Official Panasonic TC-PxxVT20/25 Owners Thread NO PRICE TALK!! - Page 293

I just set up my new P50VT20 this weekend and I've got a question about picture resolution. I have AT&T Uverse and when I view the HD stations and press the "info" button on my VT20 remote it only shows 720P.
Does Uverse only put out 720P?
Does the VT20 have the option to upscale from 720P to 1080P?

Checkk out Monoprice mounts, they have great prices. Link at top of page.

Check your receiver to see if there's an option to change it to 1080i to let your receiver do the upscaling.

Thanks for the information. Taking a quick look, this is the only one I saw that would hold that TV.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

James

Just checking back in with a report. I ended up buying the 65" VT25. Got a nice 10% discount for it being an open-box return. It's fantastic for gaming so far, with no input delay that I can detect, even in the really twitchy fighting games. The set does buzz a little, and I can hear it 8' away with no sound going, but it's totally washed out during gameplay at a normal volume.

Looks good to me. I think this is the exact one I contemplated when I bought my 65V10. We went with a cabinet instead.

Green is considered the constant to which the others are adjusted to. In theory it could have been any of the 3, but green has been the standard since color was introduced in 1951.

Bingo

Does that mean that the VT20 does not do upscaling or does it just not do it well?

I also have the BDT1000 blu-ray player, does that do better upscaling and if so, is there a way for me to run the signal through it?

Do I need to look to a receiver to do upscaling? I was looking at either the Pioneer 1020-K or 1120-K (latter has better video processor but costs more).

Neither of these receivers have OSD for volume/source or presets for each source. Is there a recommended receiver in the same price range ($400-500 ) which has these features (I understand the OSD provided by Onkyo impairs picture quality)?

Cool.

I just have to laugh about this though. Once I told my wife I was receiving some constructive criticism about the layout, she asked what the points the folks were making were. I explained was posted and she agreed with them. So that started us going back out to look at the room layout and what could be done. So that is why I enjoy this forum, you can put up something and people question it and help (me) to see the error in my thinking.

James

Both Pioneer receivers have OSD. Its called KuroLink. Refer to your manual to setup.

I want to bring this back up,as im having the same problems.Anyone have a idea?

When Im watching Comcast On Demand 3d stuff and then I stop playback while still in 3d mode the screen goes to colorful static. Like regular black and white static but with color. Does that happen to anyone else? I have to switch inputs to get it back to normal.

Anyone here use the Denon AVR-591 with their tv? How does it handle 3D?

I have the AVR-591 with a 58VT25. I have only viewed Avatar (probably the best 3D source for now) and it looked really good. Two other observers both said that it looked better than what they saw in a movie theater.

I haven't had any issues with my setup. TC-P50VT20 with a DMP-BDT100 running to the AVR-591. Everything looks and sounds great.

The manual says that Kuro Link will use the Control with HDMI feature to perform the function but it does not state that OSD will occur. I've read at least one review (http://winstonsreviews.com/?p=330) that said it did not provide OSD for source/volume but I'd love it to be false.

Here is a question for you:

Have you actually tried it?

Had my 58VT25 calibrated Saturday by Craig Rounds. http://www.cir-engineering.com/
I can't say enough about the job he does. It looks amazing. This is the second HD set Craig has done for me. He did my old Mits 55857 back in 2006. I'm happy.

I've tried it with the VSX-1120 and it's not what it sounds like...
First of all, the Pioneer's volume readout cannot be displayed on the TV, which is what you’d expect with OSD. What Kuro Link and Viera Link allow you to do is use the TV's volume control to adjust the volume of the VSX-1120, so it's the TV's volume control you see on screen. The way it works is the audio is passed unchanged through the AVR to the TV where it's adjusted by the TV's volume control and is then sent back down the HDMI 1.4a compliant cable to the AVR for output. Sound convoluted - it is. I got it to function but it places too many restrictions on you to make it worthwhile and I quickly decided it wasn’t worth the hassle.
I will say that the VSX-1120 does a great job of upconverting video (much better than the P65VT25) and the audio is excellent for its price range. I’m very happy with the receiver, but if you must have OSD it’s best to look elsewhere.

Your very welcome!

Anyone else watch any of the BCS game in 3D? first experience with it for me, its kinda cool but glasses got annoying after a while. Didnt buy the tv (vt20) for the 3d, its just a bonus to me really, but overall not really that impressed with it.

Next time ill try to remember to watch with dnice suggested settings and see if that makes a difference.

He is one of the best.
He did my Mits 65813 RPCRT with the Lumagen HDQ

As much as I like monoprice, I would be wary of using their articulating mounts. I purchased two of them for some older 50" plasmas a couple years ago, very similar to the one you're picking it, and they sag horribly under the weight, and the plasma weight is well under the rated capacity. To compensate, I have to adjust the tilt back all the way to its limit so as to keep the plasma parallel with the wall. The tolerances in the spindles that hold the arms is bad, and there's just movement that happens, plus the thickness of the metal is questionably too thin and there's noticeable give in it, too.

For my main TV, I couldn't wall mount, so ceiling-mounted using a Peerless mount. The difference in materials and build quality is significant. The Peerless mounts are easily far more sturdy and stable and solid (and heavier).

Now I may still use a Monoprice mount for lighter weight displays, or for cases where I wouldn't want the articulating arms and just needing something hanging off a brace.

So maybe I won't spend $300-$400 to mount a $500-$1000 display and would pick a cheaper monoprice mount, but I sure as heck am not going to quibble with it for a $3600 display. And back in the day I bought it, it was for a $8100 display, so there was even less question.

BTW, Amazon carries the Peerless mounts you linked to, if you needed a quick and easy source (Amazon Prime eligible, too).

For most home theaters, the idea is to have the display mounted so that it's center is approximately at eye level. Looking up for long periods can cause physical problems. It's also common to have your center channel pointing at ear level in your best seating location. Many people put big center channel speakers on the floor and use a special speaker stand or wedges to point the speakers toward their ears.

I buy a lot of cables from Monoprice and I've recommended them for years. I do NOT buy articulating wall mounts from them. As far as I could determine, the one you linked to does not indicate how far it can be extended from the wall. The Peerless mount will extend 30", and comes from a company that has a good reputation for quality wall mounts.

If you and your wife can find another way to arrange your room, that would probably be best. Based on what I can see in your picture, I don't see how you can get good speaker placement with your current setup.

Guys,

Thanks again for the information concerning the mount. My thought is to go with the Peerless model at this time.

HT,

In speaking with my wife, right now the thought is we are go to take out that entertainment unit to the right of the TV (that huge one). Then place the wall mount on either the small little wall to the right of the TV in the picture or place it on the longer wall behind were the entertainment center used to be. It would still keep the TV at the same height (approximately) but I go not think I would want it even lower. It may not be the optimal height but most setups have a compromise somewhere. I could then also move my right channel speaker backwards towards the corner itself.

James

Its still an OSD. Its just translating db into the display's volumn format.

Then tell me how I can see it on my SC-27 and SC-05... both of which have the same KuroLink as the 1020 and 1120?

OK, I just ordered a PLA50-UNLP-GB from Amazon (also signed up for the Prime stuff). According to the Peerless website that model can hold a 65 inch TV so I should be all set with that. Thanks again folks.

James