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Dual Opposed AV15H Subwoofer Build - Page 4

post #91 of 801
3/31/10 at 1:53pm
Thread Starter 
John replied ... it's this one ...

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf..._4-ohm_2ch.jpg
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post #92 of 801
4/1/10 at 5:48pm
Thread Starter 
Well, tried Lee Valley, didn't have any socket head screws smaller than size 10 which doesn't fit. Neither does Loews (only had a few at $1.57 for 2!). May have to have them delivered. Grrr...
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post #93 of 801
4/1/10 at 8:16pm
I thought they would have them for sure. Sorry about that.
I tried to do a good deed for the day as I was going to send you the ones I had, but I guess they got lost in my move to Edmonton from Toronto a couple months ago.

You may also try Papco/Paulin, Brafasco on Progress west of markham road, online a company called CRL(C.R. Lawrence), Solen, or even places like LLong and McQuade pro shop.

Mike
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post #94 of 801
4/2/10 at 4:40am
Thread Starter 
Thanks Mike. Will try to check out Brafasco (there's one relatively close to my work Downtown as the stores are only open til 5, M-F). Didn't think Paulin had store locations?
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post #95 of 801
4/2/10 at 4:41am
Thread Starter 
BTW, it it recco'd to line the walls of a sealed box with fibreglass (or whatever lining) even if I'll be using lots of polyfil?
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post #96 of 801
4/2/10 at 9:32am
Not to worry, Brafasco will have the screws you are looking for...

Happy Trails!
MTB Vince
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post #97 of 801
4/3/10 at 5:33am
Thread Starter 
Think I'll just order what I need from Solen, Brafasco isn't open til Monday and I won't have the 3rd and 4th drivers til say Tuesday. So I'll just continue the work next weekend.

Started gluing one of the boxes last night ...



LL
LL
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post #98 of 801
4/3/10 at 5:36am
Thread Starter 
Looks like the top piece is now just over 1/8" too large for some reason. So going to try and shave off a tad off each side with the jig saw and guide, and redo the round overs. If that doesn't work, I need to buy some more wood anyhow for the grills and possibly for at least 1 outer baffle (didn't turn out so well), so no biggie if worse comes to worse!
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post #99 of 801
4/3/10 at 7:16am
Thread Starter 
Shaving off the sides worked pretty darn good (that 55" Husky Saw Guide has been a great investment thus far!).

Dropped in a driver this morning to see what it looks like and check how the outer baffles look. At least 1 has to be redone as the circle was oddly horrendous! Maybe 2 as it has a large splintered piece of wood on the face about 3" long that willl likely soak up too much stain and may look odd. The final 2 are just about perfect.

Here are some pics. First is of course with no outer baffle ... admittedly I've impressed myself given that this is really the first wood working thing I've done that required precision!





LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #100 of 801
4/3/10 at 7:19am
Thread Starter 
Top hasn't been glued yet obviously (just holding it on with a clamp). Speaking of, bought 4 of these cheap plastic "jobmate" clamps from CDN Tire. While they're fine with light duty, I've already broken one. First time I used it I didn't realize they were only for relatively light clamping and kept pressing the trigger to tighten the clamp and snap, broke the plastic piece off! But for $7 each (50% off) they do the job as I use my metal ones for the initial clamping and after a couple hours can replace it with the plastic ones and move on to the next glue piece.
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post #101 of 801
4/3/10 at 7:22am
Thread Starter 
Hopefully my final 2 drivers, magnets and screws will be in by end of this week so next weekend I can stain. Haven't figured out how to install the magnets yet.

Assume I can just drill some holes into the outbaffle which I'm sure will be tricky to ensure I don't pop right through (maybe mark the drill bit about 1/2" or a tad more). Unless there is an easier way of doing this?

May forgo the fan mod for now and see just how loud the fan is in my rack.
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post #102 of 801
4/3/10 at 7:36am
look'n good pbc. i bet that we will see more builds like this one in the future. it has many advantages.
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post #103 of 801
4/3/10 at 9:05am
Thread Starter 
Just crossing my fingers that once hooked up it doesn't blow up!
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post #104 of 801
4/3/10 at 10:09am
i wouldn't worry about blowing it apart. change in pressure is relative to change in volume and even less if you throw some fiberglass stuffing in there. even though it seems like a lot, the actually change in psi is quite small. pv=nrt ;-)

if you are afraid about drilling through the front panel, you could always split the difference and drill 1/2 the hole for the magnet in the back baffle, 1/2 the hole for the magnet in the front baffle, and then sandwich the magnets in there. if you are using those neodymium round magnets, they are pretty strong and will "grip" through a lot of wood. you can test that out yourself before deciding what you need.
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post #105 of 801
4/3/10 at 11:56am
Thread Starter 
Interesting, when the mags come in I'll have a look at how strong they are.

Hoping the glue is appyling enough pressure inside the box to seal it. Are people using say a latex caulk (such as the Apex "35 year" white caulking?) to seal the insides of their subs?

Also, I purchased some 12 gauge stranded wire from Home Depot to wire up the woofers. Just curious, but how are people connecting the stranded wires to the terminal cup? Looks like they may have to be soldered on?
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post #106 of 801
4/3/10 at 12:15pm
"Are people using say a latex caulk"

some caulk with caulk. some "caulk" with white glue. others "caulk" with a super adhesive call pl premium. http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products/...PLProductID=14

others have even used strips of 1"x1" and glued them along the seems. you can get as carried away as you want. ;-) the glue that you used is probably good enough. caulking the whole thing will just ensure you don't have any remaining leaks. if you make it super air tight, put a pin-hole in it somewhere otherwise you might see your sub swell and shrink (drivers will pop out) with changes in internal temp and changes in atmospheric pressure.
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post #107 of 801
4/4/10 at 9:04am
Thread Starter 
What .. you're saying my sub WILL explode!?
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post #108 of 801
4/4/10 at 9:05am
Thread Starter 
Okay, figured what the heck, on with the top!


LL
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post #109 of 801
4/4/10 at 10:24am
I glue all of my enclosures when being built. I still use a silicone caulk to completely seal the box. You don't want to go through the whole process of building to find out you have an air leak later. Caulk is cheap.

Looking forward to your impressions when completed. I have thought about a similiar build. What is the internal volume of each enclosure?
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post #110 of 801
4/4/10 at 10:40am
"What .. you're saying my sub WILL explode!?"

lol. no, it will just cause a little increase in distortion.
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post #111 of 801
4/4/10 at 10:59am
I don't honestly think that any subwoofer enclosure is perfectly sealed. The box will always leak a minute amount even if it is through the wood itself. Also drivers also will pass air through certain cone materials and surrounds.
This is totally acceptable and is a good thing for changes in air temp. I would never bother drilling a "breather" hole in an enclosure as it is totally unnecessary.
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post #112 of 801
4/4/10 at 11:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff76 View Post

I glue all of my enclosures when being built. I still use a silicone caulk to completely seal the box. You don't want to go through the whole process of building to find out you have an air leak later. Caulk is cheap.

Looking forward to your impressions when completed. I have thought about a similiar build. What is the internal volume of each enclosure?

Internal volume is around 90 to 100L before fill which I understand can add up to 30% or so?



Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"What .. you're saying my sub WILL explode!?"

lol. no, it will just cause a little increase in distortion.

Was kidding on the explode comment .... sort of!
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post #113 of 801
4/4/10 at 5:21pm
Thread Starter 
This may have been answered, but in terms of connecting the 12 awg stranded wire to the terminal cups, how is that best done to ensure they don't fall off? Must they be soldered (was hoping to avoid that)?


LL
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post #114 of 801
4/4/10 at 5:32pm
Solder 'em. It's the only way you'll securely attach them.
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post #115 of 801
4/4/10 at 5:40pm
Thread Starter 
So what's the best way to solder stranded wire to that kind of attachment? Have only soldered once or twice before.
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post #116 of 801
4/4/10 at 5:49pm
I would cut off about 1/4" of the insulation from the wire, twist the end of the wires up, then tin the end of the wire. Then get some solder on the flat tab. Then hold the two together and heat them up until the solder on the two flow together remove the heat without moving the joint while it cools.
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post #117 of 801
4/4/10 at 6:06pm
As Stereodude said soldering would be best but if you really don't want to solder you could use something like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=095-290

These will be available at you local hardware store. Just as long as they are on there tight you won't have any problems.
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post #118 of 801
4/4/10 at 6:55pm
crimp-on spade connectors?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/Full/jh76.jpg
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post #119 of 801
4/4/10 at 7:02pm
Solder! Solder! Solder!

You can do it PBC
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post #120 of 801
4/4/10 at 8:37pm
+1 for spade connections
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