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Sony HT-CT150 and CT350 - Page 69

post #2041 of 2094
ARC should handle the audio just fine. No need to run an optical, but that's always an option if there is a problem with ARC.
post #2042 of 2094
I was able to get an open box CT150 today from Best Buy for $89, however, it did not include the remote. Can I use any type of universal remote to control all of the features, or will I specifically need the stock remote to control everything?
post #2043 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post

Use the original remote to program the commands you are having problems with into the Harmony. It is very simple and works every time; go to CUSTOMIZE BUTTONS, and select LEARN COMMANDS.

Still doesn't work. Maybe I set up the device wrong? I have it as an amplifier.
post #2044 of 2094
I have mine set up as an amplifier as well, and I didn't have any problems programming my Harmony remote. I would suggest you delete the device, and start over again, making sure the Harmony software recognizes the model number correctly.
post #2045 of 2094
I was considering the HT-CT150 or the 550, and I saw this bit on an Amazon review about subpar sound on the 150 when using Netflix on a Roku. Can anybody here comment? It sounds like he may have had it set up incorrectly, but I'd like some input from the users here.
"There's a major shortcoming with the CT150, and that is lack of support for "Dolby Digital Plus", "Dolby True HD" and "DTS HD". This means that you cannot play surround sound on the Netflix app w Roku. Other devices (e.g. PS3) may do downcoding, but Roku does not. This means Netflix + Roku + CT150 = stereo sound--which is worthless. This is pretty critical if you consume most of your video through the Roku as I do. See the owners manual page 36 for a complete list of supported streaming encodings. I was rather disappointed when I read this. i.e. don't buy this unit if you use Roku + Netflix."
http://www.amazon.com/review/R38WC3F24IT1V6/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm/?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B003C1AO2I&linkCode=&nodeID=&tag=
post #2046 of 2094
Somewhat interested in this unit mainly because my current soundbar is limited on inputs (2 opitical). I love my Samsung Soundbar but when I watch something that is "old" without a lot lower tones the soundbar rattles. It's very annoying and I took it off the wall mount thinking that was the reason but it does the same thing sitting on my entertainment center. Wizard of Oz on Blu-Ray is the worst with the soundbar. Rattles everytime Dorthy sings. So, my question(s), does the CT150 have any issues with rattling like I described? I've heard some complaints that the CT150 is not as loud as it could be. Has anyone encountered a problem with volume? Does the CT150 come with a mountable wall bracket? I will be using optical only on PS3 and Xbox but digital coax for Directv. Correct me if I'm wrong but by putting the PS3 in Bitstream Direct for Blu-Ray and DVD I find it sounds better than Linear PCM since it's not an actual 3.1 or 5.1 setup. Thanks in advance.
post #2047 of 2094
I don't recall anyone mentioning "rattling" with either of these soundbars. Some people have said the CT150 does not get loud enough; others think it's plenty loud. Guess your satisfaction will depend on the size of your room and personal preference.

If your three source devices have HDMI out, your best connections would be HDMI from each source to the soundbar and then a single HDMI from soundbar to TV. The soundbar can decode DD5.1 & DTS, so bitstream from the PS3 is a good choice.
post #2048 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Possumgirl View Post

I don't recall anyone mentioning "rattling" with either of these soundbars. Some people have said the CT150 does not get loud enough; others think it's plenty loud. Guess your satisfaction will depend on the size of your room and personal preference.

If your three source devices have HDMI out, your best connections would be HDMI from each source to the soundbar and then a single HDMI from soundbar to TV. The soundbar can decode DD5.1 & DTS, so bitstream from the PS3 is a good choice.

I only use the Bitstream because of my current soundbar having opitcal. Sounded terrible watching blu-ray movies with pcm over opitcal. If I get the CT150 I'll probably do as you said and just use HDMI with PCM. I'm torn between the CT150 or Klipsch HD Theater 600 and possibly Yamaha Receiver. I'm not great with audio stuff so my headache only gets worse sifting through the endless amounts of info on different setups (Soundbar/5.1 w/ Receiver). Thanks for the info.
post #2049 of 2094
Since routing my htpc thru soundbar my computer scrambles my icons everywhere over desktop..
Guess it has something to do with pass-thru, is there any way to stop it from happening?
post #2050 of 2094
The "Sound Field" selector on the Sony HT-CT 150 offers several choices including Standard, Movie, Drama and several others. I've tried the various fields for the different sources but, frankly, am not detecting a whole lot of difference among them. Just wondering if other owners of this unit make these changes or just stay with "Standard" for most viewing?
post #2051 of 2094
Trying to make my way through the 69 pages, but I was just curious if anyone was using this as their front/center channel speaker and then using seperate surrounds and what your thoughts were. I was hoping to put this on the wall under a samsung un55eh6000 tv and use the infinity surrounds that I currently have. Thoughts?
post #2052 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by irishiron View Post

Trying to make my way through the 69 pages, but I was just curious if anyone was using this as their front/center channel speaker and then using seperate surrounds and what your thoughts were. I was hoping to put this on the wall under a samsung un55eh6000 tv and use the infinity surrounds that I currently have. Thoughts?

If you already have surrounds, I assume you also have an AVR? If so, you should be looking at passive soundbars, not amplified ones. If you don't have an AVR, how do you expect to connect the surround speakers?
post #2053 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Possumgirl View Post

If you already have surrounds, I assume you also have an AVR? If so, you should be looking at passive soundbars, not amplified ones. If you don't have an AVR, how do you expect to connect the surround speakers?

Yup...duh. I should know better. Trying to decide between a sound bar and my 5.1. I really want the TV on the wall and have a nice clean setup.... But I'm a huge movie watcher so not sure a sound bar will do me justice.
post #2054 of 2094
So...trying to be a considerate neighbor. I am on the top floor of a condo complex. Neighbors below me complained when I first got my ct350 because of the vibrations when I'd watch action movies or play explosion heavy video games. So I guess the issue is more about the vibrations than being able to hear me. I've already bought one of those isolation foam sub-dude thingies. I think it helps a little and I always turn night mode on after 10PM.

Can someone explain these to me and are they applicable to my situation?

DRC Mode (off vs. standard vs. max)
Sub Channel Volume (what does this actually control how much bass is output? how is this different from the bass level)
post #2055 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by henhowc View Post

So...trying to be a considerate neighbor. I am on the top floor of a condo complex. Neighbors below me complained when I first got my ct350 because of the vibrations when I'd watch action movies or play explosion heavy video games. So I guess the issue is more about the vibrations than being able to hear me. I've already bought one of those isolation foam sub-dude thingies. I think it helps a little and I always turn night mode on after 10PM.

Can someone explain these to me and are they applicable to my situation?

DRC Mode (off vs. standard vs. max)
Sub Channel Volume (what does this actually control how much bass is output? how is this different from the bass level)

Dynamic range control essentially makes soft sounds louder and loud sounds softer, thereby compressing the volume range of the audio track. The max setting is the most aggressive, while off makes no modification to the audio track and presents the audio how it was intended.

The bass setting will increase the bass in all sounds, thereby making everything sound bassy, while the sub channel adjustment simply adjusts how strong the sub will sound.

If you want to be a good neighbor, set drc to max in order to keep sudden loud sounds such as explosions down, keep your bass and treble setting at 0 and set your sub channel to -4.
post #2056 of 2094
I have a Sony LCD that's compatible with ARC and the Sony S790 which have dual HDMI. With my equipment, is it possible to separate the audio and video using this sound bar? If so, How?

Thx
post #2057 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cortiz View Post

I have a Sony LCD that's compatible with ARC and the Sony S790 which have dual HDMI. With my equipment, is it possible to separate the audio and video using this sound bar? If so, How?

Thx

Why do you want to separate audio/video? The soundbar supports 3D pass through. If you really want to separate them you'd just connect the BDP the same way you would with any other external audio system that has HDMI.
post #2058 of 2094
I'm a video purist and would like to send the image signal directly to the TV instead using the soundbar receiver as a bridge. What's the best way of accomplishing this?

Thx
post #2059 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cortiz View Post

I'm a video purist and would like to send the image signal directly to the TV instead using the soundbar receiver as a bridge. What's the best way of accomplishing this?

Thx

Your BDP owner's manual probably covers this. Usually with a dual-output player, one HDMI is secondary and only handles audio. You'd connect that one to the soundbar and use whatever settings the manual says to make. Obviously you'll need to select the correct input on both TV and soundbar when using the player. Any other source devices you have can be connected however best suits your needs.
post #2060 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cortiz View Post

I'm a video purist and would like to send the image signal directly to the TV instead using the soundbar receiver as a bridge. What's the best way of accomplishing this?

Thx

I was always that way until I got my soundbar. Now, I go source>HDMI switch>soundbar>TV, all via HDMI. I notice no difference in picture quality. Save for a faulty cable or port, I would expect any perceived degradation to be because your mind is telling you that it should be worse.

All of that said, I believe that your BDP has 2 HDMI outputs for exactly what you are trying to accomplish.
post #2061 of 2094
I assume both the video and audio in HDMI is all digital, and you get no loss of quality through different routing paths.
post #2062 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Burger View Post

I assume both the video and audio in HDMI is all digital, and you get no loss of quality through different routing paths.

As do I. That said, HDMI is very moody. More connections means that there is more chance for something to go wrong in the chain.
post #2063 of 2094
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Edited by Richard Burger - 4/23/13 at 3:05pm
post #2064 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

Dynamic range control essentially makes soft sounds louder and loud sounds softer, thereby compressing the volume range of the audio track. The max setting is the most aggressive, while off makes no modification to the audio track and presents the audio how it was intended.

The bass setting will increase the bass in all sounds, thereby making everything sound bassy, while the sub channel adjustment simply adjusts how strong the sub will sound.

If you want to be a good neighbor, set drc to max in order to keep sudden loud sounds such as explosions down, keep your bass and treble setting at 0 and set your sub channel to -4.

Thanks for the descriptions. Ended up leaving DRC at Standard instead of Max. Setting to Max made background music in games almost inaudible in the volume settings I llke to use. Setting nightmode and turning down the sub volume seems to have done enough to quell any complaints. That or the neighbor just got used to it and gave up. LOL.
post #2065 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by henhowc View Post

Thanks for the descriptions. Ended up leaving DRC at Standard instead of Max. Setting to Max made background music in games almost inaudible in the volume settings I llke to use. Setting nightmode and turning down the sub volume seems to have done enough to quell any complaints. That or the neighbor just got used to it and gave up. LOL.

Yeah, the sub on thing is pretty loud compared to the bar, which is why i have mine at -3 or -4. Glad you found your ideal settings.
post #2066 of 2094
So I just found this thread since I just ordered a HT-CT150. If someone can advise, what will be my best chain for connecting my devices up. (I don't have many)

Display device: P50S60 plasma TV which has 2 HDMI one being ARC on HDMI2 (plan to use the streaming Amazon service built into the TV)
display sources: HTPC through HDMI of my AMD graphics card (it's a Sapphire HD7870 card), set-top cable box through HDMI, and if not too much trouble OTA TV through it's built in tuner/antenna

The way I'm seeing it, I will connect the HTPC + the cable box through HDMI to the HT-CT150's inputs, and then connect the video output HDMI to the ARC HDMI on my TV. Is this pretty much it, or should I also use the optical output on my TV to the HT-CT150 to get the streaming audio to work from the TV itself?

This will be my first soundbar and it seems pretty daunting. Especially for someone like myself who is more of a videophile (I calibrate displays as a hobby and have a spectrometer + colorimeter combo which I use) and have never even had a receiver. Thanks for any advise/help! biggrin.gif

Edit: Thanks Possumgirl for the response! anxious to get this puppy in next week and give it a go. smile.gif
Edited by fairchild99 - 6/14/13 at 11:27am
post #2067 of 2094
^^^
Your planned connection scheme should work just fine. On the soundbar you'll need to enable the ARC setting and, of course, you need to have Viera Link in use. Also on the TV, set to external speakers for audio. You shouldn't need to use optical at all unless you don't like have HDMI-CTL (CEC) turned on.
post #2068 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

The way I'm seeing it, I will connect the HTPC + the cable box through HDMI to the HT-CT150's inputs, and then connect the video output HDMI to the ARC HDMI on my TV. Is this pretty much it, or should I also use the optical output on my TV to the HT-CT150 to get the streaming audio to work from the TV itself?

This should be the best way to go (no optical cable needed, as pointed out), but I ran into a problem. My motorola DVR kept losing its configuration when connected through the soundbar. Most annoying, standard definition TV would periodically switch to stretch-o-vision from my preferred black-bars-on-sides with proper aspect ratio.

(The problem is a bug in the Motorola DCX3501 DVR, which doesn't do HDMI properly. Bug can be fixed with firmware update, but no cooperation from my cable company, Charter.)

Anyway, you will probably be fine connecting the cable box through soundbar. But if you experience funny business, try connecting cable box directly to non-ARC HDMI port on TV.

BTW, I connected the same soundbar and TV that you have, and all the default settings worked fine, I didn't have to set anything.
Edited by Richard Burger - 6/15/13 at 12:52pm
post #2069 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Burger View Post

BTW, I connected the same soundbar and TV that you have, and all the default settings worked fine, I didn't have to set anything.

Sweet, I'll hit you up if I run into any problems. smile.gif

I am anticipating some tweaking needing with the sound portion of my HTPC/media player chain to get the blu-ray audio working right. Like I am not sure if I'll need to use ReClock or some other audio renderer or what bitstream settings if any I'll need to setup to get working audio when playing my blu-rays through my HTPC.
post #2070 of 2094
Quick question if anybody can answer. When setting up the configuration in Windows sound section for my HTPC connection through it's HDMI, which is the correct speaker config? I have 2.0, 4.0, 5.1, and 7.1



My hunch is I select 7.1 and have the soundbar do it's thing and downmix? (since it says it supports 8 channels) Similairly I have selected 24-bit 48000hz for the bit depth and sample rate. And lastly, I'm guessing also that full-range speakers shouldn't be checked, since it has a sub and the sub will handle all the low frequencies? (I usually use full-range in windows sound properties when going from my sound-card to my headphones)

I tried searching and couldn't find anything.

BTW, the sound quality is excellent on my shiny new HT-CT150. Everything sounds great and loud and crisp. The subwoofer is even very powerful and sounds leagues better than my previous HTPC speakers. I popped in my Underworld Awakening disc and went to the scene where the giant lycan comes out, and it sounded amazing. This is even with my subwoofer placement being in a sub-optimal position since my HDMI cables aren't long enough to have the sub placed where I originally wanted.

Oh one more question I forgot to ask. I have my audio decoder software in my PC just outputting PCM and doing it's thing decoding and then I use WASAPI as the renderer to bypass the sound mixing that I mentioned above. Is this really the optimal setting or is bitstreaming the way to go? I ask because I read that bitstream should be used from the blu-ray player, but I think this is not right as the soundbar can only decode DTS and DD, but Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD cannot be decoded so bitstreaming wouldn't even work?
Edited by fairchild99 - 6/19/13 at 9:38am
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