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Dual Opposed AV15H Subwoofer Build - Page 8

post #211 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

I also assume that the cabling is of same lengths from the 876 to the amp and the speaker wire from amp to subs.

Hmmm, I thought about this as my speaker wire is much shorter to the sub showing the lower dbs. But recall reading somewhere that unless the wires were very long it wouldn't make a diff (one is 6 feet, the other about 3 feet, simply because I was getting sick of trying to hide long wires!). But I can try equal distance wires to check for that when I get home later today.
post #212 of 801
PBC,

If you haven't already...Take a DMM and measure the impedance of the 2 cabs. Perhaps you made a wiring mistake on one? Set the amp gains identical for both channels.

Bosso,

Yes the DCX can take a single input and split it into 6 individual channels with separate eq, gain, etc.
post #213 of 801
Ricci,

He is reading 3.2 ohms on both subs.

James
post #214 of 801
Thread Starter 
Note those readings were taken before the subs were hooked up (as I understand this will fluctuate depending on what the amp is delivering).

Will also remeasure the impedence at the terminals with a 60hz tune going to both when I remeasure the voltage at a higher output than 100db.

Edit: I also seem to recall that when I was measuring impedence of the drivers (I wired both pairs before putting htem into their boxes just to check) that one set went to 3.2 almost immediately, while the other pair seemed somewhat erratic before settling on 3.2. May mean nothing at all, or something!?
post #215 of 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by exojam View Post

Ricci,

What part of that section of your reply, for setting up two identical subswoofers I copied here earlier was taken out of context, as he is trying to do I have done with my single AV15H's?

Just looking to find so if there is something wrong with this method I do not recommend it to other people or use myself. Thanks.

James

The recommendation to pull the subs to the middle of the room and use an spl to get the subwoofers set to the same level was really only for commercial subs of the same model using plate amps to ensure that they were both operating at the same drive level. Those have large rotary knobs and it is very difficult to eyeball or ear-ball them to the same level. If you have a set-up that is using DIY type components with pro-amps or whatever you don't need to do that usually. You just wire them up the same and set the channel trims the same for both subs. Some amps have a small variation between channels but not enough to worry about.
post #216 of 801
Ricci,

Thank you for your explanation.

James
post #217 of 801
Could you have a leak in the enclosure or around the speaker mount or terminals area?
post #218 of 801
My guess? One woofer or VC is wired out of phase. Sorry if this isn't it, or if it's insulting, but I'm a fan of trying simple solutions first.

Try hooking up a 9V battery to each enclosure at the speaker wire. To check the two woofers within an enclosure, doesn't matter which way the batt's hooked up, but the woofers should move the same way, both out of box, or both into box. Because they're DVC, it's even possible one woofer might be hooked up not to move under power, which the amp probably wouldn't like. The choice of a 60Hz frequency was problematic, because there's actually enough of a phase difference at 60Hz that you'll get some output with one type of wrong hookup. DC should solve that problem... So the guess is that one woofer is hooked up to move the wrong way, or not at all.

Also, the multimeter tells you the woofers are hooked up, yes, but not necessarily the right way.
post #219 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan View Post

Could you have a leak in the enclosure or around the speaker mount or terminals area?

Is there a way to check for this as that's what I'm wondering as well? Looked at the terminal cups and they are on pretty darn tight (used some soft cell foam under them as well). I put extra glue and caulk on the interior of the sub (and exterior where the baffle is), plus I just checked the woofers and they seem on tight as well, but could be leaks there I guess?

Just checked the voltage with a much higher SPL from a 60hz test tone, both woofers were measuring 4.2 on the meter (well, one was 4.2, the other 4.3).
post #220 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlag View Post

My guess? One woofer or VC is wired out of phase. Sorry if this isn't it, or if it's insulting, but I'm a fan of trying simple solutions first.

Try hooking up a 9V battery to each enclosure at the speaker wire. To check the two woofers within an enclosure, doesn't matter which way the batt's hooked up, but the woofers should move the same way, both out of box, or both into box. Because they're DVC, it's even possible one woofer might be hooked up not to move under power, which the amp probably wouldn't like. The choice of a 60Hz frequency was problematic, because there's actually enough of a phase difference at 60Hz that you'll get some output with one type of wrong hookup. DC should solve that problem... So the guess is that one woofer is hooked up to move the wrong way, or not at all.

Also, the multimeter tells you the woofers are hooked up, yes, but not necessarily the right way.

Not insulting at all! Would love it if it was a stupid easy to fix mistake. So I just take a small 9V battery and touch the banana plugs to each side (+/- doesn't matter?)?
post #221 of 801
Thread Starter 
BINGO! On the faulty sub one of the woofers pushed out while the other pulled inwards on the 9V batter test. Thank you!

Now for the painful process of pulling the woofers.
post #222 of 801
Thread Starter 
Fixed!! Lucked out and the first woofer I removed clearly showed I connected the black wire to the red terminal (my wires are all white and I used black electrical tape on the ends to mark them but like a moron connected it to the red anyhow! ).

Just watching the Pacific, amp channels now make sense (the sub near the doorway requires a tad more gain than the one up against the wall, but not much).

Have my fronts crossed at 150hz, will see how it goes. Hopefully take some measurements tomorrow evening (wife and son may be out for a bit).
post #223 of 801
glad that is all that it was, now you can get on with the fun!
post #224 of 801
Thread Starter 
Yeah, me too. By fun do you mean incessant measuring and tweaking while listening, constantly, to test tones?
post #225 of 801
Thread Starter 
On a completely uneventful note, had to watch The Pacific at -30db to reference with my son asleep upstairs. So hard to really compare how the subs were doing!!

Crossed my fronts at 150hz just to try them out, and again, this may be a useless comment given I've never watched that particular episode before, but it did sound like my fronts were having a much easier time reproducing what they needed to. Things seemed clearer than they normally were with Pacific, in particular with ambient noises and speech (which I complained about in the Pacific thread on the sub forum and others in Canada have as well as it appears the mix up here is more compressed).

But that could just be new sub placebo effect.

Oh, and the fan noise was utterly attrocious. I'm quite picky when it comes to noises and the fan was audible 95% of the time (outside of some battles scenes). Hopefully my new fan will arrive shortly, though I'm not looking forward to trying to get that amp out of the rack given I had to remove the doors to get it in the first time around (may just pull it out the back).
post #226 of 801
Glad to hear you're back up and running well.

One gotcha with having different gross gain levels between identical subs is that your overall max level will be limited, in that one sub will limit/bottom before the other. Not a practical problem if you're never maxing either out, but it's there.

Probably better to just keep the sub gains the same, eq as necessary between the two subs, and live with (presumably inaudible) gross level differences. That you can measure a difference one sub at a time does not mean you can hear it with both on; can you? I'm assuming your room's pretty much gone modal by the time you hit the 150Hz crossover...
post #227 of 801
Thread Starter 
The gains are so close I doubt it will be an issue either way (probably the fact that the additional gains from the extra boundary in the corner are offset by the better FR achieved from the other side?), but yes, I can simply set them the same given it's not that big of a difference.

If I can get home at a decent time tonight and am alone I'll try to run some sweeps at varoius SPLs and various x-overs.
post #228 of 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

So on my way to the airport today I stopped off a the Paradigm factory in their Parts and Service Dept. Went in and asked how much for the "plastic" feet similar to the Signature model (except the signature model is metal), so guess these are the ones that come on the Studio line. Look the same.

Guy says he didn't have the price list, then says "hey you're the guy that had to take his S2 in twice for repair right?". I replied "yup, that's me", he asks how many speakers I needed feet for, mention 2, and he gives 8 feet to me free of charge!

I saw the picture in your HT thread and wondered where you got the feet. Now I know. Maybe I'll stop by somewhere and see if I can buy the feet. Do they have a slight curve on the inside where they mount to the enclosure?
post #229 of 801
Thread Starter 
No, they are a 90 degree angle, so they don't meet perfectly at the bottom given the rounded edges on my woofer. Actually, I've currently got them on with Velcro as they are just their for looks more than anything else. Debating whether to put in threaded inserts.
post #230 of 801
I didn't provide you with enough info. While there is that 90deg angle from the bottom to the upright side, I was curious if the upright side had a slight curve in it from front to back, which would fit flush against a curve walled enclosure like the Studio and Sig series speakers.
post #231 of 801
pbc, I'm glad you got everything worked out with the subs (except the fan). I'm sure in the next few days, you're going to let us know how the subs sound for both SQ/HT. Also, are you going to test them vs your ultra 13? Maybe a one on one comparison?
post #232 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber View Post

I didn't provide you with enough info. While there is that 90deg angle from the bottom to the upright side, I was curious if the upright side had a slight curve in it from front to back, which would fit flush against a curve walled enclosure like the Studio and Sig series speakers.

Nope, no slight curves on it...
post #233 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post

pbc, I'm glad you got everything worked out with the subs (except the fan). I'm sure in the next few days, you're going to let us know how the subs sound for both SQ/HT. Also, are you going to test them vs your ultra 13? Maybe a one on one comparison?

May try to test it eventually against the Ultra if I find the time. Going to try and run some REW curves of the room right now at the LP if I can recall how to setup the SB USB audio device and REW on my computer in time before my son gets home...
post #234 of 801
Thread Starter 
Hmmm .... as I'm setting up the REW I've been watching the Pods Emerging scene at -7db. I can tell you these subs must be rolling off significantly as they are no where near the visceral impact of the PB13 even in sealed mode. Somewhat surprised by this actually. Barely felt anything when the Pod breaks through the ground which is typically rumbling my house insanely. Even when the Pod starts to fire it's lasers, very little impact whatsoever in comparison. Suprising given the lasers I thought were around 25 to 35hz so I would have figured these puppies would shine at that.

Hopefully some graphs to follow shortly that will explain what is going on...
post #235 of 801
Thread Starter 
WEIRD, so I'm using my laptops internal card, and when sending a signal to my processor at a high level (say -10db on the processor) to get a level of at least 75db, my receiver's protection goes off and the AVR shuts down and light starts to flash. What the heck?? Wonder if it's because I've unplugged my mains and the AVR is still set to 7.1?
post #236 of 801
Thread Starter 
Took several measurements (turned out I should have unplugged my front speakers at the AVR, not the speaker ...). Had clipping errors when I tried to run graphs above 90db (not sure if that was my processor/amp or computer sound card), but will post the results anyhow.






This one is with the S2's and Subs together crossed at 150hz ...



Meter used is the Galaxy CM-140 with appropriate calibration file applied to REW.

Thoughts? Anything else I should post from REW?
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post #237 of 801
"Had clipping errors when I tried to run graphs above 90db"

maybe that's your answer?
post #238 of 801
Thread Starter 
Here is the response 6" from the cone for each sub ...

Corner Sub



Doorway Sub


LL
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post #239 of 801
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"Had clipping errors when I tried to run graphs above 90db"

maybe that's your answer?

Are you saying above 90 the amp will clip? Sorry, not sure what you're inferring (not a power user of REW or measurements for that matter so go easy on me!).
post #240 of 801
Thread Starter 
Here are all the sub only measurements on one graph (didn't realize that tab was there!)...


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