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Lutron Maestro RF2 + Birdgog Dimmable LED Rope Light = Ruh Roh - Page 2

post #31 of 34
Just a note: Dating way back, I had an issue with a Lutron MALV-600 not recognizing a 300W toroidal transformer with dimming coil. Lutron suggested I install a 10W 1.5Kohm power resistor across the dimmer load (between switchleg and neutral). It didnt work (they ended up sending me a RA neutral dimmer, which did work) but I had bought a few so I kept them on hand. They can be ganged in parallel to get up to 50W of resistive load. They get hot so this must be considered (I usually install then closer to the load in a metal box away from any wire connections). I have used these for everything from dealing with an electronic dimmer that doesn't like it's load, to tricking a dimmer into seeing an electronic transformer it doesn't like. It does the same thing as a light bulb without worrying about it burning out. Just a trick. It recently saved an LED installation with a magnetic LED driver that the SPLV-600 dimmer didn't like. The single resistor made it work perfectly.
post #32 of 34
For any DIY'er who's head is spinning after reading this thread, fear not, you do not have to know any of the technical side of things to effectively control LED lights (of course it does help!)

1.) Find LED products they are advertised as dimmable. Try and use products with non integrated drivers. They tend to be of better quality, and drivers can be changed if they perform poorly.

2.) Contact the manufacturer for a recommended driver for dimming, and dimmer, or at least recommended dimming type.

5.) Read the fine print. Many dimmable drivers will have distance and wire gauge specs.

3.) Always use the neutral regardless of what the manufacturer says. High quality dimmers do make a difference. If you're using wall box dimmers use Lutron, hands down. The tech support alone is worth it.

4.) Test before installation. Uninstalling is not nearly as fun as installing, trust me.
post #33 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradKas View Post

1.) Find LED products they are advertised as dimmable. Try and use products with non integrated drivers. They tend to be of better quality, and drivers can be changed if they perform poorly.

3.) Always use the neutral regardless of what the manufacturer says. High quality dimmers do make a difference. If you're using wall box dimmers use Lutron, hands down.

I did, but they caused the LED on the dimmer (2-wire HW 6D) to flicker. I probably should have bought neutral dimmers, but the idea of not having to deal with a neutral when installing was appealing.
post #34 of 34
I have a question that I think goes along with your post of 1/28/12. I have about 6 of the MA-600's, (incandesent types), that are about 3 years old. I swapped out the lights on several of the switches with 8 W Phillips led's that Home depot carries hoping they would work. One of the switches has 10 downlights and the MA-600 seems to work fine. The other two switches each have two lights. They both work but with a problem. Given that they are 8 W bulbs the MA-600 only sees 16 W. What happens is the the bulbs go on and off ok when they are cold, but after they warm up for 20 or 30 minutes they don't go off properly. When you push the switch to turn the two bulbs off the green led on the switch blinks down to the bottom, the two lights get dimmer but instead of going off they get to the bottom and blink. I found that I can force them to go off by leaving them on a low setting until they cool down and then turn them off, or by unscrewing one of the bulbs when they are blinking and then screwing it back in. They then go off. What I was hoping was not to have to buy new switches. When I talked to the tech people at Lutron they of course say buy new switches.
Might there be a way to fool the MA-600 into thinking it sees more watts if that's what the problem is?
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