The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR608 Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 171

Thanks JChin. I tried the reset and that didn't work. In the interim I was able to reach Onkyo support over the phone and they weren't able to help either. They gave me the contact infer for a service center so I guess I'll try sending it in.

If you haven't yet, try a different sub cable.

Ok this one has me stumped.

I have my boxee box connected to my BD/DVD HDMI input, now when I initially switch to that input I like to go straight to the "audio" shortcut on the remote, however, for some reason BD/DVD, VCR/DVD and CBL/SAT inputs all force you to first hit the "receiver" remote button before you can go to the audio shortcut menu.

Is there any way to stop those sources from defaulting to TV control on the remote?

I tried resetting the remote to default, but it did not change the issue.

It seems to be as designed, note that the OE remote control is a universal model and that the buttons are outlined by a label that says REMOTE MODE / INPUT SELECTOR.

You have to press the receiver button to switch the remote back to receiver mode.

The only way to solve this would be an aftermarket remote that can send the input commands without also switching modes.

What zone 2 amp? It does not exist. All 7 amplifier channels are identical and are powered by the same single set of symmetrical voltage rails. There are only speaker protection relays that disconnect the SB/FH/FW/bi-amp terminals and connect the FH/FW/Z2 terminals from two of the amplifier channels.

I think even the headphone port on this model is driven by 2 of the main amplifier channels with resistors added to drop the voltage. An actual headphone amp IC instead would have been nice, resistors kill the speaker damping abilities of the amp.

The only thing I can think of are speaker sensitivity variances and speaker level calibration differences.

Hi,
I have the denon tx sr 608.
Really I'm after the most efficient way to watch video from my macbook to my hdtv thru the denon? I used a hdmi adapter but that's only video to the aux in. I can't get audio. I can't see how to do it?
wifi is too slow. plugging to 'line in ' in the front doesn't immediately work. Am I not doing something easy? In setup can only assign digital inputs to the hdmi?
(I do have a network hardwired to roku and playstation. if that's efficient how do I do that?)
thanks

You need to plug line out or headphones to the front.

I believe with the Macbook you can also use a miniplug to Toslink optical cable:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Hi jal11, maybe because you're try to connect video to Denon and audio to SR608. j/k

What type of audio cable are you using?

Connections and Assignment:
MacBook dvi port -> dvi/hdmi adapter -> SR608 front "AUX" input
MacBook Headphone port -> mini toslink/toslink -> SR608 back "OPT-1"

Go into Input/Output Assign menu under Digital Audio Input and assign "AUX" to OPT-1

Select your input source "AUX", on the remote press "Receiver" then "Home" button, select "Audio" and under "Audio Selector" change setting "OPT".

Hi,

I have the Onkyo SR-608 paired with the KEF3500SE Home Theater Speakers.

I'm ran Audessey (sp?) and it came up with this for the crossover settings:

Front: 70 hz
Center: 60 hz
Surround: 80 hz
Sub: Yes

First of all, I'm a little confused as to why Audessey would make the Front and Surround different since they're the exact same speaker. But that's not really my question

Everything I've read online about the speakers say that I should set the subwoofer crossover to 120 hz. That means that the sub would really be doing a lot more than it is currently, no?

Should I manually change to 120 from what Audessey got? Is this question more suited for the Audessey board? Or the KEF board?

Thanks so much!

Audyssey puts different crossover settings for the same speakers because depending on where they are in the room it can extend the range due to room acoustics.

You want to set the sub to 120, that setting is not a crossover like the rest of the settings are.

If I have to set the sub to 120 how do I do that on this model? When I go to Setup-->Speaker Setup-->Speaker Configuration I only see these options:

Subwoofer (Yes/No)
Front: 60Hz
Center: 70Hz
Surround 80Hz

There's also "LPF of LFE" which is currently set to 120Hz?

Sorry I'm clueless here and I just want to make sure I set this up right. I copied and pasted this from cnet.com which is basically what I"m trying to achieve:

"We experimented with the subwoofer crossover control, first setting it to 100Hz, then to 120Hz; the higher-frequency crossover setting yielded the smoothest bass transition from the subwoofer to satellites. That level of adjustability isn't available on all A/V receivers, so buyers interested in the KHT-3005 should first consult the owner's manuals to make sure they can tweak the necessary subwoofer crossover settings"

THANKS!!!!!!!!

Hello, can anyone tell me what's the maximum speaker wire size the SR 608 will take? Directly without plugs, that is.

Thank you in advance.

I don't think it matters because the 608 does not have enough
power to worry about power drops in the wire.

I might be upgrading to the 5009 in the future and I find larger wires aren't that much more expensive. Therefore, my only worry is that it won't fit. Size would be 6mm² or abo ut AWG 9 I think.

I don't know the answer off hand without using my INSIDE Calipers.

Can someone help me with this. I know zone 2 only plays analog but what about UP-A1?

My question is still up...

But because I see it:



LFE channel and general x-over aren't the same.

LFE is the dedicated subwoofer low frequency effects channel provided on Blu-Rays and DVDs carrying signals from lowest to 120Hz. The low pass filter (LPF) on this one does exactly that. Only the signals below that frequency will passt and be sent to the Sub. Therefore, it should be left at 120Hz unless your sub has problems delivering frequencies above a certain frequency or your're experiencing any other problems with that setting (exessive localization of the subwoofer for example).

The speaker x-over, however, is the handover-frequency from the "real" sound channels, which can contain material over the complete frequency band. If you set it at 60Hz, the subwoofer will receive everything below 60Hz and the speakers the frequencies above. As a general rule, setting this between 60 and 100Hz will be best most of the time, as setting it too high will make localization of the subwoofer possible... nothing you'd want. On the other hand, you obviously can't set it lower than what your speakers are capable of. Therefore, you shouldn't go below their -3dB point. Furthermore, you have to consider that the lower you set the crossover, the harder your receiver's amp has to work because your main speakers are usually passive and powered by the receiver while the sub has its own amp.

To answer your question: Of you want to crossover your speakers at 120, set each speaker (Front, Center, Surround) to 120Hz.

Hello all. I have an Ion USB10 turntable. It has a built in pre-amp but I am not happy with the sound when I connect it to my 608. My question is: Even though it has a built in pre-amp, can I use a better amp between it and the 608? If so, can someone recommend a reasonably priced one and what input on the 608 would be best to connect it to?

Thanks, Tim

I have an onkyo 608. For a year it has served me well
Suddenly the HDMI input to my TV has stopped functioning.
Fortunately I have a high quality projector that still is HDMI functional

I would like to still watch some things on my TV through composite RCA leads (basically yellow lead)
Try as I might simply plugging the yellow lead from the back of the onkyo monitor out to the input of the TV is not working!
I would really appreciate any help that people can offer so I can watch on my TV albeit through lower resolution and then save the projector for blueray etc.
Thank you

Running into a major problem here. Don't know how prevalent it is. I've searched everywhere (including this thread.) and have found nothing. Wondering if any of you guys/gals could help.

I'm trying to get my laptop (Toshiba L355-S7905; Specs*) to display on my TV (Panasonic VIERA TC-P50G25). I have it running through a SVGA cable to the PC Input on my AVR (Onkyo TX-SR608), which is connected to my TV via HDMI 1.3. I have it setup for my desktop to only display on the TV (Not Extend or Duplicate.). It connects fine and show up on the screen but it won't fit to the screen. It has big bars on both sides no matter what I do. I look at both the resolution in the Windows display settings and Intel Graphics Media Accelerator Control Panel and they are both set to 1920x1080. My Onkyo is also set to output 1080p to my TV. I can change the video setting to "Full" mode and it almost fits (A couple black columns on the sides), but it stretches out the picture.

I don't know what to do, I've tried everything. I'm really not wanting to spend more money on a VGA to HDMI Converter Box. To be honest at this point I'd be happy even I could even get it to fill the screen at 720p, as most of the stuff I want to watch (Anime, Movies, and Live Action TV files) are at 720p anyway.

----
*Typed some of the specs out here for those who don't feel like going to the link:

Intel® Celeron® Processor 585
Genuine Windows Vista® Home Basic (SP1, 32-bit)
3GB PC6400 DDR2 800MHz SDRAM
Mobile Intel® Graphics Media Accelerator 4500M
128MB-1342MB dynamically allocated shared graphics memory
WXGA+ with TruBrite® Technology 1440x900

CCCP Codec Pack (H.264/AVC Filter Off, VSFilter Off)
CoreAVC Codec
MPC-HC Player
----

Sorry for the long post. Any help would be very much appreciated.

gurugt705 - If you hit 'display' on the Onkyo remote it will show you what the input and output resolutions are. This will verify if the PC is sending out 1080p.

...BTW, if you really mean 'svga cable' as opposed to 'vga cable', then that is what your problem is. svga is 800x600 maximum resolution.

SVGA resolution is 800x600, but that's not a maximum for the cable. Most analog video PC cables sold today are "SVGA cables" and handle high res just fine.

You must turn HDMI off in setup for the composite to work.
Larry

Here's what it says:

[Video] PC

Input: Analog RGB
1920 x 1080 60Hz (No p here, not sure if it matters)

Output: HDMI
1920 x 1080p 60Hz

Picture Mode: Custom

-------

Here's the cable I'm using: 15ft. SVGA

Here's what the problem looks like: Pic

Thanks for all your trouble. Not trying to hog the thread or anything, just really want some kind of solution.

Summary:

1. VGA and SVGA cables have exactly identical pinning and characteristics.

2. SVGA cables are better built compared to VGA cables.

3. SVGA cables are more expensive compared to VGA cables.

4. SVGA cables are better suited for longer distances than VGA cables.

Read more: Difference Between VGA Cable and SVGA Cable | Difference Between | VGA Cable vs SVGA Cable http://www.differencebetween.net/tec...#ixzz1r6UdJYmg

I have an issue with my 608 that suddenly started.
Have DishNetwork, combo DVD/VCR, AppleTV running to receiver by HDMI. HDMI running to Vizio LCD. I have the pass thru on as I never usually watch regular programming with the receiver on.
Recently the satellite picture started getting snowy and then would go to a pink/black screen with audio loss. I would turn on the receiver, switch input to tuner, DVD and still same issue. I ran the Dish HDMI directly to TV and issue is gone so it appears that it is the receiver. I have not turned off the upscaling per the 1st post, would this resolve my issue?
I did try another input for the Dish HDMI (DVD/VCR) and the issue was still present.

I have attached a pic (please excuse the upset Russian Blue in the lower...he hates the interruption in his programming.)

Thanks,
midnight

I have read about some problems with the HDMI boards in the 608's. Looks to me like your board is bad. I don't think turning off the upscaling will help but it can't hurt to try. Sorry for the bad news.
Larry

Go figure, one month after the warranty is up. I can't really afford a new one right now...but I know for sure it isn't going to be an Onkyo next time.

If you are only one month out of warranty they may fix it. I would contact Onkyo and try. If it's a known problem I bet they'll fix it.

OK I have to wonder how many people that have had an HDMI board fail also have "high-power standby" enabled.

Remember that when HDMI-CEC (RI-HD) is enabled the 608 leaves the main power transformer powered in standby so that the HDMI board is powered, but this also makes the standby power usage around 30 watts instead of just a few watts. I have a feeling that this is cooking the HDMI boards. I have HDMI-CEC disabled on mine.