Official Logitech Harmony 650/600 remote thread - Page 6

I tried that with my 650 (bought it about a week or two ago), and it didn't work. It rearranged the activities once, but then further rearrangements and remote updates had no effect.

On another somewhat disturbing note, I'm a little nonplussed at what happened tonight with my 650. My wife was watching TV and knocked the remote from the couch by accident; it dropped from a height of maybe two feet, three feet max. Not a huge drop; just the type of normal drop that happens occasionally to remotes.

Well, the remote didn't work after she picked it up. I looked at it, and one of the battery contacts inside the battery compartment was completely bent, making the battery too loose to fit snugly in the compartment--I turned the remote over and the battery dropped out. Upon closer inspection, I saw why the battery contact had bent on the slight impact: rather than being a coiled spring design like the vast majority of battery contacts, the contacts are a clip design that is INCREDIBLY flexible and all-too-easy to bend out of shape. In fact, I daresay that if you gave the remote a good vigorous shaking, you might succeed in bending the contacts enough to lose battery contact.

I was able to bend the contact back into place with a pen tip (too easily) to fix it, but this was a discouraging find, considering the $100 paid for this remote. I'm not at all optimistic that this remote's design will hold up against the normal wear and tear of a living room remote for very long. How does anyone with little kids possibly use one of these for more than a month or two?

it's working but selected activities to top one click activities buttons are always latest, check this tutorial
http://www.shinyhacks.com/2010/09/ho...-logitech.html

Check out my post on the previous page. Logitech acknowledges that this is a known issue. If you call Logitech and mention this problem, tell them that you want a replacement, but NOT a 650. They will upgrade you to a 700. Same basic design, but doesn't suffer from the same issues.

I just replaced my Harmony 670 with a 650. I kinda like the motion detector back light but was wondering how this will affect battery life. I record virtually everything and skip commercials so I tend to hold onto the remote bringing the back light on quite a lot. How often are you guys replacing batteries in the 650? Maybe I should have gotten a 700.

Is there some reason the 700 would be better for battery life?

I thought that one was rechargeable. Maybe not.

The 700 does have a rechargeable battery.

When I found out the 700 doesn't function as a remote while charging I decided that was not a useful feature for me. I use my own rechargeable batteries in the 650 and swap them out when they need charging so I can continue to use the remote.

I do the same thing. Works great for me.

I recently bought the 650 during Best Buy's Black Friday sale for $50. Great deal and I'm loving this remote. Wife likes it too which is a great bonus.

+1

I have recently replaced on of our Harmony 670 remotes (a great remote which suffered through drops to the floor, grandchildren of all ages and much use) with the Harmony 650.

However, the "activity buttons" on the 650 are not back lighted and the buttons that are back lit are very dim as compared to the old 670.

Which recent Harmony remotes (if any) have decent or better back lighting then the 650?

Thanks and regards,

Great question... I am going to check out the One thread and get a feel for how the owners feel about it.
RA

Hello all and happy New Year. I'm new to the universal remote world and just purchased a 650. It took a little while to set everything up but I'm loving it.
I have a question though, and if this has been asked I do apologize. In the Watch TV activity I have a majority of the remotes buttons linked to my Fios remote since that is what I normally use. There are times when I might want to access my TV's menu, so I set up a button the LCD screen to link th my TV menu.
The regular harmony remote buttons still link to the DVR remote. So if I click OK it goes to the DVR/Fios box menu.
Is there anyway I can set up something where if I click on the TV Menu button that I created that I can then assign the OK button and other buttons to the TV remote?

No. If you need to get to TV Menu press Devices and select your TV. When completed go back to the Current Activity.

Hey everyone, I've got a quick question. I am close to buying a used 650 on ebay that does not come with the usb cord to connect it to the computer. Does the 650 use the same cord that my older Harmony 720 uses, a standard mini-USB cord? Thanks.

The 650 uses a micro connector.

Thanks for the quick reply! I have one of those laying around already. I will be joining the 650 club soon then.

Out of curiosity what else uses the micro connector? I had only seen the mini USB connector before I bought my 650. My old 880 used a mini

Various cell phones use them to connect to a computer and I the new apple tv uses has a micro port on the back.

Does anyone know if you can save battery life on the 650 by taking the batteries out when not home? In other words, is the remote still "on" when not in use or is it on only when you pick it up (when screen comes on) and use it? It seems as though the battery life wasn't as long as expected.

There will be a small draw even when it is in quite mode. If you were away from home for many days it would save some battery life.

This is really more of a rant than anything but maybe somebody has a work around before I return my new Harmony 650.

When I counted the devices that would be controlled by the new 650 I came up with five (5) (TV, Cable Box, Blu-Ray player, A/V Receiver and an HD-DVD player) that actually receive a signal from the remote. So the 650 should work right?

What I didn't figure is the 650 counts my external amp as a device even though it is controlled by "Zone 2" of my A/V Receiver (cable attached via 12V trigger). When I turn on my A/V Receiver, it automatically turns on my amp. No signal from the remote is sent to the amp, it doesn't even have a remote sensor.

So there you have it, I can't use my current setup unless I upgrade and spend another $100 on a Harmony 700 (I purchased the 650 at Best Buy for $50 on Black Friday).

Anybody have any ideas other than what Logitech (Harmony) tech support suggested (delete one device)?

Thanks in advance...

Is there some reason you don't want to delete the amp as a device?

The amp shows up as a device (Zone 2 on the A/V Rec), if I delete it, the A/V Rec won't be able to switch the amp off and on via the 12V trigger.

The amp technically is not configurable on its' own, no remote sensor. The amp only has an on/off/standby button and an input to accept the 12V trigger from the A/V Rec.

My beef is that Logitech is counting my A/V Rec. as two (2) devices when all it is doing is switching a 12V trigger. similar to switching an input after the A/V Rec is turned on.

Just bought a 650 to replace my drop proof 670. Feels a bit more fragile. I already have a one for my main room, so configuring was a snap. My only question.. is there any way to get activity 3 to show on the main screen? I don't want to scroll every time even though I can just press the hard button. Kind of an annoyance factor. Thanks for a response.
I was waiting for Amazon to restock this. I strolled in a BB just to kill some time & they had these for $69 new. No brainer, even though I think they are replacing this model.

Logitech apparently does the same thing with satellite radio through an avr. Just ridiculous. Set my parents up with a Denon 2310 that has the appropriate connections to run Sirius Satellite radio. You just hook in the special satellite radio connections to the avr and the avr controls the radio stations, basically just like am/fm stations. But logitech considers that another component with the 650 and therefore it takes up one of the 5 spots. Huh.

Is the trigger function available as a command in the A/V Rec device?

Not unless you make a new activity with a different name that's not assigned to a button.

Ohio,

You can learn the few commands you need for your amp to another existing device and manually add certain ones to the start/end of your activities. Although I don't understand how a device with no IR control factors into anything.

I agree that it does suck how logitech has artificially limited device count to force you into a more expensive model. Older models, like the 550 can do many more devices. That's why I still use my harmony 360 most of the time (12 devices).

Yes, the command switches "Zone 2" (a.k.a. "12V trigger" if "Zone 2" isn't being used) on and off, but the 650 setup list "Zone 2" as a seperate device.