Official Samsung LED UNXXC6300, UNXXC6400 & UNXXC6500 Owner's Thread - Page 135

Hi, cw1959,

Check the User Manual beginning at Page 14 for information on this. I believe you highlight the channel and press "Tools" on the remote.

Hope this helps.

OldAKGuy

On my TV, you go into the Smart Hub, select Channels then edit to remove the ones you don't want to appear.

You are the man! That worked like a charm for me.......unnecessary channels are gone!

Hi, cw1959,

Glad I could help ...

Enjoy your t.v.!

OldAKGuy

This may have been answered at some point in this thread, but if someone could help me out that would be great...

I watch movies a lot on my UN40C6300SF and with certain MKV files that I play through my external, the movie gets cut off. I am not sure if it is at an exact time or what, but I just know that certain movies get the end of the movie cut off. Any one know why this is or if there is a fix?

Meh. I'm still alive. My grandparents got the D6003 55" "Black Friday" Samsung TV and while the panel is good (has some clouding but can't really avoid that completely until Samsung finally gets their engineering to do something about it), there is an issue that I wonder if anybody else has seen here.

You see, my grandparents still use VCRs. Not one or two, but FIVE of them. Four are recording shows daily and the fifth is connected to the HDTV in the living room. The problem comes when playing tapes. What will happen (and I think would likely happen on my 2010 model as well) is that during playback the picture will lose color every once in a while (like an s-video signal would when one of its pins is broken) but the color will usually come back. The bigger issue is the picture "slipping". That is, the picture will dip (move) about 1/3rd of the way down the screen to where there is a black bar at the top and the bottom third of the picture is missing until it re-syncs. The VCR is connected via the coaxial antenna port, due to my grandparents needing simplicity (ease of use) and the DVD player they have taking the only other analog input (component video).

It almost seems like the sets made today are using an overarching anti-piracy mechanism that has major trouble keeping a signal lock on user-recorded VHS signals. I've tried to get them to switch to DVRs but they literally have almost 100 tapes full (6-8 hours of programming on each) and are so far behind that they'll be needed the VCR to watch those for the next year at least. That and after having issues with the similarly named (but obviously different to those that are tech savvy) DVD-R units, they're extremely leary of even touching a DVR, not realizing that DVRs are basically their STB with a hard drive inside to record the shows. They're also not keen on the $10/mo. more it'd cost to move up from SD non-DVR to HD-DVR for each of the five DirecTV boxes they have in the house, plus the hassle of setting up (and re-setting up should the power fail) the network feature that allows multiroom DVR streaming to a master DVR in the living room. I know how to do this, and even how to make it easy for them but they're old and old dogs have hard times learning new tricks as it were.

So I ask here if anybody still uses a VCR and has those issues, and if so, what workarounds have you found for them? I can't test myself because one thing I do know is that when connecting the TV via HDMI as I do through a receiver and the video source is analog, FF/REW can't be viewed onscreen at all due to sync loss. It's basically boiling down to new tech fighting against old tech and giving the user a miserable time.

FWIW the only reason I'm asking in this thread is because this issue will apply to either of our TVs when watching VCR recordings. and I want to find a solution.

Edit: Looks like it's gotten to the point the TV can't even lock onto the VCR's signal anymore. This is ridiculous. The antenna input (coaxial) has analog capability, receives the analog signal from our STB flawlessly, but the VCR is causing a sync loss. Now I have to email Samsung...ugh. My good eye for somebody at Samsung that could speak English well enough to give me a good response.

Edit #2: Looks like it only happens with home-recorded tapes. My ST: First Contact VHS tape (that I just now opened *roofles!*) works great with no skipping or picture slippage. But the tapes recorded on my grandparents' multitude of VCRs (a mixture of Zenith and Panasonic) are the ones with issues. I'll find out tomorrow if a newly recorded tape (a 10 year old Scotch brand VCR tape) records a good signal. If so, then that means that the heads on the VCRs needed to be cleaned, which I did four days ago (making all the tapes we're trying to watch right now recorded before the head cleaning).

I. HATE. VCRS.

I picked up a UN46C6400 really cheap, and I need some help trying to figure out what the problem is with it. Is this the correct board to post this on?

wos0002, go ahead and post what issue you are having with it.

I was running a LN46D630 and walked into the local BB and found a RIDICULOUS deal on a brand new un55c6300sf, so i traded in based on reviews and price.

I am not completely disappointed, however I think that the let-downs may be fixable.

Firstly, and I've read a mixed bag of reviews on this, the most irritating thing is the motion blur. It is TERRIBLE, no matter if I have AMP on, off, custom, clear, or smooth, or even in Game Mode (which is off) I can see a trail of movement on anything fast. I've tried a few HDMI cables in hopes that it was the age/quality of the cables and even swapped in some higher end components to no avail. Regardless of the source, BD, STB, or X360 I have it and it is bad. I have tried the LED motion plus, but it really doesn't seem to much (maybe it's all in your head?)

However, there is a bit of love with this complaint, unlike the set it replaced, there is no stutter (mind blowing, I know) with AMP. But at this point, and I know this will come back to haunt me, but I'd almost rather have the stutter over the trailing, it is THAT bad.

The other complaint I have is a common one, the clouding is terrible. When switching between scenes, sources, etc. the clouding is so bad even my fiance who knows only how to flip channels was like, "is there something wrong with the TV". However, it never really affects my the PQ and even on dark scenes it doesn't show so I could live with it if someone asked me to.

My primary concern is that the clouding may be the entire cause or at least a part of the poor AMP quality. I mean if I am right, the clouding is the bleeding of light. The picture is displayed by the manipulation of said light. If an image is displayed over the bleeding of light and then quickly manipulated (such as movement), because there is light there from the bleeding, the image is going to take a longer time to actually go away because it is still displaying the image (almost like a burn in effect)

I could be completely wrong, but it made sense to me.

Anyway, I made a service request and I got a guy coming today. HOPEFULLY this is fixable. I'll update afterwards.

Nothing from the tech. He flipped it on clear made some picture adjustments and *poof* i couldn't really produce what I was seeing. I showed him how bad streaming was and he was said "he couldn't really see what I was talking about" he said to let me eyes get used to it and if after a month I still have a complaint to call them up and they'll take it in.

My first comment may be mute at this point because I ended up just buying a complete set of circuit boards for the TV off eBay. The problem with the TV was that when I turned it on all that would happen was the power supply relay would "click" on and off. I disconnected the main A/V board and forced the power supply to turn on, the LED lights turned on. At which point, I checked the power outputs from the power supply board and all fine (5V, 12V, 18V, and ground). After connecting th A/V board back to the power supply board, I forced the power supply to turn on but nothing happened not even the LEDs came on. I rechecked for all the correct DC power coming to the A/V board, which were all correct. I think the problem is in the A/V board. I should know something when the replacement boards come in. One last thing, what does the "tcon" board do? From what it looks like, it is the interface between the A/V and the screen itself. Let me know your guys thoughts.

is there any special Firmware hacks for this Tv? I have not seen any updates for a while.

I guess thats it then

About the only hack I'm interested in is one that gets rid of the LED auto-shutdown when the picture is at or near black level (a.k.a. the Auto Dimming or CE Dimming feature). The rest I like.

Well thanks for all the help everone gave me (NOT), but the replacement boards off ebay worked great. So now a have a UN46C6400 with only $250 investment.

Seeing as this thread deals mostly with minor hardware issues and internal menu settings, there really wasn't much one could expect in the way of help other than to tell you to get a replacement of either parts or the whole TV.

From the description I read from your previous post, your AV board either had blown capacitors or two or more pins on one or more chips was bridged, causing a short (open) circuit path where there should be no short and thus the power supply did exactly what it was supposed to do: shut down. PC PSUs work the exact same way. In fact, all switch mode PSUs do. You can have all correct voltages going to the AV board, but if the AV board causes a fault in the circuit return path to or from the PSU, the entire device will shut down or fail to operate properly.

Thankfully you have some knowledge of PCB replacement/installation and testing and were able to rectify the situation. But that sort of problem isn't really feasible to solve on a forum, especially without pictures of the affected PCBs.

Hey guys,

I just had a question about the panel lottery. I remember when I bought my Samsung TV a few years ago and found about this panel lottery it blew my mind.

Anyway, I'm helping out a friend who's looking to buy an UN46C6500 or UN55C6500 TV. Now I've done a bit of reading in this thread and it appears there still is this panel lottery going on.

There also seems to be a different type of Panel. The H panel.

Could you guys list the different types (I know of SQ01, AA02, CN01 for example, and SQ being the best).

Has this changed? Are there newer panel types?

Also is the Penel serial number listed still separately from the TV serial number or is it now included in the TV serial number?

Thanks a lot. I appreciate your help.

Squishy Tia, thanks. I looked over all the caps that I could see but none were domed. I think you are right about the short or fault in a circuit on the AV board. As for the replacement TV comment, I bought this UN46C6400 because I was hopeing that it would be my replacement TV. I was watching TV on 32" 1080P 60 Hz VIZIO. My now WORKING Samsung looks great and beats the picture on my VIZIO ten times over. I still need to do some tweeking on the picture.

Can anyone recommend a web site I could use to help with adjustment? What I want is some sort of program / DVD / images take I can put in the TV screen and a little bit of information on knowing how it should look.

Look at the original post for this thread. It links to several settings tweaks we've done, including the OP's own setup using bias lighting. It's worth a look.

Do this set have CMS control where you can not only control Gamut points but LCH (lightness, Color, Hue)

The only "gamut" control you have is by selecting Native or Auto for the color space setting. Select Native unless you have a very specific type of computer application designed to work outside the sRGB environment. Otherwise your colors will be oversaturated (sort of like Sharp's Quattron does for the yellows on its default settings).

You can control each primary color's intensity via the slider control, as well as either single or ten point white balancing, depending on the input mode and resolution (progressive scan/interlaced). There may be possible further calibration you can do via the service menu, but unless you have professional equipment and/or are a certified technician qualified by Samsung, avoid the SM or lose any warranty you have.

Thanks..I have been calibrating my tvs for a long time - via Calman and I have dtp094, i1pro and id2 as well and ColorHcfr probe..Im pretty confident as far as calibrating sets. Is there SM code for this?

This may have been answered at some point in this thread, but if someone could help me out that would be great...

I watch movies a lot on my UN40C6300SF and with certain MKV files that I play through my external, the movie gets cut off. I am not sure if it is at an exact time or what, but I just know that certain movies get the end of the movie cut off. Any one know why this is or if there is a fix?

....looking at maybe picking up one of these. Any thoughts on what a decent price is for one nowadays?

I just got a Denon AVR-1912 and the audio lagging behind the picture is driving me INSANE

Previously I had a Sony speaker system connected to the AUDIO OUT jack and there was no delay

I now have my Denon AVR-1912 connected to HDMI 4 IN on my Samsung UN46C6400. Short cable length. Set at 60Hz. Multiple devices connected to the HDMI Ins on the AVR (AppleTV, Xbox, Bluray). Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hello from Guatemala Latin America.

I just wanted to add a small review of a 6400 series.

I wanted so bad a 3d TV and I bought the Sony EX720 tv.
The store gave me 2 bundles with 4 blu rays in total. One of those was MotorStorm 3d.
Let me tell you that after installing the TV, the looks, the menu, the 2D were incredible, I jumped to try in Motorstorm in 3D and I just played for 5 minutes and I hated 3D.
After reading a lot of comments here in AVS I learned about crosstalk. "A word that was completely new to me and was screwing my 3D experience."
Long story extra short, I returned next day the Tv. The boys at the store didn’t know what crosstalk was so we tested another sonys and the same thing!
Shame sony to sell some products with lack of “quality”.

I tested the LG with passive glasses and the Samsung.
Lg had very good 3d, but reviews around the net said that it had very bad black levels so I ended up with the Samsung

- Latin America series: UN40D6450
- Panel CN01
- Let me tell you that after messing around with the PQ settings, the 3D of this TV is the best I have ever seen!!!
- Its is 95% superior than the sony in 3D.
- Inside the box where included 2 glasses, those are superior quality than the Sonys. Rechargable, super lightweight, and one size fits all!
- Design, is very pretty!
- SmartHub is very good, I think it can be improve but it’s nice.
How can be improved? I thought that when you were connected to the internet, information like weather reports where displayed as “pop up” or the news, or FB, etc… And no, you cant be watching tv and running programs in the background. I think we would see this in the future.
- 2D to 3D conversion works very nice in HD files or HD cable.
- It reads my WD 1TB only in the usb connected.

So far so good!
Hope it helps someone.

sorry, this problem is still driving me insane. please help

Since they are delayed, I'd check all the settings on the Denon. Since I don't know that receiver, I can't be much more specific, but there must be setting for straight pass through.

Since audio is coming after the picture, the guys in the Denon forum said the problem is with the Samsung somehow delaying everything. They werent sure how to fix the problem

Netflix subtitle.

Some of my foreign Netflix movie is not showing subtitle on my UN55C6400 but they are showing up fine on the UN55D6050. There is no option to select audio and subtitle on the netflix app in the UN55C6400. Neither Samsung or Netflix has updated their app on this TV for a while now.

Hi all, I own a 40C6300 for a couple years now and I'm wondering if it is possible to swap the mainboard for a 6400 or 6500 series in order to get internetTv and apps. Thank you.