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The Official LG xxPK550 Owner's Discussion Thread [no price talk] - Page 167

post #4981 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

thanks for share your settings : ) really apreciate your help...

any ( Color Management System Settings )

D'oh! Sorry, forgot to put them on -

CMS settings in order from top to bottom;

0
0
-2
0
-1
0
-2
-1
-7
3
13
0
post #4982 of 5211
50pk550 (manufactured sept 2010) Floor model available at my local sears... Any way to check plasma hours used? Or is getting a floor model plasma just a bad idea?
post #4983 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by bgbop15 View Post

50pk550 (manufactured sept 2010) Floor model available at my local sears... Any way to check plasma hours used? Or is getting a floor model plasma just a bad idea?

Bad idea IMHO unless are saving a LOT of money. It has probably been on at least 10 hours a day..that is 300 a month. So it could have 1800 hours on it already. That would like 2 years of home use for me.
post #4984 of 5211
well i have a display model panasonic 54 s1 with 2,000 had it for $700 its been with me for 2 years now and the tv still looks like brand new , i dont think you have a problem buying the tv since the manufacture waranty will cover any damage and this tvs are to last 100,000 hours and you always can get a extended warranty if a tv is going to fail most of the time will fail months after the fist turn on.that tv is been like a year if the tv fail will fail all ready but the tv still working go ahead a save some money.
post #4985 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBuck View Post
Bad idea IMHO unless are saving a LOT of money. It has probably been on at least 10 hours a day..that is 300 a month. So it could have 1800 hours on it already. That would like 2 years of home use for me.
Yeah that's what I was thinking.. Anyway to check the hours used?
post #4986 of 5211
Hi guys. Weird request here.... Due to a separation I need to remove my 50PK550 from the wall mount where it currently is back to a stand mount. My problem is that I can't find the joining piece that mates the TV to the black base piece, which I have. I don't suppose anyone has wall mounted their unit and could part with that stand piece? I could paypal some funds for your time and shipping.

Thanks in advance!
post #4987 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimrod View Post

Brightness 52
5 = -13 -14 -12

IMO it's a better combination with Brightness at 54 and IRE5: +6 00 -2

In this way, there is not so much detail lost into PWM-Noise near black and you are not plagued with heavy green dancing pixels in greypoint "17".

I have the german PK350.

EDIT: Oh, wait a minute! You have gamma at Medium? Maybe that's the reason you have brightness at 52. What's about your P-NR? Is it in position "Off"?
post #4988 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalkonfuzion View Post

The DSE is a bit annoying now that I know it's there. I was watching Transformers 2 today and in some of those desert scenes I saw some pretty bad DSE and vertical banding (I'm assuming that's what I saw as it seems like the brightness uniformity is off). It seems like it's really just about all over the screen at different levels of intensity. These are cheap panels, but at $1300 that I paid I could easily toss in a few hundred more and get something I'm happier with as well.

The banding is caused by uneven calibration in most of the cases!

The best way to avoid banding (tinted or brightness banding like in sandstorms or skies or in mist, dust, smoke etc.):

1. Calibrate the gammalevels as flat as you possible can (in my case 2.38))

2. Look for hickups in the IRE5 to IRE10-range. Sometimes it can make a BIG difference, if you have -1 for green or 0 for green at IRE5

3. Don't go to high with the gamma at IRE5 - the LG simply can't handle this and would swallow much detail near black, if you go to dark. So, more than gamma 2.0 at IRE5 is not reasonable possible

4. Make sure you have the smallest DeltaEs possible at all 20 IRE-points! Just start with IRE100 (after you picked up the best combination for IRE5 and Brightness!), then 50, then 90, 80, 70, 60 50 again, remeasure 100, then 90, 80, 70, 60, 50, 40, 30, 20, 10. After that 95, 85, 75, 65, 55, 45, 35, 25, 15. Remeasure 100. Remeasure 50. Then 90, 80, 70, 60, 50, 40, 30, 20, 10. Remeasure 95. Remeasure 100. Then 85, 75, 65, 55, 45, 35, 25, 15.

After you've done recheck in a qucik runthrough 5, 10, 15, 20 etc. all the way up to 100 to make sure, that both your gamma and your R, G, Bs didn't shift!

5. Now comes the finetuning! Since you have only 1:1 control ofer 20 points in 5percent-slices, you must check all the other shades of grey:

a) Run your Blade Runner BD and jump to the Deckard/Rachael-scene, where she says "He wouldn't see me!". Deckard smashes the door and you hit "Pause" (or "Still" for the matter).

b) Look at the highlight at Deckards door. Is it smooth? Are there bandings? Play around with Red +1 and -1 from your actual position. Redo it with green. Keep the combination, which have the smallest amount of banding at Deckards door (some is baked into the transfer!).

c) Get your "The Mist"-BD and start the Black and White-version. Jump to a couple of scenes, where the mist/fog is in motion and some of the scenes with flashlights in it.

See a green band for example in the scene at minute 10 or so, where the guy trys to get in is car, before the mist could reach him? Search for the point in the 20point-ISF-calibration, whis is in control of this shade of "grey".

Try to use green -1. Does it work? Otherwise try Red +1 or Blue +3 for example.

Is the green gone, but it seems, that this shade of grey seperates itself too extreme from the neighbourshades? Then try Red +1 or the neighbourshade(s) -1.

d) Do this in so much scenes unless you are sure, that you have removed as much as bandings as possible - it needs a couple of hours! Attention for IRE13! It's possible, that it would appear very green in the drugstore. The only way, that you can tame it, is with Blue at the IRE10-point, so you have to give in there and need to find a compromise between the two.

e) Check with the 256greypattern of the AVS709-Disc. Does it appear smooth? Is there a green tinted shade near the middle of they greyscale? In this case, go for IRE45 and reduce green by one notch: perfect.

f) Start the DVE HD Basics Blu-ray Disc. Jump to the grey curtain scene and hit "pause". Is there a slightly too hefty brightness jump in the downhalf right next the greytinted curtain? If this is the case, go for IRE50 and give red one notch PLUS (i.e. instead of "10 14 0" you go for "11 14 0").


By now you should have reached your target and be able to watch your wonderful movies free of any banding. Enjoy!
post #4989 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimrod View Post
D'oh! Sorry, forgot to put them on -

CMS settings in order from top to bottom;

0
0
-2
0
-1
0
-2
-1
-7
3
13
0
What are your DeltaEs in the six colors? I only have a Spyder3 and so cannot make a colorcalibration by myself.
post #4990 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimrod View Post

Ok, here you go, I was going to redo and sort the bottom end brightness as it's all turned down but it's going to have to wait until next week, I doubt it would make a difference overall anyway but it's just me being a perfectionist

Expert 1/2, doesn't matter.

Aspect Ratio: Just Scan

Energy Saving: Off

Contrast: 75

Brightness: 52

H-Sharpness: 46

V-Sharpness: 36

Color: 50

Tint: G3

Advanced settings;

All untouched unless stated (be sure to reset if you've changed them as altering the black level one can put in a bug which shifts your black levels once it's been altered, even if changed back).

Color Temp: Medium

20-Point settings;

R G B
100= 4 6 -46
95 = 38 50 -33
90 = 25 40 -32
85 = 21 28 -38
80 = 25 29 -30
75 = 22 25 -30
70 = 36 32 -15
65 = 32 32 -9
60 = 14 14 -18
55 = 2 3 -24
50 = 5 -2 -24
45 = 7 -2 -15
40 = -5 -10 -20
35 = -7 -13 -19
30 = -8 -12 -15
25 = -13 -15 -16
20 = -16 -18 -19
15 = -17 -15 -17
10 = -18 -18 -20
5 = -13 -14 -12


There you go

*Edit - it reformatted my columns a bit but you should be able to understand it!

I concur on the bug being activated after u changed the black levels to high.
I also still say that the dancing pixels are easily removed by changing gamma to low and keeping black to low and then turning down brightness and contrast.
post #4991 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D View Post

What are your DeltaEs in the six colors? I only have a Spyder3 and so cannot make a colorcalibration by myself.

Hi guys,

Can't say I have much of a problem with dancing green pixels or banding with the settings I use (yes, Picture NR is off) - I've seen the green pixels in the past while calibrating but have certainly not noticed them being an issue recently. I figure if I don't notice them while I'm calibrating from 2 feet then it's not a problem! Black detail is also very good, only occasionally on some SD material do I think there might be some mild detail loss on black suits etc. It's very easy to get hooked up on problems when you're inspecting from inches away - far closer than you'd ever be watching and a distance where pretty much any screen will show issues!

I'll try to get another run done tonight so I can give you the color delta's - the last readings I took I just did the greyscale so don't have the color info on the file
post #4992 of 5211
Saw "Saving Private Ryan" last night and wow, the 18 hours I spent into finetunung against possible banding was more than worth it!

Brilliant PQ and not a single hint of banding, despite the great amounts of dust, smoke and fog throughout the movie!
post #4993 of 5211
Is there a way to pull the serial # via the menu on screen? I need it for the warranty and don't feel like pulling it off the wall.
post #4994 of 5211
Hi,
I have a samsung plasma model number 5054, which is a 720p set. I was wondering how the 60pk550 compares to this one. Are the colors and blacks as good? I bought the TV in '07 so don't know how much better the blacks and colors have gotten from then to now. Or should i get the samsung plasma c500?
Thanks
post #4995 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by str8desifer View Post

Hi,
I have a samsung plasma model number 5054, which is a 720p set. I was wondering how the 60pk550 compares to this one. Are the colors and blacks as good? I bought the TV in '07 so don't know how much better the blacks and colors have gotten from then to now. Or should i get the samsung plasma c500?
Thanks

I have the 5084 and the 50PK550 and both sets are excellent. I couldnt tell you a difference if there was one.
post #4996 of 5211
Thanks for the reply. I'll check out some other sets.
post #4997 of 5211
i did the settings below but had lower the 90 ire r+25. to 0 because of
sunburst on skin and faces lowering just cure it a little but no completely the good thing is that blacks and colors really pop out shadow detail very good thanks a little redish but that can tweek a little.
post #4998 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D View Post

Saw "Saving Private Ryan" last night and wow, the 18 hours I spent into finetunung against possible banding was more than worth it!

Brilliant PQ and not a single hint of banding, despite the great amounts of dust, smoke and fog throughout the movie!

Am in the process of redoing my calibration - had ambient light creeping in so left if last night with sensor on screen for a couple of hours and it seems red was too low and green too high (possibly caused by the extra red in the ambient light), am mostly done but will try same again tonight to see if it's the sensor or not, if not will be able to tie it down pretty nicely.
post #4999 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Is there a way to pull the serial # via the menu on screen? I need it for the warranty and don't feel like pulling it off the wall.

Use a flashlight and a small mirror. You can read the # backwards
post #5000 of 5211
Copy that. Upper or lower, right or left corner?
post #5001 of 5211
Just thought I'd share my settings. I don't have a meter, though I did try using the iphone app 'colorimeter' which seems to work ok to me, but these are mostly just by eye. A cool app though for $3.99 which gives relative proportions of RGB for the sample and continuously updates. I'd imagine that the software is in fact much the same as with the meters you can buy commercially, perhaps only limited by the camera in the phone itself.

I had tried many settings from other members before, and the ones I came up with seem to produce a much more punchy picture. Most important for me was getting the right brightness and contrast combination, as moving either of these from the below settings just one notch in either direction results in either significant loss of shadow detail or oversaturating the whites, at least with the test images I'm using.

Expert mode
Contrast 65
Brightness 55
H Sharpness 44
V Sharpness 42
Tint 0
Color temp W30

Gamma Medium
Black level Low
White Balance Warm
All others remain unchanged.

20 point IRE settings
IRE R G B
5 -10 -8 0
10 0 0 0
15 0 0 12
20 -20 -10 -10
25 -10 -5 0
30 -9 0 0
35 0 0 0
40 -10 -19 0
45 0 -9 0
50 0 0 0
55 0 0 0
60 0 0 0
65 0 0 0
70 0 0 0
75 0 0 0
80 0 0 0
85 0 0 0
90 0 0 0
95 0 -10 0

no changes to CMS

Of course of note is that I've made almost no changes over IRE 50. This seems to be because either my tv is set correctly OR I can't distinguish any color chifts above 50%, probably the latter. Though if I can't distinguish any changes in colour, then it stands to reason that there really isn't any need to tune those any more as I wouldn't see a difference anyway.

I do have a legitimate meter on order so once in, I can recheck these to see how far I'm off.

I also noted a big difference doing this from a previously used expert setting vs a reset expert setting, meaning that I agree, something weird happens when you change the gamma or black level and then move it back to original position without resetting everything.
post #5002 of 5211
Ok, brand new Plasma owner here, I actully have the pk250. Anyway, I've read through a lot of this thread, and there has been a lot of good info, but it is somewhat overwhelming. I'm looking for thoughts on my planned 'basic newby level' break in for my tv. I plan on putting on the 'color wash' for 1 hr each when I go to bed, and leave for work. Will this be effective?? Is there a simpler way of getting an effective break-in? I know I should avoid anything 4:3, and to keep the color/brightness/contrast all low (all are set at 50 currently) Any basic steps/suggestions would be most appreciated.
post #5003 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by swordo View Post

Ok, brand new Plasma owner here, I actully have the pk250. Anyway, I've read through a lot of this thread, and there has been a lot of good info, but it is somewhat overwhelming. I'm looking for thoughts on my planned 'basic newby level' break in for my tv. I plan on putting on the 'color wash' for 1 hr each when I go to bed, and leave for work. Will this be effective?? Is there a simpler way of getting an effective break-in? I know I should avoid anything 4:3, and to keep the color/brightness/contrast all low (all are set at 50 currently) Any basic steps/suggestions would be most appreciated.

I ran the break in slides from a USB drive for 250 hours or so straight when I first bought my set. didn't change the factory settings to do this nor did i use the tv for anything else. just left it on for a week and a half all day and night (except for a few hours where I turned it off to give it a bit of a break).

I have no issues with image retention or burn in whatsoever now and play lots of games for hours on end and never have anything retained.

I've tried the 'turn everything down for the first few hundred hours' but on prior sets still wound ip with some minor ir issues, mind you that could have been the different tv (samsung plasma).

I've had the tv now for about 8 months, still works flawlessly.
post #5004 of 5211
Jimrod,

I understand Big Brads posted calibration is for 50". I searched the thread with your ID but none of the posts showed what size is yours (may be I missed it). I see that IRE's are quite different in yours vs BB's.

TIA,

Harry
post #5005 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimrod View Post

Am in the process of redoing my calibration - had ambient light creeping in so left if last night with sensor on screen for a couple of hours and it seems red was too low and green too high (possibly caused by the extra red in the ambient light), am mostly done but will try same again tonight to see if it's the sensor or not, if not will be able to tie it down pretty nicely.

If ambient is the problem it will only effect the lower IRE levels. I have noticed that if I reposition the sensor the readings change significantly. I suspect this is what you may be experiencing. Also, both the D2 probe and the panel change quite a lot as they heat up. These screens just are not consistent enough to spend much time calibrating imho. Best bet is to pick a spot on the screen that gives an "average" reading (after moving the probe around to explore), and calibrate that point, then don't go back the next day and try to verify because you'll never find that point again. Alternatively, hold the probe away from the screen on a tripod to capture an spatial average.

Even with the fluctuations it's still a great looking picture.
post #5006 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Copy that. Upper or lower, right or left corner?

I remember reading mine with a mirror. Not easy with a 0.6 inch wall mount, but possible. I think it was upper right side (as viewed from the front).
post #5007 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalkonfuzion View Post

The DSE is a bit annoying now that I know it's there. I was watching Transformers 2 today and in some of those desert scenes I saw some pretty bad DSE and vertical banding (I'm assuming that's what I saw as it seems like the brightness uniformity is off). It seems like it's really just about all over the screen at different levels of intensity. These are cheap panels, but at $1300 that I paid I could easily toss in a few hundred more and get something I'm happier with as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turrican4D View Post

The banding is caused by uneven calibration in most of the cases!


Banding is something you can help minimize with proper calibration, yes. But dirty screen effect (DSE) is a characteristic of the panel construction and is there forever. The PK550 has a lot of DSE.

In my experience the PK550 has very little banding. Only time I see it is with low bit rate sources (some SD Netflix for example). Ironically, the same coarse dithering process that leads to the dancing pixels many people complain about also make the set less susceptible to banding. It's a trade off.
post #5008 of 5211
I found out that on top of the bug that gets activated after changing blacklevels, also fiddling with ire points causes colorshift, especially noticable in the avs test patterns . So it's very important that u calibrate this tv and after u have the best calibration u can possibly get, reset the colors and input your settings correctly from the first time. Gone colorshift, the picture is immediatley better then it was, with the same settings ! Actually the difference is sooo big, that u'll need to fine tune your calibration again. Wich mean fiddling again, wich means again colorshifts being created... So after u recalibrated for the second time, repeat the process...

Seriously , this is by far the hardest thing i EVER had to calibrate, BUT, when u get it right, u just cannot find better PQ for the money .
post #5009 of 5211
My problems calibrating might be due to the probe positioning. I have a good 32 ftL calibration that I did a couple of weeks ago for Expert 1 (night) and the picture quality is great, but I'd like a brighter picture setting as well for Expert 2 (day). I've been trying the last two weeks to calibrate a 36 or 40ftL picture, but I kept getting a slight yellowish tint on IRE 35 that translates to a yellow glow on some flesh tones. I kept running out of RGB adjustment points when I get to IRE 35. I've tried different 100% luminance targets only to find a problem at a IRE 30 or IRE 40 instead. I must have calibrated Expert 1 at a good probe placement, but currently unable to replicate. I did not get low Delta E values across the board, but the picture quality was great. Maybe I'll just keep the same Expert 1 setting and transfer them to Expert 2 and up the contrast and brightness. Have anyone tried that and find the picture quality acceptable or similar?

At the moment I use the "Standard" picture mode for daytime viewing, but I don't want to switch picture settings everytime I turn on the tv to get a good picture. Would like to have a good "middle" setting for both day and night viewing and not play around with picture all the time. Thanks
post #5010 of 5211
Quote:
Originally Posted by denkiedenk View Post

I found out that on top of the bug that gets activated after changing blacklevels, also fiddling with ire points causes colorshift, especially noticable in the avs test patterns . So it's very important that u calibrate this tv and after u have the best calibration u can possibly get, reset the colors and input your settings correctly from the first time. Gone colorshift, the picture is immediatley better then it was, with the same settings ! Actually the difference is sooo big, that u'll need to fine tune your calibration again. Wich mean fiddling again, wich means again colorshifts being created... So after u recalibrated for the second time, repeat the process...

Seriously , this is by far the hardest thing i EVER had to calibrate, BUT, when u get it right, u just cannot find better PQ for the money .

Thx for this post, that may be the reason for my calibration woes. So i just have to input the settings without IRE test windows the second time after the picture reset?
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