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The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR608 Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 29

post #841 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by docprego View Post

I'd say mine is at the point where I am satisfied with it. Even if the Harmony misses an input switch occasionally I can live with that considering all the advantages it offers. I did run through the troubleshooting sequence.

docprego, have you tried changing the input delay on the Harmony 700? below is some tips i pulled form the logitech boards. hope this helps.

-

If your device doesn't react to a command from the Harmony, it may be because the delay setting needs to be adjusted. By default, different devices take different amounts of time to react to a command from a remote control. To accommodate these differences in your devices, the Harmony uses several types of delays, or speed settings, to control your devices.



Power On Delay

The Power On Delay is the amount of time that a device needs to warm up before receiving another command. For instance, when you turn on a device, you may notice that the device needs a certain amount of time before it can receive another command from the remote.

Example:

Every time I turn on my system with an Activity, my TV powers on but doesn't go to the correct input. However, it does go to the correct input when switching between Activities when the TV is already on. The Help button fi xes it each time, but I don't want to use the Help button every time.



Inter-Key Delay

The Inter-Key Delay is the amount of time allotted for commands to be sent between button presses.

Example:

Any time I press volume up multiple times in a row for my AV Receiver, it takes a long time to increase the volume. I would like my devices to respond quicker to these presses.



Input Delay

The Input Delay is the amount of time that the remote takes when switching between inputs. Many devices need a certain amount of time before changing to the next input in the input list.

Example:

My TV doesn't always go to the correct input when switching between Activities and I have already verifi ed that the input list is correct.



Inter-Device Delay

The Inter-Device Delay is the amount of time between commands for different devices when you start an Activity. The Inter-Device Delay is also the time between the next sequence of commands that are sent to other devices within an Activity.

Example:

My DVD player doesn't always turn on when I start the Activity. I can get the DVD player to turn on by using the Help button, however I don't want to use Help every time.



Repeats

The Repeats are the number of times the remote repeats a command for a device to properly respond to the command. For instance, many devices need longer or shorter command repetitions to respond properly.

Example:

Any time I press channel up, my Digital Set Top Box skips two channels at a time.
post #842 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Connect the Wii audio cables (red & white) to Input name GAME (instead of TV/CD).
Go to Input/Output Assign, set HDMI Input under Input Selector Game from HDMI-4 to (-----), set Component Video Input under Input Selector Game from (-----) to IN-2, set Digital Audio Input under Input Selector Game from OPT-1 to (-----).

Thanks got it working, for some reason i thought I had to plug the audio cables into the ports directly below the component cables.
post #843 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Howie411 View Post

Thanks got it working, for some reason i thought I had to plug the audio cables into the ports directly below the component cables.

It does seem that way by looking at it. But don't this unit allow you to rename the source input like from GAME to Wii?
post #844 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Howie411 View Post

Oh sorry about that. I don't want it to turn on the Wii, but I want it so if I hit the Game button on the remote, the Input on the receiver cycles to what connections I have hooked up to the Wii. The problem is the only input that accepts RCA (audio cables) seems to be the TV/CD option.

Howie are you using both of the component inputs on the receiver? If not you may want to get a component cable for your Wii.

I haven't gotten my Onkyo 608 yet but I do have a component cable for my Wii I bought from MonoPrice a while back for just a few bucks and it did help with the picture quality with it connected to my Samsung TV. It allows you to output the Wii at 480P & 16:9 in the Wii's setup menu. Should upconvert better I would think, but I have yet to get mine so??

You should be able to reassign the audio inputs to match the component video input or most other video input. I believe JChin covered that.
post #845 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagged1 View Post

Howie are you using both of the component inputs on the receiver? If not you may want to get a component cable for your Wii.

I haven't gotten my Onkyo 608 yet but I do have a component cable for my Wii I bought from MonoPrice a while back for just a few bucks and it did help with the picture quality with it connected to my Samsung TV. It allows you to output the Wii at 480P & 16:9 in the Wii's setup menu. Should upconvert better I would think, but I have yet to get mine so??

You should be able to reassign the audio inputs to match the component video input or most other video input. I believe JChin covered that.

I ended up getting it all working, on my previous Pioneer I wasn't able to do it because of how the audio jacks were set up.

Now when I press game mode, my Xbox works or my Wii works, depending on which is on, not sure what happens if I turn both on, I assume the Xbox will take priority since its using the HDMI.
post #846 of 5217
Hi,

does anyone know if there is a RS232 hidden in the universal port? Or at least, do anyone have the pinout for the universal port?

Regards
Tobias
post #847 of 5217
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kev1031 View Post

Ok this is what I have for my 7.1 setup:

Polk Audio Monitor 60 - front
Polk Audio CS1 - Center
Polk Audio PSW10 - sub woofer
Energy take classic - surround and surround back

Am I setting it all wrong to "80Hz THX"?

or should I follow Audyssey calibration?

I have a similar setup & recently went to 80hz THX as well... I thought it was more clear & the sub handled bass best. I used Audyssey as a guide & tweaked it further from there to my liking.
post #848 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

It does seem that way by looking at it. But don't this unit allow you to rename the source input like from GAME to Wii?

Yes you can rename inputs as they are displayed on the screen and front of the unit, but you can't rename the button on the remote

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eltosch View Post

Hi,

does anyone know if there is a RS232 hidden in the universal port? Or at least, do anyone have the pinout for the universal port?

Regards
Tobias

No it doesn't have one. You have to step up to one of the more expensive units for that. Or are you asking is there one on the circuit board that you could hack a connection for?
post #849 of 5217
Just about finished hooking up 608. Getting excellent results from cable box and PS3 for Blu Rays and DVDs.
Cable hooked up component video and digital cox audio. PSE hooked up with component video and digital optical audio.
Have Wii connected composite video and audio in "game" slot. Getting audio, but no video.
This is feeding a Sony HD XBR CRT TV, so 608 is connected to set via component video. Therefore no OSD. Am using front panel display to do setup. I understand (and applaud the simplicity of) the setup for digital connections. There is no way to manage composite connections that I can find.
AM I missing something? Anyone else having this problem?
Thanks
post #850 of 5217
hi, i thought i was ready to click "add to cart" for the 608, after reading this thread (as well as some forum member feedback) with the countless praises this receiver is getting. then i ran into the ht-rc180 at a relatively similar price point - difference of about $100. i am new to a/v receivers, therefore my knowledge base is quite weak and i'm unable to decide which is better. is one better than the other?

as of right now, my other equipment - tv, xbox/ps3, speakers - are all on the lower end, but im planning to upgrade little by little (still in school). thanks for any help!
post #851 of 5217
The RC-180 is the better unit if you don't care about some of the "2010 features" like hdmi 1.4a, there may be others (hdmi pass through while the unit is off?).
The RC-180 has more power, more weight, can handle 4ohm speakers, it has networking, has a learning remote, has pre-outs, has the better MultEQ version of Audyssey, etc. For reference the RC-180 falls in between the 707 and 807.
post #852 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by guybguy View Post

Just about finished hooking up 608. Getting excellent results from cable box and PS3 for Blu Rays and DVDs.
Cable hooked up component video and digital cox audio. PSE hooked up with component video and digital optical audio.
Have Wii connected composite video and audio in "game" slot. Getting audio, but no video.
This is feeding a Sony HD XBR CRT TV, so 608 is connected to set via component video. Therefore no OSD. Am using front panel display to do setup. I understand (and applaud the simplicity of) the setup for digital connections. There is no way to manage composite connections that I can find.
AM I missing something? Anyone else having this problem?
Thanks

you need to assign the input selector (game) to the right input (composite). the default assignment for "game" is HDMI4. read page 39 of the manual for advice.
post #853 of 5217
"Composite" is not a setup option - can select HDMI, component, or digital. On page 21 it looks like composite will be passed to the TV by HDMI, but not via component, which is what I have to use to my TV. It appears I will have to live with switching the input on the TV in order to use the Wii. Not the end of the world, just not as tidy as I would prefer.
post #854 of 5217
Not the greatest solution, but:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Then get yourself the Wii component video cable and you're off to the races. Or... this is a perfect excuse to upgrade your TV
post #855 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by guybguy View Post

"Composite" is not a setup option - can select HDMI, component, or digital. On page 21 it looks like composite will be passed to the TV by HDMI, but not via component, which is what I have to use to my TV. It appears I will have to live with switching the input on the TV in order to use the Wii. Not the end of the world, just not as tidy as I would prefer.

Hi guybguy, another option would be to get a Component switch box and Wii component cables. And the switch box has its own remote, even better it you own a harmony remote to control it all.
post #856 of 5217
Yep. Or could do the PS3 and/or cable box via HDMI, freeing up a component slot for Wii with component cable. The Wii is rarely used, so I think I will live with it. Time to put everything back in place and run the Audessey. Will be interesting to see how it compares to my Integra 9.9 pre-pro's Audessey on my main system. Also to the Pioneer proprietary system I ran helping someone else set something up recently.
post #857 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by guybguy View Post

Yep. Or could do the PS3 and/or cable box via HDMI, freeing up a component slot for Wii with component cable. The Wii is rarely used, so I think I will live with it. Time to put everything back in place and run the Audessey. Will be interesting to see how it compares to my Integra 9.9 pre-pro's Audessey on my main system. Also to the Pioneer proprietary system I ran helping someone else set something up recently.

Personally, I'd do as much via HDMI as possible since I'm a neat freak and hate wires and cables all over the place. And HDMI cables are cheap.

Edit: Didn't see that your TV doesn't have HDMI inputs. Upgrade the TV
post #858 of 5217
Thank you all. I have a box full of HDMI cables, and after moving this beast (200 lbs.) upstairs when I put in the main system I am in no hurry to replace it. This system is used basically for my wife's yoga DVDs and some TV watching while exercising. Will try to keep my obsessive tendencies focused on the main system.
608 is a capable unit for the money, that is certain, and does everything I need and more where it is.
post #859 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveHCYJ View Post

The RC-180 is the better unit if you don't care about some of the "2010 features" like hdmi 1.4a, there may be others (hdmi pass through while the unit is off?).
The RC-180 has more power, more weight, can handle 4ohm speakers, it has networking, has a learning remote, has pre-outs, has the better MultEQ version of Audyssey, etc. For reference the RC-180 falls in between the 707 and 807.

Thanks for the help. I havent had any experience with the 2010 features, are they anything to die for? I like the fact that Onkyo has added a fan in the 608 allowing it to run cooler. A sign of improved quality. What would you choose, with a ~$100 difference?
post #860 of 5217
I guess I didn't do enough research before buying this amp. Since this amp is not rated for 4 ohm speakers am I going to have a problem driving some old Paradigm Reference v2 speakers (7.1 config)? I'm pretty sure they're 4ohm speakers.
post #861 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by guybguy View Post

Yep. Or could do the PS3 and/or cable box via HDMI, freeing up a component slot for Wii with component cable. The Wii is rarely used, so I think I will live with it. Time to put everything back in place and run the Audessey. Will be interesting to see how it compares to my Integra 9.9 pre-pro's Audessey on my main system. Also to the Pioneer proprietary system I ran helping someone else set something up recently.

Using HDMI cables for Input will not down convert to Component Output, so this will not work.
post #862 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfram View Post

I guess I didn't do enough research before buying this amp. Since this amp is not rated for 4 ohm speakers am I going to have a problem driving some old Paradigm Reference v2 speakers (7.1 config)? I'm pretty sure they're 4ohm speakers.

Hi Wolfram, I think as long as you keep it at a moderate volume (like -30db to -10db) you shouldn't have any issue. If you do happen to raise the volume to high, the unit will most likey shut down and go in to protection mode. This unit has a max volume feature which can be set to a max limit which would likely be helpful in your situation (like setting it at -10db).
post #863 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by tunaman4u2 View Post

I have a similar setup & recently went to 80hz THX as well... I thought it was more clear & the sub handled bass best. I used Audyssey as a guide & tweaked it further from there to my liking.



I did that same as tunaman... Started with audyssey, then tweaked out distance with manual measure with tape measure, then set fronts to 60hz (think tunaman has his @ 40hz, i went 60hz so my fronts dont over power my sub BUT gives a nice blend so no HZ listening is lost and bass phase out doesn't occur / 60hz is still a nice deep bass / keep killer bass for sub / what sub is for = polk audio monitor 70's have mad skills and can't be beat for the money $179 shipped!!!!!),,,,,,,,,, side surrounds / rear surrounds / center to 80hz THX, and sub to 80hz THX. I set my subwoofer psw505 (on the sub itself) to 1/2 volume LFE input @ 180phase. Audyssey set my subwoofer @ -7db, but I tweeked it up a bit to -4db = give killer movie bass, BUT not too much so it isn't "boomy" for music... While using audyssey as the EQ, using dynamic EQ "on", and playing with the intellivolume between inputs so volume is constant across the board. Also bumped up my rear surrounds up a few db's, while lowering my side surrounds -2dbs due to my theatre being 13'x26'. Fronts / center set @ 0db's. Also using listening modes PLIIx Movie THX cinema for almost everything while using PLIIx movie game-action for PC gaming and PLIIx music for music. IMO, PLIIx everything is the bomb... THX select 2 is good / OK< but I'm a PLIIx fan right now. This receiver is mad awesome and one of the best electronic purchases I've made so far. Loving the built in fan also = crazy cool unit. Volume this unit pushes out is awesome and in my case = no additional amp needed. Volume never goes pass 1/2 (50) with my set up (i think this all depends on your source input volume = my HT PC pushes out really awesome input volume with room to keep going / my TV / DVR is a bit lower than my computer optical volume output / fixed with intellivolume).


my 7.1 set up (all off newegg.com for crazy low on sale prices w/free shipping, just hit them all at the right time for all on sale $$$$$.....)

fronts @ 2 each = polk audio monitor 70's (179.99 each free shipping),,,, 70's are AWESOME!!! they can easily take the bass all the way down to full band if wanted/ needed...... highly recomened over 50 & 60 series.

center @ 1 each = polk audio cs2 (109.99 free shipping)

surrounds @ 4 each (sides/rear) = polk audio monitor 50's (89.99 each free shipping)

subwoofer @ 1 each = polk audio psw505 12" powered sub with 300watt continuous power,,,,grrrrrrrr loving this sub!!!!!!! (229.99 free shipping)


elfy1234
post #864 of 5217
Thread Starter 
Elfy we are in the same surround heaven... it even makes watching Glee with the pregnant wife enjoyable (Well as enjoyable as it can be when the Celtics playoff game is off!)

BTW Heres a FANTASTIC discussion of Onkyo Double Bass & Sub config
http://forum.blu-ray.com/receivers/1...s-feature.html


Basically it explains why Double bass is not recommended
My sub cross is set at 80 hz & I'm sticking with 180 phase using the LFE in
Personally with the PSW505 I'm using the Auto function.

My volume is VERY often above 50... more like 60 for now.
Could be the in-ceiling speakers.

Elfy- I went from 40hz to 80hz with the Monitor 70s now! The PSW505 does such a great job in those frequencies. I noticed they interfered with each other until I moved to 80hz.

I'm going to try my 8" ceilings at 50hz vs 80hz... They should handle those frequencies well... lets see.
EDIT: That didn't last long... ceilings back to 80hz...
I'm officially done tinkering with levels & frequencies! Nice!
post #865 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by tunaman4u2 View Post

Elfy we are in the same surround heaven... it even makes watching Glee with the pregnant wife enjoyable (Well as enjoyable as it can be when the Celtics playoff game is off!)

BTW Heres a FANTASTIC discussion of Onkyo Double Bass & Sub config
http://forum.blu-ray.com/receivers/1...s-feature.html


Basically it explains why Double bass is not recommended
My sub cross is set at 80 hz & I'm sticking with 180 phase using the LFE in
Personally with the PSW505 I'm using the Auto function.

My volume is VERY often above 50... more like 60 for now.
Could be the in-ceiling speakers.

Elfy- I went from 40hz to 80hz with the Monitor 70s now! The PSW505 does such a great job in those frequencies. I noticed they interfered with each other until I moved to 80hz.

I'm going to try my 8" ceilings at 50hz vs 80hz... They should handle those frequencies well... lets see.
EDIT: That didn't last long... ceilings back to 80hz...
I'm officially done tinkering with levels & frequencies! Nice!

Cool, I'll try 80hz on my fronts for a while and I'll let you know what I think. Prob wont notice much of a diff going from 60 to 80, but I'll keep you informed. Good info, thanks!

BTW, I'm almost to that point where I have my system almost perfect after playing with the 608 IMO / personal speaker set up. Agree with you! lock it in and enjoy!


elfy1234
post #866 of 5217
BTW, try the song: U2- miracle drug!!! It's an awesome test song!


elfy1234
post #867 of 5217
Quote:
Originally Posted by tunaman4u2 View Post

Elfy we are in the same surround heaven... it even makes watching Glee with the pregnant wife enjoyable (Well as enjoyable as it can be when the Celtics playoff game is off!)

BTW Heres a FANTASTIC discussion of Onkyo Double Bass & Sub config
http://forum.blu-ray.com/receivers/1...s-feature.html


Basically it explains why Double bass is not recommended
My sub cross is set at 80 hz & I'm sticking with 180 phase using the LFE in
Personally with the PSW505 I'm using the Auto function.

My volume is VERY often above 50... more like 60 for now.
Could be the in-ceiling speakers.

Elfy- I went from 40hz to 80hz with the Monitor 70s now! The PSW505 does such a great job in those frequencies. I noticed they interfered with each other until I moved to 80hz.

I'm going to try my 8" ceilings at 50hz vs 80hz... They should handle those frequencies well... lets see.
EDIT: That didn't last long... ceilings back to 80hz...
I'm officially done tinkering with levels & frequencies! Nice!

BTW, what db level do you have your subwoofer on the 608? and what is your sub's volume at?


elfy1234
post #868 of 5217
Umm, okay, I love my new Onkyo 608, but I have a few concerns. Does anyone else have a unit that makes a constant noise? Is this normal? Let me describe. If I mute my speakers, I hear the receiver making a constant noise kind of similar to the sound of a computer processor. It will even do this if I just turn the receiver on and have no inputs turned on (hence, it can't actually be a result of any decoding going on). Again, is this noise normal? My 2 yr old Yamaha ran completely quiet, but it wasn't as powerful (though still pushed 100 watts per channel; a part of the YHT-390 HTIB). ??? Help, if it's not normal, I want this fixed.

Also, I have noticed that I have actually heard a random click by the receiver while watching a blu-ray. I don't know if it happened after I fast forwarded or chapter skipped (which, I guess, could have caused it). However, I know it wasn't a result of a different audio source format (like switching from digital to analog while watching cable TV--and I actually have it preset to Dolby Digital & Pro Logic to avoid clicking). ???

Your help is appreciated.

(Oh, one more random thought--I have Polk TSI100's for my surrounds but need speaker stands. I am having trouble justifying the price for them because I can get a great deal on TSI300's. Is it overkill to put floorstanders in the back [I have TSI400's in the front.]? Or should I just stick with the TSI100's? Right now, I can't mount them to the wall.)
post #869 of 5217
I've just ordered my 608 tonight and am looking for the wisdom of the people here to help me get this thing setup quickly.

Here's what I have going to it:
  • TV - Samsung LN52B610
  • Blu-Ray - Samsung BD-C6500
  • Xbox 360 HDMI w/ HD-DVD
  • Wii w/ Componet Video Kit
  • Comcast Motorola 3412 HD DVR (HDMI - but having troubles getting it working at the moment)
  • Polk 5.1 Speakers (two powered towers)
  • Sony HDMI 10.2Gbps swivel head cables (one 2 meter, and the rest are 1 meter)

I'm coming from a $10k RPTV configuration that was highly tuned and calibrated back in 2000 and has been serving me very well.

I'm assuming that I just need to hook up all my HDMI 10.2Gbps cables to the 608, and then send the 2 meter HDMI cable to the TV, run the Audyssey 2EQ setup and I'm 90% done. From there I just plan to tweak the video and audio to taste.

Thoughts, recommendations?



Early observations are that the TV out of the box works fairly well in Movie mode, but the colors are off a bit. The Xbox 360 with HD-DVD works very well and the colors look pretty good, but everything else is pretty lame. I'm assuming that DVD Essentials will come to the rescue there.
post #870 of 5217
Hi guys,

I just have received my first receiver (608) in my life, and I want to ask you, that is it normal if I change the listening mode like THX -> Pure Audio -> PL2x... or I change the sound type on the PC (Music-stereo PCM -> DTS stream) I hear a little bit annoying relay click sound.

Second notice was that I use HDMI connection between the PC (ATI 5750) & the onkyo 608 receiver and after couple of minutes ~10 minutes I lose the HDMI connection. Only the PC restart helps, the unplug-plug doesn't. I tried the first and last HDMI input channel. The PC shows that there is no HDMI connection.
At this moment I don't have HDMi output cable connected from the receiver, because the TV didn't receive yet.

Can you tell me is it normal or what can I do to fix it?

If I'm using opical connection everything is fine, and I have to say I'm pretty pleased with the sound quality. I like the Pure Audio to listening music.

Thx,
Roland
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