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Dual Opposed AV15H Subwoofer Build - Page 3

post #61 of 801
3/28/10 at 12:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

A few pics of what I called "boredom with stains" ....





Leaning towards the middle one, like the reddish brown notes.

I like the center redish brown too but the left and right colors hide the exposed ply better.
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post #62 of 801
3/28/10 at 3:30pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gperkins1973 View Post

Hi mate,

Yep! 3/4" wood. My first sub was out of 1" thick wood and that was fine. My router isn't and expensive one. I used this one:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/31965/...P-1500W-Router

I just used a normal router bit and routed away!

I have just looked at the specs of your amp. Yulks, how much power. Its rated at 2500 watts stereo into 2 ohms. Is that rms and how accurate is that because that could be the answer to all my prayers.

cheers

Graham

I think QSC power specs are pretty accurate. Check the QSC PLX rated amp in the amp measurement threads.

I'll be using 4ohm in stereo though. Big mother of an amp, some 75lbs!
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post #63 of 801
3/28/10 at 3:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

I like the center redish brown too but the left and right colors hide the exposed ply better.

Agreed, I just think it'll be too dark for the room, we'll see. I'm starting to be partial to the look of the exposed ply ... call me sentimental.
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post #64 of 801
3/28/10 at 3:34pm
Thread Starter 
Not a lot done today, but I committed to my original design and cut the tops then veneered the edges of the tops (sides will get veneered after they are glued together).

Basically plan on either a 1" Grill and try to recess magnets, or a 3/4" thick grill with 1/4" magnets simply glued to the back (leaning towards this). So the grill will eventually come out approx. 1/4" which I think will look pretty decent.




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post #65 of 801
3/28/10 at 3:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Agreed, I just think it'll be too dark for the room, we'll see. I'm starting to be partial to the look of the exposed ply ... call me sentimental.

Come to think of it I use to have a Revel Ultima Sub15 with Oak panels and the panels had the ply on the round-over exposed too. I never thought it looked bad, in fact it was one of the best looking subs I have ever owned.

Is it easy to add the veneer to the edges? I was planning on doing that in the future myself.
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post #66 of 801
3/28/10 at 3:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

I think QSC power specs are pretty accurate. Check the QSC PLX rated amp in the amp measurement threads.

I'll be using 4ohm in stereo though. Big mother of an amp, some 75lbs!

Which QSC weights 75lbs? The PLX amps sure don't.
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post #67 of 801
3/28/10 at 4:07pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

Which QSC weights 75lbs? The PLX amps sure don't.

My RMX 5050 ... sorry, my response was a tad confusing...
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post #68 of 801
3/28/10 at 4:07pm
If I remember correctly he is using the QSC RMX-5050 or 4050
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post #69 of 801
3/28/10 at 4:09pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

Come to think of it I use to have a Revel Ultima Sub15 with Oak panels and the panels had the ply on the round-over exposed too. I never thought it looked bad, in fact it was one of the best looking subs I have ever owned.

Is it easy to add the veneer to the edges? I was planning on doing that in the future myself.

Pretty easy. They sell rolls of "tape" veneer that are just over 3/4" in width that you cut to size, then iron on (they already have glue applied to them which is activatef/melted by the heat of the iron).

I'm going to let mine cool a couple hours then trim off the excess with a veneer knife. Guess the bigger Q is how long will it last without peeling!
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post #70 of 801
3/29/10 at 3:17pm
Thread Starter 
Well, saved myself the $125 "Broker clearing" fee and went to pick up my drivers at the airport location after getting a call. Well, two of the four anyhow. After a comedy of errors. Shipper gave me the papers to go to customs to get cleared, customs brokers claim they need a "goods received stamp" on the paperwork, go back to the shipper and they say they've never heard of that before, go back to the Customs officers and they end up clearing it after griping about it, go back to the shipper to pick them up and the shipper notices the Customs officer forgot to stamp the goods as cleared! Go back to the Customs office to get the stamp, finally make it back to the shipper. They tell me to drive over to door 44, get to that door and drive inside. The guy is going back and forth for 5 minutes and I'm thinking "here we go". Comes over and says "ummm ... we only have 2 boxes". Head back to the desk, guy looks into it and is very apologetic but says "unfortunately the next shipment doesn't get here until 9/10pm". So I take the two, and now have to figure out how to be "home" again tomorrow between 4 and 5 ... Grrr!!
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post #71 of 801
3/29/10 at 3:20pm
Thread Starter 
"Say hello to my little friends" ...





I know, some people don't like the logo, but personally I do. Besides, AE deserves props for building what I hope are such impressive drivers!
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post #72 of 801
3/29/10 at 3:26pm
Thread Starter 
Let the gluing begin!


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post #73 of 801
3/29/10 at 3:33pm
Thread Starter 
Okay, next dumb question. What is the easiest way to get the screws into the wood? I.e., there doesn't appear to be much "wood" to play with on the edges. Do I simply pencil in where the screws should go, drill in the barbed or threaded inserts (or whatever they're called??) and then double check that everything fits right?? I was going to try using wall anchors, but there just doesn't appear to be enough wood to hold them?

Also, what size/type bolts are used? The drivers didn't come with anything?
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post #74 of 801
3/29/10 at 3:48pm
Hurricane, t-nuts or barbed inserts can be tricky to use, you have to make sure the holes are drilled straight or you will have a hard time getting the screws in. Since you are working with ply I would just use something like this, you can probably find something similar at your local hardware store. The other insert type driver mounting comes in handy if your constantly removing and re-installing but they can be a major league pain.
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post #75 of 801
3/29/10 at 3:49pm
Just re-reading your post you are only talking about the screws to mount the driver right?
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post #76 of 801
3/29/10 at 4:05pm
Thread Starter 
Yeah, just to mount the driver to the baffle. So you're recco'ing no insert/anchor?

What size hex socket heads do I use for the AV15's anyhow?
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post #77 of 801
3/29/10 at 4:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Yeah, just to mount the driver to the baffle. So you're recco'ing no insert/anchor?

What size hex socket heads do I use for the AV15's anyhow?

I don't think the benefits of using a t-nut or barbed insert is worth the potential hassle. I have used them with success in the past but have had problems too. I had one strip on me but luckily is was in a PR box so I could remove the PR and grab the t-nut with a vise grip to free it.

Ply's are a lot more screw friendly than MDF, you will just want to pre-drill the hole. Even in MDF I would rather use screws unless it is a test box and I plan on mounting and removing numerous drivers.

There are a lot of times when t-nuts make a lot of sense but in your case I would pass.

With t-nuts you have to make sure you drill the hole straight, It is best to use a drill press.

As far as size it depends on your mounting holes, I would imagine the AE drivers are standard for a 15". You should be able to use a #8 1" to 1 1/8" long. I have some of these which I like for heavier drivers but I normally use size 8.
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post #78 of 801
3/29/10 at 4:51pm
another nice looking treatment I have seen is to paint the raw edges black where the veneer is not applied,, offers a nice accent and depending on the veneer colors finish can really make it stand out,,

Derry
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post #79 of 801
3/29/10 at 6:05pm
I used size 8 screws for my AV15X sub and it worked fine.
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post #80 of 801
3/29/10 at 6:37pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derry View Post

another nice looking treatment I have seen is to paint the raw edges black where the veneer is not applied,, offers a nice accent and depending on the veneer colors finish can really make it stand out,,

Derry

Yeah, considered that as well...
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post #81 of 801
3/29/10 at 6:44pm
Thread Starter 
Joe's idea of those 1" anchor bolts are a life saver, tried them out on some scrap and even within say 3/8" to the edge as long as you drill a 1/4" pilot hole and screw them in by hand it looks like the wood stays safe. Sweet!

Will go with 1 1/8" # 8's, but they didn't have any of the black hex head screws at Home Depot of course. Will try Lowes and/or Home Hardware when I get a chance.

Or maybe just order from here ....

http://www.solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catal...2=2&niveau3=51

But will take a few days to get here. Looks like they carry them on the Lowes US site, so hopefully they have them in store up here in Canada as well...
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post #82 of 801
3/30/10 at 5:13am
Thread Starter 
Wow, $22 shipping charges if I want to ship those hex head screws from Solen.ca, no thanks! Sure hope Lowes or Home Hardware carries them (someone must!).

Next Qs, can someone tell me a) what I need to install and wire the woofers and b) how one goes about wiring the subs, and c) do I need some soft cell foam stripping between the ply and the woofer?

I need to wire them as follows:

Quote:


With the dual 4ohm you can wire coils in series for 8ohm, then drivers in parallel for 4ohm. Then wire one pair off each channel of the amp.
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post #83 of 801
3/30/10 at 5:41pm
Thread Starter 
The twins ... noticed I messed up on the terminal cup, should have put one of the cups on the other side of the board given one will be on the left and the other at the right so the cups would both be on the "backer" half of the subs, but I'll live. Tops/baffles not glued yet, and need to complete dowells. Still waiting for the shipper to find my other two drivers.



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post #84 of 801
3/30/10 at 5:42pm
Thread Starter 
Can anyone assist on the wiring Q above?
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post #85 of 801
3/30/10 at 6:01pm
Go to Lee Valley at Morningside and Finch. They have all the hardware and bolts including the hex cap bolts you are looking for. Thats where I got mine from.

I used 1/4" barbed inserts for all my speakers and subs. They worked out amazingly.

Like these but no flange on top.

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,45375




Mike

P.S. They also have every kind of magnet ou would want. They have earth magnets which are extremely strong and will make sure nothing will rattle.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...48&cat=3,42363
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post #86 of 801
3/30/10 at 6:05pm
Thread Starter 
Was just there this past Sunday, didn't even think of looking for the socket head screws oddly enough.
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post #87 of 801
3/30/10 at 6:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post


I need to wire them as follows:

Here is a calculator I use for series and parallel:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

It has an illustration of how they are wired as well. It is not easy for me to explain, hopefully someone else can explain it or I will give it a shot later tonight when I have more time.

Here is also an explanation from parts express:

http://www.parts-express.com/resources/parser.html
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post #88 of 801
3/30/10 at 6:40pm
You should also pick up a multimeter to measure the resistance from the binding posts to make sure you wired them correctly. The last thing you want is to have wired them up wrong and wind up showing your amp a 1 ohm load which could do a lot of harm to both the amp and drivers.
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post #89 of 801
3/31/10 at 5:02am
Thread Starter 
Thanks, John sent me this ..

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5ANm1Um...rs_wiring.html

Though it didn't look like any of them were dual voice coils wired in series for 8ohm and then parallel to 4ohm into a 2 ch amp.

Have flipped another email to John hoping he'll clarify. Thanks for the tip re: measuring the resistance, will have to figure that out as well (i.e., what exactly to measure (I assume just touch the black and red wires that would connect to the terminal cup to measure the OHM at that point?

Also, what wires are used and do people typically solder them or connect via some other method?
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post #90 of 801
3/31/10 at 8:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Thanks, John sent me this ..

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-5ANm1Um...rs_wiring.html

Though it didn't look like any of them were dual voice coils wired in series for 8ohm and then parallel to 4ohm into a 2 ch amp.

What you have to do is look at the diagram for a wiring a single driver DVC 4ohm for 8ohms and wire both subs that way forgetting about the amp. Then look at how a dual 8 ohm coil sub is wired to get a 4ohm load and connect it that way to the binding posts. At first it can be difficult to understand but just be patient and you can figure it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Have flipped another email to John hoping he'll clarify. Thanks for the tip re: measuring the resistance, will have to figure that out as well (i.e., what exactly to measure (I assume just touch the black and red wires that would connect to the terminal cup to measure the OHM at that point?

When you go to your local hardware store ask a knowledgeable sales person to explain how to use it. You could bring along a set of binding posts and explain to them what you are trying to do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Also, what wires are used and do people typically solder them or connect via some other method?

If your soldering you only want to solder at the binding posts. I don't own any AE subs but I imagine they have push terminals on the woofer so there is no soldering needed there.
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