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Official Panasonic TC-PxxVT20/25 Owners Thread NO PRICE TALK!! - Page 345

post #10321 of 10643
Went and saw Transformers last night and was amazed with the action sequences. There was no judder or choppy pans. Would an external video processor help my vt25 look like that? Thanks
post #10322 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by kben1993 View Post

Went and saw Transformers last night and was amazed with the action sequences. There was no judder or choppy pans. Would an external video processor help my vt25 look like that? Thanks

What did you use to watch the movie at home?
BluRay? Cable?
post #10323 of 10643
Blu ray output to 24p
post #10324 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by kben1993 View Post

Blu ray output to 24p

to be honest, there is
some judder on the VT25.
Some use 96hrtz to lesson it.
I haven't seen the movie you spoke of but
have seen it on other
movies.

I don't believe a external will help.
If I remember what I read correctly.
post #10325 of 10643
I just wonder if an external video processor would help
post #10326 of 10643
Bought "Sucker Punch" on Blu Ray, used my PS3 set to 24p, and its a very dark movie, several deep dark scenes, as well as fast moving action scenes.. It was beyond perfect. Beyond. My tv is in the hour range people are stating light fluctuations...but Im not seeing them, nor "judder". I must not know what to look for. 58vt25
post #10327 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron-Monk View Post

Bought "Sucker Punch" on Blu Ray, used my PS3 set to 24p, and its a very dark movie, several deep dark scenes, as well as fast moving action scenes.. It was beyond perfect. Beyond. My tv is in the hour range people are stating light fluctuations...but Im not seeing them, nor "judder". I must not know what to look for. 58vt25

I have the same TV.
how many hours do you have and what is the number you mentioned?

I saw judder 1 time,
movie was Machete.
I saw a black level change 1 time.
Harry potter.

I have 620hours.
When I say 1 time, I mean one time.

I have read most of the reviews and opinions about judder and Black float.
It makes me nervous.
My set is Nov 10' build.
post #10328 of 10643
I have three more weeks to decide if I want to keep my BB Magnolia floor model 54VT25. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I found out it has over 4000 hours on it! Over the past week of critical watching, I have noticed two fairly small issues.

1 - Judder. This shows up occasionally during a pan and, most notably in the rare up/down type of pan. I was looking at other showroom displays today and noticed the same thing regardless panel type so I'm not sure this is such a big deal and it's only rarely that I notice it.

2 - Flicker. This in my opinion is worse and, from what I have read and seen, it is common on most Plasmas to some extent - just like CRT's I guess. It is most easily seen with a static screen of solid color and if the color is lighter (white is the worst), very easy to notice - for instance, the white/ gray NETFLIX cue shows it. If you were to look at the static screen out the corner of your eye, it's hard to miss. I have seen it when watching a few commercials with lots of white but I can't remember ever seeing it during an actual movie or TV show. An LCD screen is immune to this issue and I was surprised to see it on the VT25. If I were to return the display, it would be for this reason.

Even with the above issues though, the quality of this display is pretty remarkable. Most of the LED's I have looked at look very flat and lifeless. There is something three dimensional and almost liquid about this Panasonic Plasma display obviously lacking in all but a few of the very high end LED displays. For instance, looking at displays today, only a Samsung 8000 series Plasma and one of the newer, local dimming Sony LED's caught my eye. The Samsung showed obvious image retention that quickly went away, which I have not seen to anywhere near that degree on the VT25 but I was impressed by the newest Sony...of course it costs twice what I paid for my VT25.
post #10329 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatliner View Post

I have three more weeks to decide if I want to keep my BB Magnolia floor model 54VT25. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I found out it has over 4000 hours on it! Over the past week of critical watching, I have noticed two fairly small issues.

1 - Judder. This shows up occasionally during a pan and, most notably in the rare up/down type of pan. I was looking at other showroom displays today and noticed the same thing regardless panel type so I'm not sure this is such a big deal and it's only rarely that I notice it.

2 - Flicker. This in my opinion is worse and, from what I have read and seen, it is common on most Plasmas to some extent - just like CRT's I guess. It is most easily seen with a static screen of solid color and if the color is lighter (white is the worst), very easy to notice - for instance, the white/ gray NETFLIX cue shows it. If you were to look at the static screen out the corner of your eye, it's hard to miss. I have seen it when watching a few commercials with lots of white but I can't remember ever seeing it during an actual movie or TV show. An LCD screen is immune to this issue and I was surprised to see it on the VT25. If I were to return the display, it would be for this reason.

Even with the above issues though, the quality of this display is pretty remarkable. Most of the LED's I have looked at look very flat and lifeless. There is something three dimensional and almost liquid about this Panasonic Plasma display obviously lacking in all but a few of the very high end LED displays. For instance, looking at displays today, only a Samsung 8000 series Plasma and one of the newer, local dimming Sony LED's caught my eye. The Samsung showed obvious image retention that quickly went away, which I have not seen to anywhere near that degree on the VT25 but I was impressed by the newest Sony...of course it costs twice what I paid for my VT25.

Although this tv is not perferct, it's pretty damn good. I don't regret giving up my 50ps60 for one second. The vt25 is 10 times better in my opinion and the 3D is pretty cool too.
post #10330 of 10643
Hey all,

Been a VT25 owner for a while now and was always on the fence about if calibration would be worth it, but decided to give it a go - I was 90% happy with this TV from the start, but never could get certain things to look as good as I thought they should to me.

I got a 65VT25 last October, and my first impression was the picture had a sort of...greenish tint to it (especially skin tones). I applied D-Nice's offsets, and that made a world of difference and gave me a picture I've been fairly happy with after calibrating with first the Avia DVD, and more recently Disney's World of Wonder (WOW). Both of those did a pretty decent job, but I still felt certain things seemed a bit...dark (especially an old PS2 I have hooked up - yes; I play PS2 games still, since I always wanted to play the Kingdom Hearts series and never did. =oP), and try as I might I couldn't seem to get things to look quite the way I thought they should. There was nothing obvious - I could see all the detail, but it just didn't look quite right to me - sometimes things appeared a little dark, while other things seemed beautiful, and adjustments never seemed to totally fix that.

So I finally decided to go ahead and get a professional calibration done, and boy am I glad I did! I went with ChadB (HDTVbyChadB.com), and he did an incredible job!

He was very friendly, didn't mind questions at all, was very professional, and most of all took the time to do it right and didn't rush, explaining everything as he went (very interesting to a techie like me) and even providing all the before/after graphs and a list of all the changed settings (including service menu ones) in case I ever need to restore them. I couldn't have asked for more (and hope to get him back to do a sound calibration in the near future).

I honestly was a bit worried since I'd used the calibration discs, I wouldn't see much difference, but the change is quite extraordinary, and he definitely gets into a lot of settings and tests that a disc simply can't provide. The picture just has more pop all around, and scenes where I felt the picture was too dingy are no longer an issue - the PS2 looks much, much nicer as well - more along the lines of what I'd expect from a CRT, and things don't look as drab/washed out.

He calibrated the 3D as well using his equipment and my glasses, and that's seen dramatic improvements as well, especially in pop and accurate color.

My advice is, if you're considering a calibration but on the fence, you won't be disappointed in getting one, especially if you don't feel you're seeing everything the way it should look like I felt for a while. I know there are several highly respected calibrators on here who I'm sure you wouldn't go wrong with, but if you're in the area he services, I can't speak highly enough of ChadB.

Now, back to enjoying my TV. =oP
post #10331 of 10643
I am definitely worried about burn in, the ammo count for Black ops is very clear after I play for an hour or so and lasts for a few hours before it goes away watching normal content. My question is, if I play for an hour take a few hours watching normal content rinse an repeat for a few months, so say I played for 50 hours watched tv for 200 will that be the same wear on those pixels as 50 hours straight then watching 200 hours straight of regular tv? Would that age those pixels enough to cause burn in or no?

Those who play alot of cod, how are your sets fairing?
post #10332 of 10643
Congrats sgupta
I really didn't appreciate what others were talking about when "depth" was the topic of conversation. After having my 65VT25 also calibrated by ChadB I most certainly know what depth is ChadB made an amazing difference in what I thought was a pretty darn good picture.
post #10333 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by b_rad4 View Post

I am definitely worried about burn in, the ammo count for Black ops is very clear after I play for an hour or so and lasts for a few hours before it goes away watching normal content. My question is, if I play for an hour take a few hours watching normal content rinse an repeat for a few months, so say I played for 50 hours watched tv for 200 will that be the same wear on those pixels as 50 hours straight then watching 200 hours straight of regular tv? Would that age those pixels enough to cause burn in or no?

Those who play alot of cod, how are your sets fairing?

I've had my set for almost 3 months now. With about 3 hours of cod play a day. The first saw constant ir, but after lowering the brightness in cod, and alternating picture sizes on my set. Ir is no longer a worry. Hope that puts a lit of ppl mods to ease.
post #10334 of 10643
i have been noticing louder buzz this week. Not sure if it is because I was behind the tv adding new speakers that made me hear the buzz so now I always notice it or what.
Any tips on decreasing the buzzing? I hear it 8-10 feet away during bright scenes.
post #10335 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicguy980 View Post

I've had my set for almost 3 months now. With about 3 hours of cod play a day. The first saw constant ir, but after lowering the brightness in cod, and alternating picture sizes on my set. Ir is no longer a worry. Hope that puts a lit of ppl mods to ease.

What picture settings do you use for gaming? I use THX mode at the default settings and still get a tad bit of IR with some games. Its never permanent. I was wondering what settings you use.

Thanks.

Mike
post #10336 of 10643
Need some help...I have a 54VT25 and an Onkyo TX-NR708. Problem occurs when the tv goes into 3D mode: the Onkyo remote is completely inoperative. The receiver will not even respond to commands from my URC-R50 universal remote. As soon as the 3D mode is disabled everything reverts to normal. The signal being transmitted to glasses from the tv is interfering with Onkyo remote.
Any suggestions for a workaround?
post #10337 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJArciola, III View Post

Need some help...I have a 54VT25 and an Onkyo TX-NR708. Problem occurs when the tv goes into 3D mode: the Onkyo remote is completely inoperative. The receiver will not even respond to commands from my URC-R50 universal remote. As soon as the 3D mode is disabled everything reverts to normal. The signal being transmitted to glasses from the tv is interfering with Onkyo remote.
Any suggestions for a workaround?

Compatible problem with Onky0 and Panny 3D TV's. I contacted Panasonic and they stated the 3D signal from the Panny interferes with the Onkyo remote sensor. They sent me out a filter that I placed over the Onkyo Remote sensor but it did't work? I just live with it. I have to place my body infront of the sensor to block out Panny 3D signal and seems to work, a bit of a pain.

Hurk
post #10338 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurk View Post

Compatible problem with Onky0 and Panny 3D TV's. I contacted Panasonic and they stated the 3D signal from the Panny interferes with the Onkyo remote sensor. They sent me out a filter that I placed over the Onkyo Remote sensor but it did't work? I just live with it. I have to place my body infront of the sensor to block out Panny 3D signal and seems to work, a bit of a pain.

Hurk

You place your body in front of the sensor on the remote or the Panny to block the signal?
post #10339 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJArciola, III View Post
Need some help...I have a 54VT25 and an Onkyo TX-NR708. Problem occurs when the tv goes into 3D mode: the Onkyo remote is completely inoperative. The receiver will not even respond to commands from my URC-R50 universal remote. As soon as the 3D mode is disabled everything reverts to normal. The signal being transmitted to glasses from the tv is interfering with Onkyo remote.
Any suggestions for a workaround?
The IR signals coming from the TV's front bezel are reaching the Onkyo AVR's front panel IR sensor. Figure out how to stop that. Often it will get reflected off some other surface and bounce back.
post #10340 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post
The IR signals coming from the TV's front bezel are reaching the Onkyo AVR's front panel IR sensor. Figure out how to stop that. Often it will get reflected off some other surface and bounce back.
that's exactly the theory I was working on. Opposite the tv and receiver is a glass-framed 16x 20 photo on the wall. I removed it, no positive results. I'll have to keep on looking for things that could be boucing the signal to the Onkyo.
post #10341 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJArciola, III View Post
that's exactly the theory I was working on. Opposite the tv and receiver is a glass-framed 16x 20 photo on the wall. I removed it, no positive results. I'll have to keep on looking for things that could be boucing the signal to the Onkyo.
A white wall is all that's needed. Also can be your 3D glasses or something equally as small.

There are 2 sets of 3 IR emitters on the Panny. Each set is about 1/2 way between the power LED and the outer edge of the bottom bezel. Take some black tape and cover one set at a time and see if you can isolate one or the other as the source. If you're sitting within 10ft of the TV, both sets are probably not needed. Moving the AVR, turning it or the like, as little as an inch may also help.
post #10342 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

A white wall is all that's needed. Also can be your 3D glasses or something equally as small.

There are 2 sets of 3 IR emitters on the Panny. Each set is about 1/2 way between the power LED and the outer edge of the bottom bezel. Take some black tape and cover one set at a time and see if you can isolate one or the other as the source. If you're sitting within 10ft of the TV, both sets are probably not needed. Moving the AVR, turning it or the like, as little as an inch may also help.

I tried the black tape over one and partially over another, but it didn't do much good. Of course, blocking both worked fine, but glasses won't work (Ha!) I've come up with a partial solution, but not my favorite. The receiver is on the bottom shelf of three-shelved separate unit. Plasma is wall-mounted. I pushed the receiver back so its sensor is not up front and shielded somewhat by the second shelf and the sides. After the menu comes on and 3D mode is engaged, if I bring the remote close to the receiver it locks onto the ir signal coming from the receiver and I can move anywhere in the room using the remote...I can even use the universal remote. The remote signal is not disturbed by the 3D signal from the tv. But if I try to start it from 9 ft away, no dice. I can't understand why it works once it "locks" on.
post #10343 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJArciola, III View Post

I tried the black tape over one and partially over another, but it didn't do much good. Of course, blocking both worked fine, but glasses won't work (Ha!) I've come up with a partial solution, but not my favorite. The receiver is on the bottom shelf of three-shelved separate unit. Plasma is wall-mounted. I pushed the receiver back so its sensor is not up front and shielded somewhat by the second shelf and the sides. After the menu comes on and 3D mode is engaged, if I bring the remote close to the receiver it locks onto the ir signal coming from the receiver and I can move anywhere in the room using the remote...I can even use the universal remote. The remote signal is not disturbed by the 3D signal from the tv. But if I try to start it from 9 ft away, no dice. I can't understand why it works once it "locks" on.

Most IR remote systems use a "multi-path rejection" system that is used to eliminate multiple signals arriving at the sensor at different times. The TV's IR emissions likely trigger this rejection system, confuse it, even cause it to stop responding to ANY commands. How this system works is dependent on it's programming, which varies. Weirdness is common.
post #10344 of 10643
So have all of you guys applied the firmware3.5 ?

Did you also do all of the setting changes for the James Cameron 3d picture ?
(aka the instructs that came with the firmware)

Do people know what the 3.5 firmware fixed ?
post #10345 of 10643
Well, I just returned my 54VT25 which I had purchased as a display model. This was my first Plasma so some of the issues I experienced (no solid full screen white, occasional flicker out the corner of my eye noticeable with bright images, high power usage) are due to the technology and were minor enough that I could live with. That said, I think there are a few more major issues that are due to this particular model and, taken as a whole, I could not see myself living with in the long term. The worst issue for me - and I'm probably more sensitive to this as I'm a photographer - was a very subtle green tinge to neutral shadowy areas of flesh tones. I tried everything to get rid of this including the service menu offsets AND using CalMan 4 with a meter to calibrate the monitor. I even spent quite a bit of time to figure out how to use the software with the serial port to try the ISF auto calibrate features of the software. By the way, professional calibrators have nothing to fear with this auto calibrate feature as it only provides a 2 point calibration and, in my experience, is not very accurate. Anyway, nothing I did removed the subtle green tinge. I really believe this tinge is a result of the anti-reflective filters used on the Panasonics but that's just a guess. Also note that this tinge was mentioned in a few reviews so it's not just me or my specific display.

The second thing which I became more and more aware of with the VT25 is judder. No matter the setting, there seems to be a problem with the VT25. It does not show up all the time but when it does, it's very noticeable.
post #10346 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunnel View Post

What picture settings do you use for gaming? I use THX mode at the default settings and still get a tad bit of IR with some games. Its never permanent. I was wondering what settings you use.

Thanks.

Mike

I will get those settings for you, soon as get home.
post #10347 of 10643
Are the Panasonic 2nd generation 3D glasses compatible with the VT25?
post #10348 of 10643
Yes they are compatible I have some.
post #10349 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by X2Dope View Post

Yes they are compatible I have some.

Are you referring to 2011 glasses and do you have a link to info on them?
post #10350 of 10643
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJArciola, III View Post

Are you referring to 2011 glasses and do you have a link to info on them?

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-TY-E...0474238&sr=8-6
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