Official Samsung LNXXC630/C650 Owners Thread - Page 168

It's mentioned on page 36 of the instructions but there's not much information on it.

The DivX site does have more info, but I'm still a little in the dark regarding what this does and why I'd want to do it.

Is this for purchased movies? Where do you purchase such movies from?

Having devices "phone home" to check that they're authorized always sounds a little evil to me. Would getting the code forbid playback of other videos that are not authorized?

Try "messaging" it out by gently rubbing with the pink microfiber cloth. Circular motion from the pixel toward away. If it goes away, don't look for it again. If it doesn't, pretend it did! I still think it is amazing that there can be a perfect electrical connection to millions of pixels that are rather reliable. But I too would have a tough time ignoring a bad pixel. I gave my 55" a once over when I got it and I don't get up close to check it anymore. /Dan

With your requirements (no internet usage) they are really the same TV with different screens (glossy/matte). Save the money since there will be something new and bigger you will want in 3 or so years. My opinion (I have the C650 though for the glossy and internet). /Dan

Thanks for your response. I was just wondering if the C650 with 30,000 more contract ratio would have a better picture quality than the C630. I have heard from other people that said the picture quality of both C650 and C630 are about the same.

Went to my local BB and exchanged my AA06 46C630 for an SQ05 panel they had in stock.

SQ05> AA06 /enough said

The C650 has the UCP (Ultra Clear Panel), which is glossy, compared to the 46C630 which has the matte panel. Better is in the eye of the beholder, but the UCP definitely adds more pop to the picture and makes the blacks much more inky black than the matte panel in my opinion. And in my well lit room, reflections really aren't an issue for me with the glossy panel. I love it.

I have my 40C653 since 6.01.2011 and a have a stuck pixel on red. It is not noticeble only if u look for it. I have found it after a pixel test. My panel is SQ01 and i havent send it back because the panel lotery. Beside that i am very happy with my TV and some people said that it has gone away after some months of use.

Thanks... I have set up the system a little more and am happier by the moment. I think the set was cold because it seems fine now.... even with AMP off. I never really liked how AMP worked on my A650 but like it much better for sports on the C630. One thing that has me a "tad" perplexed is how I am watching a certain channel and colors are vibrant then they go to a different view (say when watching Golf for example) then the picture looks a bit washed out. It is hard to explain and I need to tweak the set a bit more before coming to a conclusion.

But I can say this, the off angle viewing is definitely better than my previous AA02 panels. One last thing, when the TV is off I notice some of the lit objects reflecting off the TV have a strong "rainbow" glow to them. Not all, but just some... I never noticed this with my A650 and this is a moot point but a strange observation I would like to throw out there.

Overall the SQ03 seems much more uniform than my 2 previous AA02 panels. The colors are a tad softer but there is little bleed through when lights are off and there is a "minimal" flashlight on the lower left.... so far the only way I knew it was [even] there was I shut off all the lights and turned off the cable box which goes to a "black" screen saver" with a floating logo. Then I looked at it again with a white screen and side bars, had slightly more effect but nothing that would bother me... yet.

The 40" and 46" versions of the C630 have a Matte screen where as the 55" of the C630 version has a "glossy" screen. Is it a UCP? I do not know but it is glossy on the 55C630....

I answered this a couple days ago - here Do not, repeat, DO NOT pay any attention to a manufacturers contrast claims. They are bogus. Read this: Understanding Contrast


There are huge differences in picture quality from different programs/networks/even cameras. There is one HD channel I watch often that has a camera that is totally off. They do a lot of interviews where the screen is split, each side a different camera. The bad camera makes skin tones a ghostly white, like the gamma goes completely off the chart from about 70 IRE and higher.

Hi

Is there any calibration settings (icc, or manual) for a LE 46C650?

Your set is an individual, like a face or a fingerprint. It needs to be calibrated thusly. You can try other people's numbers and here is a thread full of them - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243937

Some may look good to you, others will not. One thing is certain - they will not be correct for your display.

buzzard767 gave me a great link to follow:


I went through this yesterday - great improvement! On my LN46C630 the only test I really couldn't do was the sharpness test - the extremes had a little effect but there were no halos or white edges at any setting I could see, so I left it at default.

On test #4 (Flashing Color Bars) go to Menu - Picture - Advanced Settings - RGB Only Mode - Blue to set the blue filter on.

Note that the picture settings are set differently for every input (HDMI, TV, component etc.) so you may want to copy them down somewhere and apply them to all your inputs. I understand that the calibration should be done independently for every input because the source affects the resulting images but sometimes that isn't possible - there's no way to display these calibration images over the TV input, for example.

Unfortunately the calibration can't be done completely using the MP4 file on a USB drive through the media player because you can't access the Advanced Settings picture menu from the media player to activate the blue filter. In the media player, you can only access picture settings through the Tools menu and that doesn't provide access to Advanced Settings. If you hit the menu button it kicks you out of the media player. I have a WD TV Live box, so I used that over HDMI instead.

Actually, there is a way to globalize the settings. In the service menu Cal-Day and Cal-Night modes can be enabled and set to "all inputs". This adds the two modes to the Picture Mode menu. Any setting in any input is applied across the board.

One warning, and I don't have a clue why Samsung would have it set up this way, if you go back into the service menu all of the numbers for both (and only) 10 point Grayscale and Color Management System will be reset to factory.

Cool! How do you get into the service menu on these TVs and is it safe?

First post here....just thought I'd share my experience, FWIW.

Purchased a LN55C630 a few weeks ago at Best Buy. Had it delivered...panel version was SQ01 with firmware version 2010/02/17_001002.

Once I got it all hooked up and turned it on, I was pretty impressed. My previous TV (now in the basement with the Wii for the kids) was a 55" Mitsubishi Diamond rear-projection...the flagship model from 2004. A very nice (and spendy...at the time) set that I had ISF calibrated. Still a tough picture to beat to this day, IMO. Anyway, I was pretty happy with the new Sammy.....until about 20 minutes after I turned it on.

This thing was an absolute LEMON. I have read through the bulk of this thread and haven't seen anyone describe the same problems that I had. Basically, once the set 'warmed up', the picture would go in and out. It looked as if a giant hand was wiping the picture away, from right to left. It would go out for just a second, and then come back. 10-15 seconds later, it would happen again. The longer the set was on, the worse it would get. Tried several inputs (HDMI, Component, Composite)...all were the same. Also, the resolution on the TV completely deteriorated and basically became unwatchable.

Called BB, asked for a replacement, which they promptly agreed to (no questions asked!). They delivered me a new one two days later and took the old one away. This new one has panel version AA04, and I noticed that the firmware version on this one is much newer (2010/09/15_001005). Anyway, I must say that this new set, after about a week and a half of watching it, is REALLY NICE so far! Even my wife, who was used to watching a high end, professionally calibrated HDTV, noticed how nice the picture looks.

This TV has a ton of adjustment options, which is great. I've gone through and performed some basic adjustments, and when I have time I'll really dive into it. But my first impression with this (second) set is that this is a great LCD for the price.

Some observations:

- my initial impressions on overall picture quality is that this thing ROCKS. So colorful, crisp, and clear. My main video source is a Direct TV HD DVR with and HDMI connection. SD channels, as expected, look crappy....but that is expected. But whoa....HD Theater, Discovery HD, etc.....looks awesome!

- black levels, once a few adjustments were made, look great.

- Haven't connected a blu-ray player yet, but regular old DVD's, connected with component cables, look very nice.

- skin tones looked strange at first, but with a little tweaking, no problems.

- the black screen test: turning the source on a given input OFF to check out a completely black screen looks decent. With a CCFL backlit LCD, especially this big, I would actually EXPECT to see some level of light leakage around the edges and/or at the corners. Testing this out, nothing really jumped out at me. Standing up off the couch and moving over to the side, you can start to see the edges of the TV lighten up a bit, but from my normal viewing position with a totally black screen, I see no issues.

- off-angle viewing seems fine to me. We have seating all across the living room, and it looks good from all positions. From the extreme positions, the picture lightens up a bit, but it's and LCD. Whaddya expect?

- the AMP feature makes things look weird. We were watching a sitcom, and when the people moved...I dunno how to explain it, maybe this is what people refer to as the "soap opera effect". Whatever it is, I didn't like it. Very strange to me, and very noticeable. I changed it to "clear"...that seemed to help. Watched football on Sunday and I could tell a difference when I switched it between "off" and "clear". Perhaps I'll play with the custom AMP settings when I have some time.

- the looks of this TV are great (the bezel, the stand)...very minimal and stylish. Being able to swivel the TV on the stand is an added bonus.

- I have no complaints with the glossy screen. I have a lot of windows in the living room, and during the day, things still look very nice. I suppose if I really concentrated on trying to pick out reflections, I could find some, but it just isn't a big deal to me. I think it looks nice, both on and off.

- the first TV that I received had a blanking insert (for wall mounting) and a little deal to secure the TV to the wall to prevent it from tipping. The second TV I received did not come with these items. I thought that was a bit strange.

- the speakers on this TV suck. They fire downwards. I stuck my head behind the TV to make a connection and they actually sounded better back there. Not a showstopper since I have a receiver and speakers to set up...just haven't got there yet.


So anyway, that's my experience so far. Like I said, I've read through the bulk of this thread, and it really seems like people are getting so hung up on black levels not black enough, I have XXXX panel version and I hear that XXXX panel version is better, viewing off-angle isn't perfect, etc. There was one post several pages back that summed it up nicely for me, where the poster said something like "people expect perfection from something that, technically, cannot achieve perfection". Now quality will certainly vary from one make/model to the next, but sure seems like there are some people out there that will just never be satisfied with any TV that they get (is that called "TVlitis"). What it boils down to is "does it look good TO YOU?".

Don't get so hung up on the little things, and purchase from a reputable retailer that has a good exchange policy in the event you get a bad TV, and you'll be happy.....I hope.

It's only safe if you know exactly what you are doing. Merely right clicking on an item can trigger a chain of events that might brick your TV.

1. Start with the TV OFF. Press mute, 1, 8, 2, Power fairly rapidly. The TV will power on to the last input and in a few seconds the service menu will appear.

2. Don't do anything other than follow these instructions.

3. Arrow down to Expert and press Enter

4. Select N/D ADJ with up/down arrow key and right click to ON

5. Press the Return key

6. Select Source and either right or left arrow to ALL

7. Press the Return key twice

8. Power OFF

9. Power ON and select Cal-Day Mode. Turn off all the auto or dynamic crap in both Advanced Settings and Picture Options. They are garbage and will only work against you.

10. Calibrate to your heart's content. Any setting you select will transfer to all inputs so you only have to enter once. The factory Modes, Dynamic, Standard, Natural, and Movie will remain unmolested.

Thanks for this info. I usually only switch between HDMI 1, and Antenna inputs, and when it came to calibrating, it was a mere annoyance that I had to apply calibration setting to each input separately. Easy enough now!

Unless Im missing something here, why would you want
to have the same settings on all inputs?
I have different settings for HD (HDMI), SD (Component),
Antenna, and DVD (HDMI)

Just confirmed DTS playback from USB - it works fine. SPDIF Audio Format will change to two options - PCM and DTS. I selected DTS and my A/V receiver switched to DTS. It's not converted either - the material was DTS ES and the receiver indicated so.

I suppose I'm the only one interested in this as I have an older non-HDMI receiver that doesn't have Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA and I'm only interested in the older formats that can be transmitted via SPDIF.

\\\\

Two reasons: Because you can and other peeps' needs might not be as diverse as yours.

In my case I use HDMI 1, 2, and the TV input. I calibrate on HDMI 1 (Blu-Ray). HDMI 2 is my Roku box for NetFlix. Both the Roku and the TV inputs are stunning.

This is my wife's telly anyway and I hardly ever watch it. You can find me in my man cave for serious critical viewing on a 75" LaserVue. However, every time I walk past the LN40C630 and it's one of my wife's dorky HD girlie channels on the TV input I do a double take. The picture is that good.

Now, if you don't choose "ALL" in the service menu as I described above, you can calibrate each input separately in both Cal-Day and Cal-Night and you can also do that in any of the other modes. There are lots of options.

If I'm in san Diego and not in snow-covered Toronto, I'm not taking up precious sunlight minutes at your house! Went to a conference at Torrey Pines a few years ago and loved SD. Seriously, though, I accept your comment. I'm sure the majority either have no issues or do, but don't really notice or let it bother them. I'm in the latter camp. I've seen far worse backlight bleeding out there than my own.

i know it would probably be overkill, but will this tv work with a 1.4 hdmi? i need to pick up some hdmi cables for my ps3, dish network box, and blu ray player. i haven't picked up a blu ray player yet, but when i do, it will be connected to my router wirelessly for streaming movies. the ps3 is also connected to the internet.

Yes.

Also, there is no longer such nomenclature as a 1.4 HDMI cable but that is another story. Get your cables at monoprice.com, a forum sponsor.

The HDMI cables I'm using with this state "HDMI 1.4 with audio return channel - supports 3D & Ethernet". Despite this, they were quite cheap.

Not sure what they mean by Ethernet over HDMI and yes, this TV does not need all that, but they work just fine for video and audio.

ok thanks.

would i benefit from 1.4 without 3D? i'm pretty sure i need the hi speed ethernet hdmi to get the best out of my ps3 and blu ray player. satellite dish i'm not so sure about

I'm an HDMI newbie but given the fact that PS3s and Blu-Ray players worked just fine with older HDMI 1.3 cables, the newer HDMI 1.4 cables are probably not necessary to get the "best" out of those devices.

Besides, these cables are digital, so the main thing to look for is sturdiness and reliability of the connectors and cable. I used to be big into audio and I don't want to start a cable war thread, but suffice it to say $149 for the Monster HDMI cables would be wasted.

Another good forum sponsor is Blue Jeans Cable - no-nonsense cables at a good price. They emphasize quality construction over Monster-style marketing.

Actually Blue Jeans Cable has a great article on the "HDMI 1.4" misnomer and Ethernet-over-HDMI here:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articl...e.htm?hdmiinfo

Hello,
I've had my eye on the 55LNC650 for quite some time and the price has finally dropped to my range. Looks like this set has great reviews except I have two last concerns, glare and input lag.

I've seen this set in stores and noticed the glossy screen. However, it shouldn't have as much glare compared to plasmas, correct?

I plan to do some gaming, for example FPS shooters. I'm more of a casual gamer and don't plan to play online, is the lag that noticeable?

Thanks

I have no experience with plasmas so can't compare. There is reflection from the glossy screen which isn't noticeable when the TV is lit up.

There's a review here that discusses gaming performance in some detail in sections 8 & 9.

Dana