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Sony HT-CT150 and CT350 - Page 70

post #2071 of 2094
5.1 PCM with no molestation from the PC and bitstream from the Blu (it will decode the high-bitrate core Dolby and DTS tracks) are the best ways to go as only the latest high-end Sony soundbars have the ability to decode the HD audio codecs. I'm going to replace my 150 with the new 660 in a bit and that sucker should be a beast compared to the 150.
post #2072 of 2094
Thanks for the response Lex. (although I don't have a dedicated blu-ray player, I have a blu-ray drive in my HTPC and do my blu-ray viewing through that) I am having another issue. From time to time when I power up my soundbar Windows doesn't detect the device properly in the sound settings and only sees it as 2.0 with only 48000hz 16-bit.

I can't seem to find the cause of this or how to work around it. I tried to first power on the soundbar, then the TV, and this usually ends up having the 2.0 channel and no 24-bit issue. (this causes issues such as bitstreaming and WASAPI failing which = no audio) Turning on the TV first then the soundbar also doesn't seem to do anything. It then properly sees the 8 channels and 48000hz 24-bit. Is this some bug affecting other users of the CT150 or is it only affecting me? I wonder if it's some bug with the drivers of the my videocard and it's HDMI interface or some bug with the sound-bar itself? (using a Sapphire 7870 OC PCI-E card) I also leave on my HTPC 24/7 so not sure what is causing this.

I've also tried rebooting the system and disabling the device in windows then re-enabling. Not sure what's going on and why the sound-bar can only be seen as a 2.0 channel system with 16-bit 48000hz, vs sometimes it sees it as an 8.0 channel system with 24-bit 48000hz.

I finally got it back to recognize the correct 8.0 channels and 24-bit 48000hz after several reboots of HTPC + reboots of the soundbar. Going to try to disable auto-standby but this is darn frustrating.
post #2073 of 2094
It is the nature of HDMI and digital handshakes. I don't have any solution for you but I'll ponder it and see if anything comes to mind. Perhaps toggling the inputs on the soundbar will help. I find that mine sometimes doesn't handshake properly with the Blu-Ray unless I toggle to another input and then switch back to the Blu input.
post #2074 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexInVA View Post

It is the nature of HDMI and digital handshakes. I don't have any solution for you but I'll ponder it and see if anything comes to mind. Perhaps toggling the inputs on the soundbar will help. I find that mine sometimes doesn't handshake properly with the Blu-Ray unless I toggle to another input and then switch back to the Blu input.

That sucks that this keeps happening. Everytime I put my TV to sleep for say 60m then I also put my soundbar to sleep for same 60m so that it's not on all night, next time I power them on, the issue returns and again the HTPC doesn't see the proper 8 channels + 24-bit/48000hz. Oi vei...
post #2075 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

When setting up the configuration in Windows sound section for my HTPC connection through it's HDMI, which is the correct speaker config? I have 2.0, 4.0, 5.1, and 7.1

Fairchild...

So how are you liking the 150? Did you get your problem solved, and what's your opinion of the sound quality?

I'm thinking about getting a soundbar for my gaming PC which is hooked up to a Sammy LCD via HDMI, mainly for improved sound. I'm reading mixed reports about the sound quality of the 150, so I'm not sure if it's worth the risk or no? confused.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexInVA View Post

I'm going to replace my 150 with the new 660 in a bit and that sucker should be a beast compared to the 150.

Lex - have you tried the 660 yet? Improved sound quality over the 150?
post #2076 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaverJ View Post

Fairchild...

So how are you liking the 150? Did you get your problem solved, and what's your opinion of the sound quality?

Once I figured out how to work-around the problem I have been pleased. (I basically had to disable the Control HDMI feature which in turn disables the ARC HDMI feature which means I have to use the digital optical cable from the TV to the soundbar) The sound is a definite improvement over my previous computer speakers and of course trumps the TV speakers. The bass from the subwoofer is at times too overpowering for me, since I'm in a small room and I think I don't have an optimal placement for the sub.

So my connections are as follows:

HDMI output HTPC/7870 ATI ---> HDMI input CT150 ---> HDMI output CT150 --> HDMI input P50S60 plasma
Digital Audio output (Optical) P50S60 plasma ---> CT150 Digital Audio input (Optical)
HDMI output SB4250HD cable box ---> HDMI input P50S60 plasma
Digital Audio output (Optical) SB4250HD cable box ---> Digital Audio input (Optical) CT150

This setup also passes through the audio from the TV's built-in streaming apps of which I only use Amazon streaming and very rarely Youtube. This setup though doesn't allow bitstreaming of 5.1 audio from the cable box since there is some bug where if it's connected through HDMI then the optical audio output doesn't output more than 2.0
post #2077 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

This setup though doesn't allow bitstreaming of 5.1 audio from the cable box since there is some bug where if it's connected through HDMI then the optical audio output doesn't output more than 2.0

Good that you got your problem resolved by turning off HDMI-CTL.

It is not a bug causing the TV to output 2.0 from connected devices. That is by design and is true for most all HDTVs. I'm wondering though why didn't you connect the cable box directly to the CT150? Then you wouldn't need optical from the cable box. You'd only need the one optical from the TV for your streaming apps.
post #2078 of 2094
So I'm on the fence between the Sony 150, 260 and the 550w to replace sound coming my TV speakers.

Source: PC via HDMI for games only
TV: Samsung LN46A650 46-Inch 1080p on a stand
Room size: small
Seating distance: close (4-5 feet)
Priority: sound quality, simple to operate

I'm looking for better sound for my PC games, mainly adding a subwoofer. I would love it if my TV remote would control the volume of the soundbar, or the soundbar remote could turn on and off the TV. I'm only using one HDMI input, the PC, so I'm not too concerned about switching inputs, but this might change when the PS4 and Xbox One consoles are released later this year. The wires/wireless or extra component of the 550w isn't a problem, and I probably wouldn't use Bluetooth, and don't need Dolby TrueHD and dts HD. Cost isn't too much a factor.

Does anyone have any opinions as to the best sounding, reasonably affordable (under $500) soundbar for my situation? Thanks in advance!

===

EDIT: I just saw the 260 doesn't have HDMI in, so I might rule that one out unless the optical cable from the TV to the soundbar is no problem and the 260 sounds better than the 150? confused.gif
Edited by DaverJ - 7/2/13 at 6:55am
post #2079 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Possumgirl View Post

Good that you got your problem resolved by turning off HDMI-CTL.

It is not a bug causing the TV to output 2.0 from connected devices. That is by design and is true for most all HDTVs. I'm wondering though why didn't you connect the cable box directly to the CT150? Then you wouldn't need optical from the cable box. You'd only need the one optical from the TV for your streaming apps.

Well because I needed to set the TV's RGB expected input different. My HTPC outputs 0-255 and thus my TV should be set to expect 0-255, while the Cable box outputs 16-235 so the TV should be set to expect 16-235 or else I get a washed out image. If I route both through the soundbar, one of them will be off. I could just set the HTPC to output 16-235 and be done with it, but I wanted max image quality for my blu-rays which is what I use the HTPC for. Maybe I'll change it back again at some point. wink.gif
post #2080 of 2094
I went back to just setting my HTPC/video card to output RGB Limited (16-235). This way both the Cable box and the HTPC will have the same levels and as a result can now get better quality audio out of the cable box since now it sees the HDMI signal through the soundbar and decodes the dolby digital streams. My setup is now as such:

HDMI output HTPC/7870 ATI and SB4250HD cable box ---> HDMI inputs CT150 ---> HDMI output CT150 --> HDMI input P50S60 plasma
Digital Audio output (Optical) P50S60 plasma ---> CT150 Digital Audio input (Optical)

This also saves me from having to constantly swapping to my TV remote to change the inputs on the TV.
post #2081 of 2094
I have a question regarding the different modes. I was reading that some other Sony soundbars, it is recommended to set it to the 2ch stereo mode even when watching blu-ray movies with surround sound etc, as it reduces the spatializing feature and makes the sound not as full sounding.

Is this recommended on the HT-CT150 as well or should I just stick to the Standard preset? I don't really care about having any supposed 5.1 virtualization and would be happy with the best sound possible. I'm just concerned that setting it to 2ch stereo mode would reduce the bass of a 5.1 or 7.1 channel movie or as a result of the 2ch stereo mode, the center channel won't be correctly engaged?
post #2082 of 2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

I have a question regarding the different modes. I was reading that some other Sony soundbars, it is recommended to set it to the 2ch stereo mode even when watching blu-ray movies with surround sound etc, as it reduces the spatializing feature and makes the sound not as full sounding.

Is this recommended on the HT-CT150 as well or should I just stick to the Standard preset? I don't really care about having any supposed 5.1 virtualization and would be happy with the best sound possible. I'm just concerned that setting it to 2ch stereo mode would reduce the bass of a 5.1 or 7.1 channel movie or as a result of the 2ch stereo mode, the center channel won't be correctly engaged?

How something sounds is completely subjective. I would just play around with the settings until you find something that sounds good to you.
post #2083 of 2094
Hi All,

I know this topic hasnt been posted in a while but I hope someone can help me.

I have the CT-HT500 and noticed that when im watching something in 5.1 no sound is coming out of the center channel. But say when a commercial comes on thats 2.0 the center channel works fine.

Is the center channel supposed to work in 5.1 mode? Or?
post #2084 of 2094
I posted the following in the main Soundbar thread but didn't have a luck. So I'll try here.

I have a Sony CT-150 sound bar hooked up to a Mac Mini via an optical (Toslink) cable and to an Apple TV 2 via HDMI. When I play a movie with AC3 or DTS tracks, passthrough works and the Dolby Digital or DTS light on the sound bar comes on. But when I play a stereo MP3 or a video with a 2-channel Dolby Prologic II track, the LPCM indicator on the sound bar turns on along with the Dolby Prologic II light.

According to the sound bar manual, 2-channel audio (Dolby Prologic II, etc) is supported natively by Sony CT-150. So why is the LPCM light coming on? That suggests that the audio is being "read" as LPCM and then converted to 2-channel Dolby Prologic II. Shouldn't only the Dolby Prologic II light come on if the sound bar is playing a video with a DPLII track?

I'm just confused why it always displays LPCM whenever it plays *any* 2-channel audio track, regardless of the container (MKV, MP4, AVI, MP3, AAC), source (Netflix, XBMC, Plex, iTunes, Quicktime, VLC), or connection type (HDMI or Toslink).

I misunderstanding something about LPCM and the way sound bars deal with stereo tracks?
post #2085 of 2094
This behavior is normal. The soundbar is receiving a LPCM audio signal and processing it using the Dolby ProLogic II algorithm, so both indicators will light up on the soundbar's display. You can check how many channels of LPCM audio the unit is receiving by pressing the DISPLAY button on the remote (the CT-150 can handle up to 7.1 channels of LPCM audio, if I recall correctly). If it were to receive a 2.1 channel Dolby Digital signal, only the DD indicator would light up, but usually you'll only get that kind of audio output from a digital cable box tuned to a non-HD channel.
post #2086 of 2094
Rudy,

Thanks for the response. Good to know it's normal behavior. I was puzzled why the LPCM light only came on when playing 2-channel audio. With DTS and AC3 audio, only the DTS or DD (Dolby Digital) light comes on. It seemed inconsistent to me.
post #2087 of 2094

I'm glad to see people still use the CT-150!

 

I've had mine for a few years using the HDMI inputs on the subwoofer and have been very happy with the sound.  I used a PS3, Apple TV and Cable Box.  Once in a while I would have lip sync issues but toggling "sync A/V on and off" using helped it catch up.  (This was on my Samsung Plasma too).  Since I've been using my new PS4 (HDMI to TV, TOSLINK to Sony, HDMI TO SONY, etc.) the lip sync has been terrible with blu rays.  I've set the gaming and BR to Bitsream so the sony does decoding.

 

I've resorted to going directly into the TV then using ARC to the CT-150.  The lip sync is perfect but the sound quality just doesn't seem up to snuff, not as "full" as it was when having a signal fromt he PS4 or any other device go directly into the CT150.  Another thing I don't like is when using ARC with my Vizio M55xxxxx the television volume bar comes up everytime I change the volume on the CT150.  

 

I'm thinking I might just splurge and get the Vizio 5.1 bar - I assume it'll work good with my TV and it looks real nice in addition to :)

post #2088 of 2094

I have just hooked up a Roku3 to my Sony ht-ct150 and then to the Sonya Bravia Flatscreen, by connecting Roku to the hdmi port labeled DVD, and selecting that as the HT  input.  My feed is currently MGO, but the sound and picture are both working.  I know this is three years after the post, but it is the only thing that came up when searching for Sony and Roku, so I thought I would toss in my $.02

post #2089 of 2094

Sorry if I missed this before but I just started having a problem with my CT150 restarting my xbox 360 when a different input is selected or if the CT150 is turned off.

 

I have my Sharp Aquos connected through HDMI and optical. Sony Blue Ray through the HDMI to DVD input and my Xbox 360 into the BD input with HDMI as well. My Verizon Fios through SAT/CATV with HDMI. Everything is plugged into a surge protector that is new if that matters.

 

When I switch to watch TV from playing Xbox and go back it automatically restarts my Xbox. Same thing when the CT150 is turned off while playing (which is a problem since I recently got cats and they accidentally hit the buttons some times. Which I do not understand because the only thing connecting my Xbox to my CT150 is the HDMI cord so why is it restarting?

 

I swear this was never a problem before. I did just recently move but I feel I have this set up the same as before and I used to switch from TV to Xbox and it would leave my Xbox as is.

 

Is it my CT150 or possibly my Xbox? Any fixes? 

post #2090 of 2094
I would suggest you start by making sure HDMI CEC is disabled on the CT150. Look under MENU/HDMI Control.
post #2091 of 2094
Is there a way to make the remote better on the ct150? I have to point at it directly to change the volume and other settings. Turning it on and off works if I aim from the side though, weird.
post #2092 of 2094
The only thing that may make a difference is new and better batteries. Go with one of the ultra types. If this doesn't work, that is the best you will be able to do.

One other thing that would work is to get a better remote like the Logitech Harmony. I have used Harmony remotes for better than eight years and they have a broader IR dispersion pattern than any of the original equipment remotes in my box.
post #2093 of 2094
I'm already using a Harmony.
post #2094 of 2094
My Harmony died tonight. Two years. My first Harmony lasted over five.

Oh well. A visit to Amazon for a replacement.
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