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Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 7

post #181 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by airliner View Post

I'm in love with this sub, I just set an order for 4 to realize a custom install in two enclosure, each containing two complete box, am I doing it wrong?

Do you mean you are building two boxes, but each box is basically a combination of two enclosures side-by-side? Keeping everything seperate but "doubling" your footprint
post #182 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by airliner View Post

I'm in love with this sub, I just set an order for 4 to realize a custom install in two enclosure, each containing two complete box, am I doing it wrong?

Single-driver enclosures are an easier build, no bracing required.

If your heart is set on dual-driver enclosures, double the width of the internal panels, and add another 1/2 inch if you use bracing (and you will need to).
post #183 of 814
That will work Mike? Just doubling it and adding the 2nd driver? It makes sense to me that it would i have just read that it wouldn't work with tapped horns. Obviously you know a whole lot more then i do here so i am not doubting you just clarifying. So will your response change at all if you double the width and add the 2nd driver?
post #184 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94hondaprelude View Post

That will work Mike? Just doubling it and adding the 2nd driver? It makes sense to me that it would i have just read that it wouldn't work with tapped horns. Obviously you know a whole lot more then i do here so i am not doubting you just clarifying. So will your response change at all if you double the width and add the 2nd driver?

Couldn't you just use the left side panel on one as the right side panel of the 2nd unit? Basically you'd only need 3 side panels instead of 4 with the middle panel being shared by both units.
post #185 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Couldn't you just use the left side panel on one as the right side panel of the 2nd unit? Basically you'd only need 3 side panels instead of 4 with the middle panel being shared by both units.

Sure, you could do it that way too.

How are you gonna fasten the second horn flare to the middle divider though?

Bracing a double-width build might be easier and stronger.
post #186 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94hondaprelude View Post

That will work Mike? Just doubling it and adding the 2nd driver? It makes sense to me that it would i have just read that it wouldn't work with tapped horns. Obviously you know a whole lot more then i do here so i am not doubting you just clarifying. So will your response change at all if you double the width and add the 2nd driver?

It should work just fine, you just have to understand what you're changing and what you're holding constant. Double the drivers = double the area. If we keep the layout of the horn the same, we have to change the width of the interior boards. If the board width is the only thing that changes, simply double it, then add another 1/2 inch for a brace.

Bracing is a very good idea with a 14.5" wide panel of 1/2 " material. Interior panels would be 15", exterior would be 16".
post #187 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

If your heart is set on dual-driver enclosures, double the width of the internal panels, and add another 1/2 inch if you use bracing (and you will need to).

You can do this, but it increases the flare factor (T) since it winds up with a considerably larger mouth and net Vb, so not as well damped as it could be.

For example, I did an EX-Anarchy 16 Hz DTS concept with a 0.588 T = 262.97 cm^2 S4/72.232 L and the dual with its 2x S1 throat = 365.42 cm^2 S4/111.095 L whereas doubling the single's width bumps them up to 525.94 cm^2/144.482 L and T = 0.588*SQRT(2) = 0.8315.

GM
post #188 of 814
So building 2 and mounting them together may be the best way to get a dual driver single enclosure build without redesigning? It would be easier you to build this way and only a 1/2" thicker overall anyways.
Really having 4 of these spread out throughout my room is more beneficial anyways IMO and if needed 2 can be set side by side in the end anyways.
Build 4 and see where they need to be placed to give best output/response. If one or 2 are not needed use them somewhere else
post #189 of 814
For a HIFI/HT app it's one way to do it. Ideally though, assuming they won't be acoustically too far apart at the XO point, you would design a ~maximally flat multiple driver horn, then slice it up into smaller one or two driver horns. In-room they should all sum together fairly well, making for an overall better performing sub system, at least in a sim.

GM
post #190 of 814
Actually my idea was to realize a flat box 60" wide, with two enclosure inside, the horn mouths could be coupled at the center, or at the sides. I did a schtchup design but I don't know how to link it. Marco
post #191 of 814
What advantage is there to having two separate horns inside a common box? The DSL DTS series layout seems the best way overall to accomplish what you want since it takes advantage of the dual driver's loading throughout the horn instead of just at the mouth.

GM
post #192 of 814
Near as I can tell, the only issues with two drivers oriented along the horn (a la SPUD and DTS) as opposed to across the horn (double-width) seem to be model-related (in other words, the impulse response irregularities don't seem to translate into real-world issues with the perceived sound or performance). I have built multi-driver cabinets both ways. When properly damped, they sound (and measure) fine.

Doing a dual-driver Anarchy tapped horn properly would be a completely different model and fold. I'm not ruling it out, but don't hold your breath waiting for me to finish another fold any time soon. The braced, double width option I posted above is a compromise, for sure, but the same could be said for all sub designs.
post #193 of 814
Correct, the horn only 'feels' them as a homogeneous oblong air mass lump until its BW between the two exceed ~1/3 WL of their acoustic centers, so are high enough in BW that at most, a minor amount of damping will quell them.

Correct, as indicated by my example. I doubt it's worth the effort for a HIFI/HT app, what with all the docs already done for the single driver design, so was basically just providing another 'piece' of a TH's design 'puzzle' for those few folks wanting to scratch design/build their own multiple driver TH.

GM
post #194 of 814
The final idea was to realize a fancy furniture piece for a living room, to dissimulate the presence of a subwoofer, my plan is to put the two double enclosure lying on the floor just under the Tv, with 4 mouth firing to the center of the room.
The look would be a 3m long white color very low table.
post #195 of 814
airliner, i think that may work well.... If you use them like that you may find that if they are about a foot away from that wall having the "mouth" firing into the wall to work better. The other thing is i wrapped mine in a fabric and this way the mouth is covered so if firing into the room you could hide the mouth this way.
Just a thought.
post #196 of 814
which kind of fabric? do you think the one used for speaker grill could be fine?Marco.
post #197 of 814
I used Burlap, it was left over from my DIY acoustic panels i made a while back. Only had enough for three but the 4th is in the back corner so it's still bare wood still for now. Speaker grill fabric would work but you may want to spray pain the box first lightly sometimes grill fabric is kinda "see through". Also i only covered the sides visible when in place in the room to make things easier...... You could use carpet like they do alot in car audio as well. If you wanted to use vinyl or something that doesn't breath paint inside the mouth to match and leave the mouth open.
post #198 of 814
actually the exterior is going to be satinwithe, and the visible part of the mouth as well, this is wy I was thinking of withe speaker cloth.
At the moment I am in Boston, I got the drivers on my room bed.they look so.... solid. Good job DIY!
post #199 of 814
They are one bad little driver hey!
post #200 of 814
Hoping to start my build before the weekend so I can have it done this weekend. Is break-in reccomended on this driver? Best way to go about it? I got one of the Hidley amps to go along with it. If anyone has an opinion I am all ears.
post #201 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by oblio9 View Post

Is break-in reccomended on this driver?

Break in doesn't make any real difference on any driver.
post #202 of 814
Can't hurt. I typically don't bother when I am following a known plan.

When I am doing something new, I try to break things in then measure to make sure I am measuring real parameters, not something that may change with a bit of use. I agree that it does not make a big difference, but I want to make sure I get the best information I can, as well as potentially identify a bum driver before the build is done.

I usually use a sine wave at or very near driver resonance (which is an impedance maxima - easiest on the amp) and run the driver at an excursion level that does not make bad noises or smells for a minimum of a few hours, I usually let it go overnight. Holding the driver is always an adventure. I have clamped them to the workbench, mounted them in a baffle, clamped them in my workmate, clamped them in my testing jig.....every driver is different.
post #203 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Holding the driver is always an adventure. I have clamped them to the workbench, mounted them in a baffle, clamped them in my workmate, clamped them in my testing jig.....every driver is different.

Hang them on some wire, face to face, spaced apart so that the cones/surrounds cannot touch at full excursion using some scrap wood blocks and cable ties. Wire them so both cones are moving towards/away from each other at the same time. Very little sound output and movement.

I used to do this with all drivers but saw little/no difference between new out of box, and 'broken in' once cooled to room temp, so I don't bother any more.
post #204 of 814
looking for amp suggestion: 4 Foster amps or a Dayton 240w with boost?
post #205 of 814
Don't use any boost.

Jack's amps are a good fit when adjusted, and have a steeper highpass slope.
post #206 of 814
Mike have you bought amps from jack? I am getting qoutes from UPS for 35 bucks to ship 2 amps.... 70 to ship all 3. I emailed Jack but not sure he will reply. Anyways this seems steep to me i was wondering what you and other people have paid for the shipping on a foster amp?
post #207 of 814
UPS ground for me was about $12. I am in Denver.
post #208 of 814
For just one? I was figuring 10 bucks each roughly so i was shocked to see it was 35 for 2of them, thats alot when each amp is only 35 bucks.
post #209 of 814
If you can have it shipped to a business address, that can help.
Residential address shipping is a little higher, but of course, Mr. Hidley has no control over UPS rates. That goes without saying.
post #210 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94hondaprelude View Post

Mike have you bought amps from jack? I am getting qoutes from UPS for 35 bucks to ship 2 amps.... 70 to ship all 3. I emailed Jack but not sure he will reply. Anyways this seems steep to me i was wondering what you and other people have paid for the shipping on a foster amp?

I had four shipped to me for $35 total.

I'm in the Seattle area, Jack's in the Bay area, so it was a short west-coast trip.
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