Official Panasonic TC-PxxVT20/25 Owners Thread NO PRICE TALK!! - Page 285

One of my biggest complaints with this TV. I can't seem to get an answer for it. I notice the washed out whites everywhere, not just gaming. It's not really a white, it's more like a very light gray for most supposed whites. For example, I fired up Toy Story 3 and when the Pixar logo came up that's all white with Pixar logo in the middle, for some reason, I happened to hit the setup menu on this logo. When doing so, the Pixar logo with white background was very bright and brilliant like I was expecting. I paused it there and sure enough, when you exit the setup menu, the full white, brilliant background became very dull and washed out. Doesn't seem right. I have tried every mode possible and can't find a solution.

I am probably way off here, but when thinking about it and related to buzzing, it somehow, somewhere seems that Panasonic tried to limit the amount of brightness on the entire display, most likely to prevent burn-in issues. For me, the brighter a picture is, the louder our TV buzzes. I can't imagine what a full white and very bright background would make our TV sound like. It's probably not technically related, but I do find it very odd that this so-called TV of the year can't produce louder white backgrounds.

You know what Viper, I am kind of in the same boat. Something just seems off to me. It's probably more mental than anything, as I find myself constantly hitting my setup button when gaming, watching TV or a Bluray movie. I know it will wear off eventually, but I do have to admit, something seems off with the color and/or tint on all of our devices. No issues with black levels or strange pixels, just buzzing and washed out whites. We have until the the 5th of January to return it and I am debating. I really don't want to get an LED TV and have to deal with live action look. But then again, as I have said before, there's just no perfect TV out there, at least not that I have seen.

Sounds like the one thing you haven't tried is calibration. The whites are there all the way up to 255 and with proper grayscale they are as white as snow.

It's probably not a bad idea at this point. Seems a little strange that out of the box, white's need to be massaged when every other TV I have seen demoed displays the whites normally.

Hello:
Just received my plasma yesterday and got it set up. I am currently only using a Roku box and streaming off of internet. This is hooked up directly to tv using hdmi cable.
This is my first plasma, but I have had lcds with this issue in the past. I'm noticing straight vertical lines running on right side of display running from top to bottom. This is especially apparent on the Netflix interface gray that you scroll thru to pick selections. It is less apparent on moving scenes, but still seems to be visible at certain times, when camera pans quickly from left to right. These are not due to image retention, because they are actually spaced within the letterbox or 4:3 format size, and I have been running everything in zoom mode.
It seems to be a banding that is the result of some sections of the panel being brighter or more illuminated than others. The lines are vertically straight, but are not evenly spaced out. The most prominent is the one closest to the right side panel, which is just a tiny bit darker than the brightness to the left of it. This gives a slightly brownish or off white tint. The only thing I can figure is that it is some kind of interference. But, from what I have no idea, considering that I don't have any other electronics close to the tv. I have been watching everything in zoom using DNice's final settings. The effect can also be seen if format is changed to 4:3 and gray bars are inserted on the sides. Then, the gray bars also show the lighting variations. So they are staying in one place and not moving with the broadcast display. It's sort of like the ghosting people here are seeing when viewing text (I've seen this too) except it is vertical, runs down the length of screen and not horizontal.
I am also noticing quite a bit of ghosting, particularly during the Lost episodes streaming from Netflix. It seems that head movements also effect the blurred backgrounds and a hazy movement can be seen in them as well.
I am going to use a better grade hdmi to see if that makes a difference. I'll also try another way to hook it up using different cables. I also intend to hook up my dvd player. I may also take the tv off of the line conditioner, to see if it may be some interference there. I've just never heard of such a thing in a plasma.

Just went up to turn on my tv, and the hdmi didn't connect to the roku. As a result, all I got was a green screen. When I looked at the green screen, I could see the vertical inconsistencies in brightness clear across the panel. The one on the far right that I initially noticed is still the darkest. Only thing I can figure is that this must be normal and is something that plasmas share with their lcd cousins. I'm still going to try a different hdmi cable, because I'm obviously having some kind of issue.
Thanks

I found the operable range was around 17 feet in my living room using the 1st gen Panny glasses. I had to move a couch about 6 inches forward to put the glasses in range.

Have you tried playing solid colored slides using an SD card? That should make it easy to spot any flaws in the panel. The slides are referenced in many places, including in the first post of this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1232441

Moved my couch to 10' and glasses work perfect. Actually is a better viewing distance for my 65VT25 anyway.

Hurk

Try moving the sofa so your eyes are about 7 1/2' from the screen. That puts you within the THX recommended FOV for 3D displays.

10 feet is still WAY TOO FAR from a TV of the size of these models. I find 8 feet from a 73" screen is about right. That means 6 feet or even less for a TV in the 50"-55" range.

It was hard enough to get people past the past for HDTV... now we have 3D and there's even MORE reason to sit close. We are so used to having the TV on one side of the room and the couch on the other side of the room that we tend to keep doing that over and over and over again. The point of 50" and larger displays isn't to be able to hang them on a wall and sit 12 feet or more from the TV... the point is to recreate the cinema experience at home. But to do that, you have to sit close enough for the TV to fill your field of vision.

That is a good idea. I changed hdmi cables and am now using a 1.4. That seems to clear up alot of the ghosting. But, the vertical lines/bars can still be seen, although much more subdued during daylight hours and much less prominent.
I'm honestly trying to find out if minor background lighting inconsistencies are normal and to be expected, or if it is something that will get worse later on? Right now, I'm not seeing it much during normal viewing unless I look for it. The most obvious is a vertical bar slightly darker than surrounding area. It is directly underneath the 3D logo on the right side of the panel and is about the same width as the logo. Like I said, it can be most readily seen when going thru Netflix menu selections or when viewing the hdmi green screen. There are other areas where lighting differences can be seen as well.
I'm really not looking forward to removing the pedestal and packing this thing up to return it. Especially if I'll just end up with another panel with the same issues. LCDs I have owned in the past have been susceptible to this because of the back lighting, but I thought plasma would remedy the problem. Guess I will fire an email off to Panasonic.
Thanks!

Without the ISFccc feature, is the VT20 less adjustable by a proferssional calibration? I'm trying to decide which model to pull the trigger on.

As of today, BB has a fairly great deal on the VT20, and Amazon shows even lower pricing on the VT25 although from a retailer I've never heard of in my life...

Thanks.

That is my understanding. One of the calibrators or someone who actually has used these features could probably elaborate. The way I see it if you aren't going to get the display professionally calibrated or use the RS232 port for control, the added features of the VT25 won't make any difference to you. I'm sure this has been discussed at some point here so maybe you could dig up some old threads that discuss it in a more detail.

Here's a few more features that the VT25 has over the VT20.

1. RS232C for PC, Crestron, AMX, Control 4, Savant and Universal Remote Control's Master System Controller MSC400 remote control system and PC control

2. ISFccc Day/Night (additional day and night ISF professionally calibrated modes)

3. Studio Ref Mode (Additional viewing mode)

4. Pro Setting (Another dedicated video mode)

5. Bezel color is different (brushed silver on VT20, dark bronze on VT25)


I believe the VT20 was a Best Buy exclusive model, not sure if that's still the case or not. Of course just to confuse you the VT20 is sold outside the US, and not sure the VT25 is. Or at least I've not seen it referenced by others outside the US yet.


TC-P50VT20: http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-e...C-P50VT20.T#ts

TC-P50VT25: http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-e...216#tabsection

PLEASE HELP!

I just unpacked my 50VT25 today and NONE of the HDMI ports work. Fresh out of the box. Component is fine, Ethernet works well, just the stupid HDMI. Am i missing something really obvious or do i need to go exchange my brand new TV?

It isn't my cables nit my sources, i literally unplugged my old Samsung DLP and plugged in my new VT25. The sources were working fine a few hours before i set up the VT25.

Any guidance would be great.

Try cycling power on all the source equipment/receivers.

Try connecting to the TV from one of your components directly, if the HDMI signal currently is routed through a switch or receiver.

It just seems very odd that all the HDMI inputs could not work.

Have you read the manual?

Have you selected the proper inputs? (Use the "INPUT" button on the remote.)

I know it seems odd but vie done everything. Power cycled properly too. Panasonic told they'd send a technician out but I'm just gonna return it to Best Buy tomorrow since it will only be a day old. Oh well, sometimes you hit that 1%

I was for sure going to exchange my Sony 55HX800 this afternoon for a VT25, but got cold feet. I do like the Sony and my main reasons for an exchange are the viewing angles and eye strain from bright whites and non-fluid motion. There are no local stores that have the Panasonic on display so how will this set compare to the Sony I have now? What can I expect as far as picture quality (the Sony is very crisp). Will I be " blown away"?

I have the same issue, but with horizontal lines going across the screen. I only notice this during the green screen right before a trailer starts (the screen where it shows the rating of the film before the trailer). Not sure if this is an issue or not, but after some quick research, this seems normal on plasmas. I really do not notice it anywhere else during any kind of playback. Your issue seems different though since it deals with brightness.

I was in the same boat, considering plasma as a replacement of my lcd and not sure I was taking the right decision.

Just got my VT25, replaced a Sony W3000 (2007 model) LCD. I'm still tweaking and learning on my new set but you're right about viewing angles, they're way better on a VT25 that's for sure. I think it's mostly a plasma vs lcd argument, not necessarily related to this particular model though.

I don't know the importance you're according to 3D but I think it's one big plus for the VT25 too compared to the HX800. 3D PQ is top-notch, plus you have the transmitter built-in in the TV and Panny gen2 glasses are great compared to Sonys.

You probably read all the positive reviews about 2D PQ of the VT25 too, but anyway like you said if the HX800 picture satisfies you right now, I guess it comes down to value, and I think the VT25 is the better deal.

???? At this range you'll see seperation between every pixels (!) and you'll see compression artifact and such, unless you're watching a good quality Blu-Ray. I think most plasma use dancing pixel (dithering) to properly render some colors and this work only when you are far enough to not see the dancing pixels individually which is very annoying.

Those distances will be fine when 4K will be here.

Thanks Matt
My "ghost lines" appear to be on right side, but not on the left side so much. I can also see it slightly whenever the 4:3 bars are used, but only on the right side. But, it doesn't seem to effect normal viewing. Just postings (e.g. silent films), menus etc. I'm a bit of a worrier and my main concern is that it will get progressively worse. Just my luck, as soon as the warranty expires, the thing will explode! That's just my luck with electronics.
I want to thank everyone that has taken the time to help others. You guys could be just sitting back and enjoying your sets, but you still cruise thru the forums to help those who are in distress. Who says chivalry is dead?

I exchanged my nx810(similar to HX800) for a VT25. I ultimately did the exchange because of clouding issues on 2 sets but the picture quality and viewing angle are better on the VT25. Despite all the settings I tried on the nx810 there were always some situations that produced artifacts. I've compared the two with sports/movies and the VT25 just renders everything better. The Sony Bravia sync and wireless built-in are nice features and are a plus over the VT25(I have a PS3 and CT350).

I have my modem/router far away from my television. I was just wondering if anyone is trying an internet dongle with their televisions, and which ones work consistently to make the televisions wireless without hassles.
Thanks!

Can you elaborate on the VT25 rendering everything better? What about the crisp images on the Sony LED, how does the Panasonic compare? Also, do you miss the bright whites of LED? This decision is killing me, I could just hang the Sony on the wall and be done, but I would just be thinking about what could have been with the Plasma.

I am using a Buffalo WLI-TX4-AG300N Ethernet Converter, and I am happy with it. Others here have also reported good results.

It's not a dongle of course, so it doesn't use USB. You run an ethernet cable to the converter, and it will connect (up to four units) to your wireless network. It works super for me, but I can't speak for its range: my router is on the floor above the converter, but it is located almost directly above it.

I noticed the blacks were better right away with the VT25. They are supposedly similar but maybe it is the effect of the sensitive off angle viewing with the nx810. Off angle on the nx810, I couldn't sit on either end of my couch without losing some PQ. I had to be directly in front of it. I noticed when there was a lot of detail within the blacks such as pin stripes, I would sometimes see distortion/flicker around the pin stripes. On the football fields if there was a shimmer from water or the artifical elements in the turf it would have a crystalized look. I spent a lot of time playing with the settings and I got it to a point that was acceptable but there were some situations where it would have rendered it strangely. I'm not saying the nx810 is bad and I would have kept it had it not been for the clouding. In regards to the whites, I didn't see a noticable difference.

Does the P50VT20 have upscaling to 1080p built in or do I need my receiver to provide that capability?

Will the BDT100 blue-ray player upscale my DVD's to 1080p?

Will AT&T Uverse's HD DVR upscale (I don't have their HD service yet)?

I'm buying the P50VT20 bundle today and I'm trying to decide what receiver to pair up to it. My room only works for 5.1 and I've been looking at the Denon AVR-591. It will convert analog video to HDMI output but does not do video upscaling to 1080p. I want to be able to play non-1080p sources (family Hi-8 and Mini-D video) and non-HD broadcast TV and upscale to 1080p for a decent picture.

Also, what would be the optimum wiring? I'm thinking HDMI between TV and Receiver and Blue-Ray and DVR to the Receiver via HDMI.