AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Visually discreet sub recommendation and placement...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Visually discreet sub recommendation and placement...

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 
OK, here is my setup. I have an approximately 12.5' x 17' room with tall ceilings (~10'). In the picture below, seating is in red and existing speakers are in green. My front speakers are on the floor (Monitor Audio 9i mains, 12i center) and my rear speakers (MA 3i's) are wall mounted at about 9' tall. Everything is powered by an Arcam surround receiver that excels with 2-channel audio as well (my first love). And before anyone asks... the space behind and next to "Chair 1" is already taken up by a floor lamp and a side table. I might be able to fit a small cube under the table but I can't put a cylinder back there.



First of all, I realize that none of my gear is optimally placed (fronts should be pulled out further from the wall, rears should be lowered, etc...), but this is a dual use room so compromises are required -- and I've made my peace with that. We don't have room for a dedicated theater room, so when the projector screen is up we want it to look and feel cozy for hanging out/conversation... not an arc of seats around a giant tv! So far I think we are doing quite well, but I'm hoping to add a small, musical subwoofer. As far as I understand I really only have two options:

A) Bass cube (10-13" cube or there abouts) somewhere between the mains, near the center channel.

B) Base cylinder (12"x48") behind the door in the upper right corner... basically behind "chair 2".

It is my understand that the base cylinders will produce much better/bigger bass so that is what I'm leaning towards. However, that door coming into the room stays open 99 times out of 100 (in fact it is propped open using a magnetic door stop). So if placed there, it would basically live permanently behind the open door. I know you aren't supposed to be able to tell where the bass is coming from anyway, but I didn't know if placing it behind the door would badly hurt the acoustics (keeping in mind my already compromised setup).

Please also keep in mind that I live in a 1912 house and everything creaks and rattles (floors, doors, window panes, etc...). I don't need or want boomy base as I'd worry about my house falling down (or at least sounding like it was going to)! I prefer subtle, tight, musical bass. While I cherish the opportunities that I get to do some 2-channel music listening, I do end up watching movies more often. I'd like something that works well with both, but on the scale of things, I would prefer great-music/good-movies over great-movies/good-music -- if that makes any sense.

Finally, I'm a firm believer in the value of 2nd hand hi-fi. My budget is about $500 but I'm hoping I can find something that MSRP'd for more originally.

Any ideas?

Maybe a SVS or HSU cylinder? If so what models do you think would fit my room and wouldn't be compromised by the door?

Or maybe a bass cube is my only option -- Sunfire, DA supercube, Velodyne MiniVee (8" too smal?)? Any recommendations on placement... between mains? Between "chair 1" and "couch"?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
post #2 of 32
You could pull out the couch some and lay a bass cylinder on its side behind it. That would hide it and would make the couch the best seat in the house maybe.

Here is a used one
post #3 of 32
I was in similar situation as you except i had placement options.. i did want a musical, clear, tight sub and did not care so much about spl as i live in a condo i cannot run it super loud anyway.

I did my research and ended up getting the Rythmik F12. I am using an Arcam reciever also and i am very happy with it.

Sizing wise it maybe too big for you but its something you should look into perhaps give brian a call and see if its something that will work for you... do some searches on different brands that get recommended and go from there...

My short list was Epik Empire, Paradigm Sub 12 or 15, HSU uls15 and Rythmik... I ended up with rythmik as it's selling feature is Sound Quality.
post #4 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

You could pull out the couch some and lay a bass cylinder on its side behind it. That would hide it and would make the couch the best seat in the house maybe.

Here is a used one

Thanks for the idea! However, I'm not sure it would fit as I don't have my whole layout in the mock-up. Chair 1 and the couch share a huge ottoman/coffee table and each of the chairs between the mains also have ottomans. Unfortunately, I don't think I can push the two sides of the room any closer together...
post #5 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjohnst View Post

Thanks for the idea! However, I'm not sure it would fit as I don't have my whole layout in the mock-up. Chair 1 and the couch share a huge ottoman/coffee table and each of the chairs between the mains also have ottomans. Unfortunately, I don't think I can push the two sides of the room any closer together...

OK get rid of the extra furniture. Bass is all that matters right? lol
post #6 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by porksoda View Post

I was in similar situation as you except i had placement options.. i did want a musical, clear, tight sub and did not care so much about spl as i live in a condo i cannot run it super loud anyway.

I did my research and ended up getting the Rythmik F12. I am using an Arcam reciever also and i am very happy with it.

Sizing wise it maybe too big for you but its something you should look into perhaps give brian a call and see if its something that will work for you... do some searches on different brands that get recommended and go from there...

My short list was Epik Empire, Paradigm Sub 12 or 15, HSU uls15 and Rythmik... I ended up with rythmik as it's selling feature is Sound Quality.

I'll have to see how big of a cube I can fit between the mains. It is pretty tight in there with the chairs and all. Thanks for the short list... that gives me a few more to check on as well.

Anyone know about sound quality issues with mounting a cylinder behind the door? Should I rule that out entirely and focus on a bass cube? Thanks again!
post #7 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

OK get rid of the extra furniture. Bass is all that matters right? lol

Actually, there is yet another small chair sitting kind of in front of the equipment closet that is not pictured either. We have 5 chairs and a couch in that room... I will say it is a blast with guests as I'm a huge fan of entertaining!
post #8 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjohnst View Post

..However, that door coming into the room stays open 99 times out of 100 (in fact it is propped open using a magnetic door stop). So if placed there, it would basically live permanently behind the open door.

If the door stays open most of the time, remove it and put the sub there... it seems to be an ideal place. If you remove it and do not like the looks, then simply frame it in and finish it... easy to do with 1x6 lumber and moulding... paint it and it looks like it was there forever.
post #9 of 32
I think a lot of people here have similar issues (HT setups in non-dedicated rooms that we want to keep aesthetically pleasing). Depending on the size of the side table, why not replace it with a similar-sized sub? You can either put a new lamp on top of it, or simply move over the existing floor lamp to the space between chair 2 and the fireplace.
post #10 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank45 View Post

If the door stays open most of the time, remove it and put the sub there... it seems to be an ideal place.

Now that is a damn interesting idea... I hadn't thought of that. It would be nice to be able to close the door between our theater and the rest of the house though...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank45 View Post

If you remove it and do not like the looks, then simply frame it in and finish it... easy to do with 1x6 lumber and moulding... paint it and it looks like it was there forever.

I'm not sure I follow you... are you suggesting to seal the doorway? If so that is unfortunately not possible as that is the only connection with the rest of the house. The 5 foot double door on the left side of the mock-up goes outside.
post #11 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BACONlover View Post

I think a lot of people here have similar issues (HT setups in non-dedicated rooms that we want to keep aesthetically pleasing). Depending on the size of the side table, why not replace it with a similar-sized sub? You can either put a new lamp on top of it, or simply move over the existing floor lamp to the space between chair 2 and the fireplace.

A sidetable/sub combo may work. Anything particular subs might suggest in that size (tall, rectangular-ish I would guess)?

As for moving the floor lamp... that isn't as easy as it sounds! Sorry, I don't mean to shoot down everyone's ideas but there are so many things going on that aren't pictured for you all. The floor lamp is in the corner as it doesn't block any of the walls there... which are filled full of vintage movie posters. They were painstakingly placed over a period of months so it would be a big deal to all of a sudden put something tall in front of them.

I know this is a pain to think about... which is why I've been putting it off so long! The bass from my 9i's is not too bad after loading the bottom chambers with lead shot.
post #12 of 32
No, not seal it off, the door frame should be about 6-inches wide. Use 6x1 boards mitered at 45 degrees at the top two corners so you get a nice fit. The boards will go over where the door striker plate is and where the hinges screw in. Cut new moulding to frame around it. Wood putty the joints and paint. Total cost - maybe 30 bucks. You end up with an open doorway that has a nice, finished look to it. If you want the option of closing the door, then don't do the above but simply remove and store it and put it back up when you want a door.
post #13 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank45 View Post

No, not seal it off, the door frame should be about 6-inches wide. Use 6x1 boards mitered at 45 degrees at the top two corners so you get a nice fit. The boards will go over where the door striker plate is and where the hinges screw in. Cut new moulding to frame around it. Wood putty the joints and paint. Total cost - maybe 30 bucks. You end up with an open doorway that has a nice, finished look to it. If you want the option of closing the door, then don't do the above but simply remove and store it and put it back up when you want a door.

I got you now. Thanks for the clarification.

I just thought of one other issue with removing the door... I have a front projection setup. It has already been a pain in the butt "light-proofing" my theater room. Now I would basically have to do the same thing with my entry-way/open stairwell which is what is on the other side of the door.
post #14 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjohnst View Post

I got you now. Thanks for the clarification.

I just thought of one other issue with removing the door... I have a front projection setup. It has already been a pain in the butt "light-proofing" my theater room. Now I would basically have to do the same thing with my entry-way/open stairwell which is what is on the other side of the door.

So John which is it? Do you leave the door open or close it?

Quote:


However, that door coming into the room stays open 99 times out of 100
post #15 of 32
You could hang a dark curtain across it. You had earlier said that the door stays open most of the time - does that include when you are watching TV? As always... make sure you clear any structural changes to the house with your wife or significant other... While it is easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission, sometimes the consequences are not worth the great ideas we think we have
post #16 of 32
Thread Starter 
The door does stay open way, WAY more often than not. However, it is nice to have the option to close it. I rarely have light problems at night, but on the rare chance I get to watch some weekend basketball or an afternoon movie the door has to be shut otherwise the picture is washed out.

I know... there are complications abound with my setup!

P.S. I can tell you right now that a curtain instead of a door would not fly with my wife!
post #17 of 32
I was just kidding with you. No setup is to complicated. What about a subwoofer placed underneath the center channel?
post #18 of 32
How about a table tuba?
post #19 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

I was just kidding with you. No setup is to complicated. What about a subwoofer placed underneath the center channel?

That would raise the center channel too high causing the screen to block it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrager View Post

How about a table tuba?

Nope, our ottoman/coffee table is matched with Chair 1 and the couch.
post #20 of 32
Allrighttty then.

I do not think the open door would cause any issue if you decided to put a cylinder behind it. It might shake the door but the bass shouldn't be affected by that placement.

Good luck
post #21 of 32
Thread Starter 
Are there any cylinders that are known for being particularly musical? I know subtlety is not usually their strong point!
post #22 of 32
None that I know of. I have not heard one personally but I have read the same thing about there brute force.

There is however talk on the Hsu forum that they are thinking of bringing back their cylinder sub. But that is probably a ways off.
post #23 of 32
Install a pocket door, they slide from side to side on rails & when open are inside the wall & totally out of the way
post #24 of 32
Thread Starter 
Enough is enough... there will be no more remodeling of my house!

Anyway, it looks like cylinder sub is out anyway. I just got home and measured and I can only fit about a 12-13" diameter tube in the corner and still open the door. The smallest SVS is 16".

The good news is that if I remove the end table, I can fit a small sub about 15" wide x16" deep x ??? tall sub in the space between the chair and the couch. That means an SVS SB12-Plus will fit and the Rythmik F12 might also just slip into that space. If those will fit, should I even bother looking at anything smaller (DA supercube, Velo MiniVee, a used Sunfire, etc...)? Anything else you would add to that short list? Thanks again!
post #25 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjohnst View Post

enough is enough... There will be no more remodeling of my house!

anyway, it looks like cylinder sub is out anyway. I just got home and measured and i can only fit about a 12-13" diameter tube in the corner and still open the door. The smallest svs is 16".

The good news is that if i remove the end table, i can fit a small sub about 15" wide x16" deep x ??? Tall sub in the space between the chair and the couch. That means an svs sb12-plus will fit and the rythmik f12 might also just slip into that space. If those will fit, should i even bother looking at anything smaller (da supercube, velo minivee, a used sunfire, etc...)? Anything else you would add to that short list? Thanks again!

no
post #26 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjohnst View Post

Enough is enough... there will be no more remodeling of my house!

Anyway, it looks like cylinder sub is out anyway. I just got home and measured and I can only fit about a 12-13" diameter tube in the corner and still open the door. The smallest SVS is 16".

The good news is that if I remove the end table, I can fit a small sub about 15" wide x16" deep x ??? tall sub in the space between the chair and the couch. That means an SVS SB12-Plus will fit and the Rythmik F12 might also just slip into that space. If those will fit, should I even bother looking at anything smaller (DA supercube, Velo MiniVee, a used Sunfire, etc...)? Anything else you would add to that short list? Thanks again!

I have used both svs sb12 plus and rythmik f12 side by side. svs sb12 is good but rythmik is in a league of its own in terms of sound quality i would be comparing the much more expensive paradigm with the rythmik.

Supercube is good as well i did not try it at home but it does not go as low and it was not as fast as the rythmik but is comparable to the svs sb12plus. Even then if it was between the def tech and svs i would buy the svs.

I have also had a rel stadium and i think rythmik is a lot better... i unfortunately have no experience with velodyne subs to a point where i can comment.

Sunfire has some cube subs and i heard them compared to the paradigm in store and the paradigm was a lot better... my logic the rythmik and paradigm probably would wrestle and rythmik is half the cost so for me the rythmik is what i ordered.

If sound quality is what you are after i think rythmik is something i strongly recommend as i spent the last 4ish months looking for a sub and short of spending 2+k rythmik was it for me. They also have a 30 day guarantee and if you don't like it you can ship it back. To my surprise rythmik build quality is top notch and the black oak finish that i got was very very good. It's waf approved and i was allowed to move it from a corner to a better listening position. (Look for some pics in the rythmik thread)

When you do decide on whichever sub you want and if its rythmik make sure to call brian and tell him what you are looking for and see what he recommends. One thing that is a downside of the rythmik is does not play ear deafening levels as some folks like to play it at. I do not have that luxury so i am ok, but if you want to play at loud loud volumes i would second epik empire as a second choice and its dual design well let you use it as a table without things moving off of it. SVS's discontinued sb12 plus as a third.
post #27 of 32
Thread Starter 
Couple follow-up questions:

1) Who is Brian? I assume someone who works at Rythmik?

2) To fit the Rythmik F12 in that space (or any sub that size), it would need to be pushed up against the corner round molding on the wall. That would put the cabinet about 1-1.5" from the wall with the two opposite corners more or less touching the couch and chair. How badly will that hurt the sound? Also, what kind of impact will it be? I can handle impacts to volume and maybe even some minor loss of fidelity, but if that will make it boomy or bloated it probably won't work for me.

3) Any recommendations (or links discussing the pros/cons) as to how I should hook this up to work with both music and movies? My AVR has an LFE output, but I can also access wiring through the floor to put this in line with my mains if that is the preferred method.

Thanks again for all the help!
post #28 of 32
Brian is the owner/designer/builder of all things Rythmik. Go to the Official Rythmik thread in this subwoofer forum and you will see many posts from him. I own an F-15 and ran a 35ft cable to it - sounds great. You also have options to wireless connect and there are a few setups that people have used/recommended - search the forums. Use the subwoofer (or LFE) out on your AVR and run an RCA cable to the sub input.
post #29 of 32
I can't tell how large your equipment closet is but could it be large enough to house a sub? You could just cut a hole in the sheetrock, and then build a frame for the outside wall's hole, wrap it in speaker cloth and place it over the hole to hide the sub. Some sub's can handle that kind of placement and some can't. You'd have to do your research. Now for the caveat, if you have a plaster and lathe wall your talking about a whole different kind of mess.
post #30 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpjohnst View Post

Couple follow-up questions:

2) To fit the Rythmik F12 in that space (or any sub that size), it would need to be pushed up against the corner round molding on the wall. That would put the cabinet about 1-1.5" from the wall with the two opposite corners more or less touching the couch and chair. How badly will that hurt the sound? Also, what kind of impact will it be? I can handle impacts to volume and maybe even some minor loss of fidelity, but if that will make it boomy or bloated it probably won't work for me.

3) Any recommendations (or links discussing the pros/cons) as to how I should hook this up to work with both music and movies? My AVR has an LFE output, but I can also access wiring through the floor to put this in line with my mains if that is the preferred method.

Thanks again for all the help!

2 - This is something you should try with your current sub... (i think it will change based on xover phase setting on where is the best spot for the sub). If you are limited to just one spot for the sub placement. I am not 100% if you will get the optimal sound out of the sub and if you will be sitting in a null spot... You should use the crawl method with your current sub to get the best location or even see if where you want to put the sub will work or not.

The main concern for the sub is if you are sitting in a null point or not... direction of the sub and it "touching" other items is not of no consequence as the sub-frequencies are not directional.

3 - I am using my lfe out and using a y adapter to connect to the sub's l/r. I personally don't want to use the high level speaker cables as the bass management in the arcam will redirect bass to the sub... i would recommend setting the speakers to Small and pick a xover that works for you, depending on your main speakers.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › Visually discreet sub recommendation and placement...