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The Official LG xxPK550 Owner's Discussion Thread [no price talk] - Page 51

post #1501 of 5201
5/7/10 at 4:58pm
so what you're saying here is to get a panasonic x_x
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post #1502 of 5201
5/7/10 at 5:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post

so what you're saying here is to get a panasonic x_x

no
cuz Panasonic is a terrible company that nobody should support
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post #1503 of 5201
5/7/10 at 5:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyInTheChair View Post

I'm pretty sure you'll just see the same thing on a new one

I was under the impression plasmas do this because they can't properly produce the color gray so any shades of gray have this effect


Just thinking over about this... and actually the "Dancing Green Pixels" would make sense. I've been trying to read up a lot on calibration and using a colorimeter and such, and I found that on plasmas "green" will affect brightness and the grayscale. This further makes sense in movie "Pleasantville" where the movie was in Black & White and the actors and whatnot would change over to color. What the special effects used was green paint, not gray, on the actors to show Black & White. It had to do with how green would show on the screen. I wonder if this is the same effect with plasmas then.
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post #1504 of 5201
5/7/10 at 5:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by magdielito View Post

looks like the c750 has a better input lag there many post that the lg plasma has slow input lag.to me i dont play games on a new tv thats like taking the life of the tv spending so many hours playing game on a new tv just use your old 32 crt tv to play games.


You would have to compare to a CRT. The images show the comparison between the plasma to the LCD. Per the pics, in Game Mode, there was no difference in lag, and ~2-1/2 frames in Cinema.
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post #1505 of 5201
5/7/10 at 6:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by keyoctave View Post

I have around 70 hours on my 50PK550 now. I decided to take out the eye-one display and do some initial adjustments. I used the cinema mode for these adjustments. I will wait till the set breaks in more before I do a full calibration of the grey scale and CMS in the expert mode. Settings were adjusted using a Sony BDP-S550 player and DVE HD basic BR calibration disc.

I have to say the grey scale in cinema mode was not to shabby. It was a little warm on the low end and a little cool on the high end but a few points in the midrange were right on 6500K. The RGB tracking shows blue being the most inaccurate followed by red, then green (green was actually right at 100% from 10 to 100 IRE). The contrast setting gave me 30 ftl light output. I find this comfortable in my viewing environment. You may want a brighter picture (measured a max of 49 ftl with contrast set at 100) but if you increase the contrast, you will need to adjust the brightness to maintain proper gamma. After adjustments, I now have an average gamma of 2.24. Remember that these setting are for my plasma. Yours may require different settings. At least it gives one a ball park figure to start with.

Energy Saving: Off
Picture Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 72
Brightneess: 55
Sharpness: 8
Color: 48
Tint: R12
Color temp: W30

Advanced Controls

Dynamic contrast: Off
Dynamic Color: Off
NR: Off
Gamma: High
Black Level: Low
Film Mode: Greyed out
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off

do you not find that the black level on low really crushes the blacks/shadows
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post #1506 of 5201
5/7/10 at 6:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by magdielito View Post

looks like the c750 has a better input lag there many post that the lg plasma has slow input lag.to me i dont play games on a new tv thats like taking the life of the tv spending so many hours playing game on a new tv just use your old 32 crt tv to play games, buy a cheap lcd tv , monitor or a crt to play games.

?
how do you figure that?

the c750 shows the same input lag in game mode and is ~40ms slower in cinema

Game mode disables stuff like automotion 240hz processing which leaves you with a very blurry picture when gaming though



also the 50pk550 is sucha cheap tv that I don't see why you would bother spending MORE money on another tv just to game on
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post #1507 of 5201
5/7/10 at 6:22pm
is video playback over USB that you guys were talkinga bout earlier only on the euro model or something? cuz I only have photo and audio playback
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post #1508 of 5201
5/7/10 at 7:35pm
the US models only the 750 and 950 support video

also the black level low/high option just tells the tv whether black should be 16 or 0. It just moves the brightness setting up or down
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post #1509 of 5201
5/7/10 at 7:41pm
guyinchair, those avatar pics what video settings/calibration are you currently under and what model 550 ?
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post #1510 of 5201
5/7/10 at 7:53pm
Okay, I got my Spears & Munsil BD disc earlier than the projected delivery date. I played around some last night, and did a follow-up again just a little while ago.
I'm going to set up Expert1 for daytime and Expert2 for night.

Here's what I have so far:

BD on PS3 -- SuperWhite: On

Energy Savings: Medium
Display Mode: Expert2

Contrast: 70
Brightness: 54
Horz-Sharp: 41
Vert-Sharp: 41
Color: 58
Tint: 0

under Expert Control:
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: Low
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off

White Balance: Medium
Method: 2pts

R-Con: -18
G-Con: -12
B-Con: -30
R-Brt: -3
G-Brt: -1
B-Brt: -2

I know some have said that W/B should be Warm, but looking at different patterns, it still looks a tad reddish to me. Medium looks more natural to me. I haven't touched the CMS yet, need to get a colorimeter for that. Hope to get one by the end of the month.
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post #1511 of 5201
5/7/10 at 8:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyInTheChair View Post

do you not find that the black level on low really crushes the blacks/shadows

It does. That's why the brightness is set higher. I tried it with the black level on high and ended up with my brightness set at 25 with the gamma still way off on the higher IRE values (setting the gamma in both the medium and high positions). The main thing is getting the average gamma tracking as close to 2.2 as possible across the IRE spectrum. That's where a meter and software allows one to see exactly what's going on. After more break-in time, I will set the grey scale properly (which adjusts the RGB tracking). This should allow me to track the gamma pretty much spot on.

I have just finished watching Avatar on BR. The shadow detail in great now. I also watched the end part of the movie UP where they escape out of the dirigible. I can now see all the fine shadow detail in the picture. The 550 is showing me it's a winner.
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post #1512 of 5201
5/7/10 at 8:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Encrypted Neuron View Post

Okay, I got my Spears & Munsil BD disc earlier than the projected delivery date. I played around some last night, and did a follow-up again just a little while ago.
I'm going to set up Expert1 for daytime and Expert2 for night.

Here's what I have so far:

BD on PS3 -- SuperWhite: On

Energy Savings: Medium
Display Mode: Expert2

Contrast: 70
Brightness: 54
Horz-Sharp: 41
Vert-Sharp: 41
Color: 58
Tint: 0

under Expert Control:
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: Low
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off

White Balance: Medium
Method: 2pts

R-Con: -18
G-Con: -12
B-Con: -30
R-Brt: -3
G-Brt: -1
B-Brt: -2

I know some have said that W/B should be Warm, but looking at different patterns, it still looks a tad reddish to me. Medium looks more natural to me. I haven't touched the CMS yet, need to get a colorimeter for that. Hope to get one by the end of the month.

When I tested the grey scale (warm white level setting), it was reddish at the lower IRE values (tracking around 6200k) and bluish at the higher IRE values (tracking around 6900K). The midrange was pretty good. Medium color temp setting showed a color temp around 7400K (which is higher then the 6500k target one tries to reach) giving a bluish picture. Use the warm setting. You need a color meter to adjust not only the CMS, but the grey scale as well. I see you have cut your greens. Leave them set to 0. They tracked almost perfect. On contrast, try adding some red and cut the blue. On brightness, cut some red and add just a small amount of blue. This will be on the warm temp setting. Hope this helps.
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post #1513 of 5201
5/7/10 at 9:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Encrypted Neuron View Post

You would have to compare to a CRT. The images show the comparison between the plasma to the LCD. Per the pics, in Game Mode, there was no difference in lag, and ~2-1/2 frames in Cinema.

oh okay sorry I was not paying attention which was on the left and righ.
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post #1514 of 5201
5/7/10 at 9:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyInTheChair View Post

?
how do you figure that?

the c750 shows the same input lag in game mode and is ~40ms slower in cinema

Game mode disables stuff like automotion 240hz processing which leaves you with a very blurry picture when gaming though



also the 50pk550 is sucha cheap tv that I don't see why you would bother spending MORE money on another tv just to game on

oh okay sorry I was not paying attention which was on the left and righ.
I thought you had the 60 ", which is what I have.
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post #1515 of 5201
5/7/10 at 9:32pm
Bought a 50pk550 tonight online. Can't wait!
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post #1516 of 5201
5/8/10 at 7:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by keyoctave View Post

When I tested the grey scale (warm white level setting), it was reddish at the lower IRE values (tracking around 6200k) and bluish at the higher IRE values (tracking around 6900K).


Thanx for the input... With the defaults and then using the picture wizard, I saw the same thing. The Blacks had a red tint to it, and the Whites had a bluish tint to them. Seeing the actual color temp is one more reason I want to get a colorimeter, plus I'm a geek at heart so I love doing that kind of stuff. The settings are just a work in progress. I'll try out some of changes you suggest and see how it affects it. I just bought a few more BDs, and watch "The Thing" last night (it's one of my favorites), and actually noticed for the first time that one guys had a nose ring. I've seen that movie around ten times and never noticed that. I'm lovin' BD and this TV.
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post #1517 of 5201
5/8/10 at 7:45am
Hi guys!

It seems this plasma is excelent with hd content!
What about sd image? Is it better than the actual samsungs?
This plasma doesnt have the brigthness problem that plagues the samsungs, rigth?

Guyinchair, those images are excelent!!
Could you share your settings?
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post #1518 of 5201
5/8/10 at 8:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crave View Post

Hi guys!

It seems this plasma is excelent with hd content!
What about sd image? Is it better than the actual samsungs?
This plasma doesnt have the brigthness problem that plagues the samsungs, rigth?


I can't compare to the Samsung's TVs, but IMO SD material looks pretty good on this set. However, out-of-box the SD material is only so-so, but after break-in SD material PQ has improved by a lot. Right now I still don't have HD programming (getting Dish HD soon) other than BD material, so I just have SD. BD material looks excellent on this set.
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post #1519 of 5201
5/8/10 at 9:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crave View Post

Hi guys!

It seems this plasma is excelent with hd content!
What about sd image? Is it better than the actual samsungs?
This plasma doesnt have the brigthness problem that plagues the samsungs, rigth?

Guyinchair, those images are excelent!!
Could you share your settings?

those pics are just using teh default cinema settings with the sharpness lowered from 50 to 25
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post #1520 of 5201
5/8/10 at 10:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by magdielito View Post

I have a question I thought that by tightening the screws on the board Was going to take the buzzing noise but no even that lg replace a board on that side and nothing so when lg tech left i start to check what is wrong but I discovered something. the bars that are vertically on the sides. on the right and left are the cause of the buzzing noise. I remove the bars and now no buzzing.i will try some tape or like those wheather strip i dont know but im 100% sure this is the problem with the buzzing on this tv.because now with out the bars is silent 0 buzzing,I put the bars back and start to buzz so keep the bars out till i get some idea there just 3 screws to remove it,so the buzzing is a design problem.


Thanks for this post, this is awesome. But how did you remove the metal bars? Even with the screws taken out I can't get mine loose. Are they glued or taped on the backside?

I think you've solved the buzzing problem though. The bars definitely seem to cause or affect it. On my set, the top 2 or 3 orange wire bands along the left side are touching the bars, which have an insufficiently thin felt-like tape material on them, and this is causing the interference. Pulling the bars further or closer to the wire bands softens/loudens the buzz.

Hopefully once I get mine off I can perform a similar fix.
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post #1521 of 5201
5/8/10 at 12:32pm
Quick update for anyone interested... Got the metal bars out (a bit of a PITA) and there was still some buzzing though not nearly as bad. I added 1/8th-inch rubberized weatherstripping as magdielito had done and that seems to be the easy fix. Not 100% silent in my case but quiet enough that I can stop stressing over it.
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post #1522 of 5201
5/8/10 at 3:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyInTheChair View Post

I also just got a 50pk550

running comparisons agatinst my 3d c750 right now to determine which I want to keep
one thing that concerns me though is the black levels

at first i thought they were really good but after a few hours I decided to load up a black image on both tvs and was shocked to see my c750 actually had deeper blacks

there was also considerably better shadow detail on the LCD


I'm going to chalk this up to the fact that 1 set of images I was displaying on PS3 and 1 on 360 though and hook up my 2nd PS3 tomorrow to do a fair comparison


I will say though Avatar looks PHENOMENAL on the set



has there been settings posted in this thread already?

I'd like to try and get rid of the green tinge to the picture

You can't judge overall black level performance by a black screen, you can only compare MLL's. CCFL and edge-lit LED LCD's do in fact have very low MLL's because they have and ABL (auto brightness limiter) so on a completely black screen, the backlight almost shuts off. A better real world comparison would be a checker-board pattern or during real viewing material. Dark movies like Watchmen is a good movie to compare black levels (and contrast/pop).

Btw, nice pics.

Regarding the Black Level setting, refer to my post here. The discussion carries on a bit afterwards.
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post #1523 of 5201
5/8/10 at 4:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

You can't judge overall black level performance by a black screen, you can only compare MLL's. CCFL and edge-lit LED LCD's do in fact have very low MLL's because they have and ABL (auto brightness limiter) so on a completely black screen, the backlight almost shuts off. A better real world comparison would be a checker-board pattern or during real viewing material. Dark movies like Watchmen is a good movie to compare black levels (and contrast/pop).

Btw, nice pics.

Regarding the Black Level setting, refer to my post here. The discussion carries on a bit afterwards.

That is absolutely true
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post #1524 of 5201
5/9/10 at 7:52am
Well I went through the Spears & Munsil disc again with some changes suggested by keyoctave, and there is an improvement on what I had. The blacks have a very slight blue tint, but I need to calibrate the CMS to fix the issue. Once I get my colorimeter I'll be able to do so. On some of the settings, just changing one point would shift the color or lose some detail. I'm real happy with it right now. Whites have a richness to them.

Thanx again key...

Here is the new update:

BD on PS3 -- SuperWhite: On

Energy Savings: Medium
Display Mode: Expert2

Contrast: 72
Brightness: 52
Horz-Sharp: 41
Vert-Sharp: 41
Color: 60
Tint: 0

under Expert Control:
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: Low
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off

White Balance: Warm
Method: 2pts

R-Con: -10
G-Con: 0
B-Con: -15

R-Brt: -1
G-Brt: 0
B-Brt: +1

If you guys try the settings out, let me know how it works out for you. I'll set up another one for daytime under Expert1.
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post #1525 of 5201
5/9/10 at 9:21am
Had my UK version 50PK590 for a few days now and loving it.

No dead or flashing pixels, and no buzzing unless my ear is within 30cm on a completely white screen.
Reflections are noticeable in daytime, but if I rotate the panel on its stand then I can lose any annoying reflections from a back window.

Just noticed on the back panel, there is an intermittent flashing green LED on the circuit board in the red circled area on pic below, and wondered if anyone knows what the flashing LED is for? I don't have any network attached.

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post #1526 of 5201
5/9/10 at 9:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by OXF30 View Post

Had my UK version 50PK590 for a few days now and loving it.

No dead or flashing pixels, and no buzzing unless my ear is within 30cm on a completely white screen.
Reflections are noticeable in daytime, but if I rotate the panel on its stand then I can lose any annoying reflections from a back window.

Just noticed on the back panel, there is an intermittent flashing green LED on the circuit board in the red circled area on pic below, and wondered if anyone knows what the flashing LED is for? I don't have any network attached

what you see in there is the board with the xd engine chip im not shure what the light is for but my tv have the same flashing led (60pk550) im not worry about that because i exchange the same tv and both have the same flashing led.
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post #1527 of 5201
5/9/10 at 11:13am
so I've been breaking my tv in with the dvd for the past 60 hours or so

do you suppose it's safe to watch a widescreen movie yet?

I know the IR is still pretty brutal at this point(not as bad as when it started) but would I run the risk of any problems?
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post #1528 of 5201
5/9/10 at 1:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyInTheChair View Post

so I've been breaking my tv in with the dvd for the past 60 hours or so

do you suppose it's safe to watch a widescreen movie yet?

I know the IR is still pretty brutal at this point(not as bad as when it started) but would I run the risk of any problems?

Use the Cinema Zoom 1 under 'aspect ratio'. You can zoom up a widescreen movie untill the black bars are gone. You only loose a little side info. This will keep it full screen.
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post #1529 of 5201
5/9/10 at 1:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyInTheChair View Post

so I've been breaking my tv in with the dvd for the past 60 hours or so

do you suppose it's safe to watch a widescreen movie yet?

I know the IR is still pretty brutal at this point(not as bad as when it started) but would I run the risk of any problems?

if you use HTPC, rip bluray to your comp, then use ffdshow raw video filter to put grey bars on top and bottom of the movie

I've been doing that for the first couple weeks. I'm about to quit though.
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post #1530 of 5201
5/9/10 at 6:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyInTheChair View Post

so I've been breaking my tv in with the dvd for the past 60 hours or so

do you suppose it's safe to watch a widescreen movie yet?

I know the IR is still pretty brutal at this point(not as bad as when it started) but would I run the risk of any problems?

I would personally wait until you have 100+ hours on it.
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